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Old Nov 17, 2009, 12:41 PM
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Hewey19's Avatar
USA, MI, Lansing
Joined Aug 2009
245 Posts
I never realized that servo horns aligned differently depending on which arm you have facing out. This is why Futaba's horns have a little number on each arm. I always just slapped a horn on there and then adjusted it with the sub trim on my radio. No need to do that anymore.
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Old Dec 23, 2009, 01:39 PM
absorbing info - albeit slowly
scotland
Joined Apr 2007
84 Posts
Pins: Use upholsterer's pins, They're around 40mm long (1 1/2") and have a tee shaped head. They don't kill your fingers when pinning a lot of pieces. They are also very easy to grab with pliers for the next bit.

If you're pinning wood together (skinning for example) and trying to remove the pins after the glue has set; Give them a twist first, this will break the glue bonded to the pin before you pull them out. (saving the hard work you've just done)
Actually it's a good habit to twist any pin before you remove it !
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 12:01 PM
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Aug 2009
70 Posts
Just do not buy an ARF! My 2c.
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Old Feb 20, 2010, 07:41 PM
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REDONDO BEACH, CALIFORNIA
Joined Jun 2006
12 Posts
Hello everyboby Victor here, I've been in the hobby for few years , but I just started to scratch build. does anybody knows couple of airfoils for sport planes? Either symetrical or semisymetrical. I have compufoil but they have almost only sailplanes. Any information is useful.

Thank you

Victor
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 01:04 AM
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ozmo01's Avatar
USA, MO, Ozark
Joined Nov 2006
1,478 Posts
helpful stuff

hemostats are great for reaching into the fuse for dropped parts
xacto saw blades for the hobby knife
unwaxed dental floss for wrapping push rod ends etc
spray polyurathane clear for fuel pruffing firewalls , inside of the fuse bottom
save the clear backing from Monokote its thicker/ better that Saran wrap
dollar store for clamps
learn to solder
paint stir sticks with sandpaper glued on are GREAT for shaping
old coro plast signs ( the ones to small for building planes) make good boxes

salvaged foam from the electonics store (softer = better) for padding the Rx, battery and for holding the plane off the table while covering or repairing to stop scratches.
build with a friend(s)
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Old Apr 16, 2011, 03:23 PM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Drywall

Built my first scale kit on my dining room table, with a 1/2 inch sheet of drywall on top. T pins go into it very well, and hold tight!
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 01:34 PM
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United States, CO, Aurora
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolex24hrs View Post
Built my first scale kit on my dining room table, with a 1/2 inch sheet of drywall on top. T pins go into it very well, and hold tight!
Well sure, but now you have to fill all those holes and repaint!
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 03:57 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewey19 View Post
I never realized that servo horns aligned differently depending on which arm you have facing out. This is why Futaba's horns have a little number on each arm. I always just slapped a horn on there and then adjusted it with the sub trim on my radio. No need to do that anymore.
And those numbers mean or correspond to?
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 03:00 AM
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United States, KS, McPherson
Joined Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewey19 View Post
I never realized that servo horns aligned differently depending on which arm you have facing out. This is why Futaba's horns have a little number on each arm. I always just slapped a horn on there and then adjusted it with the sub trim on my radio. No need to do that anymore.
Just take all your horns off, mount your servo's, hook them up to the radio and let the radio center them and then put the horns on to line up with your control surface, that's the way i do it.
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 07:18 AM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2006
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Originally Posted by garciaj View Post
Just take all your horns off, mount your servo's, hook them up to the radio and let the radio center them and then put the horns on to line up with your control surface, that's the way i do it.

That is the way I have always done it. There is a better way?
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 10:43 AM
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United States, KS, McPherson
Joined Apr 2011
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Its the only way that seems to make sense to me idk.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 10:47 AM
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United States, MD, Bowie
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim_ag3y View Post
Don't push pins through balsa sticks such as used in vertical and horizontal stabs . Instead, lay the parts on the plans (covered as indicated above ) and pin OVER the sticks in a criss-cross pattern. You use a few more pins, but you won't split the sticks!

If you are stick building, lay out both sides of the chassis at the same time, one over the other. This will result in both sides being as close to identical as possible.

These are old tricks, but if you are re-constructing vintage planes, or working with any kind of stick construction, they are good to remember!

Cheers, Jim


To do this, do you lay on and glue up the first one, then lay plastic over that and the lay on your second half?

And to add to the info:

www.woodenwonderstx.com sells CA and accelerator pretty cheaply. I turn pens on a lathe and use CA for my finish, so I go through a lot of it.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 03:14 AM
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USA, MO, Ozark
Joined Nov 2006
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Yep, put sumpin' non stick between the two sides. Saran wrap, waxed paper etc.
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 08:24 AM
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Australia, WA, Bullsbrook
Joined Nov 2010
20 Posts
The following web site has a large amount of information and tips for the builder.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...d/fixtures.htm

Transparent book covering film is also very good for covering plans, and it can be re used!

When building frames, such as fuselage sides etc, make sure to build square. Spend a little money on a good engineers square, a 6 inch one is very useful, both on the hobby bench and also in the workshop. A smaller 3 inch square will handle all the wing ribs and most of the fuselage frames, and is not too bulky to fit in between the ribs and frames on the larger models.

Yes, sharp knives and tools are a must!
Sharp tools can be stored in a block of EPS foam for safety.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 03:35 PM
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United States, OR, Roseburg
Joined Jan 2012
101 Posts
something i learned today while trying to sheet a very sharp radius with 3/32 balsa.
i wet the wrong side ok so off to the wood stove to dry the balsa and wet the right side. heat to a wet piece of balsa makes it curve even more dried it out, wet down the right side, and back to the wood stove. perfect fit.

string line levels work great for leveling the stab to the wing.
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