Discussion Official Nirvana Yacht Thread

[Hoghappy]

The Nirvana Class Racing Yacht will soon become popular not only because of it's price and good sailing characteristics, but because the rules are being finalized for submission to AMYA. One Nirvana II fleet is now over 80 boats. The class is soon to be an official AMYA class of boats....so...let me once again bring this great little entry boat to light. At 32" she is one of the smaller sailboats, but a pretty good starting point at under $200.00, ready to sail, radio and all.


Nirvana II Racing Class Sailboat


The Ready to Run Version (RTR) is Regatta ready in minutes, just plug in the mast and ballast. Clip on sail rigging and install radio batteries. Available in 3 colors, Red, Blue and Yellow. (Also available in a race version at a higher cost with upgraded electronics preinstalled "Blue only", or in a version without electronics at a lower cost, "Blue only".)

FEATURES:

Construction: Composite low drag hull design with removable racing keel and ballast bulb

Sails: Constructed of Polyester film that will outlast and out perform all others, designed to withstand up to 20 knot (23mph, 37kph) winds, jib features lightweight boom and adjustable clew tension

Mast: Rigid carbon fiber with quick release foot for portability

Keel: Ballast bulb racing style features quick release

Radio: FM 2-channel fully proportional with sail winch control self-centering rudder stick and sail trim stick, both sticks have center trim adjustment

Servo: Heavy duty, metal geared sail winch type

Radio Compartment: Self sealing for water tightness

Rudder: Large area, deep water type

INCLUDES: Megatech Nirvana II Sailboat with 2-channel FM radio, sail winch servo, all linkages and sheet lines full adjusted and pre-centered, wooden stand, decal sheet instruction manual

REQUIRES: AA Batteries: 12 each, 8 for transmitter, 4 for receiver

SPECS:
Length: 32"
Beam (Width): 7.75"
Height: 64"
Weight: 5.5lbs
Sail Area: 525"
Sailing Speed: 6 knots (7mph, 11kph)
Top Wind Speed: 20 knots (23mph, 37kph)
Radio Range: 1500' (457m)

Approximate Cost: $189.00 (plus batteries)

Sail Servo Trouble:

One of the biggest problems with this boat has been the weak sail servo. I've had no trouble with either of our boats and they are tested by everyone that walks up to us at the park; however, here is some help on the subject borrowed from another Nirvana Club site: http://www.fleetracing.net/index.cfm?fleet_id=19

Replacing the arm of the servo:

Taking the arm off the sail servo can be a concern when the springs fly out of the middle of it. There are two springs in the arm’s hub that are a hold over fromwhen they used a weaker servo than they use now. They are known as servo savers. It is the impression of Steve Lang that they are not needed any more so if you lose the springs here is what you do. Find a disc that comes with a new servo or ask around someone may have an extra. You may have to trim around the outside to allow it to fit into the arm hub, then use epoxy to glue it in there.

Stripping gears means you have to replace the servo:

Damon had a problem with his sail arm servo on Sunday. The gears stripped on it and he has to buy another. The reason, I think, is that the mainsheet tension was too tight. The servo was not allowed full swing. In the sheeted in position the servo could still have swung about a half inch more. He was letting a kid sail his boat who did not understand that when the sail is in it does not have to be pulled in constantly, but the adjustments were too tight anyway. The servo is capable of pulling about 138 inches of torque, which is more than the gears in it will take, apparently. Make sure that the sheets are not tight like guitar strings when the sail is all the way in.

How will he have to replace the servo? I told him that a nice replacement is the HiTec 645 MG sail servo (about $40). It will drop right into the mount when he takes the old one out. He will have to cut the wire and install a plug to the receiver. The best thing to do with the sail arm is to use the new white plastic round piece that comes with the servo and shave down the sides so it will fit into the old sail arm. Then glue it in, West Systems Epoxy works well as John found out. Rough everything up with course sandpaper to make sure you get good contact.

I just did some research and found some other servos that would be appropriate for the task.

