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Napo Monasterio is back at it with another nearly indestructible plane, the Swift II. It looks cool, sure, but how does it fly? And how far will Napo go to test its durability?
 
MSComposit Swift II Flying Wing Review
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By Spackles94 Spackles94 is offline
Old Mar 05, 2008, 08:08 PM
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From ripping the bag open to gluing the winglets, the Swift II can be put together in a matter of hours.
Wingspan: 32"
Wing Area: 350 sq. in.
Weight: 9.5 oz.
Length: 20.5"
Wing Loading: 3.9 oz/sq. ft.
Servos: Two Spektrum S75
Transmitter: JR XP662
Receiver: Spektrum AR6000
Battery: Common Sense RC 2S 10C 800mAh LiPo
Motor: Axi Gold Line 2208/26 brushless motor
ESC: Jeti Advance 12 Plus
Manufacturer: MSCompositUSA
Available From: MSCompositUSA
Price: $39.91

Introduction

Flying wings, in and of themselves, have a certain cool character to them. After all, there's nothing that looks more menacing than a B-2 Spirit stealth bomber coming right at you. Without a doubt, it surpasses all known levels of coolness. Who needs a fuselage when you have two wings full of bombs anyway, right?

I don't have one of these in my hangar, so the Swift II will have to suffice in lieu of a real-life B-2 Spirit. (Photo by Staff Sgt. Bennie J. Davis III/U.S. Air Force via Wikipedia)
 

Unfortunately, I don't have the disposable income (or the hangar space) to land me one of those. And, to top things off, I'm rather experienced at breaking things, so I need something a bit durable.

The MSComposit Swift II fits the bill (and the wallet, too). Made of foam, and with roughly a three-foot wingspan, it's a sleek looking flying wing that requires simple electronics, builds quickly, requires little storage room, and allegedly will stand to the wrath of Napo at the helm.

I've never flown one of these things before, so will I earn my wings with this one?

Kit Contents

All the items come packaged in a plastic bag, and inside it you will find:

  • Two wing halves and two winglets.
  • Pushrod connectors, control rods and control horns.
  • Motor mount.

As you can see, the kit is rather simple — a clear indication of how quick this build will come together.

I received the USAF paint scheme of the Swift II, but the manufacturer offers a whopping 13 different versions of it — from the military ones like the one I reviewed to more futuristic-looking ones to, well, some that are a bit too R-rated to show on this article.

Four pieces of foam and a bag of goodies, that's all that comes out of the box. Translation: This is going to be a quick build. The detail on the EPP foam is amazing, and it will last, too.
 
This plane is all foam and plastic but it has some nice touches, such as included pushrod connectors.
 

Here's what you'll need to complete the review:

  • Two micro servos: I used Spektrum S75 servos, though you could just as easily use the ever-so-versatile Hitec HS-55s, too.
  • Receiver: I used a Spektrum AR6000.
  • Motor: I used a Axi Gold Line 2208/26 brushless motor, provided by MSComposit for this review.
  • Prop adapter: You'll need a prop adapter for this motor, which MSComposit sent as well.
  • Speed controller: I used a Jeti Advance 12 Plus, provided by MSComposit for this article.
  • Propeller: I opted for the recommended APC 8x6 slow-fly prop, provided by MSComposit.
  • (Note: You can buy the whole power system as a combo from MSCompositUSA.)
  • Battery: I used a Common Sense RC 2S 10C 800mAh LiPo, which Common Sense RC had provided for a previous review (of the LittleBirdz LoLo).
  • CA glue: Since this is an EPP plane, there's no need for foam-safe CA, though you may still use it if you wish.
  • CA kicker
  • Servo tape
  • Strapping tape: I like using the 3M fiberglass tape, and that's what I put on my Swift II.
  • X-Acto knife, solder, soldering iron and whatever else you like using on the workbench — the usual staples of any build.

The recommended Axi Gold Line motor is a perfect fit for the Swift both in terms of power, weight and efficiency. Three screws and a prop adapter are all you need to connect the APC propeller to your Axi motor.
 
The Jeti Advance 12 plus is simple enough to set up, yet it has enough features that will work great with the Axi motor. The light, powerful and fast Spektrum S75 servos do the job just fine. Note that I did trim the tabs off to make them fit on the precut servo holes.
 

Assembly

I must warn you — if you have a three day weekend with frightful weather outside, this project may disappoint you. It's an amazingly quick build. You could start in the morning and be done in the afternoon, or the evening if you choose to take your time.

