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Old Aug 20, 2008, 01:07 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
5,613 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cainebean
Just a question on parts. On the first thread there is a link to the individual build PDF's. There is also one called updated front mount.

While I'm waiting on my kit to arrive I figured I could go ahead and cut out the wood pieces. So I'm confused on which PDF's I need. I was going to print out the 1-8 ply parts, 1-16 ply parts, 1-32 ply parts, 1-32 ply parts_2. But then I saw the Updated front mount pdf. Can I get some help on what I need to print.
Hi Caine, the updated front mount is for the tractor version. All it really involves is the former now extends to the top of the fuse side cheeks. This allows the motor to be mounted inline with the center of the tabs that capture the former itself. The previous former is short and is buried in the foam as the design was just a pusher from the begining. FWIW I do recommend the tractor version. Much better vertical


Mike
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 09:41 PM
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tychoc's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Feb 2006
1,153 Posts
I need some input here. So far I haven't been able to take any good photos from the Solution because of excessive vibrations. I have never had this problem before, on either a Slow Stick or a MagPieAP using the same camera (Canon A570). I have tried three different propellers, all of them balanced as best as I can on a GP magnetic balancer. I just tried foam between the camera and the pod as well as a piece between the engine mounting bracket and the plywood, but still it vibrates way too much. The only pictures or video that looks normal is if I turn the motor completely off mid air.

I'm pretty sure that my propellers are balance, and one of them came off my MagPie AP which didn't have any signs of vibration.

My setup is:

TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunn
HXT036A hexTronik PRO 36A BESC
12x6 E propeller
Canon PowerShot A570

Any thoughts on what to look for next?
Could this be a bad motor that has a bent shaft or something?

thanks,

-tychoc
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 10:04 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2007
559 Posts
Is the motor's shaft rubbing against the firewall? This might generate some unwanted vibes.

Rob D.
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 10:05 PM
Begin with end in mind...
power's Avatar
Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
5,613 Posts
I have been seeing numerous reports of vibration issues using the A570 IMO most of the problem stems from the motors that are being used. If they have heavy cogging this will transfer. If there is unwanted runout this will transfer as well. One thing that I will mention is I have my camera mounted tight. You will actually get more vibes trying to isolate it with other materials.

I find it kind of ironic that the other complaints were with the same motor you are using. Were you using the same motor on the SS and the MP??


Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by tychoc
I need some input here. So far I haven't been able to take any good photos from the Solution because of excessive vibrations. I have never had this problem before, on either a Slow Stick or a MagPieAP using the same camera (Canon A570). I have tried three different propellers, all of them balanced as best as I can on a GP magnetic balancer. I just tried foam between the camera and the pod as well as a piece between the engine mounting bracket and the plywood, but still it vibrates way too much. The only pictures or video that looks normal is if I turn the motor completely off mid air.

I'm pretty sure that my propellers are balance, and one of them came off my MagPie AP which didn't have any signs of vibration.

My setup is:

TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunn
HXT036A hexTronik PRO 36A BESC
12x6 E propeller
Canon PowerShot A570

Any thoughts on what to look for next?
Could this be a bad motor that has a bent shaft or something?

thanks,

-tychoc
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 10:16 PM
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Canadian Geek's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jan 2007
4,533 Posts
tychoc,

I think you are looking in the right area if you turn off the motor and the vibration goes away. I would start by rebalancing my props as this is the easiest (and cheapest). Next I would take apart the motor and check the shaft. I do this with a dial gauge but you may not have access to one. The easiest is just rolling the shaft across something. Either of these should find the problem.

Later,
Jeff
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 10:50 PM
Registered User
tychoc's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Feb 2006
1,153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by power
I have been seeing numerous reports of vibration issues using the A570 IMO most of the problem stems from the motors that are being used. If they have heavy cogging this will transfer. If there is unwanted runout this will transfer as well. One thing that I will mention is I have my camera mounted tight. You will actually get more vibes trying to isolate it with other materials.

