|Jan 02, 2008, 12:03 PM|
The Nirvana Yacht Thread
(3/1/2013) Sad but true...the Nirvana is currently out of production. But...there are thousands of these boats out there...she is almost indestructible and will continue to be around for a long time to come.
Also be advised that there are lots of spare parts available though sail.rc...just give Steve a holler and he will hook ya up...Crash
GREAT NEWS...........word is a big shipment (800 boats plus spare parts) is on they way...hopefully to be here by summer 2014 or sooner.
NOTICE NOTICE NOTICE
Event: 2014 Nirvana North American Championship
Date: July 18-20, 2014
Location: St James, North Carolina
Host Club: St James Plantation Model Yacht Club.
For more information go to the host club website:
Posted 5/24/2014 per Club Request:
The Nirvana North American Championships 2014, will be held from the 18th -20th July 2014 at the Seaside Pond, Oceanic Drive, St James Plantation, Southport, North Carolina
Entry forms with all details, including hotels and Sailing Instructions are available from:
Hotels fill up fast around here as we are a resort area.
Since starting this thread back in 2008, it has grown into the huge repository it is today. Here you will find the most helpful group of guys, best/biggest source of Nirvana information available anywhere and information about many other aspects of RC boating to include setting up marks/buoys, rescues and other items of interest to the posters.
There is only so much that can said about a ready to sail boat, one that doesn't allow much room for modification, and much of the sucess of this thread is because of the rabbit trails that keep things interesting. Many of us have formed close friendships and enjoy the side bars...it is what has kept this thread alive while most just die out. This is just to let you know what you're in for...relax and read the whole thread, it's like a good book and well worth the investment of time.
Nirvana II Racing Class Sailboat
Construction: Composite low drag hull design with removable racing keel and ballast bulb
Sails: Constructed of Polyester film that will outlast and out perform all others, designed to withstand up to 20 knot (23mph, 37kph) winds, jib features lightweight boom and adjustable clew tension
Mast: Rigid carbon fiber with quick release foot for portability
Keel: Ballast bulb racing style features quick release
Servo: Heavy duty, metal geared sail winch type
Radio Compartment: Self sealing for water tightness
Rudder: Large area, deep water type
Beam (Width): 7.75"
Sail Area: 525"
Sailing Speed: 6 knots (7mph, 11kph)
Top Wind Speed: 20 knots (23mph, 37kph)
Radio Range: 1500' (457m)
Class One Design Racing Rule (2012 rules from http://sailrcnirvana.com/Racing_Rule.html)
International Racing Rule
The radio controlled Nirvana was designed and engineered for production by Jon Elmaleh in 2003. Nirvana is produced by Megatech International Inc, hereinafter referred to as the builder.
The Nirvana is a One-Design class model sailboat whose specifications are regulated by the builder to insure uniform performance and quality control worldwide. This rule only pertains to those owners who wish to race their boat.
SECTION A - FUNDAMENTAL RULES STRUCTURE
A.1 One-Design Clause - The primary purpose of this class rule is to regulate all Nirvana sailboats throughout the world, used for racing, to be equal in all characteristics that affect performance.
Modifications -No modification, removal, or additions shall be made to any manufactured boat part unless it is specifically detailed in this document.
Manufactured Standard -Only boat parts manufactured by the builder (OEM) shall be used. (Hull, Keel, Rudder, Mast, Booms, Hatches, Cockpit seats, Sails)
IRCNCA - International Nirvana Class Association
RRS - Racing Rules Of Sailing
MT - Megatech International- licensed builder
ISAF - International Sailing Federation
NA - National Authority
English - The official language of the class is English and in case of dispute over translation the English text shall prevail.
Clarification -the word "shall"" is mandatory and the word "may" is permissive.
A.3 Authority - The builder is the final authority for the terms and wording of this rule.
Rules Committee- - The builder may appoint a rules committee of knowledgeable boat owners. This committee shall advise the builder on rules issues raised by owners.