The instructions (available here) do a good job of showing you where everything goes, but beyond that they're rather stark. I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but there are barely any words there, and sometimes it's tricky to figure out what you're supposed to do next.

Wing

The first order of business is to glue the two wing halves together. This can just be done with regular CA glue. I used Mercury Adhesives' M100XF, which I've reviewed before, and I used some kicker to speed up the process. Make sure you attach the two parts together while laying them on a level surface. That way, you'll keep them straight.

And with that, ladies and gentlemen, the plane is built.

Motor installation

AXI GOLD LINE 2208/26 SPECS

The recommended Axi Gold Line motor is a perfect fit for the Swift both in terms of power, weight and efficiency.
 
Number of cells 2S-3S LiPos
kV rating 1420
Weight 45g
Maximum efficiency 82%
Shaft diameter 3.17mm
Current capacity 11A / 60 seconds
Maximum power (watts) 120W
Maximum rpms 15,000
Poles 12

Putting the motor mount together was a breeze: snap, glue, repeat. Attaching it to the plane was equally easy. Be sure you set it straight (that's why I drew a line along the center of the motor mount, so I could be sure I didn't add any unwanted thrust angle).

The instructions offer a similar setup for a geared motor, but since I went the direct-drive, brushless route, I didn't have to worry about that. It's nice to have that choice, though.

Made out of just four parts, the motor mount is sturdy and attaches to the wing with some glue so that in case of unexpected landings it would just come come off instead of ripping up half the plane.
 

Now, a question you might have at this point is: Which way is the motor supposed to turn? And how is the propeller supposed to be installed? Don't feel too bad about that — I wondered the same thing myself, too, but the answer is simple:

  • The motor is supposed to turn the "normal" way — that is, if you were looking at it from behind, it would be turning clockwise.
  • As far as the prop goes (granted you're using a normal prop and not a pusher prop), it should be installed with the numbers on the front facing the prop. So, technically you're installing it backwards, but then again, looking at it from the side it would look just like a prop you had just installed on the front of the plane.

Axi's Gold Line brushless motor and a 8x6 prop: a recipe for success — and speed. Notice how the the prop is installed: the numbers face the motor.
 

Radio Installation

Now that you have your flying wing built, it's time to go ahead and place all the electronics in place. It's a simple job, but you're going to have to enlarge most of the holes.

Servos: Unless you have a bigger-than-usual servo, there should be no work in this department; they just drop in without any trim work. I cut the screw ends so they would fit fine, and then I added some servo tape to hold them in place.

Beware: You want to make sure that the servos are centered before you set them into place.

Once you have them into place, it's just a matter of attaching the control horns. The included setup is a great addition to the kit: the control horns are thick and sturdy, the control rods already have a Z-bend on them, and for the icing on the cake, the kit includes two pushrods connectors a la Du-Bro Mini-EZ connector which makes trimming the control surfaces much easier. I found that to be an extremely nice touch.

The precut holes for the servos are the perfect size for the Spektrum S75s or your favorite micro servo. As a friendly reminder, be sure to have them centered before you set them in place.
 

I dug the wires into the foam, an optional step but one that makes the bottom of the plane a lot cleaner.

JETI ADVANCE 12 SPECS

The Jeti Advance 12 plus is simple enough to set up, yet it has enough features that will work great with the Axi motor.
 
Number of cells Li-Po 2-3, NiCD/NiMH 6-10
Maximum continous amps 12A
Weight 10g
BEC Linear/1A
Maximum servos 2-4/5V
Dimensions 32mm x 23mm x 6mm
Programming Battery type; low-voltage cutoff; hard or soft cutoff; on or off brake; timing (low for normal motors, high for outrunners); throttle response (linear or logarithmic).

Speed controller: As expected, I had to enlarge the hole for it, but it was just a matter of hacking away at the foam. Once I got it to fit nicely, I covered it with strapping tape and a think layer of foam for extra protection.

The hole for the ESC is quite small, but a couple of minutes of quality time with the hobby knife will make it big enough for the Jeti Advance 12.
 

Receiver: Just like the ESC there's likely to be some digging to be done here, but with an X-Acto knife and a flathead screwdriver, you'll be done in no time. Once you get everything hooked up, do a quick test to make sure the elevons are doing what they're supposed to be doing, and then do the same thing as with the ESC. Tape and a little bit of foam, and it won't be going anywhere any time soon.

