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Old Apr 30, 2011, 09:12 PM
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Xptical's Avatar
Warner Robins, GA
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Have you considered putting a low-cost gyro on the ailerons? You could use a Y-harness and a single gyro, or two gyros and keep the flaperon/spoileron functionality.

I have used gyros in the past on sport planes; they work quite well. Of course, you would need to watch the plane a bit more carefully; the gyro might hide smaller thermal tells.
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Old May 01, 2011, 12:00 AM
the answer 42 is
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
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this plane flys hand of, you dont need gyros, for somethig so stable

EZ
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Old May 01, 2011, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcaldwel View Post
I think the glider would thermal much better with some dihedral. It is definitely spirally unstable, which makes the work load to circle smoothly considerably higher than it might be. I am contemplating whether it is simpler to put in centre dihedral or to amputate the tips at the inboard end of the ailerons and put in some tip dihedral.

Kevin
The gyro idea was in response to Kevin's comment. With a cheap heading hold gyro, you could keep it off most of the time. Once you start turning in a thermal, you could bang the gyro into HH mode and it would maintain the bank angle.
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Old May 01, 2011, 09:45 AM
the answer 42 is
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
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mmmm, then just buy an automatic pilot and problem solved :P BTW nice theory but every single thermal is different, so you have 99% of chance that after you BAM you planes goes out of the the thermal or stalls, come on is not so difficfult, just a little practice even I can do it LOL

just my to old school cents

EZ
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Old May 01, 2011, 10:08 AM
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The PasserX is spirally unstable, as it must be with no dihedral. It requires opposite aileron when in a bank to try and maintain a bank angle. It would circle so much nicer with some dihedral.

I'd like more thermal feedback from a thermal airplane than it just holding a bank angle electronically. I will add some dihedral to mine. I had quoted Mark Drela's post on tail sizing and spiral stability calculations previously in this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=207

There are already autopilots with thermalling capability much better than holding a set bank angle, but that is not my goal with this airplane. I like thermal soaring, and it the PasserX is quite good at it. A bit of dihedral, and it would be a great thermal glider.

Kevin

Edit: Martin Brungard's Equivalent Dihedral Angle Calculator (EDA) Spreadsheet is available from Charles River:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/eda1.xls
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Old May 01, 2011, 10:37 AM
the answer 42 is
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
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mmm that is weird, mine has dihedral (it has a flat joiner) but it has dihedral, about 3 to 4 degrees I dont remeber.

Anyway what ever floats your boat I like to fly by hand and correct the pattern by eye, I had successfully flown this plane without nay modification or electronic device for many years now, and from my humble experience I can tell you that you need no gyros on it, but if you like to put electronics on it well so be it, is your coice and money and if it makes your plane more enjoyable even better

great flights for you

EZ
Flying without compensation mixes or D/R since 1997
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Old May 01, 2011, 03:29 PM
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Warner Robins, GA
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Again, I'm not advocating the use of a gyro to hold a thermal. I'm just offering suggestions (to Kevin) besides hacking up the wing.

As for flying without mixes, I dunno about that one. I usually configure flaperons on most airframes. I usually set up a LAUNCH/THERMAL/LAND flight mode. I like some reflex and lower rates in LAUNCH. Snap-flap, full rates, and expo in THERMAL. In LAND, I like lower rates, a bit of flap (or spoiler), and expo.

I paid for a good radio, the 11X, so you better believe I'm going to take advantage of any mix it offers.
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Old May 01, 2011, 05:11 PM
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Just mounted my prop. I'm running an 11*6 folder. Nothing special; just some plastic bits I had left over. I ran it up on 2S1P and got 80 watts at 11 amps. That *won't* do. I moved to 3S1P and it bumped up to 200 watts at 18 amps!

The aileron servos are curing in those mounts. I thought about trying for a top-drive, but I'd need to cut the covering from the entire bay to do that.

Once the servos have cured, I'll spice in the extension and she should be ready for maiden.
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Old May 02, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Perth, Australia
Joined Jan 2009
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I have also brought a Passer X from R2Hobbies and I would like to know if it would be a great idea if i install a Typhoon 2w-20 inrunner motor running on 5x5 prop on the glider to make it a hotliner??

Do you guys think it would be strong enough for high speed and if there battery compartment is big enough for 2200mah 3cells battery??

I would value your opinion. Thanks
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Old May 02, 2011, 08:12 PM
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At best, this would be a warmliner. I have seen hotliners do their business. It is a sight to behold. Watching a plane climb out of sight in less than 30 seconds, do a wingover, and then do a 100+ MPH pass a few feet off the deck is amazing.
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Old May 03, 2011, 02:58 AM
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Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingBaby View Post
I have also brought a Passer X from R2Hobbies and I would like to know if it would be a great idea if i install a Typhoon 2w-20 inrunner motor running on 5x5 prop on the glider to make it a hotliner??

Do you guys think it would be strong enough for high speed and if there battery compartment is big enough for 2200mah 3cells battery??

I would value your opinion. Thanks
Waiting for mine to arrive. Planning to drop in a KDA22-20 so I'd like to know if any reinforcement is necessary as well.

Yes, there is space for a 2200mah 3S.
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Old May 03, 2011, 04:27 AM
the answer 42 is
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
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read the beggining of the thread, I installed a CF rod on the wing to make it stronger

EZ
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Old May 03, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwinzea View Post
read the beggining of the thread, I installed a CF rod on the wing to make it stronger

EZ
Edwinzea - so you glued only one end of the extra carbon rod? Or did you glue the rods and wings permanently?
I thought of doing that but it seems there is no way to change the aileron servos if required?

Thanks
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Old May 03, 2011, 02:36 PM
the answer 42 is
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
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I glued an extra CF rod through the chanel fro the aleiron cable, the details are somewhere in the thread, someone already asked that

EZ
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Old May 03, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Warner Robins, GA
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Here is the pic of the tube:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1752660

I'm guessing some 15-minute epoxy?
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