Owner Input - Any class boat owner, or group of owners, may propose a rule change, or rules discrepancy, to the Rules Committee for consideration. The Rules committee may propose such rule changes to the builder.
Legal Responsibility - Neither the ISAF, nor any NA, nor any recognized measurer is under any legal responsibility with respect to these class rules for accuracy of measurement, and no claim arising from them will be entertained.
Certificate - No measurement certificate is required, however, boats are subject to inspection by the race committee at any time during a regatta or series to determine compliance with these regulations.
SECTION B – ORGANIZATION
B.1 Administration of the Class
Country or Regional Class Secretaries shall be appointed by the builder, or may be elected by a vote of class members when a sizeable, builder recognized, organization is formed in that particular country/region.
Communications - Communications to class members on class business shall be by web site, national affiliation publications and email where available.
SECTION C - AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS
C.1 Electronic Equipment
Servos - No servo shall be modified electronically or mechanically from its factory default performance torque, speed and travel. However, other servos may be installed as long as their performance factors are not greater than listed below:
Sail Servo - Max torque in oz/in = 122/153 (4.8v/6.0v); Speed = .24/.20 (4.8v/6.0v) Only arm winches are authorized
Steer Servo - No restrictions.
On-Board Batteries - Nirvana on-board electronics shall be powered by either 4 ea alkaline AA cells (6 v), or 4 ea NiCad/Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable AA cells (4.8 v).
Antenna - The receiver antenna may be installed in any manner.
C.2 Hull & Deck
Hull Finish - The hull may be repaired, sanded, filled, and painted as long as the hull shape is not modified from the original in any way.
Hull & Deck Decoration - Any means of decoration is suitable - self-adhesive letters, tape, decals, or paint, may be used on the deck and hull.
Bow Bumpers - Class legal bow bumpers may be required by local authority for any competitive sailing. There is only one class legal bow bumper.
Drain Holes – Drain holes may be installed in the bow or stern for draining the hull.
C.3 Underwater Appendages
Keel and Rudder - The keel fin and bulb, and the rudder may be sanded and painted. The shape of the keel and rudder shall not be changed in any way. No filet is authorized where the keel fin enters the ballast or the hull.
Rigging Lines - Lines used for mainsheet, jib sheet, outhauls, halyards, topping lifts, downhauls, boom vang, stays and shrouds may be of any material deemed suitable by the boat owner.
Booms - Standard booms may be shortened for better clearance but sail dimensions of the standard sails may not be altered. Additional sheet adjustment holes may be added to the boom. Alternate fittings for sail attachment and adjustment may be installed.
Fasteners - Clips or hooks of any kind may be used to fasten lines but should be of closed design so they do not catch rigging of near-by boats.
Mast Head Fitting (Crane) - The mast head crane may be drilled to provide alternate backstay attachment positions.
Gooseneck & Boom Vang Fittings - The gooseneck and boom vang mast fittings shall be used, however, the gooseneck swivel and the boom vang mechanism may be altered or substituted. The location of boom fitting, for the boom vang, shall not be changed.
Jib Swivel Fitting - The jib swivel deck fitting shall not be moved. The swivel, itself, may be of any configuration and length, and the location of the attachment point on the jib boom may be adjustable.
Topping Lifts - Topping lifts may be fitted to main and jib booms.
Down Hauls - Downhaul lines may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Halyards - Halyards may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Sheet Exit Hole - The location, size and shape of the exit hole in the electronics compartment starboard wall, through which the sheets pass, may be modified.
Sheet Attachment to Boom - Sheets may be attached to the boom by any fittings or method.
Shroud Rail Fittings - Shroud attachment fittings, and location on the rail, are optional, but shall be no further aft than 17" measured from the front of the toe rail to the eye of the fitting, measured along the toe rail.
Wind Vanes & Tell Tales - Any type of wind direction indicator may be attached to the top of the mast, and tell tales may be used on the sails at owner's discretion.
