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Old Jul 30, 2008, 06:54 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
Joined Feb 2004
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Yea, I seem to always have the same trouble, of getting the wing posts tight enough in the tubes. Have used a ambroid, and a glue stick which helps. You probably already know this.... found you can change the wings twist, a little, just by overtwisting by hand and holding it there for awhile. Just gotta be very gentle and NOT over do it. I usually do this at the flying site.

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Old Aug 03, 2008, 06:38 AM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Cos-bee

Time to start some testing. Starting with motor stick.

Had gotten an IMS balsa motor stick pack from A2Z awhile back. Am going to use some of the pieces in this wood pack to try out the stiffness testers. Had about 6 pieces of 9" x 1/8" thick to choose from. Took the 3 lightest pieces and used them for the test. All 6 of these balsa sticks seemed pretty light, but 3 of them were about 1/2 the weight of the others. All 3 pieces passed the bending tests. Then came the killer....I weighed them...all were over .3 grams. The target weight for this piece is .185 gr. Well the article does call for tapering them somewhat. So went about making each one to the exact dimensions called for. Even tapered the width from 1/8" to about 3/32" towards front and rear. Was able to get the lightest stick down to .2 gr. To even get to this I had to take the dimensions to a little less then called for. All 3 still passed the stiffness tests, the side bending test just barely though. Will most likely use the lightest one of these for my first attempt at a Cos_Ezb. I know it's cheating a little bit. But the wood in this pack actually did cost less then a 1/8" sheet of balsa from the local hobby shop. Yea......it's a rationalization, but one I'm willing to live with (for now anyway).


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Old Sep 01, 2008, 08:28 PM
slow but inefficient
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Riverhead NY USA
Joined Dec 2000
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erich -

Where are you?
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Old Sep 03, 2008, 10:18 PM
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Holden , Massachusettes
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Hello Ron

Sorry for not posting more ...right now. Have finally gotten a job and am pretty much working a lot of hours right now. Have done some work on the Lanzo but not much more on the EZB. Will post again soon. Got to get used to working for money and on this at the same time. Have been out of work for so long have almost forgotten how to do both. Weekends have been devoted to getting back in shape, hiking, biking, and some sailing.

Thanks for the continued interest.

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Old Sep 03, 2008, 11:01 PM
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Gold Coast Australia.
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I wondered about you too. The Lanzo thread you kept going almost every day.
Good luck with your job, and do what you can on the builds as time permits.
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Old Sep 04, 2008, 07:19 AM
slow but inefficient
Ron Williams's Avatar
Riverhead NY USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Glad to hear you're O.K. You have my sympathies on the new job.
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Old Sep 29, 2008, 08:52 AM
more balsa please!
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Princeton, In
Joined Jul 2007
793 Posts
I just finished up another mini sticks last night. Seems to fly much better than the first. I'm going to have to take the tail boom off an reduce the amount of turn. Right now it will fly in about a 5ft circle. Once I get to take it to a gym I'll want a larger radius. Also I think that will help it's preformance.

Erich, been getting to do any building lately? We miss your posts and updates.

Darvin
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Old Oct 15, 2008, 09:30 PM
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Prop spar question

Greetings all. This thread is a truly great resource for the indoor flyer. There have been a ton of great tips and tricks, and not to mention some really nice planes, shown on here.

I am just getting started in the duration flying, and am having serious problems with my props. The blades are turning out really nice, but I cannot for the life of me get a decent prop spar built. Or I get a decent spar, but cannot get it attached to the blade and maintain proper pitch. Anyone have any suggestions or tips that they could share with an indoor newbie with regards to building prop spars and mounting blades to said spar?

Thanks in advance,
Chris G
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Old Oct 15, 2008, 11:04 PM
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Bangkok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglynn
Greetings all. This thread is a truly great resource for the indoor flyer. There have been a ton of great tips and tricks, and not to mention some really nice planes, shown on here.

I am just getting started in the duration flying, and am having serious problems with my props. The blades are turning out really nice, but I cannot for the life of me get a decent prop spar built. Or I get a decent spar, but cannot get it attached to the blade and maintain proper pitch. Anyone have any suggestions or tips that they could share with an indoor newbie with regards to building prop spars and mounting blades to said spar?