Model Torque 4.8/6.0 Size Weight HobbyPeople Servo City Tower Hobbies
HS-625MG 76.37oz/94.43oz 1.59"x0.77"x1.48" 1.94oz. $40 $36
HS-645MG 106.93oz/133.31oz 1.59"x0.77"x1.48" 1.94oz. $40 $36
HS-965MG 111.08oz/138.86oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $70 $73 $70
HS-985MG 144.42oz/172.20oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $70 $73 $70
HS-5625MG 109oz at 4.8vlt 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $55 $50
HS-5645MG 143oz/168oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $55 $50
HS-5965MG $90
HS-5985MG 144.42oz/172.20oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" $90 $90
HS-5955TG 249.96oz/333.29oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $115 $114 $110
HS-5998TG 199.97oz/249.96oz 1.57"x0.78"x1.45" 2.18oz. $115 $114 $115
Cirrus 704MG 181oz/195oz 1.6 x .78 x .61" 1.73 oz $30
Cirrus 750MG 127oz/149oz 1.6 x .78 x .61" 1.93 oz $25
Cirrus DS751MG 149oz at 4.8vlt 1.6 x .78 x .48" 1.93 oz $25
Cirrus 701 126oz/144oz 1.6 x .78 x .61" 1.58 $20

The Hitec 645MG is the recommended replacement for the sail servo if it goes
bad. As you can see by the chart is about 107 oz/inch torque for $40. For $70 you can increase the Torque by about 40% with the Hitec 985MG. For $115, and why would we spend that much you can increase the torque 2.5 times with the 5955TG. Another alternative is to get the Cirrus, which is okay, not as good as Hitec I am sure. But for $30 you can get The Cirrus 704MG with 181 oz/inch of torque. Damon said that you will have to use some washers to install this as it is just a bit taller than the 985MG.

RC Nirvana
Class One Design Racing Rule (proposed rules from http://sailrcnirvana.com/Racing_Rule.html)


08/01/07


This class one-design racing rule is designed to establish uniformity in the Nirvana class on all features that affect boat speed. The boat as manufactured is the base boat, any modifications must be approved in this rule.

The radio controlled (RC) Nirvana was designed and tested by Jon Elmaleh of Out There Technologies for Peter Winston of Megatech, Inc, the builder (manufacturer).

The RC Nirvana is an international One-Design class regulated by the builder to insure strict performance uniformity worldwide.


SECTION A - Fundamental Class Racing Rules Structure


A.1 One-Design Clause - The primary purpose of these class rules is to regulate all RC Nirvana boats, used for racing, to be equal in boat speed.


A.1.1 Modifications - Any modifications to the Nirvana, as manufactured, not specifically permitted by these class racing rules is PROHIBITED.


A.2 Abbreviations


IRCNCA - International RC Nirvana Class Association


RCNCA- NA - RC Nirvana Class Association - North America


RRS - Racing Rules Of Sailing


ISAF - International Sailing Federation


A.3 Authority - These racing rules are established and maintained by the builder and, as such, are independent of any owner or organization.


A.3.1 Lobby for Change - Any individual, or group of RC Nirvana owners, may lobby the builder to change these class racing rules via their governing class secretary/president.


A.4 Language


A.4.1 Official Language - The official language of the class is English and in case of dispute over translation, the English text and meaning shall prevail.


A.4.2 Terminology - The word "shall" is mandatory and the word "may" is permissive.


A.5 Uniformity


A.5.1 Supplier - All Nirvana parts, (Hulls, keels, rudders, spars and sails) shall be manufactured by the builder in accordance with the RC Nirvana original performance design specifications.


A.6 Class Racing Rules Interpretation


A.6.1 Conflict - Any discrepancy or conflict in interpretation of these regulations shall be referred to the builder via the governing class secretary/president.


A.6.2 Authority - Worldwide interpretation of these rules shall be made by the builder. All competitive events sanctioned by the RC Nirvana class must follow the builder's interpretation of these rules.


SECTION B - ORGANIZATION


B.1 Administration of the Class


B.1.1 Hierarchy - The builder may assign the administration of the class by continent, country, or region.


B.1.2 Advisory Committee - The builder may appoint an advisory committee to advise on racing rule changes.


