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Old Jan 27, 2008, 09:48 PM
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Aerokits - Fast Patrol Boat

Well I'm not too sure how much interest this thread will generate as the subject in question is pretty small & simple. However after reading 420TEE's "Just wondering" thread. This was this boat that first got me interested in model boats (mid to late 60s).

At the time R/C was beyond the reach of most people. There were a few fortunate people with the shiny blue aluminium McGregor sets but my brother and I were happy to release my dad's free running boat on one side of the pond and then race round to the other side, catch it and send it back.

In later life I crudely butchered it with some Mecanno and a Futaba 2 channel to convert it to R/C.

As you probably know Aerokits is no more & there is no chance of "buying another", so while visiting my parents at Christmas, I dug out my dad's model (missing a roof panel) and spent a good deal of my Christmas re-drawing the boat in Autocad.

For your reference I attach some pictures of my fathers original & a link to another posting on the Fast Patrol Boat.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...+boat+aerokits

Long term, I want to build my own Aerokits Fireboat & what I learn on this design build will be used when I detail up the classic old Fireboat.


Robert
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Old Jan 27, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Ohhh..ohhhh...ohhhh

Please, please do a build thread Rob. I would be interested in seeing what you can do from the 'modern' CAD drawings.

I've got two of Aerokits plans.. to build.. somewhere in the pipeline... The Sea Hornet and the Sea Nymph
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Old Jan 27, 2008, 11:46 PM
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If you feel that the boat in your pictures is "pretty small', when you build your Aerokits Fireboat, scale it up and build it larger in order to make it more easily r/c'able.
And a build thread would be great.
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Old Jan 28, 2008, 06:30 AM
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Guys, thanks for showing an interest.

I hope to post a couple of pictures in the next few days, but the progress so far -
I have marginally increased the scale. After drawing it full size at the original 20", you can just "scale" to blow up the size of the drawing by what ever factor you want. But of course you need to go back and re-size all the wood sections.

I have just gone for a modest increase (in case of any copyright issues) taking my overall length out to around 24". My bulkheads are 1/8" ply and the keel laminations of 1/4" ply.

The increase in length has helped to provide space for a longer motor. The current plan is to use a Speed 500 with 3:1 planetary box (Maxprods - ACC353 Promax 500BB $59.95)

For transfering the laser print to wood, I tried the hot iron trick and got nowhere other than slightly warping a test piece of ply. In the end I cut out the templates from my print outs with a new X-acto knife & carefully traced around them with a pen. It seems to work OK.

Progress as of last night.
Bulkheads 1,2,3 & transom cut out.
Keel middle lamimate cut out.
Cabin sides cut out.
All pieces slot together nicely :^)

PS - This is also a learing curve on my "brand new - second hand" scroll saw.

Rob
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Old Jan 28, 2008, 09:05 AM
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Rob:
It's nice having CAD (Just picked up a "D" size plotter). On drawings that I don't want to cut up, I use carbon paper between the plan and wood and just trace.
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Old Jan 29, 2008, 08:56 PM
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Waxer, I work for an Engineering company so I have access to a full size design plotter but it sure would be nice to have my own D size !!!

As promised here are the picture of the loose parts cut so far plus a view of them slotted together.

I'm deliberately leaving some edges a little long with a view to sanding them flush after final assembly & glue.

As you can see I still have to cut out the notches in the bulkheads for the stringers. At the moment I'm working towards two 10x5mm laminations to make a 10x10mm for both the chine and the gunwhale stringers. This is substancially more than what I measured on my fathers but at this point I'm planning to doing away with the carved nose block as per the original and the thicker stringer will give me more material to attach the skins to.

Also Im going to use (3) laminations of 1/4" ply for the keel, rather than use the big blocks as per the original. I think this would be plenty strong enough and to my mind be less work than shaving blocks to match the angle of the bottom skins.

Robert
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Old Jan 30, 2008, 12:31 AM
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Looks good, Rob. I sure hope that while you were going to all that trouble enlarging ("a modest increase") your model, you made it large enough.
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Old Jan 30, 2008, 06:41 AM
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Jeepers,
I quite understand your point but here is my reasoning for its size.
1.) Its a quicker build and its the end of Jan already !!
2.) My scroll saw only has a 16" cut.
3.) My other boat a 46" Sea Queen, is very heavy and only just fits in the car. This is the antidote !!
4.) Its more of an exercise in design build work in preparation for when I "reverse engineer" the RAF Fire Boat.