I find it kind of ironic that the other complaints were with the same motor you are using. Were you using the same motor on the SS and the MP??


Mike
My first attempt was with the camera mounted tight, and now with foam between. Both produces about the same amount of vibration in the camera.

No, this is the only plane I've used this motor. It's brand new, but clearly has some issues.


nocontrol1
Good point. I'll make sure to check that the shaft is not rubbing against the firewall.

zirt57
I'll check the shaft next.

thanks,

tychoc
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Old Aug 20, 2008, 11:15 PM
Ozzie Express wiggy pilot
SON OF PALEFACE's Avatar
YANKALILLA , SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
Joined Nov 2002
5,234 Posts
just swap motors and props around.. ...
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Old Aug 21, 2008, 01:33 AM
Electronic juggler
Joined Jan 2004
213 Posts
Motor and maiden

tychoc,

My Solution gives excessive vibration even on the ground without a prop (the fuse gives a mighty resonating sound at full bore!), and I have the same motors on my Mikrokopter which has a bad case of shakes too. Balancing the bell of the motor might be difficult but I was thinking of going that route. Just fixing a small accelerometer on the fuse and watching with a scope the output of said sensor would give clear indication whether the vibration is getting better or worse, and then one would just stuff something between the magnets on the bell on two arbitrary but straight angle axis.

All,

Ugh, I had the worst maiden ever yesterday... although the damages were fairly small. I did a range check, found it quite small but continued anyway. It was also getting too dark fast, but what can I say, I was eager to at least do a hop or two.

I had the throws way too large, so on the first (accidental) takeoff the plane climbed to 2-3m and trying to level, I just dorked it straight in. The weight of the camera on the frontmost mounting hole served to cut the mounting plate and crush the jaw, but everything stayed together and the camera was ok.

Next I fumbled with my radio, trying to reduce the throws but instead of moving in the menu I changed the model, causing throttle reversal and full steam. Thank god it's a pusher or me and my friend would have had some serious foot injuries.

Still wouldn't believe that it just wasn't meant to fly yesterday, I tried once more and managed a steady takeoff. Started to go around on the left side, adn that's when the plane went out of range. Lucky me there wasn't too much throttle and there was ever so shallow dive, so it came down and continued doing circles on the ground until one of the wheels fell off and I ran inside the range.

Oh well, the jaw should be easily fixed, then I have to contact Castle Creations about the interference their Thunderbird 36 is giving at 35MHz and then start to balance the motor. I think I'll use a dummy camera weight on the next maiden...

-Jussi
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Old Aug 21, 2008, 11:26 PM
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Picoflyer's Avatar
Spead Eagle, WI (about 2 hours north of Green Bay)
Joined May 2004
786 Posts
I've made a little more progress on my solution build: tail feathers are done now. I tried something a little different for adding support to the tail feathers, instead of the carbon rods I cut slots with a router and inserted thin strips of 1/32 ply on each side just like how the wing is reinforced. I did this because I didn't have any carbon rods for the tail supports and I figured this would work just as well; it seems very lightweight and rigid so I don't see it being a problem. I now realize I probably should have extended the ply strips on the rudder down further so I could slot them into the tail for a little better stability but it is still quite stiff. I have decided that I will cut a solution wing instead of using the one I already have and that is the only real major step left however I am still trying to find some formica for the cutting template. My local Home Depot does have 8"x10" samples, I suppose I chould glue two of these together.
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Old Aug 22, 2008, 04:59 AM
Smoke on , go !
zaguruinzasky's Avatar
Verona - Italy
Joined Jan 2007
2,527 Posts
Guys, Mike, I'm trying to buy all the missing pieces for the short kit build.. but translating in Italian is a bit hard for some parts, with a direct dictionary translation everything sounds too funny to be real... if you can help me a bit please:

Quote:
48" (122cm) 5/32 (4mm) carbon tubes
when you say 5/32 I suppose you mean 0.15625" is it correct? is that inner size or outher site of tube?

