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Old Feb 14, 2008, 10:00 PM
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Dumas had one or two cruisers in their range that were 1:20, years ago... the Berkeley C*C (42' Constellation) was also close to 1:20 as Charlie points out... The current Dumas C*C Express Cruiser is 1:12...
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Old Feb 15, 2008, 06:20 AM
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Well said Charlie. Interchangability with the cabin cruisers was exactly what I was thinking too. There are probably at least 4 fittings sets that would be appropriate for his model. I'll be checking the scale on my C.C. Corvette today to see how that works out. Pete
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Old Feb 15, 2008, 07:02 AM
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Go to "vintage sterling models". It's a site for Sterling builders and collectors. Lots of info there and a blog to chat with other Sterling gentlemen who may have what you are looking for. Latest auction prices for ALL 170 Sterling models too. Pete
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Old Feb 15, 2008, 06:24 PM
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Sorry, I bow to you old guys' superior knowledge. Im just kidding about the old guys part.
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Old Feb 15, 2008, 08:54 PM
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Pete, if you're talking about Sterling's kit of the C-C 42' Corvette, I think you'll find that it scales out at about 1: 10.5.
The original cruiser was nominally 42 feet long; 42 feet times 12 inches per foot comes to a prototype length of some 504 inches. Divide the model length - 48 inches - into 504 inches, and you get a scale of 1: 10.5. At least, that's the way my calculizer sees it.
That might be a rather difficult scale to find human crew members in, but the dollhouse scale of 1:12 is not that far removed from 1: 10.5. If you could use slightly small figures, 1:12 would do.
The correct scale metal fittings are another story; the fittings are larger than most other model boat pieces and some of them are a bit heavy. I have only a partial set of fittings for my Corvette, but I'd rather have some instead of none.
Sometimes on eBay, partial sets of fittings for model boats are offered. These partial sets can often be purchased more reasonably than whole sets, and can be a good start in assembling a somewhat complete set over time, with luck and timely bidding.
Pete, when you begin work on your Corvette, we'd sure like to look over your shoulder via photos if you can manage it. I've enjoyed and learned from your pictures of your 63' C-C Motor Yacht. Nice work there.
Bill (Another semi-old guy)
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Old Feb 15, 2008, 10:58 PM
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Here are some pics of it now. It has never been finished, and, as you can see, the front needs to be formed. I've stripped the cabin sides back down to mahogany as it should be, but I need advising on the whole color scheme.

I have the original set of plans and even the original box. Someone started and left it.



Is there a "factory color" scheme for these? I know the hull should be white, but should it be dark blue at the water line? And what about the cabin roof? What about the decking on the bridge floor? I was debating going with a green "astro-turf" in a fine material; would that be obscene?

Next, once I strip the paint off the other areas as needed, what do I do about the gaps in the bow? What sort of filler do you suggest? Should I then sand as best as possible and skim coat with fiberglass resin (no cloth)? I'm planning a trip to the local hobby store this weekend, so I need to gather a shopping list.
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Old Feb 16, 2008, 05:02 AM
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Oh boy. This is great. She's been around awhile and shows it too. Looks to be good construction except for the bow planking and that can give anyone a fit.
I think you should cut some balsa slivers and fill the holes in good and tight. Use TiteBond III waterproof carpenters glue or epoxy for glue. The original hull planking should have been balsa also so it will match the density of the existing wood. Fill all the holes with real wood first,then sand it to form as close as you can without taking away any more wood than you have to. Then fill in any low spots with bondo or some strong filler like plastic wood and sand that to shape.
Try to take as much of the old paint off as you can without digging into the wood. You'll get a better final paint job that way.
Mask off the deck wood and then do primer in several coats with lot's of sanding between coats. This will cover any remaing old paint and build a good sublayer of paint for the final coat. What your after here is to cover any old paint and filler spots so they won't show through the final paint. This takes time so don't be in a rush. What you do with the primer will determine the end results so TAKE YOUR TIME with it.
The last step of course is the final coats of white on the hull with sanding between each coat. Remember to NOT put the paint on too thick so it won't run and will dry faster. If I remember right I had to put 6 coats of primer and 7 coats of paint on my 63' motor yacht to get a good smooth job. That paid off during a recent refurbishing of the boat as the hull paint came back up nice and shiny with rubbing compound and some auto wax. Saved me from having to repaint the whole thing.
So get to work. You have a super example of the old Sterling boats and it should turn out to be a stunner. Don't hesitate to ask any questions and by all means post lots of pictures so we can see how your doing. Pete
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Old Feb 16, 2008, 12:30 PM
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OH MY GOD!! What luck! I just visited a smalltown hobby store in my area to pick up resin and just mentioned what I was using it on. The son suggested contacting Dumas for fittings, while his father (in his 70's) went into the junk boxes and found a near complete fittings kit (B-7F) for my exact model!!!