C.5 – SAILS
Attachments - Wind Flow indicators may be attached to any point of the sails and may be made of any material.
Repair - Sail damage may be repaired as long as repair does not stiffen or alter the size of the sail.
Sail Numbers - Nirvana sail numbers are a specific size, color and font and are located on the sails as specified in the Sail Number addendum attached to these rules.
Sail Graphics - Sails may be decorated using decals, tape or markers, but such markings shall not interfere with easy identification of the sail numbers or the class logo. Sail decorations may not significantly stiffen or change the shape/size of the sail.
Class Logo - The font, size, and location are as designated on the Sail Number addendum, when adopted.
Grommets - Grommets may be installed at any location on the clew, tack, or head, of either sail, however only one grommet at each corner of the sail may be used at one time.
Battens - Battens are optional, but if used shall be positioned, and be of the same dimensions, as on the standard OEM sails.
D. MISCELLANEOUS RACING RESTRICTIONS
Crew - The crew shall consist of one person, but may be more with special permission of the Race Committee.
E. PENDING RULE CHANGES
Minimum Weight - A minimum weight shall be determined. As soon as the appropriate investigation is complete, a suitable minimum weight will be designated. In the interim, all boats will sail with all original equipment on board except for those exceptions listed in C. above.
Sails - Smaller sails are being designed and tested to determine suitability for heavy weather sailing.
A couple more helpful hints:
1.) File down and round off the holes in the booms where the sheets enter and exit, these are very sharp and will quickly fray your sheets.
2.) Add a small piece of stiff plastic to cover the electronics. Place this shield under the sail servo arm and above the rudder arm. This will prevent things from tangling on the sail servo arm.
3.) Add a small slice of sponge under the sheets where they enter the inside of the electronics compartment. The sheets should rub on the sponge to remove water as it tries to enter the compartment with the sheets.
4.) Make sure all your knots are tight...a small amount of glue will prevent them from untying.
5.) A rubber bow bumper will save damage to your boat when you hit a stone wall and/or other boats in a collision. It will happen to you...I promise!
Link to a good source of information on the Nirvana:http://sailrcnirvana.com/
Link to our Club that sails Nirvanas: http://www.orgsites.com/al/montgomer...lub/index.html
Link to the MMBC report here at RC Groups:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772876
Definitions of Terms
Starboard Tack and Port Tack
A boat is on starboard tack when her windward side
is her starboard side. Conversely, a boat is on port tack
when her windward side is her port side. Normally, this
is the side opposite the one the main boom is on. When
racing, you are always on either a starboard tack or a
port tack, even while in the act of tacking or gybing.
The boat that is upwind from the other boat.
The boat that is downwind from the other boat.
Changing to the other tack by turning the bow toward
Changing to the other tack by turning the bow away
from the wind.
Changing course towards the wind. Very commonly
applied to the action of a leeward boat changing course
toward the wind and toward a windward boat.
Changing course away from the wind. Also called:
laying off, bearing away and bearing off.
Clear Astern, Clear Ahead, Overlap
A boat is clear astern of another when her hull and
equipment is behind a line abeam from the aftermost
point of the others hull and equipment. The other boat
is clear ahead. An overlap exists when neither is clear
astern or when another boat between them overlaps
A boat is “close-hauled” when she is sailing upwind
and as close to the wind (as much into the wind) as possible.
Also called: on a beat or beating to windward.
The area inside of an imaginary circle drawn around
the mark, with a radius equal to four boat lengths.
The course mark that is usually between the two
reaching legs. Normally, gybing from one tack to the
other is part of rounding this mark.
Head to Wind
The point at which the bow of the boat is directly
into the wind.
Fetching the Mark
A boat is “fetching the mark”, when she can continue
to sail on the tack she is on, make the mark and
round it on the required side.
An imaginary line, from the windward mark, along
which a close-hauled boat can sail and pass the mark on
the required side.
Sailing by the Lee
Sailing downwind with the main boom on the same
side of the boat as the wind is coming over.
