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Old Jan 22, 2008, 09:32 AM
Aging Metalhead
stubobb's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
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Rudder servo linkage question + essential V32K info

Sorry to bother with a total noob question, but I'd like an opinion or two before I botch things up.
I have a question about how to link a servo to my rudder. I'm working on a V32K but this seems to be a fairly general linkage.

There's no mention of the rudder servo on the assembly instructions. That wouldn't be a problem if this wasn't my first boat, or if I had ever looked inside one. No pics of this area that I could find on the web either.

So I've got a Futaba 3003 on the radio board with a little arm. The rudder also has an arm. Included in the kit is a rod with a clevis fitting on one end.

I'm thinking the clevis should go at the servo so I can remove it easily if neccesary.
Now the other end...do I just ream out the holes on the rudder arm to fit the rod, then cut and bend the rod into some sort of hook arrangement? Or is there supposed to be some sort of fitting to grip the rod?

Scratching my head on this one. Once I cut the rod there's no going back. Anyone have a clue for sale?
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Last edited by stubobb; Jan 22, 2008 at 11:11 PM. Reason: Got some great 'off topic' info, also to aid in searches
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 09:51 AM
Footy USA 30
DougHemi's Avatar
Joined Apr 2005
117 Posts
I'd recommend using a Du-Bro E/Z Connector (like those shown here). They allow easy adjustment for that last little bit of centering of the rudder. Even a tiny offset of the rudder has serious repercussions in boat speed.

These are readily available at your LHS.

--Doug
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 10:06 AM
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stubobb's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
Excellent! That's the sort of fitting I had pictured in my head, like a throttle linkage in an old carbed car. I suppose I should start familiarizing myself with all this R/C gear, neet stuff.
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 07:27 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD939&P=0

This is one example of the set up...

I personally have this in my V32... but i took out ball and cup and thredded the arm... then i put a brass Clevis like this ....

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRU49&P=0

Makes for a highly adjustable set up.

And also take it from one V32 Sailor to anouther. Get a DX6 or DX7.... Great for this class.. The mixing availible is in your favor. especially the exponential movment of the controlls... Will greatly increase your Reaching skills. plus it also makes for getting the rudder dead center alot easier due to the trim on the radio being so finite.

Hope this helps ...
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 07:39 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
Also just anouther tip from anouther V32 sailor. The boat has problems with diving on the down wind and reaches..... you will want to place your battery pack more strategicly. Placing it infront of the mast is not one of the best places for the pack. The only time you would want the pack so far forward is when the wind was very very light to get the transom out of the water. Keep in mind this is only durring extreamly light conditions.

Other then that it is usually best to have the battery tray near the rudder block. the more weight to the aft the better off you'll be on down wind legs and reaching legs which seem to be the most difficult. This is with the most emphasis on the reaching mark.
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 07:58 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
Also on anouther mention of the DX6 or 7 .... I was in the nationals for the V32.... and was taken out due to radio issues on day one... missed 3 races while i did a feild swap of the radio. That night i went out and purchessed a dx6 and could not be happier. I ended up finishing 6th in the regata Almost getting 5th which was held by Hank Evans. Almost recovered from the devistating loss of points from day one with the 3 DNF's. Was out of the placings by 5 points.


Anouther tip .... Take a look at the approved modifacations to the V32.... from this year.


Motion 1) Clew Reinforcment (Increases Life of sails)
Motion 2) Lower shrowds (Imperitive for straiting the mast and Stability)
Motion 3) Hull Reinforcment

In additon since your still in the construction phase of your build... i would sacrifice the the ounces to add a second brace to your rudder block. This is a commonly damaged area to the boat since there is nothing really stabalizing the virtical portion of the rudder shaft. Commonly causeing Leaks at the rudder block. The recomendation with Motion 3 being passed is to have a peice of wood going from starbord to port. just under the top of the rudder post.
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
Good tips, thanks. May I have s'more please, Sir? Anyone mind if I broaden this discussion a bit?

