Sticky: FAQ/Advice/Help with getting started - Page 3

Whorges · Jul 10, 2008, 09:29 PM

Alot of people seem to like the neu 1509/1.5D/6.7 with 4 or 5 cell lithium and 16x17 slim prop. 3 cell lithium might be a cheaper and tamer version for sport flying and less risk of burning up something. Also people use the CC125 with this so a CC180 should be a good long term investment.

The guys that fly neu's scoff a bit at the hackers. I have no experience so take this for what it is.

I'm in the process of my first f5b plane:
Enigma, Neu 1509/1D/6.7, 3s1p neu 5000, 16x17 slim, CC125, 4xJR168s, 1xD60. All in for close to $1800, but the parts should be a good investment. All the parts are amazing and I can't wait for the synergy to start! Hot lining is no joke!

I think you can warm line for much much less investment so just think about what parts you'll upgrade later so you can make good investments now. Good luck and have fun!

jsnaphook · Jul 11, 2008, 09:04 PM

arocholl, take a look at the Kamelot, Diamond, Absolute in here:

http://www.fvk.de/Englisch/FVK-Model...h-Version.html

Juan

arocholl · Jul 14, 2008, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whorges

Alot of people seem to like the neu 1509/1.5D/6.7 with 4 or 5 cell lithium and 16x17 slim prop. 3 cell lithium might be a cheaper and tamer version for sport flying and less risk of burning up something. Also people use the CC125 with this so a CC180 should be a good long term investment.

The guys that fly neu's scoff a bit at the hackers. I have no experience so take this for what it is.

I'm in the process of my first f5b plane:
Enigma, Neu 1509/1D/6.7, 3s1p neu 5000, 16x17 slim, CC125, 4xJR168s, 1xD60. All in for close to $1800, but the parts should be a good investment. All the parts are amazing and I can't wait for the synergy to start! Hot lining is no joke!

What is the difference between /1.5D/ and /1D/ ?

arocholl · Jul 14, 2008, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsnaphook

arocholl, take a look at the Kamelot, Diamond, Absolute in here:

http://www.fvk.de/Englisch/FVK-Model...h-Version.html

Juan

Thanks for the pointers. Absolute is two-piece wing. It looks robust (and reports I saw in threads apparently confirms that) but all entry level F5B/F I saw so far are one-piece wing.

Diamond looks good, although apparently a bit over the price I expected to limit myself in this case.

Kamelot, looks right on target in price, but still two-piece wing, sub $400 price apparently, lot of room inside. I will look closer for differences on these birds.

Whorges · Jul 14, 2008, 02:19 PM

The difference between the 1.5d and the 1d is the kV (rpm/volt). Basically the 1d runs on 3S and the 1.5d is more for 4S or 5S if you want to push it. Another difference is the number of winds. The wires have a D shape wind 1 or 1.5 times? I'm not sure about this. The y's I think are a y shaped wind. Check out www.neumotors.com for more info.

arocholl · Jul 14, 2008, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whorges

The difference between the 1.5d and the 1d is the kV (rpm/volt). Basically the 1d runs on 3S and the 1.5d is more for 4S or 5S if you want to push it. Another difference is the number of winds. The wires have a D shape wind 1 or 1.5 times? I'm not sure about this. The y's I think are a y shaped wind. Check out www.neumotors.com for more info.

Thanks yes I saw the difference in Kv and Rm, but didn't know recommended cell count, thanks for that. It looks like I want the 1D then.

It takes time (for me at least) to become familiar with a motor brand naming schema. I am so far very familiar with MEGA for inrunner and AXI for outrunner, unfortunately there is little to be reused with Neu. There is clearly additional wire turns for higher Rm and lower Kv, but how each brand, and family inside a brand name it... well... there is really a learning curve. Problem is getting familiar with Neu takes real money so I want to be on target.

So I guess one variable on the equation is clear Neu 1509/1D/6.7 + CC180.

arocholl · Jul 14, 2008, 05:31 PM

Just out of curiosity: no use then of any MEGA + gear in F5F anyone?

Any good reason to prefer Neu over Hacker? Or is it more a religious thing than a technical decission?

Masterpiece · Jul 15, 2008, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arocholl

Just out of curiosity: no use then of any MEGA + gear in F5F anyone?

Any good reason to prefer Neu over Hacker? Or is it more a religious thing than a technical decission?

At the moment, I believe that NEU is the leader in efficiency and just general quality. Don't get me wrong though, Hacker are still amazing motors. It's just if I was given for free a motor, I'd take the NEU Motor

So with that said ..... Any chance of a FREE motor, Steve Neu

Masterpiece · Jul 15, 2008, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whorges

The difference between the 1.5d and the 1d is the kV (rpm/volt). Basically the 1d runs on 3S and the 1.5d is more for 4S or 5S if you want to push it. Another difference is the number of winds. The wires have a D shape wind 1 or 1.5 times? I'm not sure about this. The y's I think are a y shaped wind. Check out www.neumotors.com for more info.

D = Delta wind
Y = WYE wind (a Y shape, yes)

arocholl · Jul 15, 2008, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Masterpiece

D = Delta wind
Y = WYE wind (a Y shape, yes)

FYR http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/a406.shtml

Whorges · Aug 30, 2008, 07:23 AM

There is much reference to the difficutly in launching square/over square propped planes.