Being on the same tack as the other boat, and sailing
on her leeward side and slightly ahead.
A course a boat would sail to finish as soon as possible
in the absence of the other boats referred to in the
rule using the term. A boat has no proper course before
her starting signal.
Mandatory: you must do it.
Having the physical or mental ability to do it.
Having the option of doing it.
The application of your ability to see what is going
on around you (wind, current, boats, etc.), and process
that information spontaneously (within the context of
the rules) to be on the right part of the race course, at
the right time, in the right place relative to other boats
and the wind, so as to effectively implement your race
BASIC RULES OF RACING
Here are some very basic printable rules (in Word Format under the pics) everyone should know and the Nirvana Manual in PDF format (at end of post):
|Jan 03, 2008, 07:12 AM|
This is the Vixen Information Post.
This is the starting point for the Vixen. Below you will find the information as I get it on this new yacht.
Here is what we know so far:
Jon Elmaleh (who designed both RC Laser and Nirvana - as well as a number of other great boats) really out did himself with Vixen. Even Jon was surprised that the boat was so "right" from the first time it got wet.
Steve Lang of sail.rc is the builder. Rumor has it that this 34" RTR boat will be in the $350.00 range, it is a US built boat and options (with/without radio etc) will be available.
Here is the latest on the VIXEN as of 5/1/2013.......go to post 8942 to read Steve Langs post....I attached the latest pics taken at this years Geezer Regatta.
And here is a video taken by our own Captain Wild Bill at the 2013 Nationals (click on the HD button if you can stand the slower download) :
|Jan 03, 2008, 07:50 AM|
Wow...quick reponse from Steve...
...here it is Dude:
"This sail material (polyester film) is difficult to flatten once it has been wrinkled/creased. Thus, you must always caution everyone to store the sails carefully and flat.
You will gain some success from ironing with the iron on steam. Place a towel over the sail and iron the affected area. Never touch the sail with the iron itself. I am afraid of the hair dryer but will try it out on some messed up sails I have here.
You need to hang in there on sails for now as we do not have any and Megatech tells me now that we will not get any spares in our next shipment #$%^&.
The best line for sheets is the string brand name Spectra. It is not easy to find. However you can find another product I use called Dyneema at http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/...upplies07.html - Item 310 is strong enough. One roll of this will take care of your whole fleet.
Hope this helps. Steve"
|Jan 03, 2008, 12:34 PM|
Great pics! Love the Kingfisher bumming a ride.
I use 35lb Berkley Gorilla braided dyneema line. Very thin and tough. The single biggest issue I had with my stock boat was drag on the sheets, which often prevented the sails from letting out all the way when running in light wind. I made some changes to my blocks which combined with the new sheets rectified the problem. I've also fabricated a new boom vang and main boom pivot (replaced the gooseneck with a ball joint). Radio box mods of course as well. Three coats of Meguiar's Tech Wax and the hull is just super slick....a fresh coat on regatta day naturally.
Hip tip: removing the "seats" and outer radio box cover/hatch saves 2.3 oz!
I'll get some pics of the "Sea Ya!" and her mods up asap.
|Jan 06, 2008, 08:11 AM|
Here are a few pics of some mods and new paint.
|Jan 06, 2008, 08:19 AM|
i really like the position of the sponge. do the sheets rub on it? if so does it restrict sheet movement any? very ingenious idea with the sponge.
|Jan 06, 2008, 08:35 AM|
Thanks for the compliment on the idea, but it was not my idea...I borrowed it too!
|Jan 06, 2008, 12:34 PM|
Cheap sail protector.
Here is my poor mans version of a sail protector. It's cardboard with duct tape around the edges held closed with cheap metal paper clips. It's made it through a whole season already.
|Jan 18, 2008, 12:31 PM|
AMYA Update & Upgrades
First the latest news on the new Nirvana Class of AMYA boats per Mr. Steve Lang is "the paperwork (Constitution, Bylaws, Class Rule) are all submitted to the AMYA Exec Secy for approval. I expect to get the go ahead any day. Then I will field an email vote of all AMYA members that are registered Nirvana owners to get the required approval of the Class Owners Association I am setting up. So I am hoping all will be in order by the end of this month.