Quote:
2x 6-32 (0.8-1.5cm) machine screws
Do you mean 0.6" width and 32" leght?

Quote:
15" (38cm) leght 5/16 (7,9mm) fiberglass tube/arrow shaft
arrow shaft?

Quote:
wing dowel hold downs & upper camera mount tubes
I totally missed this part.. what do you mean?

Quote:
4x craft beads with 5/32 (4mm) hole for wheel retainers
what is a craft beads?

Thanks a lot for your help.
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Old Aug 22, 2008, 07:00 AM
Flying Kiwi
MisterNiceGuy's Avatar
Blue Mountains, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
1,271 Posts
I will try and help you

First isn't Italy using the metric system (sistema metrico) of millimetres , centemetres and metres (Metri, centimetro, Millimetri)?


<48" (122cm) 5/32 (4mm) carbon tubes>

Yes, 5/32 = 0.15625" that is outer size
This is the same as 4mm carbon fibre tube (asta o tubo della fibra del carbonio da 4 millimetri - diametro esterno)



<2x 6-32 (0.8-1.5cm) machine screws>


<Do you mean 0.6" width and 32" leghth?>

NO, 6-32 is a type of screw, in Metric they are called M3.5 and should be .8 to 1.5 centimeters long (Metrico M3.5, .8 - 1.5 centemetro lunghezza)

<15" (38cm) leght 5/16 (7,9mm) fiberglass tube/arrow shaft>

Arrow shaft is used in a bow (simile a balestra e freccia)
Or you can use carbon fibre tube 8mm outside diameter (tubo della fibra del carbonio 8 millimetri fuori del diametro)

<wing dowel hold downs & upper camera mount tubes>

Dowel is a round plug of wood see attached picture


Quote:
4x craft beads with 5/32 (4mm) hole for wheel retainers


what is a craft beads?
See the picture for what beads are

Not sure if that helps. Hopefully someone here will speak Italian and will be able to help more if needed.

MNG
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Old Aug 22, 2008, 03:08 PM
Electronic juggler
Joined Jan 2004
213 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaguruinzasky
<15" (38cm) leght 5/16 (7,9mm) fiberglass tube/arrow shaft>

arrow shaft?

<wing dowel hold downs & upper camera mount tubes>

I totally missed this part.. what do you mean?

<4x craft beads with 5/32 (4mm) hole for wheel retainers>

what is a craft beads?
The 5/16 fibreglass tube: I used a 8mm (outer diameter) carbon tube. Wing hold downs and the upper cam mount tubes are shown in this pic:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1742737

Craft beads are used for wheel stops, shown here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=247
They can be found from most hobby craft shops.

Good luck on your build!

-Jussi
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Old Aug 23, 2008, 03:54 AM
Smoke on , go !
zaguruinzasky's Avatar
Verona - Italy
Joined Jan 2007
2,527 Posts
well thanks a lot guys... !!
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Old Aug 23, 2008, 08:32 PM
Registered User
Picoflyer's Avatar
Spead Eagle, WI (about 2 hours north of Green Bay)
Joined May 2004
786 Posts
I'm getting closer to having a completely built Solution, today I cut some wing cores. After not being able to locate any formica I decided to just take the time to cut some templates from aluminum. As you can see I use oversized foam sheets so I can do the final cuts precisely with an xacto and a straight edge. Still have to cut the dihydral angles in the cores and glue everything together. Besides the wing all thats left is servo installation and finding a foam noodle to cut up for wheels (none at Wal Mart, guess its getting too late in the summer).
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Old Aug 23, 2008, 09:04 PM
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Canadian Geek's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cambridge
Joined Jan 2007
4,533 Posts
PicoFlyer, sometimes simple is best. At least you got your wing cores cut. btw, why is there a propane tank sitting next to something that is designed to get hot? We just had a major propane "accident" here in Toronto that nearly blew up a city block. Sorry, I wouldn't want to see that happen to you.
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