Does the torque of the motor tend to roll the plane to the left?
Do you compensate by launching with the wing tilted to the right?
Does the prop wash push the rudder and yaw the plane to the left?
Is it important to give the plane a hard throw, or focus more on launching with proper attitude?

Whorges · Aug 30, 2008, 07:30 AM

On my enigma I have a 16x17 slim mounted on a RFM spinner. The spinner attaches to the motor (1509/1D/6.7) shaft by 2 set screws. The shaft came with no flats on it. I put some loctite on the screws and torqued them in until the allen wrench looked like it was going to break.

Have you ever had a spinner come of the shaft under these conditions?
Should I have machined flats on the shaft?

dickw · Aug 30, 2008, 10:47 AM

Yes I have had a prop come off the shaft after fixing as you described. Now I only use 1 of the screws, and grind a flat for it on the shaft. Don't have problems now.

Practice throwing a piece of 2x2 timber until you can throw it hard and STRAIGHT. Then with your transmitter in hand practice switching on the motor just as you throw the timber. Once you have got the hang of that you will be OK launching F5B.

For what it is worth I think proper attitude is more important than hard throw (but both is better

) - these things accelerate quick enough to get themselves out of a lot of trouble.

Dick

jsnaphook · Aug 30, 2008, 05:09 PM

I grind a flat and use one screw and a very small amount of goop. No more hunting for spinner and prop ($$$) in tall grass.

Juan

Whorges · Aug 30, 2008, 08:10 PM

Hmm, this is two votes for a flat and only one screw...
Why not 2 flats and 2 screws?
I imagine if the prop came off in flight and you kept on the motor at all, that the motor is done?
How do you make the flat?

Aug 30, 2008, 07:23 AM	#41
Whorges Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 279	F5B Launch Technique There is much reference to the difficutly in launching square/over square propped planes. Does the torque of the motor tend to roll the plane to the left? Do you compensate by launching with the wing tilted to the right? Does the prop wash push the rudder and yaw the plane to the left? Is it important to give the plane a hard throw, or focus more on launching with proper attitude?

Aug 30, 2008, 07:30 AM	#42
Whorges Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 279	RFM spinner joint On my enigma I have a 16x17 slim mounted on a RFM spinner. The spinner attaches to the motor (1509/1D/6.7) shaft by 2 set screws. The shaft came with no flats on it. I put some loctite on the screws and torqued them in until the allen wrench looked like it was going to break. Have you ever had a spinner come of the shaft under these conditions? Should I have machined flats on the shaft? Last edited by Whorges; Aug 30, 2008 at 02:28 PM.

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Jul 10, 2008, 09:29 PM	#31
Whorges Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 279	Alot of people seem to like the neu 1509/1.5D/6.7 with 4 or 5 cell lithium and 16x17 slim prop. 3 cell lithium might be a cheaper and tamer version for sport flying and less risk of burning up something. Also people use the CC125 with this so a CC180 should be a good long term investment. The guys that fly neu's scoff a bit at the hackers. I have no experience so take this for what it is. I'm in the process of my first f5b plane: Enigma, Neu 1509/1D/6.7, 3s1p neu 5000, 16x17 slim, CC125, 4xJR168s, 1xD60. All in for close to $1800, but the parts should be a good investment. All the parts are amazing and I can't wait for the synergy to start! Hot lining is no joke! I think you can warm line for much much less investment so just think about what parts you'll upgrade later so you can make good investments now. Good luck and have fun!

Jul 11, 2008, 09:04 PM	#32
jsnaphook Noonan! Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tahoe Posts: 787	arocholl, take a look at the Kamelot, Diamond, Absolute in here: http://www.fvk.de/Englisch/FVK-Model...h-Version.html Juan

Jul 14, 2008, 02:19 PM	#35
Whorges Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 279	The difference between the 1.5d and the 1d is the kV (rpm/volt). Basically the 1d runs on 3S and the 1.5d is more for 4S or 5S if you want to push it. Another difference is the number of winds. The wires have a D shape wind 1 or 1.5 times? I'm not sure about this. The y's I think are a y shaped wind. Check out www.neumotors.com for more info.

Jul 14, 2008, 05:31 PM	#37
arocholl Electric powered Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 314	Just out of curiosity: no use then of any MEGA + gear in F5F anyone? Any good reason to prefer Neu over Hacker? Or is it more a religious thing than a technical decission?

Aug 30, 2008, 10:47 AM	#43
dickw Grow old disgracefully! Join Date: May 2006 Location: Luton, UK Posts: 420	Yes I have had a prop come off the shaft after fixing as you described. Now I only use 1 of the screws, and grind a flat for it on the shaft. Don't have problems now. Practice throwing a piece of 2x2 timber until you can throw it hard and STRAIGHT. Then with your transmitter in hand practice switching on the motor just as you throw the timber. Once you have got the hang of that you will be OK launching F5B. For what it is worth I think proper attitude is more important than hard throw (but both is better ) - these things accelerate quick enough to get themselves out of a lot of trouble. Dick

Aug 30, 2008, 05:09 PM	#44
jsnaphook Noonan! Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tahoe Posts: 787	I grind a flat and use one screw and a very small amount of goop. No more hunting for spinner and prop ($$$) in tall grass. Juan

Aug 30, 2008, 08:10 PM	#45
Whorges Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 279	Hmm, this is two votes for a flat and only one screw... Why not 2 flats and 2 screws? I imagine if the prop came off in flight and you kept on the motor at all, that the motor is done? How do you make the flat?