Alas, the hole is also to small for the receiver, especially one as relatively bulky as the AR6000 from Spektrum. A smaller one may fit just fine.
 

Battery: Here's where it gets a bit trickier. I believe the Swift was designed to be used with NiMH packs, so the hole is rather small, and none of my 800mAh batteries would fit in there, so I cut it to fit.

The other problem I found, and one I had to do something about, was the lack of a battery hatch. I was obviously going to be belly landing this plane, and I didn't want to smash my LiPo after a couple of flights.

A simple solution I cobbled together was cutting a small piece of plywood the size of the battery hole, lining with foam, and then attaching some tape and small piece of velcro. Voila! I had a five-minute battery hatch.

There's plenty of foam-cutting to be done at the front of the plane, as a LiPo surely won't fit in the original hole. But my Common Sense RC 2S 800mAh battery eventually fit there. My LiPo, out in the open and exposed to the elements? No, thanks. Instead, I created a simple battery hatch with plywood, tape and a piece of Velcro tape.
 

And, with that, the electronics are all in place.

Completion

The only thing left to do is to protect the plane. I went the happy medium route and took care of the leading edges with some strapping tape, and then I put a couple more straps across both the top and the bottom of the fuselage to help with flexing during flight.

Frankly, I don't think the cross-wing straps help out much in terms of rigidity, and I would rather see a thin strip of carbon fiber included in the kit. Then again, they do help make the whole plane a bit sturdier.

I also put a couple of small pieces of tape on the trailing edge. You never know what a broken prop could do to your foam.

And so, after attaching the winglets to each edge, the plane was complete. All that was left to do was wait for a good day to fly — quite the tall order in January, unfortunately.

Strapping tape, while not the most aesthetically pleasing feature of the plane, does help with preventing in-flight flexing of the wings. From ripping the bag open to gluing the winglets, the Swift II can be put together in a matter of hours.
 
Tape, tape and more tape: Not only does it protect all the electronics, but it also helps with protecting the airframe during all those belly-landings — and rough landings, too.
 

Flying

The AUW, amazingly enough, came in below the recommended specs: a nice 9.5 ounces, a half-ounce below the 10-12 ounces mentioned in the instructions. The CG was spot-on as well, so there was no need to rearrange the furniture.

But, would the Swift fly just as easily as it came together? The opportunity finally came, and I was off to the field to put it to the test.

Taking off and landing

There's a technique to launching a pusher-prop flying wing. Well, I'm sure there are many techniques out there, but I have a favorite: the "don't chop your fingers off while you're tossing this plane" launch technique. It may not be the best out there, but at least I'm still typing this article with all 10 digits.

This is how I do it (and, for the record, I'm right-handed): I grab the leading edge of the wing near the winglet with my right hand while holding the throttle stick with my left hand. Then, I start doing a frisbee-toss-like move, and as I get ready to toss the plane, I throttle up. I let go of the plane once it's pointing straight ahead, and at that point it should dip a bit at first yet start to catch speed and gain altitude right afterwards. It's that simple just as long as you keep your hands of the rapidly spinning propeller.

For landings, just let it glide (and glide and glide and glide) in. Remember that this is a flying wing, so it will want to glide eternally, and if you don't start your approach from way back yonder, you'll end up overshooting your landing spot.

I personally don't use the brake feature on my ESC (which, in my case, creates a bit more drag), so I have to make sure I kill the throttle early on so that the prop will have time to stop before I land. As you belly land (as long as you do so gently and with the prop already stopped) the prop shouldn't break, just maybe lodge itself in the grass.

This is the best way to toss a flying wing and not lose any fingers in the process: Hold it by the wingtip and then throw it like a frisbee. Coming in for a landing? Give yourself plenty of grass-runway room. This wing is quite the glider.
 

Basics

The flying characteristics of this plane are quite gentle, and it's not necessarily an adrenaline rush by any means. I was very surprised at how precisely built it is. Whereas I often have to do some trimming to the control surfaces so it will fly perfectly straight. All it took was literally three clicks of up elevator, since it felt like it wanted to dive a bit. It’s the least I've ever had to trim a plane.

If you can fly an aileron plane, you can most definitely fly the Swift II then. It's responsive yet forgiving, exciting yet not frightening. And, unsurprisingly, it handles wind like a champ so this could very well become your breezy day flyer.

I found myself enjoying flying it at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle, but give it full throttle, and it'll shoot up like there's no tomorrow. Even at half throttle, rolls and loops were most-definitely doable. Kick it up a notch, and the roll rates quickly accelerate, and doing an outside loop is a piece of cake.

