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Old Jul 15, 2012, 07:36 PM
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USA, MI, Rochester
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterlngh View Post
Hi, got-one.

I just drilled a 3/8 inch exit hole in the bottom about mid cord and enlarged it a bit with the dremel. I also added some small scoops made from plastic spoons to the cooling holes. The ESC gets stuck to the canopy with Velcro which gets it away from the battery and adds a little extra friction to the fit of said canopy.
Peter,
I like what I see. Nice job on the cooling ideas.
Thanks,
Dave F
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 08:13 PM
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You're welcome, Dave.

I got in 2 more flights this evening and give a full report here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post22173543

It was my first chance to test the cooling mods and it made a LOT of difference. Now I have to permanently fix the scoops and fair them in since they are currently just tacked with a little CA.

No matter how much your airframe weighs I couldn't recommend any other motor. It doesn't quite have unlimited slow speed vertical with the 9.5X8 prop but it would with bigger blades and a flatter pitch. It will loop all day at about 1/2 power and gets as small as I like it in just a few seconds!
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Virginia Beach, Virginia, United States
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I started my Passer X build and for the life of me I can't remember seeing how to attach the canopy? Maybe I missed it some where between the manual and this thread.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:09 PM
Old Bold Pilot
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USA, MI, Rochester
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pylot2b View Post
I started my Passer X build and for the life of me I can't remember seeing how to attach the canopy? Maybe I missed it some where between the manual and this thread.
Pylot2b,
I'm holding my canopy on with 2 pieces of tape, one as a hinge on one side and the other as a latch.
Dave F
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:26 PM
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
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You got instructions? This one is so easy to build that I wouldn't use them anyway. I like to glue a thin piece of wire to the inside of the . The ends of the wire stick out about 1/4 inch and catch the edges of the canopy hole. Leave one side a little looser than the other, to allow the wire to flex enough so you can slide the canopy far enough to allow the other end to under the lip on the other side.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:43 PM
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Virginia Beach, Virginia, United States
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No I didn't get instructions with my kit. I was able to find the pdf. Funny you should mention the wire trick. I was having this debate at the field today and a friend described the same method. Think he had a DLG that used the same method.

I am probably going to go with that. Very simple. I was curious of any other methods besides taping.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Canopy hold down.

There's another difference with the Specter 1800 from HobbyKing. Here's a pic of my stock canopy. I use a little piece of tape at the back to be sure but it's a very nice, clean, method.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
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Brothers of the Passer X, I have failed you. My maiden flight went not so well. I have not done a power-off test glide of a new plane in 10 years... but I'm happy to say that I did today. The first toss dove toward the ground and banked to the left and ended with a minor ground loop. I bravely set +5 elevator and +8 aileron trim and gave a more manly toss with a little up angle. This time the flight and roll to the left went just long enough to show me the G.D. ailerons were reversed!
Stupid
Stupid
Stupid!

I spent three days mucking around with it in the garage and I did not notice the ailerons were backwards. I am a fool.

I have to admit to myself that I'm getting older (but no wiser!) and I cannot work all night and try to fly in the morning before I sleep, like I used to when I was a young buck.

