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Old Feb 29, 2008, 10:33 AM
Free Flight rubber flyer
South Carolina
Joined Mar 2005
497 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erich
Unfortunately gotta wait 2 more weeks before doing some flying. Will hopefully have a few more planes by then.
This means you need to build a ministick. They can fly in even the smallest of rooms when trimmed out well. They are challenging to get in the air properly, but man can they fly.

Good weight on your first A-6. My first ones were much heavier. Now I'm building them around 1 g before ballast, but that's because my wing and stab parts are made from some punky 3 lb balsa I bought some time ago for this purpose. I was getting just under 4 minutes last night...just have been up at 5 1/2, but the air was awful last night with some of the strongest downdrafts I've ever seen in that site. For the life of me I can't figure out what was causing it because all the ceiling fans were off.
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Old Feb 29, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Kinda spooky, having a downdraft indoors, but if there's air going down, there should be some going up, just need to get the plane in that air.

Funny you should mention ministicks, placed an order with A2Z for a ministick kit, yesterday. Got carried away on the A6 and used my prop bending jig to get a nice twist in the prop blanks, THEN read, they should be left flat. Will have to play with the prop some more. Anywho, here's some A6 pics.

erich
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Last edited by erich; Feb 29, 2008 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Feb 29, 2008, 05:45 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Well back to EZB #3s, 2nd wing. First half of wing went so well did other half same way. Laid both halves over plan, and spot glued em together. Wasn't looking forward to covering a span this big with one piece of tissue. And I was right, it wasn't easy getting the tissue to lay flat along the whole perimeter. Had to keep going back and reattaching it for quite a while. Wetting it down a little more, on top of the tissue, seemed to help. Glued only half the tissue (lengthwise) at a time. Applied glue to center rib and both end ribs, as this is where the poly joints will be.

When tissue finally dried, cut tips and glued in the 1/2" poly. After both tips were done, added the 1 1/2" center dihedral angle. To make sure no twist was glued in, measured the 1 1/2" and the 1/2" distance from build board to LE AND TE.

You may be wondering why I added the extra center rib. Well.....this is what happened:

Since I planned on using straight posts instead of the offset ones, I had to make left side of wing 1/2" longer. So using my original drawing I drew in ribs 1/2" to one side of center rib. Now... if your quick, and probably even if your not, you can see this will make one side, 1" longer not 1/2", as intended. Me NOT being quick, did NOT see this till wing was built. Wasn't even, till I measured em I realized what I'd done. So...instead of removing a well glued in center rib, I opted to add one, 1/4" on longer side.

Soon as I make some more round posts will be able to find out if this new wing will fly any better then the first one.

erich
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 04:30 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Got the new wing pretty much done. Just need to reglue a few small spots along spar, where tissue came loose. But had to put the whole thing together to see what it looked like, with the new and improved ( I hope ) wing. While attaching wing, I happened to break off tail boom, since this was the 2nd time it broke, decided to make a new one. Reattached new rear motor stick and reglued stab and fin. Glued on tail stick, almost inline with front stick (1/4" offset). To make up for it glued in fin at a slight angle to boom. Still got a little warp in wing, but not as much as first wing. Before reattaching stab, straightened it out some more by heating it up some, then weighing it down for a while. Seemed to work. Soon as the glued area hardens a little more will give it some in house tests.

erich
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 09:41 AM
Peck Polymers
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Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightowl
Tim Goldstein, at A2Z, bought out Peck's when Sandy Peck retired, and also apparently picked up most of what Lew Gitlow was carrying from Indoor Model Supply. Their website is here: http://www.peck-polymers.com/store/
(Scroll down the right side of the page a ways to find their free-flight supplies.)
We didn't just pick up what Lew Gitlow was carrying, we bought his entire operation from him. So we are now Indoor Model Supply in addition to Peck Polymers. We also have our full line of indoor specialty materials that I sold through F1D.biz before acquiring this two well known model supply companies.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightowl
F.A.I. Model supply has some stuff, and of course is the home of Tan rubber (Super Sport, now). But to get smaller than 1/16th anymore, I think you'll have to have a stripper.
Nightowl
With our acquisition of Indoor Model Supply we now offer pre-stripped rubber for indoor from 0.018" through 0.095" for those that have not yet invested in a rubber stripper. We are also planning to introduce a rubber stripper through our A2Z CNC division later this year.

Tim
A2Z Corp
Peck Polymers, Indoor Model Supply, Sting Aero divisions
1530 W Tufts Ave Unit B
Englewood CO 80110

www.Peck-Polymers.com/store

The worlds best flying laser cut peanuts.
Over 250 kits in stock!
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 09:54 AM
Peck Polymers
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Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMatthews
Ambroid if you can find it. Sigment if you can't. Then slip around to a plastics shop that does a lot of plexiglass work and buy a solvent bottle. It comes with a dulled off hypodermic needle for laying on solvent for glueing the acrylic. Squirt some Ambroid or Sigment into the bottle and add 1,5 times as much acetone to the glue. Stir it up and you're ready. You'll also want a syringe to clean out the needle at the end of each session.
Ambroid (tubes and 1 pt cans) as well as Sigment are available in the Peck Polymers online store. We also offer what we refer to as needle dispenser bottles. They are 1/4 or 1/2 oz bottles and then your choice of a 20 ga or 25 ga blunt needle cap. For glue purposes I would suggest the 20 ga and then get a piece of .020" wire. Put the wire through the scabbard needle cover and make it just a little longer than the needle. Bend the wire over the outside of the scabbard. Now every time you recap the needle it automatically cleans it out as the wire passes through it. The 25 ga needle is for applying acetone. Of when building clunker and using CA it is the most economical way to apply CA kicker I have ever seen. No more spraying everything in site to kick one joint.