B.2 Identifying Numbers


B.2.1 Assignment - Hull and sail numbers shall be designated by the class secretary in each defined area of the world (North America, Europe, Australia, etc). Any boat entering competition outside home club sailing must be registered with their class secretary and receive their number assignment.


B.2.2 Attachment - Boat numbers shall stay with the boat. Upon a transfer of ownership, the class secretary shall be notified.


B.3 Amendments to Class Rules


B.3.1 Proposing Amendments - Amendments to these class rules shall be proposed to the builder, via class secretary, for consideration.


B.3.2 Responsibility - It is the responsibility of all racing sailors to understand the class rules and and keep up to date.


B.3.3 Dating - If a word, clause, sentence or paragraph of this rule is changed, the date of the chance shall appear at the end of that paragraph. Explanations of changes will appear at the end of this racing rules document.


SECTION C - CONDITIONS FOR RACING


C.1 Equipment


C.1.1 General - Unless specifically authorized by these class rules, only hulls, sails and other items of equipment manufactured by the builder shall be used. No addition or alteration may be made to any part of the boat as manufactured, except when such alteration or change is specifically authorized by these class racing rules. See list of authorized modifications at end of this document.


C.1.2 Limitations - Except in cases of authentic damage or loss, not more than 1 hull, 1 set of sails, 1 set of standing rigging, 1 keel, and 1 rudder shall be used during a race or series of races.


C.1.3 Unusable Parts - Damaged or worn parts must be replaced by parts supplied by the builder and shall be installed as were the original parts.


C.1.4 Sail Numbers - All sails must be marked with the authorized size, font and color sail numbers and placed as designated on the official sail plan. Hull numbers are not required. See specifics in Modification/Clarifications section at end of this rule.


C.2 Crew - The crew shall consist of 1 person, but may be more with special permission by the Race Committee.


C.3 Minimum Weight - A minimum weight for a race-ready boat shall be established as soon as a standard is formed. If a boat weighs less than the minimum weight, weight will be added to the electronics compartment to bring the overall weight up to minimum.


C.4 Certificate - No measurement certificate is required, however, boats are subject to inspection by the race committee at any time before or during a regatta, or series, to determine compliance with these regulations. Exchangeable parts may be marked by the race committee to confirm compliance.


SECTION D - SPECIFICATIONS FOR RACING


D.1 - HULL AND UNDERWATER SURFACES


D.1.1 The hull, rudder and keel maybe smoothed and painted. No reshaping of any part is authorized, to include the exit slot in the hull for the keel.


D.1.2 Bow Bumper - A class approved bow bumper must be installed on the stem of the boat to protect other boats in case of a collision.


D.1.3 Special additives - No sloughing or emulsifying agents may be applied to underwater surfaces. Wax is authorized.


D.2 - RIGGING


D.2.1 Spars - Damaged or worn spars and spar fittings shall be replaced using parts supplied by the builder and shall be installed as was the original. See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.2.2 Running Rigging - Lines used for sheets, outhauls downhauls, halyards, and boom vangs may be of any material deemed suitable by owner. See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.2.2.1 Sheet Attachment - The main sheet and jib sheet shall attach to their respective booms through, or to, the hole in the booms provided by the builder.


D.2.2.3 Sail & Rigging Adjustments - Rigging of out hauls, down hauls, halyards, topping lifts, and boom vangs is to the owners discretion. See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.2.3 Standing Rigging - Either wire or line may be used for standing rigging (shrouds and stays). See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.3 - SAILS


D.3.1 Official Sails -The sole sail maker shall be the builder. The Nirvana logo shall appear near the head of the sail and shall not be covered.


D.3.2 Attachments - Wind Flow indicators may be attached to any point of the sails and may be made of any material. See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.3.3 Repair - Sail damage may be repaired. Sail repairs shall be made only with plastic or cloth-backed tape. Sail dimensions shall not be altered by repairs. Any repair to a sail for the purpose of increasing stiffness is not allowed.


D.3.4 Sail decorations - Sails may be decorated using decals, tape, paint or markers, but such markings shall not interfere with easy identification of the sail numbers or the Class logo.


D.4 - ELECTRONICS


D.4.1 RC Electronic Equipment - Electronic equipment, to include Transmitters, receivers, switches, battery holders, crystals, and servos may be changed or altered. See change dated 8/01/07 at end of rule.