I have already made sure I have sufficient space for the motor. What will be the problem is locating the rudder servo and having clearance for the rudder servo arm. I already have an idea for the configuration. This involves fitting the rudder arm, facing forward and locating the servo to one side of the rudder with the push rod working across the width of the boat. This may / may not be visible from above, hence I have currently not located the stern deck support rib which will govern how much of an overhang I have for hiding my rudder servo assy.
Don't worry if you don't follow, it will be come clear in later postings (I hope).

Rob
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Old Jan 30, 2008, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
As promised here are the picture of the loose parts cut so far plus a view of them slotted together.
Its coming along rather nicely there Rob.

I can see the similar construction to the Sea Nymph plan i have, it looks as if Aerokits found a method of construction that 'worked' and just re scaled it for their different boats...

Watching this one with interest...
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Old Jan 30, 2008, 08:33 AM
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Toes,

It Looks like L.J.Rowell did the designs for Aerokits. I have copies of the plans for their Sea Queen, Fire Tender & Torpedo boat and they are all pretty similar construction.
Unfortunately what I don't have are the plans for this one, hence I had to scrutinise my Dads old one with a pair of vernier calipers....

What I am missing is details of the mast assembly, my dads never had it, also his side windows are one large panel rather than with the division. Not sure whats going on there?

Rob.
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Old Jan 30, 2008, 08:34 AM
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Next step.
I have rough cut the cabin side windows & they will still need a little bit more attention to cut back to the line.
I have cut the rib and notched the cabin side stringers for the stern deck.
Next I have cut the keel "false rebates" between bulkheads 1-2, 2-3 & 3 - transom.
Still nothing is glued, its all still slotting together or just a good fit.

When building my Aerokits SQ. I struggled to drill / file the keel to accept the prop tube and want to make sure it was easier this time, especially as the prop tube goes through bulkhead 2. The bulkheads on this boat are so close together it would be difficult to get tools in after assy to cut the hole so it needs to be done before.

I part cut the keel to make sure there was less chance of the prop tube hole "wandering" while being opened.

Next I profiled the false rebates to match the line of the bottom skins as dictated by the bulkheads.

Now the first bit of gluing.
I glued the false rebates on either side of the keel where the prop tube goes through.

The next day when dry, the bore for the tube was opened up. So much easier when you are just dealing with a keel by itself in the workvice rather than with a part built boat attached.
The tube came through exactly where I wanted, but the will require a bit of filling to clean up between the keel and tube. On the bright side the exit is "perfect". When pushing the tube through it touched the bulkhead right were I had drawn it.

Attached is a pic of the current assembly, remember, the only thing glued so far are the two false rebates, one on either side of the prop tube.

Next steps will be cutting the bulkheads for the chine and gunwale stringers.

Rob
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Old Feb 07, 2008, 09:42 PM
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Over the last view days I have finally got around to notching the bulkheads for the chines and gunwale stringers.
The bulkheads have now been glued in place.

I am a little concerned over my wood (type & size) selection for the chine stringers as I feel the radius may be too tight. To encourage the wood to adopt a more sympathetic shape, I soaked it in water for 30 mins and then have placed both the inner & outer stringers into a custom made jig. I'll leave the wood in there for 48 hrs and see what happens. Maybe I'll need to give it a blast of hot air from my heat gun (airplane covering).
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Old Feb 08, 2008, 05:05 AM
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Rainhill UK
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Just a note about your scroll saw you said "My scroll saw only has a 16" cut" can you not put the blade in at 90 deg to the norm, most saws have this option for pin type blades, it gives you the chance to cut any lenth, also I did a mod on my saw, some have a plastic plate that alows acess to bottom blade mounts ,and on some the hole is very large and the plate can be recesed below the bed,this makes cutting small part difficult as the parts woble on the bed. Imade a new plate out of alloy but it could be made from plasticard laminated , it has made a masive difference to using it and it hardely ever grabs small parts now. I have since shimed it up to be level

by the way great Blog.

Peter
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Old Feb 08, 2008, 06:49 AM
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HS,

My scroll saw is an old Delta 2 speed 16". I have a copy of the instruction book but knowhere does it say anything about acceptable types of blades. When I bought it, it had an opened packet of pin-less blades and those are what I have been using. As a consequence I don't even know if it will take the pinned types. The blade change procedure in the manual makes no mention of locating blade pins, so I guess maybe it does not use them?
I was not aware of the possible option of turning a blade through 90", again no mention in my manual. I'll have to take a look and see if it is feasible.

For larger pieces I think that I will need to investigate spiral cut blades which in theory can cut in any direction.

Thanks for the comment on the blog.
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Old Feb 08, 2008, 11:00 AM
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Have a look at this pdf it shows the different type of blade fitting ,section 3

http://www.sealey-tools.co.uk/instructions/SM43.PDF

Peter
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