Joined Nov 2006
Esky King2 Owners Lounge 3rd saga
Links to the previous threads
1st page from the 2nd king2 thread:
Here are some tools that would be helpful in maintaining and fixing your King2:
-ball link pliers
-2x 5.5mm thin walled nut drivers (for spindle shaft)
-a nice set of METRIC screwdrivers
-can of silicone spray for lubricating the belt
-Micro size heli pitch gauge
Spare Parts that Should be bought:
NOTE: Buying a Spare barebones kit would be best, but, only one time use for each part and it would probably turn into a 2nd heli. LOL.
• 275mm main blades
• King v2 main shaft(v1 will not work as it doesn’t have the hole for the belt drive pully pin)
• King2 skids(v1’s are obviously different)
• Spindle Shafts a.k.a. feathering shafts
• Bell control arm set
• Tail boom
• Main Gear
Posted upgrades that work for the King2:
MOTORS AND ESC'S:
-HDX300 brushless motor
-Esky 3100kv brushless motor(10-11T pinions)
-Esky 3900kv brushless motor(9-10T pinions)
-Esky 3800kv brushless motor(requires shaving of the frame, 8-9T pinions)
-Just Go Fly 400DH brushless motor(9T)
-Esky 25A brushless ESC with all Esky Motors
-Dynam 25A brushless ESC with all motors
-Castle Creations 25A brushless ESC With all motors
HEADSPEED WITH THE DIFFERENT MOTORS:
You can go to darkhorses headspeed caculator, can just google it and you'll find it.
Hailo came up with these:
The last one is the JGF motor
-Futaba GY401 Gyro
-Futaba GY240 Gyro
-Logictech 2100T Gyro
-Telebee Gyro(along with other variations; align,HDX)
-Esky 0704A HH gyro
-Walkera Gyro with AVCS
- Hitec HS55 for swash
- Hitec HS50 for tail
- Bluebird 306BB for swash
- Futaba 3154 Digital Servo for tail
-6100 receiver(spectrum only)
-basicly anything that goes with your TX
Installation of the Brushless motor upgrade:
1. Take out the out the 4 screws that hold on the lower frame
2. Take off the Main gear
3. Then, take out the original brushed motor.
4. Remove the stock ESC from it’s original place
5. Keep all those parts in your parts box as you might need it for emergency’s
6. Solder on the bullet connectors that go onto the brushless motor(Esky motors come presoldered)
7. Shrink wrap all the metal
8. Solder on the bullet connectors on the ESC of your choice
9. Shrink wrap
10. Now, put on the motor with the included screws. NOTE: There might be different variations to the space apart from each set of holes.
11. Make sure you don’t tighten down the motor just yet
12. After you do that, you slide on the pinion from the bottom and tighten it all the way.(may want to use a drop of loctite for security)
13. Then you put the main gear back onto the main shaft.
14. Now it’s time for you to check the mesh of the main gear and the pinion gear from the motor. (You can just eyeball it till you think it’s fine, or you can use the paper trick. Basicly, that is you just take a piece of paper, stick it in between the pinion and the main gear and you move the pinion so it makes the paper go into the gear so there is only space of the paper. Then you spin the motor slowly and take out the paper.)
15. After you have done that, it is time for the you go program your ESC(follow the instructions your esc came with)
16. After you’ve done that, plug in the motor to the ESC.
17. Now it is time to check if your motor is spinning the right way. On the King 2, the motor should spin counterclockwise when looking at the motor from the top. Then if it’s not, switch two of the wires to the ESC from the motor. I personally use the Dynam ESC so I will have a picture included on what I did. (you might want to take off main blades or the main gear for this)
18. Place the ESC where you want on the heli that would make sense
19. Now, put everything back together and your ready for flight with the brushless motor
Setting up the telebee on the stock radio should be this easy:
Step 1: plug the servo directly into channel 4 on the receiver and center the servo. Then get the control horn as close to 90 degrees as you can. Then install the tail linkage and with the servo centered make sure that the tail blades have no pitch negative or positive.
Step 2: Now set the gyro gain pot so that it's right in the center of its movement and then turn it to the left about 1/4 of a turn. This should put the gyro at about 80-90% gain in rate mode. Unplug the motor from the speed controller and plug the battery in. You can now check and make sure that the gyro is working. In rate mode it should react to jerks of the nose left and right and the rudder stick should also move the tail blades.
That's how you can check to make sure the gyro is working. For a proper setup of the telebee gyro follow these steps. It's much easier to read it there then for me to retype it.
If you don't use the remote gain plug then the transmitter does not matter at all. I would definitally recommend using the pot on the gyro to do the adjustments and just leave it at that until you program a computer radio for the heli.
The telebee gyro has 2 sets of wires coming off it. One with 3 wires that goes into a servo female plug and one with just 1 orange (or yellow don't remember) wire that goes into a female servo plug.
The one that has a single wire going into it is for remote gain control. If you connect that to channel 5 on the receiver and the transmitter knows how to set remote gain on a gyro then the pot on the gyro is disabled and it uses the settings from the transmitter. Since you are using the stock TX ignore that wire until you get a computer radio for the heli and use the pot on the gyro itself for adjustments.
The plug with the 3 wires goes into channel 4 on the receiver.
finless also went into detail on this gyro here:
HDX300 Tail and Gyro setup(46 Megs)
if that link does not work you can find it here:
Stock rotor blade weighs in at 16.6g, and the Plastic one's w/ some 1mm HDXSHIMS weighs in at 23.9g. Would be great for those still learning, but for any sort of aggressive flying, it would probably be a hindrance.
HB KING v2 TIPS:
Channels as per factory set up are:
1. Aileron (port side back servo)
2. Elevator (front servo just behind motor)
4. Rudder (tail servo)-> gyro->receiver
5. Empty (used for HH gyro)
6. Pitch (starboard side back servo) I have no idea why Esky calls it "pitch"
The throttle and trim are set to zero on your Tx.
The antenna is fully extended on your Tx.
The rudder switch is set to 'reverse' on your Tx.
The gyro is plugged in to Channel 4 on the receiver.
http://www.rc711.com/shop/product_i...products_id=190 Flight Sim Cable
All the Switches and knobs on the Stock Esky Transmitter:
-Gyro SW switch is just when you have a heading hold gyro, you can switch it between a HH gyro or a Rate gyro
-Upper left switch is the idle up mode. For doing 3D
-Upper right switch is the trainer switch. It’s for when you are buddy boxing and you are the master.
-Upper left knob, Setting pitch of the main blades just sitting there. If you go lower, you can get more headspeed but less overall positive pitch. If you go higher, you get lower headspeed and more overall pitch.
-upper right knob is the the pitch trim.
MODE 1 V.S. MODE 2
Here is a link to Crash-n-hard's video page:
Link to place locally that has the 5.5mm nut driver:
Link to a guide on how to put together the CNC head
Link to DX7 Setup Video:
Please Add This Link to the Location for the Steel Pinions: http://www.readyheli.com/RevCo_Pinions_s/109.htm
Link to Finless bob's videos:
(telebee zoom gyro setup under HDX300 tail setup)
Link to all Pictures from Thread #1:
Place where parts(upgrade and spare) can be found:
• www.bphobbies.com (for some spare parts that are
compatable with King v1)
Use this code at rcsupersales.net and get a 10% discount on your order! Thanks Kyle
My Fleet as of 2008
Please PM me if you have any corrections or things you want to add to this.
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