I need some sleep before I look at the repairs - aaaarrrggghh.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 01:13 PM
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I think we each have an aileron reversal in our destiny, Jim. Mine was a much beloved Super Sportster. I even watched a guy try to take off a full scale Aeronca Champ with reversed aileron cables after recovering his wings. Luckily there was a cross wind so he noticed it as soon as his wheels left the ground and the only damage was a scuffed wing tip. Hope the repairs go quickly and relatively painlessly.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 02:27 PM
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I maidened my Passer X today. Let me start with this though - I flew it with a fixed prop (because my folder got lost in the mail, stolen, or blew away from my porch in a storm - still not sure what happened). I hope the fixed prop is the problem though because this thing would not glide worth a crap. It didn't retain energy well AT ALL. I was up with a buddy who was flying a radian and he had no problem at all staying up in a little bit of lift. It was strange. I am hoping that having a folding prop makes a big difference. CG was at about 70mm. Good news is that with the E Flite Park 450, 10x5, and 3s battery the thing goes vertical. I have ordered an APC folding setup from my LHS and it should be here in a couple days so I am going to give this another shot. Maybe it will be a little heavier and bring the CG forward by a couple millimeters too. I was looking forward to an hour long flight!
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 02:33 PM
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
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A folding prop is about 110% required to enjoy the glider as a glider. In fact, I use the folding prop to help bring my old gliders down without spoilers by running the motor at minimum throttle. It keeps the blades extended without adding positive velocity to the glider. You have now seen how effective that kind of braking action is. Get a folder, make sure your brake is set to stop the motor. You will never doubt it (need for a folding prop) again!
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Don't worry, neddis. A non-folding prop is like a sea anchor on a boat/ship. It makes ALL the difference. Make sure to check your CG with the blade folded back. My Specter (HK version of the Passer-X) doesn't seem very sensitive to CG but 70mm is getting close to the rear limit.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Ohhh, so that is what all the fuss is about!!

Ok, I get it now. I fully understand why people rave about the PASSER-X. My re-maiden was a little better than the first try - to say the least.

First off - My repair skills are slightly less than good (about like my flying ability) and take the following paragraph at face value. Before I go there, though, I want to give a 110% positive recommendation to Wayne at www.alofthobbies.com . He has superb service and it is really nice to have a domestic source for our toys. Thanks Wayne!

I slapped the repairs together yesterday while I was home "sick" from work. The broken ribs were ca'ed and the covering re-shrunk. The motor mount was ca'ed and epoxied and the guts were re-stuffed inside. I ran errands this a.m. and headed to the field with a nervous butterfly in my stomach. The throws were set to minimal and a lot (too much for my taste) expo was programmed. I gathered my wits and launched at about 60%. The control feeling was weird, as I normally use huge throws with no expo, trusting my thumbs to make small movements - but we were up and away. I hit lift within seconds of the toss and I fist thought that I had big problems. No, it was lift and the plane leaped around and around. I jumped out to find smoother air to settle the trim. The next throttle was a WOT climb that lasted right up to the point where the prop exploded....

I did see several large items depart the plane but I remembered to watch the biggest part. Hey - I still had control! Yes, there was something hanging out of the cockpit area by wires and it was swinging back and forth - which made control sketchy. The oscillations soon dampened and I found that I had full control other than motor control. The falling bits had landed near by so I stayed focused on the crippled plane. Remember that thermal that I hit on the first launch? It caught up to me and I found that the crippled, broken PX was going UP - without the canopy, prop and who knows what that thing was hanging by wires... I had to laugh and stayed with the thermal for 10 turns or so, just to prove to myself that I was really seeing what I was seeing.

Better judgement forced it's was into my though process and I began to think about trying to salvage the plane with a half-donkey or better landing. I got the plane down on the other end of the football field and began to gather the parts. Not quite upset about the flight - how could I complain after that kind of performance? Once I get it back together again, I have no doubt the PX will be my go-to plane for ALES.

I was not able to find the motor until I arrived at the plane - the motor and esc were hanging on by two 3.5mm bullet connectors and that was hanging from the open canopy area. The PX is very tolerant of c/g changes...apparently.

Again - it's my fault and I will keep at this one until I get it sorted out. I may buy another one to speed up the process. All in all - the Passer-X is a hell of a plane.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 02:49 PM
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That sounds like a very eventful maiden, Jim. And I think you are right about the CG not being very critical. I've moved mine forward and back about 8mm and, aside from a few clicks of elevator trim, I don't see much difference in flying characteristics. My guess is that part of that is the airfoil and part is the nice long tail. It's a refreshing change from my ASW 28 that goes from a constant dive I can't trim out to uncontrollable proposing with less than 5mm change in CG.

I do wonder about the prop "blowing up". Do you think it could have been damaged by the first maiden attempt? I would suggest checking the motor shaft very carefully to make sure it didn't get bent. That could have shaken things apart.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 05:47 PM
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I finally had someone time my climbs. 9-12 seconds from launch to as high as I can see it well!
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