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Looks great. Glad you like it!
Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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OK Al, I got my lights for my F-22 Night Fighter! I'm going to give you and James a run for your money.
![]() Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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I just hope that when I'm done the added weight won't cause any issues.
Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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Been having a blast with this thing. Here's a little video my buddy put together. This was on a 2S. Had my first crash today due to a servo failure.
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Sorry to hear about your crash. What servos are you using?
Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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Finally got my night flyer done!
Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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Looks good Al! Looking forward to doing some night flying this year at the Jolt.
And BTW, I'll have 3 rx-ready planes for sale there too for $125 each. ![]() Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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Well, what I use are the HXT500s. They seem to be a little tougher than DS75's or HS-55's. I once crashed an F-22 three separate times before finally stripping a servo on a particularly hard pancake landing.
And thanks on the lights comment. I've already got people asking me to build them one with lights. ![]() Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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Here are the lights I used:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8944 You can get them in 5 different colors; White, Red, Green, Blue and Yellow. The only color I didn't use on the plane was yellow. Those are 1 meter strands, and each group of 3 lights has a built-in resistor on the strip, and they can handle direct connections to 12v. What I did was lay out my lights in sections using a multiple of 3, so I had sections of 3 lights, 6 lights, 9 lights, etc. Between each section of 3 lights is a copper contact strip. You can cut the lights right on the divider and then solder them back together using 22ga wire. There is a + and - printed right on the strip so that you always know what the correct polarity is. And as far as I know, you can daisy chain as many lights together as you want. To power the lights, I just connect them right to the balance tap, and they are always on. I did it this way to save weight. However, you can buy controllers as well to use as an on/off switch. Here's what HK offers: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...f_Switch_.html http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...d_Switch_.html So for mine I just purchased a female Hyperion balance tap connector (since I use Hyperion lipos) and do a direct connect for always on lights. For other battery brands, all you need to do is get the proper female tap connector for your particular brand of battery. as for weight, my normal plane with paint and decals and a Hyperion 3S 850 comes in at 6.8 ounces. The unpainted night flyer comes in at 7.8 ounces, so the whole system only added one ounce of weight. With 10 ounces of thrust, she should still fly very well. Plenty well enough for night flying. ![]() It was a little tedious cutting and measuring and soldering up all the light strips, but I think the end result was well worth the effort! And let me say, this is the first time I've worked with these lights, and it really is a simple process. For the past few years I'd been too intimidated by al lthe neat lighting setups I've seen on other planes, but this was so simple to do I wish I had done it much sooner. Pat |
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Latest blog entry: Nico Hobbies
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