We also have plasticizer to treat the glue mix as well as the most extensive selection of indoor specialty products and indoor wood on the planet.

Indoor supplies at the Peck-Polymers online store

Indoor wood at Peck-Polymers.com

Indoor rubber at www.Peck-Polymers.com store

Tim
A2Z Corp
Peck Polymers, Indoor Model Supply, Sting Aero divisions
1530 W Tufts Ave Unit B
Englewood CO 80110

www.Peck-Polymers.com/store

The worlds best flying laser cut peanuts.
Over 250 kits in stock!
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 02:04 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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a2zTim

Thanks for posting. You've got a great store there, makes me want to get at least, 1 of everything. I do have 1 question however. Re...your avatar. What the....is that over your mouth? Are you in line for a trip to the international space station?

Again, nice store and web sight.

erich
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 06:24 PM
slow but inefficient
Ron Williams's Avatar
Riverhead NY USA
Joined Dec 2000
3,097 Posts
This has been a lot of fun to read. I'll have to try this indoor stuff sometime.
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Old Mar 02, 2008, 07:48 PM
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erich's Avatar
Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Ron Williams,

If you do, your welcome to borrow a great book, I got. It just may get you started in the right direction, It's been like a bible to me.

Thanks.

erich
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Old Mar 03, 2008, 11:02 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Finally got a chance to fly ezb #3 with the new wing. Using about 1/16" size rubber wound on 60 or so turns. Launched it with a very slight forward motion. It flew making a shallow left turn, flying into kitchen area, and landing on the sink. I shoulda put floats on it, cause it landed in the middle of a large pot of soaking water. Got lucky , the only thing that got wet was the tip on one prop blade.

Anyone ever try to take a picture of an indoor model flying in a small apartment with a cheap digital camera, and no help? Was sure this would be a disaster. To my amazement, I not only got a photo, but managed NOT to break the plane. Got 2 good shots and a few of, semi-controlled crashes (not shown). After snapping 5 airborne shots, decided to quit while I still had a flyable plane. Don't know how to explain it, but half of my build shots end up fuzzy looking (out of focus I guess), yet every shot I took of the moving plane came out clear.

erich
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Old Mar 03, 2008, 06:09 PM
Peck Polymers
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Joined Jan 2007
96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erich
a2zTim

Thanks for posting. You've got a great store there, makes me want to get at least, 1 of everything. I do have 1 question however. Re...your avatar. What the....is that over your mouth? Are you in line for a trip to the international space station?

Again, nice store and web sight.

erich
It is a dust mask with an exhaust valve. That photo is me when I am cutting indoor wood. I am also wearing ear protectors that have an orange under the chin band. Even though I use a dust collector system the saw dust is so fine it choked you if you do not wear a mask.

You can see photos of the cut wood and cutting rig on my www.f1d.biz site. Just select Click here to learn more about Tru Weight Indoor Balsa and then Pictures on the next screen.

Tim
A2Z Corp
Peck Polymers, Indoor Model Supply, Sting Aero divisions
1530 W Tufts Ave Unit B
Englewood CO 80110

www.Peck-Polymers.com/store

The worlds best flying laser cut peanuts.
Over 250 kits in stock!
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Old Mar 04, 2008, 06:33 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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a2zTim

Read about what it takes to make balsa into indoor sheets. A lot more to it then I had ever imagined. Can't be much fun having to wear that mask. Am sure most builders, really appreciate the work you do to supply them with quality wood, I know I do. Hope to build quite a few more planes, so...please, keep that mask on a little longer.

Thanks

erich
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Old Mar 05, 2008, 02:47 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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This new ezb does seem to fly better, at least it turns in the right direction. Still have some warps in wing, which am not real happy about. Have tried to get them out by slowly bending wing. Been able to straighten wing out somewhat, but not totally. Am coming to the conclusion, it's either me, or the covering I'm using. When I built the first and much heavier ezb, I was able to get the wing totally warp free. Am thinking (always a bad sign) the use of the heavier wood, resisted the warping effect of the heavy tissue, and the water based glue. Now that I'm using much lighter wood, the covering is winning.

Have ordered some mylar and condenser paper. While I'm waiting for them, may try some clear food wrap. I got 3 kinds all of which are heavy, but am going to try the lightest one. Will use 3M #77 spray adhesive, which should also make it a lot easier to glue on the covering. Instead of messing up, any more wings, have made a "test stab" to do some covering experiments on.

erich
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Old Mar 05, 2008, 10:31 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
Princeton, In
Joined Jul 2007
775 Posts
I've been reading the thread for a while and getting ready to give this a try. I ordered the book "Building and Flying indoor model airplanes" and will read that to get some more info. Nobody in my club builds ff so maybe I can convience someone to start. Thanks for all your posts, pictures and sharing your experiences. I'll keep you posted when I do start building.

Darvin
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Old Mar 05, 2008, 01:34 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Darvin

As we old timer say....cool. It's great book.

erich
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