I have to mention again that this is my first boat, and first foray into anything R/C. I rented a boat in Central Park once way back in the early '90s, so I don't know how to sail.
I tried to research as best I could but real hard-core info seems very scarce. That yahoo V32 group appears quite dead indeed. I got some good snippets from the guy who documented building the three V32's and from the pics of the repair of the 'Stingray'. But that's all they were, snippets. Mostly left me with more questions.
Check out the Yahoo group's pics area and you'll see the pics of my build, mistakes and all.

The radio: When I decided to build a boat I did a little research and noticed the DX-6 right away. I have no idea how to use it's features but I immediately liked the idea of not having to choose a frequency and the ability to use it for any other R/C projects I might undertake. Alas, it was not to be. I needed a new set of tires and I cracked my flexplate all in the last couple of weeks...that translated to a Futaba Attack, LOL! Probably snag the DX-6 before summer.

Battery placement: I read somewhere around 'das web' that getting the transom out of the water was a good thing. When I tried to balance the boat from the keel slot I noticed that it seemed very tail heavy and that pretty much cinched it. In light of new info, I'll make a little spot for a battery pack just fore of the rudder block too first thing in the morning. Too much petite shirah to start cutting wood right now.

Hull reinforcements: The thing just plain looked dodgy as soon as I pulled everything from the box and perused the build sheets. I went ahead and devised some reinforcing for the keel box area. I intended to strengthen the rudder area as well, but talked myself out of it. I did place a layer of 1/32" plywood in the hull under the rudder block. I'll get right on a side to side arrangement and pop in a couple of gussets fore and aft.
FWIW I put a gusset in the bow because, well, it looked like it was needed.
I also beefed up the area under the deck where that bow eyelet will go.

Lower shrouds: Are those the lines that stabilize the mast? If so I sure could use some specific info on that assembly and so would any other noob who found their way here. I'll be dealing with the rigging very soon. I was thinking some very fine stainless cable, like that used on drafting tables, would be perfect, but I'm at a loss for what sort of fittings to use. It's way too skinny for the Nico-Press crimps, 'biners, shackles and turnbuckles I'm familiar with(spent a decade working theatrical rigging).

Clew reinforcement: From what I've recently read, is that how one attatches the sails to the booms? What constitutes a clew 'reinforcement'? I have no idea how it attatches in the first place.

That's enough for now, oww, my fingers hurt from typing!

Stubobb
aka: Kris S.
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Last edited by stubobb; Jan 22, 2008 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 12:24 AM
Useful Idiot
Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
3,545 Posts
Kriss, we're trying to put a thread together on kit boats, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=767639 Unfortunately, Victor boats are a bit of an unknown quantity on this side of the Atlantic, although I've heard that the V32 is very popular over there. I hope you don't mind me linking your thread to that one.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 11:59 AM
Aging Metalhead
stubobb's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
I don't mind at all. I've already made an appearance over there. I'd have posted a bit more over there, but it seemed more like a "This boat exists and here's a short review" sorta thing as opposed to a "How the heck do I get this witch to go together" thing.
Thanks for helping out with this non-state-of-the-art boat.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 01:27 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
What you want for your shrowds is called a Pull Pull Kit.... used in Aircraft.... the kit contains steel cabling which also good for your back stay. Also includes 2x turnbuckles and 4 peices of copper tubbing for crimping. I would suggest in buying a pack of wire crips or cuting one in half. You will need a total of 5 Crimps...

Keep in mind that this is one continous wire.

Here is the link for the Pull pull kit

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV14&P=7

and the attached Diagram of how to use it...
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 01:31 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
Also ... the Clew....

After sailing the V32 you'll see how the Clew does not pull evenly on the sail.

