I was mounting up some Compy flat bottom woodies on my BL GWS Dragonfly and decided to lay out the various blades I've got on hand and measure them with some digital calipers to help get perspective on how they fly. Ive measured the overall length and widths near the root and tip to get an idea of overall dimensions. (Of course weight and flex have an impact too. M24s, for example, are a soft blade, while GWS blades, like 90s and Compys are quite stiff and offer differing flight characteristics).

My set up is a GWS Dragonfly (ARC 130, 12T, DD tail, no flybar weights).

I flew the Compys today for the first time today, 4 packs of various sizes (1250-1500 mah, 2 cells). Well made -- when I measured them the had identical cog and weight right out of the pack. Overal nice blades. My assesment is on a smaller machine they might do with a bit of trimming to increase the headspeed. In the wind (+10mph) they were a handful as at times I had throttled back to 25% or so and what little headspeed there was was ennough to keep the soaring -- but a bit too much. This was with a 1500 mah PQ narrow slung underneath. I also flew these in dead calm tonight (LEDS) and they were quite nice, but again they felt "long". The Compys I put in the category of like 90s but they are longer and produce more lift (too much perhaps). Jury still out. A few more flights are in order. I then flew the like0s for direct comparison.

The absolute optimun flying blade remains the like90s. No doubt. No question. Higher headspeed, responsiveness (turning on a dime) -- ideal. I think I can get the compy close to this with a bit of trimming. By the way, Ive got several pairs of like90s and the design is slightly different on some of them...so I am showing an A and B versions. A mounted pair of like90s and compys are shown.

M24s are an excellent blade, but the are quite soft and have different flight characteristics. I enjoy these blades for FFF. Turning is not as tight as like 90s, for sure the softeness factors in, but after you adjust for the characteristics, they are great. (The first time I ever flew these I crashed misjudging the amount of room they need in FFF).

The GWS stocks blades (single hole), should be skipped (too much drag), while the narrower GWS 2090s are the optimum curved plastic blade IMO. Just the slight amount of narrowing near the tip makes a huge differnce. The GWS 2090 blacks are stiffer than the grays (not pictured). The grays, I've determined, may be better for newbies as they are more docile because of the dihedral they create because the are softer. These produce higher lift than the afore mentioned blades. I've flown them on the 12T dragonfly and the punch out it insane; however, these kinds of blades suffer from pitchup in FFF -- therefore, I like flatbottoms a bit more. 10T is probably the right pinion for these with my set-up.

Anyway maybe some of this is helpful for those flying smaller FP machines like the GWS dragonfly and similar (HBFP).

like 90's...i feel bad i've never heard of these

i use the M24's on my HBFP with the slo-max. i have a Compy FP on the way and i'm getting info on what blade works the best on this heli...

I am pretty sure the issue on the compys is the larger area out towards the tip, which obviously is subject to the highest headspeed. They seem to perform well, just a bit more lift than needed. The thinner nature of the outter portion is what gives the higher headspeed on the like90s and m24s, for the size heli Im dealing with. I am thinking about trimming about 8mm-10mm off the compys, not a whole lot. Look at the m24s and like90(B). There are similarities there I want to replicate by timming a compy blade. The weakness in the m24s is the really soft, heavy plastic they are formed form. If they were less pliable they would be a better blade IMO.

Thanks for the very informative post Santini. Thanks You. I have been using the compy blads on my HBFP and found them to have extra lift when I don't need that. Sometimes when flying inside I let off the throttle and they actually increase in elevation. Like they will catch an updraft. I'm sure I will run into this even more flying outside. I do with they had a slightly higher head speed though. I bet trimming the tip's a little would help these blades TONS! I really would like to try the Like 90's. Can you get them in the states?

I agree with the assessment.. however I would not suggest like 90s for the newer pilot. They are wood.. and definately not as durable as the M24s. Most newer pilots don't have the aggressive turns, dives down anyway.

So m24s become a two fold purpose.. This goes hand in hand with changing out Flybar and paddles to CP2s

How would the stock HBFP blades rate against these? They are probably what most people will start out using.

This goes hand in hand with changing out Flybar and paddles to CP2s

Oooh, I've not heard that one. What's the advantage?

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

How would the stock HBFP blades rate against these? They are probably what most people will start out using.

Oooh, I've not heard that one. What's the advantage?

The flybar on a Blade CP is steel with threaded ends. That's why you have to use their paddles. Steel, you can bend straight. Stock carbon rods break easily and often.