Another thing I enjoyed doing was killing the motor and letting the wing just glide its way across the sky. It picks up thermals easily, and even in low passes it would just glide past you and keep on going.

POWER-SYSTEM PERFORMANCE

I had never used Axi motors or Jeti speed controllers on any planes before I began reviewing MSComposit planes — and what a difference these pieces of electronics make.

The power system worked flawlessly. The Axi motor delivers plenty of power, and the Jeti controller is as smooth as it gets. With my Common Sense RC 800mAh, I was able to get more than 10 minutes of flight, and that was playing it conservatively. I probably could’ve been up there for another 3-5 minutes especially if I managed the throttle a bit and tried to glide around the field every now and then.

I was pulling about 10-11 amps at WOT with the 8x6 prop, and that still left me some wiggle room on the electronics should I want to raise the bar for top speed a little bit. Then again, if you use something bigger than an 8-inch prop, you're going to be getting rather close to the elevons. The suggested prop did the trick for me.

The no-frills Jeti ESC is another fine piece of electronics — and it's simple enough to set up via the transmitter (though a programming card is available). It's light, it's reliable, it's a fine piece of work altogether.

This is, in conclusion, a perfect setup for this sort of plane: not underpowered at all, and (like it's at times the case with brushless setups) not overpowered either.

Indeed, the Swift II is a plane for all moods and all conditions.

Low fly-bys — fast or slow — are a hoot with this plane. Even at WOT, it still flies as straight as an arrow. Off goes the Swift. You can easily keep it within a football field-sized flying site.
 
Ten to 15 minutes of fun are the norm for this plane on this setup with a 800mAh battery, and it balances perfectly this way. The Swift II in motion — a fast wing if you want it to, a gently flier if you're in the mood for that.
 

Aerobatics/special flight performance

Well, let's be honest here: You don't have a fuselage or a rudder, so doing a knife edge is out of the questions. However, beyond that, there's plenty of fun to be had all around.

Rolls and loops are the name of the game here. You could do those forever and not get tired of them. The roll rate is not as fast as some of the other flying wings, but it's still decent.

Inverted flight is good, too. After all, the wing is almost symmetrical. You have to be a bit careful though or you might just end up doing an outside loop if you are going a bit too fast and don't apply enough down elevator.

Rolls are a breeze with this plane, quick and crisp. The bottom of the wing is white and bare, but that vast contrast is of great help when you're flying inverted.
 
One thing I've lately found about the Swift II is that it handles wind exceptionally well, therefore making it a nice plane no matter the conditions.
 

Is this for a beginner?

Probably not, since it's a bit of a fast plane. However, I don't have a problem recommending it as a second or third plane. It's forgiving enough that it would get itself out of some hairy situations, but it's still challenging enough that you need to keep an eye on it at all times.

It's durable, too. On the first takeoff, it went straight to the ground. What did I do? Shake some of the dirt off, grin and try to launch it again. No damage whatsoever, and on the second launch I was up, up and away. And yes, I'll come out clean and say it here, too. I crashed it once. The motor mount popped out, and a tiny piece of foam flew out from the trailing edge. Squirt squirt, spray spray, and you couldn't tell them difference. Back to play. So yes, I crashed it like I meant it, and it lived to fly another day.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

Downloads
Type Name
Size
Flying the Swift — will we see how durable this plane is in this video?
26.25 MB

Conclusion

Flying wings, I've determined, are a hoot to fly. I had flown the slope-soaring kind on windy days up on the (not-so-hilly) hills of Alabama, but I had never tried the powered variety. I must admit, I'm hooked, and I have the need for some speed.

A WORD OF THANKS

I would like to thank the following people for making this review possible: Henry Jezek at MSCompositUSA for providing the Swift II, motor, prop adapter, ESC and propeller; Common Sense RC, in particular Jeff Williams, for the LiPo battery; and my wife, Sally, for the fantastic flight photos and videos.

The Swift II satisfies my needs. It's a relatively gentle plane with the option of fast flying, and it's fun to keep it in relatively small quarters and just do loops and rolls until you get tired of it (should that ever happen). It's durable, too, so it will last a while and could even be a good trainer for simple aerobatics.

One of the best things about it is how quickly it comes together, and the recommended electronics don't disappoint one bit. At the field, you'll be in the air when all the other foamies are grounded due to wind, and that, in my book, is recipe for some serious fun.