It is the place where the boom attaches to the mainsail. Puting a patch on that will actualy increase the sail life and overall performance. If you don't the sail will streach and develope a wrinkle interupting the foil of the sail.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 01:56 PM
Aging Metalhead
stubobb's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
Again, thanks for the concrete info.

That Sullivan cable kit, is that enough cable to cover the needs of the backstay as well, or should I grab 2 kits? I don't mind having leftovers but hate being left short.

I've been flying trick kites for years, I'm certain I could use the same patching materials for the sail reinforcements.

This just keeps getting cooler and cooler!
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 04:10 PM
V32 Racer
Cryodacry's Avatar
Iowa
Joined Mar 2007
47 Posts
it is more then enough cable but you'll be left shy on the crimps.... Also if your going to be using it for the Back stay make sure you still use the Bowsie...

The back stay is the only adjustment you have for the shape of the Jib....

The boat design needs a Toping lift but is currently outlawed in the rules.... so untill we are alowed the toping lift we must be very very careful with our backstay adjustments. It is Too Easy to over tighten it and kill the shape of the jib sail. Sometimes these adjustments for light air require you to have almost no backstay tention .... this is where the lower Shrowds come into play of keeping that mast on your boat. If you read up on that these boats are easily demasted. Especially in rough water. One thing i would highly recomend also is if you have some 3 in 1 oil or some 5 weight... i would put some of that on a peice of cloth and rub the wire with it and get it inside the braid. This will help protect the wire from rusting as it gets wet. Though on the other aspect of it ... it is a 10 dallor kit and just takes time to replace.

When your setting up the Pull pull kit make sure you pay attention to how strait your mast is ....

Victor products are noctorious for warped masts. Infact they are somewhat rare.

If your not worried about astectics i would recomend breaking your mast and re-glueing it strait. It is almost 10 to 1 odds that your mast is not strait. there are also some tricks with using a heat gun and Ice to straiten the mast.... but that gets to be really tricky

When your not sailing the boat make sure you loosen the clew or un-hook it... takes all preasure off of that clue. In addition i came up with a really slick way of storing the sails... Take two peices of plexy glass and sandwitch the sails .... you'll knotice that the sails naturally curl. This is due to how they were made. to fix this ... the best methode is to take the sails and sandwitch thim between plexy glass. while doing this use and iron or a heat gun to warm up the sails.... while maintaining High Preasure sandwitching the sails....

If you do that they come out with sharp edge on the Leach of the sail. This is also a methode of revitalizing a sail after a season. But mainsails are only good for about 1 competitive season. Jibs actauly need a bit of use before they become competative. They hold their shape better after use ...

Also .... Black Sails are GOOD !
lol may not loog good but they actualy generate their own wind in light conditions.... One side of the sail is hotter then the other causing air flow. and as silly as it sounds .... it can make or break a race with no wind....

After all these mods.... the great thing that it comes down to in these boats.... Is that it is all Skill .... These just make the boat more realiable.... the skill of the sailor ultimatly determines how well these boats do.
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Old Jan 24, 2008, 04:40 PM
Silly Old Fart
CaptainBit's Avatar
New Zealand, Wellington, Masterton
Joined Mar 2006
219 Posts
The very best wire to use for your shrouds can be obtained from your local fishing supply store.
Ask for "stainless leader wire".
This is a stainless steel 7 stranded nylon covered flexible wire that comes in various breaking strains and is what everyone uses for making the standing rigging.
Crimps of different sizes to fit the wire are available, also from the same shops.

Rigging wire link
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Old Jan 24, 2008, 05:44 PM
Aging Metalhead
stubobb's Avatar
Brooklyn, NY
Joined Nov 2007
53 Posts
Guess I have to get to a good tackle shop as well as a good R/C shop to put eyeballs on this stuff.

Anyway, I went to a local R/C car shop and found a couple of suitable bits for the rudder servo. It wasn't exactly what I was looking for, but it'll do.
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Last edited by stubobb; Jan 24, 2008 at 09:11 PM.
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