D.4.2 Batteries - Batteries used must be AA cells, either alkaline, NiCad, or NiMH. Lithium batteries are not authorized.



Modifications/Clarification to Racing Rules as of 12/1/05

The following rules modifications, additions, and subtractions are in affect on this date.

C.1.1 Equipment - The following modifications/clarifications are recognized by this regulation:
Line or wire fasteners of any type may be used at the ends of line or standing wire rigging.


The antenna may be installed any way desired. It is not recommended to run the antenna along wire or carbon fiber (mast).


Electronic equipment may be relocated as long as all components remain in the electronics "cockpit".


A drain hole and plug may be installed in the bow or stern to drain water from the hull.


Topping lifts are authorized on both main and jib booms.


Keel ballast plastic housings may not be removed. Replacements for damaged housings are available.


Modifications/Clarification to Racing Rules as of 8/1/07

D.2.1 - The gooseneck fitting and the lower boom vang fitting may be changed to any type fitting that provides the same function in the same location.

D.2.1 The masthead fitting may be drilled to attach the backstay further forward. No restrictions are applied to this connection.

The main boom may be shortened to allow better clearance of the backstay. No minimum is yet established.

D.2.2 The fairleads for the sail sheets may be moved or reoriented but no new moving (roller) fixtures may be added or used to replace existing fittings.

D.2.2.3 Topping lifts may be installed on the aft end of either the main or jib boom. The jib boom may not be weighted.

D.2.3 The rail fitting to which the shrouds are attached is optional. A substitute fitting may be placed in any location on the toe rail no further aft of the forward edge of the toe rail than 17" (measured along the toe rail).

D.3.2 A downhaul may be attached to one point at the tack of the mainsail and attached to the boom, gooseneck or mast in any manner the owner chooses.

D.4.1 The sail servo may not exceed 120 oz. in. torque rating at 4.8 volts. Only sail arm winches are authorized.

A couple more helpful hints:

1.) File down and round off the holes in the booms where the sheets enter and exit, these are very sharp and will quickly fray your sheets.

2.) Add a small piece of stiff plastic to cover the electronics. Place this shield under the sail servo arm and above the rudder arm. This will prevent things from tangling on the sail servo arm.

3.) Add a small slice of sponge under the sheets where they enter the inside of the electronics compartment. The sheets should rub on the sponge to remove water as it tries to enter the compartment with the sheets.

4.) Make sure all your knots are tight...a small amount of glue will prevent them from untying.

5.) A rubber bow bumper will save damage to your boat when you hit a stone wall and/or other boats in a collision. It will happen to you...I promise!

Links

Link to a good source of information on the Nirvana:http://sailrcnirvana.com/

Link to our Club that sails Nirvanas: http://www.orgsites.com/al/montgomer...lub/index.html

Link to the MMBC report here at RC Groups:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=772876

C. Slick

[doomracing]

outstanding

i got my nirvana in the beginning of dec. it's the first version though, but at $87 delivered i don't mind. all the radio gear is coming out anyhow. it will find it's way to evil bay, and pay for new servos.

only problem with it is the sails got some creases/bends in them. can i iron them out flat, or will that shrink up the mylar? if it will shrink the mylar how can i remove them? i may have to just do a reverse bend, and hope for the best, or buy new sails.

[Hoghappy]

Hey doom...I fired off that question to Steve Lang of http://sailrcnirvana.com/ as he is the best source I know of for the boats and information about them. I also asked about recommended replacements for the sheets.

Steve told me before the holidays that he hoped to get the Nirvana sanctioned as a class boat with AMYA sometime this month...that should help its popularity and give us more boats to race with.

I plan to get some pics taken of the internals and placed here soon to show the simple modifications I have made to make this a more reliable and fun boat.

Fair winds to ya Dude!

C. Slick

"Weevils....the breakfast of iron men sailing wooden ships!"

[Hoghappy]

...here it is Dude:

"This sail material (polyester film) is difficult to flatten once it has been wrinkled/creased. Thus, you must always caution everyone to store the sails carefully and flat.