Thank you very much Santini. Great thread, and good info/homework, on your part.

Hi Santini,

I have been told that you are the man to talk to in regards to the Dynam Hughes 300.

Do you know of any Major issuses with them.

and does the FP HBee up grades suit the dynam.

Regards Steve

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

How would the stock HBFP blades rate against these? They are probably what most people will start out using.

Oooh, I've not heard that one. What's the advantage?

The stock blades for the FP for all intensive purposes function.. and thats about all I can give them.

When you switch to M24s or Like90s.. you also need to go 12T pinion on 2 cells and/or run 3 cells on 9 or 10T

The basic result is more headspeed which creates more stability.

The Flybar change is about endurance .. but I also think its slightly lighter than the stock set up which also increases the head speed. The CP2 paddles are also smaller and more aerodynamic.. again head speed.

I have tested various lenghts of flybars.. and really longer isn't better. It reduces headspeed.

Keeping head speed high (to a point) is what it is all about. Watch a pro heli 3D pilot. Watch the points when you HEAR the head bog down. They are very very short.. because his setup just rocks!

Originally Posted by Steve Klinac

Hi Santini,

I have been told that you are the man to talk to in regards to the Dynam Hughes 300.

Do you know of any Major issuses with them.

and does the FP HBee up grades suit the dynam.

Regards Steve

PHi, Actually i am not the guy familiar with the dyam -- sorry.
I would do some searches on that. In the mods for the rotofly thread, there might be some pointers there, including trimming blades for a rotofly sized bird if thats in fact applicable. Good luck.

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

How would the stock HBFP blades rate against these? They are probably what most people will start out using.

Ive never owned any stock hbfp blades, but from what I gather they are very similar to the stock (old style) GWS curved blades. I know there are people who have switched to the new GWS blades (2090) with success. These as you can see from the pic I posted are narrower out towards the tip, and while this appears modest, it indeed makes a significant enhancement in head speed. Also, i do not know how stiff the hbfp blades are. For example, the GWS 2090 gray blades are softer than the black 2090s (different composition). I can discern a real difference insofar as the softer blades are more docile due to the dihedral created, meanwhile the blacks are more lively (more like a marble on a glass table). If someone wants to toss a spent hbfp blade into the mail to me (NJ) - will be happy to apply some context of size, weight, shape, stiffness; or send me a whole set and i will fly them and opine. I can send them back if you want i can assure you I will not want them, hehe!

Therefore I think its worth trying the 2090 blades. As for set up, as you may know, its all a balancing act between blades, motor, batt size/cells, pinion, weight; therefore, i advocate making one change at a time and evaluate things like flight time, punch out, power curve, motor temp, flight characteristics. Ive seen some interesting things happen when making such changes.

I'm not done with my research. I will post some additional information shortly to factor in when evaluating blades. I hope this is helpful. Developing a sense around blades and how they work or dont work in the context of your heli is worthwhile. Blades are a very critical point focus.

Well anybody who has bought the FP.. knows what the blades are like You are correct though.. pretty much same as GWS, Walkera, Night Ranger.. blades.

When you lower throttle on a heli it should drop the heli down.. with the stock blades, it wobbles and falls at an angle.. because the head speed goes from fast.. to slow.. with little inbetween.

Having less angle and stiffer material keeps the head speed up, and when you throttle down makes for a gradual transition.. and thus you get the correct response to input.

Santini,
Great thread!
"Watch the points when you HEAR the head bog down."
Describe what "bog" actually means. I wouldn't know it if
I saw (or heard) it.
Also, how do you feel about trimming the chord as opposed to
the tips?
Once again great thread
Hill

Santini, I have so many FP blades! I have WalkeraDF4 and HBFP blades. I also have carbon blades. The best I found due to them being a stiffer material, were Century's,,,, I THINK! They didn't have a name on them, and when I tried to bend them a bit by hand, I broke one!! (stiffer=brittle) Anyway, if you find out what the "no namers" were, let me know,,, Also, have you tried the carbons? I thought they flew nice on a stock HBFP with 3cell lipo, but they're a bit heavy,,,,


Hill, "bog down" means slow down under load. You can hear it. It may also draw energy from your tail motor giving you a nice rotation, that can result in a crash! ( know)!!

Vario, are these the blades you were refering too? RotorTec
Pretty good price, just got a set but haven't flown yet.

Good post Santini, watching this thread! Do you have a source for your like90's?