Thanks in advance,
Chris G
It's been some time since my last EZB, but the spars I made where square in cross-section extending all the way to the tip of the propeller, so it's very easy to glue the blades on the flat faces of the spar and keep them at a 45 degree angle. I also used glue on three points, the base, the middle and the tip of the blade.
But the most important thing is to use the right balsa for the spar, since you're just starting don't worry too much about weight and use medium weight, springy balsa for the spar.
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Old Oct 15, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglynn
Greetings all. This thread is a truly great resource for the indoor flyer. There have been a ton of great tips and tricks, and not to mention some really nice planes, shown on here.

I am just getting started in the duration flying, and am having serious problems with my props. The blades are turning out really nice, but I cannot for the life of me get a decent prop spar built. Or I get a decent spar, but cannot get it attached to the blade and maintain proper pitch. Anyone have any suggestions or tips that they could share with an indoor newbie with regards to building prop spars and mounting blades to said spar?

Thanks in advance,
Chris G
Hi there Chris! I started indoor duration FF about 2-3 years back, and have built a 3 ministicks, 3 LPPs, an over weight EZB and a half completed subgram EZB.

I did my props by simply cutting 2 halfs of a spar and tapering them according to plan & put them aside for later.

I then make a hub using tissues rolled on a brass tube with diameter similar to the thicker ends of the half spars. I later would insert and glue in place a small rounded spar to the inner centre of the tissue hub where a hole would be drilled to insert the prop wire and hook.

The earlier 2 halfs spars are then glued on the preformed 2 prop blades. I would then insert these into the open ends of the tissue hub (with the prop wire attached). Do not glue them yet. I can then freely turn the 2 halfs which is friction fit to set the pitch with the help of a pitch gauge/jig. Once the angle is set, then I hit the part where the open ends of the tissue hub and spars with Duco/Ambroid glue so that the pitch can be readjusted if needed by rubbing the glued parts with Acetone.

Hope that helps. Else, you can also google "Indoor Duration", "Indoor News" and other indoor FF websites for further resources.

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Old Oct 16, 2008, 09:13 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
Princeton, In
Joined Jul 2007
793 Posts
hklam,

Great explanation, lots of detail. I've only used a one-piece spar, but will try your idea. Seems much better to be able to adjust the angle if you ever need to. Thanks for sharing.

Darvin
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 01:18 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about using a tissue tube for a hub, but wasn't sure if it would be strong enough. Now I know.

Also, what size prop spars are people using? I have seen plans where the spars taper from about 1/16" to 1/32" and other sources have said use a square 1/16" spar, or even a 1/8" spar. I would think 1/8" would be a bit overkill, so I would think a 1/16 would be decent. Just trying to see what works for other people here to slightly decrease the learning curve.

Thanks much
Chris G
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcloin
hklam,

Great explanation, lots of detail. I've only used a one-piece spar, but will try your idea. Seems much better to be able to adjust the angle if you ever need to. Thanks for sharing.

Darvin
No worries dcloin. It is something I picked up from the many resources available out there. Give it a try! Its easy and the best thing is you can adjust the pitch of the prop for different sites (high or low ceilings).

hklam
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Last edited by hklam; Oct 16, 2008 at 11:23 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cglynn
Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about using a tissue tube for a hub, but wasn't sure if it would be strong enough. Now I know.

Also, what size prop spars are people using? I have seen plans where the spars taper from about 1/16" to 1/32" and other sources have said use a square 1/16" spar, or even a 1/8" spar. I would think 1/8" would be a bit overkill, so I would think a 1/16 would be decent. Just trying to see what works for other people here to slightly decrease the learning curve.

Thanks much
Chris G
Chris G,

You should follow the sizes as per the plans. Just used slightly stiffer grain for the spars. It may look fragile, but you'd be very surprise how sturdy it is later.

In any case, your indoor model would be ultra light and will not cause any damage should it hit any object, ceiling or walls. I have been building my prop spar according to plans, and my models have bumped, scraped ceilings (continuously due to my low ceiling and small hall where I normally fly) and crashed into walls, without breaking any spars to date. Instead breakage were from extremely clumsy human handling. Of course you'd need a winder to wind the rubber separately from the model using a stooge instead of hand winding the prop with the rubber on.

Hope that helps.

hklam
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Old Oct 17, 2008, 02:15 AM
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Thanks a lot. That does really help. I think I am going to try the tissue tube idea, with some 1/16" stock tapered to 1/32" once it's on the blade.
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