All it seems to be missing right now is the steering wheel, life preservers and not sure what else. The lights, prop, cleats, throttle handles, antennae, etc. are there!!!

Now, how to mold them for recasting....
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Old Feb 16, 2008, 12:44 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Sterling-Models-...QQcmdZViewItem

in case no one noticed!
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Old Feb 16, 2008, 08:50 PM
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Clockman, You really did get lucky in your fittings find. Whatever you paid for the set, it was probably a real bargain. The missing items you mentioned should be easily found; they are generic items that are usually available in various scales from dealers.
To help you find correct size fittings, my two liferings in my set are 1 1/16" in outer diameter; the inner diameter of them is 1/2". The steering wheel in my set has 6 spokes on it, and measures 1 1/2" from the outer tip of one spoke to the outer tip of the opposite spoke.
Again, I think you will find these items pretty easy to find, though you may find that with some dealers the shipping and handling charges will be almost as much as or more than the cost of the items themselves.
If I can help by giving you the dimensions of other fitting items, let me know. Glad to help a fellow Sterling modeler. Please continue to share your progress with us.
Bill
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Old Feb 16, 2008, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockman
Is there a "factory color" scheme for these? I know the hull should be white, but should it be dark blue at the water line?
50' C*C Catalina, 1951-54

Hull: White
Bottom paint: Copper-bronze
Boot Top (water line stripe): Blue
Cabin top: Blue, Gray in 1952... A guess on my part, when the cabin tops were gray, the boot top stripe was typically red-
Decks were left "natural"

A picture I have of a 1:1 1951 model, shows the flying bridge windsheild frame and the vertical portions of the cabin sides, above the roofline painted white-

Hope that helps!

P.S. if the captain wants astro-turf, the captain gets astro-turf!
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Old Feb 17, 2008, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockman
OH MY GOD!! What luck! I just visited a smalltown hobby store in my area to pick up resin and just mentioned what I was using it on. The son suggested contacting Dumas for fittings, while his father (in his 70's) went into the junk boxes and found a near complete fittings kit (B-7F) for my exact model!!!

All it seems to be missing right now is the steering wheel, life preservers and not sure what else. The lights, prop, cleats, throttle handles, antennae, etc. are there!!!

Now, how to mold them for recasting....

Clockman,for the missing parts check Harbor model or Bluejacket they have different sizes of the items that you may need. You will find something close. Oh yes,about all this talk of the right scale. If it looks right use it,it does not have to be exact,just reasonably close. The steering wheel can be an 1/8th'' either way and have 5,6,7, spokes and still look right.
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Old Feb 17, 2008, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockman
OH MY GOD!! What luck! I just visited a smalltown hobby store in my area to pick up resin and just mentioned what I was using it on. The son suggested contacting Dumas for fittings, while his father (in his 70's) went into the junk boxes and found a near complete fittings kit (B-7F) for my exact model!!!

All it seems to be missing right now is the steering wheel, life preservers and not sure what else. The lights, prop, cleats, throttle handles, antennae, etc. are there!!!

Now, how to mold them for recasting....
Here is a link for some moulding information and supplies.

http://www.smooth-on.com/

I use clay for a background and press the items halfway for a parting line. It will give you a start anyway.
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Old Feb 17, 2008, 07:33 PM
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Charlie's right, of course, about using fittings on your boat. If it looks about right to your eye, use what you have - or can get. It is nice to use fittings that are pretty close to the original when you can.
On my C-C 32' Cruiser, I'm going to be using some Dumas fittings that are surprisingly close to the Sterling originals. The Sterling fitting sets can be right spendy when you see them for sale; the Dumas items were a good bit cheaper and will do just fine.
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