Pluses:

  • Fantastic design and paint job
  • Extremely durable (even the paint job)
  • Included hardware, such as pushrod connectors, is a nice touch
  • Great flying characteristics — slow-flying when you want it to, adrenaline-rushing when you feel like it
  • Recommended electronics package works like a charm.

Minuses:

  • Holes for electronics need to be enlarged, especially the one for the battery.
  • There's no battery hatch — a must for LiPo safety on a plane that's supposed to belly land.
  • Including a CF rod (or simply rope that could be stiffened with CA) for making the wing more rigid would be a plus, plus a nice way to showcase the great paint job even more.
Last edited by Angela H; Mar 08, 2008 at 08:13 PM..
 
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Old Mar 05, 2008, 11:30 PM   #2
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Nice Review Napo. The Swift II Wing flies great. Looks steady and easy to land.
Mike McD
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Old Mar 06, 2008, 09:52 AM   #3
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Great job, Napo! And I like the B-2 reference, my Dad worked on the B-2 program

Ronnie
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Old Mar 06, 2008, 11:35 AM   #4
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Thanks Mike and Ronnie -- I appreciate the compliments!

Mike: It's quite steady, indeed. I took it out the other day and set both elevons a little higher -- now it's even more stable, and inverted flight is a lot smoother, too.

Ronnie: Do you think you dad could get me a good deal on one, then? Really, that's really cool that he got to work on it -- thank him for his service, it sure is one fine aircraft!
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Old Mar 06, 2008, 02:39 PM   #5
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Another great review and could not agree more, those Delta wings fly superb. I have the mini and just ordered the full size swift. MScomposite is the best.
John
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Old Mar 06, 2008, 02:47 PM   #6
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John,

Thanks for the kind words. I've never seen the mini-Swift in action, but if it flies like the full-size one, you're in for a treat. What kind of power system will you be using?
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 11:09 AM   #7
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Nice review! I powered mine a little differently and am very impressed with it. I have seen a MiniSWIFT and was not dearly as impressed as I have been with the 4-5 different SWIFT II's Ive seen. I'd like to see the MaxiSWIFT ...


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Old Mar 07, 2008, 11:33 AM   #8
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Thanks DB! It's indeed a sweet-flying machine.

I'd like to see the Maxi Swift in action as a slope soarer or a DS plane... now that'd be interesting. I bet it'd perform well. I've thought of taking my Maxi for some slope-soaring before...
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 04:52 PM   #9
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Great review Napo.. I just picked up the Swift II and the mini at my LHS.

Hey John... I have a mini and am trying to figure out the power system for it.. What do you have in yours?
Mark
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 05:02 PM   #10
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Thanks mthomas, I think you're going to have some fun with this plane. What power setup are you thinking of putting in it?
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 05:19 PM   #11
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Not sure about the power yet.. on the bench right now, I have an E-Flite 370 outrunner and a couple of 400Xt outrunners from HL.. I am not all that great at understanding kVs, prop size and the weight of a plane.

Suggestions..
Mark
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 05:47 PM   #12
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Mark,

You don't want to go with a prop prop much bigger than 8 inches -- mainly because you don't have room for it.

As far as motors, the Park 370 is a bit less powerful than the one I used, but it should work well. I have more than enough power to spare in mine.

The 400XT is such a versatile little motor that it would probably work well, too.
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 07:19 PM   #13
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Okay.. so it is easy enough to swap out the two motors once everything else is set. What about batteries, sounds like a 2S 1300 and up is fine.. what about a 3s pack of less maH? I have a few 3s 800 maH packs that I use in the Mini Slinger. Would the higher output but less voltage change anything?

Mark
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 07:44 PM   #14
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Yes, it should be rather easy. The motor is held to the motor mount via two screws, so it's just a matter of swapping it.

2S batteries are fine, but you might do OK with the 3S on the Park 370, actually. See how it balances, too -- it could be a tad on the heavy side...

I use a 2S 800mAh and it balances perfectly.
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Old Mar 07, 2008, 07:52 PM   #15
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Well then.. we are getting hit with a ton of snow today and tonight, so I guess that I know what I am doing tomorrow. I will start with the 370 and 2S and go from there.

On another note, have been reading about how people are putting their equipment on top of the wing instead of the pre-molded pockets? Why not just build the wing upside down.. painted side down, white side up and just use the pockets. The wing is symmetrical so I don't see a problem with that.. thoughts?
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