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Old Feb 27, 2009, 03:46 AM
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N12

Quote:
Originally Posted by ooby
The Newport never fails to bring folks out of their homes. Some come over and take their turn at the sticks. We were on the water for a full 3 hours, thoroughly enjoying every second.
Hello Ooby, i bought a N 12 on ebay last summer and am just getting back to work on it and realized I do not have the plan for the waterline-no won;t fit in the tub- do you have the measurements? Saw them somewhere and lost track of them, I a remember stem down, stern, and sides and some stations. Thanks. will post pics when I can.
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Old Feb 27, 2009, 08:09 PM
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N12M waterline

Three thoughts come to mind: Another N12M, mine, and an add for N12s on the back cover of the AMYA quarterly a few years ago.

The other boat, built by a superb craftsman, weighed 40 lbs and sat precisely on its lines at, 11 1/4 in from bow down and 12 in stern down.

Mine at 38 lbs and a couple of ounces, measured on slant, 12 3/4 in bow down, and 11 1/8 stern down. I applied masking tape along two sections of the keel, laid on a dock with the boat in the lake beside me, and marked it, while considering the lake was certainly not glass smooth.

The N12 add quoted a waterline length of 51.5 inches. Mine came out 3.5 to 4 in short, without eboard, mast and sails. I later ignored this number and tried the actual measurement.

In retrospect, mine came out maybe 1/8 in low.

Here's a photo of a home made w/l scribe. I just notched the top and glued a pencil to it.
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Old Feb 28, 2009, 02:43 PM
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N12

Hey Thanks OOby. appreciate your help most heartily. I was going to go black hull w/a white stripe-white waterline, and red under hull, but yours is so pretty I may change my mind. The picture shows the test blue. Q? How well does the cover keep out water? I'm not enamored with the looks of it and I do not have the cover and may design something a little more attractive (lower profile!) out of wood, with a mahog veneer deck. do you get a lot of water over the deck? And thanks for tip for the waterline marker. May your water always be soft and breezes fresh!
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Old Feb 28, 2009, 06:56 PM
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You're most welcome. www.pondboats.com has a beautiful N12M with Mahogany deck and streamlined wood hatch cover. My Newport has never taken on water, but I save it for less windy conditions than I'd sail the EC12, which has taken on water, many times. I just don't want to beat up the sails on the Newport. Your Mahogany deck will be beautiful. I'm currently building an AMYA J, which will have a planked deck of Honduras Mahogany and Basswood Wood decks are great!
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Old Mar 01, 2009, 06:29 PM
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Yes, I know the site. However, I had to go back and look at #702, Beautiful!!! I think I will do a deck like that, but I'll have a black hull like the one sent to Europe wth a white stripe at the side tops and waterline, love that gloss black! I found some mahogany sheets on ebay for about $25 each and they are wider than the boat and 8' long. I can do a on e piece deck, now to find some long basswood pieces.......
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 04:31 PM
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N12 deck

Hello again Ooby! I'm about to attach the sail winch to a hinge system, see my new post, And need help. How wide is your radio/winch board and how far down from the deck is the hinge? I don't have any drawing of how or where to put the hinge/ hull mount and need some guidance so it won't interfere with lifting out the keel weight. I'm also curious, is your deck mounted into the lip of the hull? My deck is pretty thick fiberglass and larger than the opening and would need a lot of trimming ( I would then laminate the mahogany on top of it). So, it would be a lot of work, though I'm sure it would look great, I'm not sure of what to do. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 11:20 PM
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1967,

Just a quick note to say I'll answer with pictures before the end of this weekend. Just walked in the door and am too bushed tonight.

The location of the swing arm winch fulcrum on the boats longitudinal axis is most critical, since either too far forward or rearward will change the max out of the booms.

The Hanna hulls have a lip on which the deck sits, which when trimmed, provide a flush deck. I drilled 95 to 100 holes around the lip, with a slightly larger hole passing through the deck to make sure it didn't crack. Couldn't locate #2 screws, so used #4s. After holes in both deck and lip were drilled, tested, I applied slow drying West Systems epoxy, installed all 95 or 100 screws then babysat the boat for just the right time to remove the screws, some 4 or 5 hours later, or so, just before the epoxy set.

Nuff for tonight...more in the am.
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Old Mar 28, 2009, 09:38 AM
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Deck

Hi, Ooby, Ok, I get screwing down the edge when attaching, but did you trim down the deck edges so it sits flush with the deck edge ( not on top of the lip)? And would you have added some type of lip under the hull lip for the deck to sit on? You also mention the swing arm pivot location, I was going to position mine about 9 or 10 inches forward of the fairlead wth a turning block for a straight upshot to the fairlead. It's a bit farther back then I've seen on the other boat pictures I've seen, but I'm going to include a jib trim servo and probably larger or extra batteries, as I'll probably never race it and it can always be disconnected or removed. This will also add about 6-8 ounces which is okay, since I figure to be a bit light anyway. What do you think?
Thanks again, hope you get to go sailing soon! Are you still frozen in? Here in Virginia/DC the cherry blossoms are coming out! Where are you located?
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Old Mar 28, 2009, 10:25 AM
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The shear is raised and then drops down to accept the deck as an "inlay", so the deck sits inside the edge and on top of the lip. No need to add anything; lip was built in.

My boat meets class requirements, and weighs a little over 38 lbs, but will never race here in the Pacific Northwest, so I wasn't worried about an extra ounce or two. I think the turning block for a straight run to the fairlead is a better idea that what I did.

See your thread for more info.

Ooby
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Old Apr 07, 2009, 12:45 PM
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N12

Here are some pics of the radio install---I do wish I had made it a bit lower and a bit farther aft in the hull as raising the board hits the cross beams, though there is enough space to remove the keel weight.
I have also added some fore and aft braces for the board frame to further strengthen the structure, more later.......
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Old Apr 08, 2009, 08:48 AM
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Your boat is coming along nicely!
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 05:30 PM
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AMYA Newport 12M Class Update Aug 19, '09

Quote from the Model Yachting Magazine, Fall issue, 2009: p. 40., which arrived at my residence today.

A new manufacturer of Newport 12s has been approved, filling the void left by the departure of Hanna Boats. Kay Tillman, of Tillman Boat and Bronze in Riverside, California, submitted a hull to the Class Secretary and Technical Committee for inspection and received certification for his product. He has already produced several hulls. He can also provide rudders, decks, hatch covers, and keel weights. Kay can be contacted at brunton-tillman@gmail.com,... Feel free to contact the Class Secretary for information on the Newport 12 Class, as well as sources for boats and parts".
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 05:57 PM
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Great news!
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Old Aug 20, 2009, 09:19 AM
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Very good news!

edit:
ooby, I just tried to send Kay an email, but the email address you have does not work.
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Old Aug 20, 2009, 01:48 PM
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Well, just rechecked the email address, and it's typed as printed in the magazine. Also listed is his phone number, 951-686-0383. AMYA N12M Class Secretary is Don Dixon, ph:626-664-6964, email: newport12@ModelYacht.org.

That's all I can do.
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