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Old Aug 16, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Hi, guys. I finally got my watt meter and have posted the results in this thread. I also picked up a couple Zippy Flightmax 1600mah 11.1volt batteries. It seems like a lot of battery for 116grams as I have already gotten 50 minutes of flight time with 3 launches and 6-8 additional climbs.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1688351
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 06:46 PM
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Canada, BC, Nanaimo
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Question for some of the more experienced glider pilots here. I built my Passer-X, but the wing saddle on the fuse does not perfectly match the shape of the V-shaped cutout on the wing. The result is that the wing, when screwed in place, can 'rock' side to side about 2 mm (around 3/32"). More specifically, since the wing is held firmly in place near the TE, the LE rotates slighly while pivoting at the TE wing bolts. This equates to the wing tips being able to move forwards and backwards more than 1/2". I can think of a few ways of fixing this (none of them are all that appealing!), but I wanted to know how much difference this will make in flight. Am I likely to notice a difference, and if so, what is the plane likely to do as the wing 'rocks' in its saddle? Any ideas on the best way to resolve this? I thought of some sort of locating device at the LE - ie a pin through the fuse into one wing half LE, etc.

Thanks in advance for your ideas!
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Hi, mantraguy.

I have a Specter which is HobbyKing's version of the Passer-X. It came with holes drilled in the wing and wing fairing and I just ended up using a couple pieces of music wire as pins. However, I had them misaligned at first and had to rework it with some hardwood to get it right. I don't really trust tape but I think it would be adequate to just securely tape the wings together at the front if you don't want to drill. I have pictures of mine on the 3rd and 5th page of this thread. Feel free to ask if you want any clarification.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1688351

I also ended up stripping a couple inches of covering from the center section and strengthened it with some Sky-Loft fabric. I would think that it, or just some more tape, would tighten up the fit of the wing saddle.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 08:52 PM
WAA-08 THANK FRANK!
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
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There is very little force (lateral) during normal flight. Most force is vertical. I believe that the tape idea would suffice if done tightly.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 10:51 PM
Never too much detail
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Australia, VIC, Hampton
Joined Jan 2007
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Note there is a Passer sale on at R2hobbies. US$83.95. register to get an extra 10%. And no I am not affiliated with R2Hobbies.

Stuart
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:05 AM
Vertical Unlimited
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Mandurah, Western Australia
Joined Mar 2007
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I never trusted the original method of securing the wings. I secure the leading edge of each wing with a carbon peg.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 04:20 AM
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Hi all,

I have a TURNIGY TR2217/16 at home.
This one : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5690

Some one use this motor ? do you think it's good for the Passer-X ?

greating

Alain
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Hi, lako64.

I don't have that motor myself but, according to the numbers provided by HK, it should have almost identical performance to mine. Vertical climbs with a 10X6" prop and around 10 seconds to get to altitude. I like a fast climb so I would guess it would be ideal.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 05:14 AM
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Hi,

Thank you for your message Peterlngh.

I will still wait if I have any other answer and if not I think I saw mount my TR2217.

Cordialy

Alain
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 03:33 PM
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I think it's hard to go wrong, Alain.

I actually have the HobbyKing clone of the Passer-X and it's an ounce or two heavier than the genuine article. I have a KDA 22-20L and it's a bit overpowered. Depending on how much vertical performance you want; I would think most any motor between 50 and 100 grams that will swing a 9 or 10 inch prop should be fine. My Specter, at 780 grams, is still accelerating at the top of a vertical climb and it's lots of fun but I will probably go to something a little lighter and put the KDA in a 2 or even a 2.5 meter ship if it seems happy with an 11 inch prop.
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Old Nov 05, 2012, 11:55 AM
fly by night
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Joined Sep 2011
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I have enjoyed this thread!

I am about 3/4 the way through my PasserX build now. I want it to be a pure thermal plane, but with a FPV system onboard. To do that I have been paring down components to save room and weight. I am hoping to have minimal components on the outside of the airframe.

Here is how she looks now. The plane is ready to fly, but the FPV system is not yet installed. The camera is placed merely to show where I intend to put it (on an embedded servo for panning). AUW w 1300mah 3S, and w/o the FPV is about 630g, will be 740g completed, which works out to approx 8.8 oz/sf wing loading

components list:
- Sk3 Aerodrive motor 150W http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18155
- HK SS ESC 25A. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...5_30A_ESC.html
- 3x Corona metal gear 9g servos.
- Orange Rx
- FoxtechFPV.com CMOS cam with wide angle lens: http://www.foxtechfpv.com/fh18c-5v-m...tsc-p-494.html
- Racewood 300mW video transmitter on 1280MHz http://www.readymaderc.com/store/ind...oducts_id=1016
- V type antenna
- On Screen Display/GPS telemetry/Autopilot (all in one unit): Cyclops Nova - not using the amps sensor. Comes with variometer of course. http://www.bevrc.com/nova-osd-v11wit...-bug_p279.html

The big downside to the autopilot is that i will not be able to program much for the plane. One channel to ail, one to elevator, no mixing the Vtail for ruddervators. No crow, brake or flaperon settings either. Hope this plane is simple and light enough to fly fine without that. I can still run expo and DR. Crashed and totalled my previous glider a month ago when the FPV goggles power wire decided to break during flight - the AP will give me a chance to recover from any such interruption.

I am a bit worried about the propeller. The one shown is a HK carbon 10x6 with a HK alu spinner. The blades are the correct width, but the bolts are much smaller, leaving a lot of slop - any solution for that? I have a whack of Graupner 9x5 blades (which might be a better match) on hand but no spinner, and I need a spinner with a 3mm shaft. hmmm need to do some watt meter testing now.














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Old Nov 05, 2012, 01:30 PM
fly by night
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just installed the pan servo and camera. It is a metal gear blue arrow - something like 4 or 5 grams servo.





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Old Nov 05, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Mandurah, Western Australia
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Looks brilliant! I like your mounting of the camera on a servo for panning - very simple and effective. Sure looks the goods! I'm looking forward to seeing your flight videos.

The slop in the prop pins can be corrected by larger dia pins (needs the yoke retapped), but I wouldn't worry too much about it. When the motor spools up the blades will be thrown outwards into tension and there won't be much to make them rattle. Give it a try on the ground and stand well clear of the prop arc in case a point load causes a blade to shear.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 02:25 PM
fly by night
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Thanks! I ended up buying slightly larger bolts w/ nylock nuts. Drilled the yolk and prop (alu hubs in the CF prop) out and now it feels precision. Also feels very balanced when I run up the motor.


I tried one of my square CF spars - fits perfect into the servo lead holes, heck I am not even going to glue it in. Runs nearly from one servo to the other one. That was easy. I will likely glue my wing haves together - such a short WS anyways.



Still ruminating over where to hide the video transmitter and GPS antenna. Will probably cut access hatched from below for these and run shielded cat6 or USB cable within the wing. I am a little worried about weaking the wing by cutting this open, however.

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Old Nov 08, 2012, 02:40 PM
fly by night
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installed FPV components as clean as I could. GPS and vTx. Have wired up the FPV system, mostly, and maybe fly it tomorrow.

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