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Old Jan 22, 2008, 11:44 PM
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USA, TN, Murfreesboro
Joined Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl T
PerlAddict , you could put your extra bushings in from the inside. Use a drill to drill thru the fuse after pushing the rod into the fuse side,then insert the rod part way,put the bushing on the rod and slide it into a hole in the fuse. You might have to remove the fan exhaust duct mylar to get them in.
Yeah, I thought about that, but I'm pretty sure I'd have to remove the exhaust ducting, and that's already in there and positioned (and epoxied in place), along with the fuse's bottom being epoxied, as well.

I think with the fairing mods (CF rod in the top, 1/32 plywood along the bottom), it'll be alright. The bushings certainly wouldn't hurt, but I think if it fails with the mods that are already in place, then it's going to fail no matter what I've got. The rod extends into the foam of the fuse right now (just stick a toothpick through the sleeve to make a little hole), and it still turns easily.

As a side note, something to definitely NOT do is spill blue loctite when installing the screw on the ball link, and then pull the stabilizer out of the sleeve to clean it when you notice loctite got on the end of the stabilizer rod ... got loctite all over the inside of the brass sleeve and on the rod when I didn't clean the sleeve out first before putting the rod back in! Thankfully, I noticed it pretty quick, pulled it back out, and sanded it all down, and it's fine now. But man, I was sweatin' it for a second when I noticed my stabilizer was pretty much stuck for that moment!
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Old Jan 22, 2008, 11:49 PM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
Tehachapi ,CA.
Joined Apr 2006
20,752 Posts
why did you epoxy the duct to the plane ?....it's better to tape the duct to the fan ,that way it can be removed so you can work on the plane .....just hang around we'll help you learn all these tricks. PS Perl the stock ball and sockets are metric. dubros are standard...you could do like C/N did his heavy duty see his pics in the upgrade thread.or go to hp and get replacements ...don't try and repair.
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Last edited by AIR SALLY; Jan 22, 2008 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 12:12 AM
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USA, TN, Murfreesboro
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Sorry, should have clarified ... I didn't epoxy the duct to the plane. I epoxied the fan in. But the duct is connected to the fan, obviously, and then fan is now inside the fuse, which is glued shut. I'm not worried about the extra bushings enough to bother with taking things back apart (finished up all the assembly tonight aside from the ball-links and sanding down some spackle that's filling cracks, anyway, so the exhaust duct is already in place, too).

Dubro makes a 2mm swivel ball link as well as the standard sizes, so I thought perhaps they made some smaller metric ones, as well.


I PM'd Corsair Nut to see if he could direct me on what to use when upgrading the control linkages. My LHS is a HobbyTown, so I can't just run down and ask the local R/C plane guru at the shop, because there isn't one. Nice people and handy having them in town for oddball parts if you don't mind paying an extra buck or two, but they're definitely not R/C plane specialists.
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Old Jan 23, 2008, 01:38 AM
Never fast enough...
Reman's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Oct 2006
660 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
I understand the theory of balanced control surfaces, but dont get why being unbalanced would be the cause of flutter. When I visualise the controls I see the majority of weight hanging off behind the pivot point, which says to me more stability in the fin when travelling in that one direction.

I would have thought that slop and poor strength in the mounting points for the fins would be the real cause of flutter that people have experienced.
I agree, that makes sense. Weight on the trailing edge would tend to stabilize it, I would think.

One of my 16's is basically stock (except for the esc that allows me to go 4S.) One of the cheapy Cirrus servos has some slop in the gears. It seems to me that would be a source of flutter before an unbalanced taileron would.

I'm running HS65MG's on the faster 16, its got zero slop.

BTW, here's a tip for those who are running the stock linkage setup. Put a dab of CA on the Z-bend/servo arm joint and let it dry. The metal will not bond to the CA but it will make a nice tight joint and the only slop you'll have is in the servos, if any...

...might help to prevent any potential flutter or "hunting" while in flight...
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Old Jan 24, 2008, 07:01 PM
CARL T
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United States, OR, Grants Pass
Joined Dec 2005
395 Posts
Here is another way to make the inner end support for the Elevon shafts.
I made mine out of .080 ABS plastic. Cut slots down into the foam near the outer surface 3/8th deep and epoxy them in. When they are cured, run a .093" drill thru the brass thru the plastic and test with the .090 rod from side to side.
You must cut clearance into the top to fit over the supports and shafts.
Carl go to:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t=Phase+3+F+16
Page 73 post # 1094
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Old Jan 24, 2008, 07:04 PM
CARL T
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Last edited by Carl T; Jan 25, 2008 at 02:26 AM. Reason: posted twice Why ?
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Old Jan 25, 2008, 07:10 AM
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Joined Nov 2006
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Prototype F-16

Looking for pictures of prototype-- General Dynamics I think YF-16
Hadnt checked decal sheet yet so may not have to make up lettering. dk
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Old Jan 25, 2008, 07:18 AM
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Elevon flutter

Anyone have the thread for balancing elevons? dk
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Old Jan 25, 2008, 03:26 PM
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Turn n Burn's Avatar
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA Klein
Anyone have the thread for balancing elevons? dk
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...06277&page=134
new f-16 at hobby people .net - Page 134 - RC Groups........ HenryV used lead but you can use pennies or washers
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Old Jan 25, 2008, 09:40 PM
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Elevon flutter

Thanks burn as know Id seen that somewere. dk
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Old Jan 27, 2008, 07:17 AM
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carbon rods

Anyone use a hot stiff rod on the end of needle nose plyers for laying trench for carbon rods? dk
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Old Jan 27, 2008, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA Klein
Anyone use a hot stiff rod on the end of needle nose plyers for laying trench for carbon rods? dk
Look at tailslide's application. Its easy and effective
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...74#post9007126
Phase 3 - Hobbypeople F16 UPGRADES - Page 74 - RC Groups
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Old Mar 31, 2008, 07:52 AM
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Joined Feb 2008
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phase 3 f-16

Maidened my f-16 yesterday. It was way out of trim, but i fixed that over time. The carbon fiber strips and plywood on the tail seem to make a huge difference in strength and those bushing feel right out of the tail so they were glued back in with epoxy. These fixes are an absolute necessity. I also added rare earth magnets to the canopy, i do not trust that latch that it came with. Once it was trimmed it was a blast to fly. Stock power is good, and the plane will slow to a crawl and some high alpha passes are possible with the help of some wind. All in all it was good, Thanks guys for posting these tips.

Jarred
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Old Apr 01, 2008, 01:44 AM
CSI
I promise, just ONE more order
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Del Rio Intl, Texas, United States
Joined Feb 2004
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Jarred,
Welcome to RCGs! Those are some real find photos of your plane. Nice work getting those shots. Congratulations on the successful maiden. Make yourself at home here at RCG...soooo much to learn. Lot's of smart folks around here that post some really good and interesting info/data.
Ken
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Old Apr 01, 2008, 09:44 AM
STILL NO BUCKING IDEA
mr fabulous's Avatar
perth western australia
Joined Aug 2007
506 Posts
Excellent thread . I read thru 25-30 pages of the other upgrade thread and it was hard going............Too much information...............

For an casual builder like myself, these pages are gold, easy and straight forward to read......... thanks
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