We are already scheduled to be the feature model in the fall issue of Model Yachting"
Cool...the feature in the Model Yachting Magazine.
Ok...after some frequency interference problems this past Sunday causing my Nirvana to run aground, I decided to upgrade the electronics. I have a 2.4Ghz Specktrum DX6 due for delivery today. I went ahead and upgraded the sail servo while I was in there to the Hitec HS 645 MG. I will post pics as soon as I can of this upgrade.
Here is some info regarding two shortcomings of the DX6, information from this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802850 Thanks John!
You can either upgrade the battery for longer life (what I am doing) or upgrade the voltage regulator or both. There is a link for that here. http://www.dimensionengineering.com...pektrum_mod.htm
The other weakness of the dx6 is the antenna at the pivot joint. You can either have on hand replacement antennas available here http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...?ProdID=SPM6810 or install a wireless router rubber duckie type, or you can do what is becoming a trend, take off the antenna and install it inside. Follow this link and scroll half way down. http://www.anderswallin.net/
I will try the internal antenna idea and post results here too.
I also plan to test 2 boats off one transmitter simultaneously. I want to see if I can use the tug to rescue my Nirvana using the same transmitter without the Nirvana accepting the same inputs the tug gets. This should be interesting and I started a thread on this here:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=803244
|Jan 18, 2008, 03:02 PM|
Joined Jan 2005
Dx6 for sailboats
Regarding using the same transmitter for two boats... Thats one thing that makes the DX6 so cool. Lets say your Nirvana gets becalmed. You simply grab your tug, change the selection of model on your DX6 to the next thing for it to control and it links with just that receiver, no other. Besides that, your pre set points for just that model are now engaged and it becomes just like that has been the sole transmitter of that boat alone. Good way to limit number of transmitters needed. Thats why the fly boys love it, so they can switch between the tons of planes they always have.
Good luck with it,
|Jan 19, 2008, 06:51 AM|
the other fix for the antenna problem on a dx6 is to get a 6" section of rubber hose that fits snuggly around the base of the antenna. the extra length is stiff enough to alert you that the antenna is against something. poof no more problem. a few of the sailors at my pond do this.
|Jan 19, 2008, 08:53 AM|
I got the new electronics installed. I tried locating the new AR6000 receiver in every possible manner and decided to place it as shown. The fitting in this spot is very tight, but works. The orientation of the antennas was the deciding factor in location and as you see in the photos they are oriented in the recommended 90 degrees from each other.
1. First I drilled a hole for the wiring to come up through between the rudder servo and receiver.
2. I very carefully trimmed the edges of the receiver down to the seams (but not to the point of breaking the factory seal) on the fore and aft edges and corner to give the smallest possible package to fit in the confined space. Even after trimming the receiver, it still needs to be moved just ever so slightly to be able to remove the battery tray. If you added a charge plug this would not be a concern.
3. I added Velcro to the bottom of receiver. The Velcro allows the receiver to be moved/removed very easily and it to move up just enough off the servo tray to help with battery removal.
4. I taped the antenna wires with scotch tape to the sides of the radio compartment as shown.
5. I took the pin protector that came on the receiver and cut it down to cover the remaining 4 sets of unused pins. I also sealed the holes in the top on the protector with silicone sealer. This is probably unnecessary as the receiver is in a very good location to avoid water damage unless the boat basically sinks.
6. I replaced the sail servo with the Hitec HS 645 MG. This required modifying the servo arm as noted in the first post in this thread.
One final modification to report. I noticed that the sheets were exiting the radio compartment at such an angle as to rub on the exit hole and cause fraying and friction to the sheets. I solved this by drilling a new hole aft of the original as seen to allow for a straight shot to the first fairlead.