You will gain some success from ironing with the iron on steam. Place a towel over the sail and iron the affected area. Never touch the sail with the iron itself. I am afraid of the hair dryer but will try it out on some messed up sails I have here.


You need to hang in there on sails for now as we do not have any and Megatech tells me now that we will not get any spares in our next shipment #$%^&.


The best line for sheets is the string brand name Spectra. It is not easy to find. However you can find another product I use called Dyneema at http://www.midwestmodelyachting.com/...upplies07.html - Item 310 is strong enough. One roll of this will take care of your whole fleet.


Hope this helps. Steve"

C. Slick

[SkidBreaker]

Great pics! Love the Kingfisher bumming a ride.

I use 35lb Berkley Gorilla braided dyneema line. Very thin and tough. The single biggest issue I had with my stock boat was drag on the sheets, which often prevented the sails from letting out all the way when running in light wind. I made some changes to my blocks which combined with the new sheets rectified the problem. I've also fabricated a new boom vang and main boom pivot (replaced the gooseneck with a ball joint). Radio box mods of course as well. Three coats of Meguiar's Tech Wax and the hull is just super slick....a fresh coat on regatta day naturally.

Hip tip: removing the "seats" and outer radio box cover/hatch saves 2.3 oz!

I'll get some pics of the "Sea Ya!" and her mods up asap.

[Hoghappy]

Here are a few pics of some mods and new paint.

[doomracing]

i really like the position of the sponge. do the sheets rub on it? if so does it restrict sheet movement any? very ingenious idea with the sponge.

[Hoghappy]

Originally Posted by doomracing

i really like the position of the sponge. do the sheets rub on it? if so does it restrict sheet movement any? very ingenious idea with the sponge.

In the pics the sponge was left to dry with a weight on it to flatten it when it dried. I usually wet the middle part of the sponge just before I sail to make it expand and contact the sheets to allow it to wipe them as they pull in water. This also makes the sponge soft at that point. NO...it will not have any noticeable effect on the performance if you use a thin strip of sponge.

Thanks for the compliment on the idea, but it was not my idea...I borrowed it too!

C. Slick

[Hoghappy]

Here is my poor mans version of a sail protector. It's cardboard with duct tape around the edges held closed with cheap metal paper clips. It's made it through a whole season already.

C. Slick

[Hoghappy]

First the latest news on the new Nirvana Class of AMYA boats per Mr. Steve Lang is "the paperwork (Constitution, Bylaws, Class Rule) are all submitted to the AMYA Exec Secy for approval. I expect to get the go ahead any day. Then I will field an email vote of all AMYA members that are registered Nirvana owners to get the required approval of the Class Owners Association I am setting up. So I am hoping all will be in order by the end of this month.

We are already scheduled to be the feature model in the fall issue of Model Yachting"

Cool...the feature in the Model Yachting Magazine.

Ok...after some frequency interference problems this past Sunday causing my Nirvana to run aground, I decided to upgrade the electronics. I have a 2.4Ghz Specktrum DX6 due for delivery today. I went ahead and upgraded the sail servo while I was in there to the Hitec HS 645 MG. I will post pics as soon as I can of this upgrade.

Here is some info regarding two shortcomings of the DX6, information from this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802850 Thanks John!
You can either upgrade the battery for longer life (what I am doing) or upgrade the voltage regulator or both. There is a link for that here. http://www.dimensionengineering.com...pektrum_mod.htm
The other weakness of the dx6 is the antenna at the pivot joint. You can either have on hand replacement antennas available here http://www.horizonhobby.com/Product...?ProdID=SPM6810 or install a wireless router rubber duckie type, or you can do what is becoming a trend, take off the antenna and install it inside. Follow this link and scroll half way down. http://www.anderswallin.net/

I will try the internal antenna idea and post results here too.

I also plan to test 2 boats off one transmitter simultaneously. I want to see if I can use the tug to rescue my Nirvana using the same transmitter without the Nirvana accepting the same inputs the tug gets. This should be interesting and I started a thread on this here:http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=803244

Capt. Crash

[John Ebell]

Regarding using the same transmitter for two boats... Thats one thing that makes the DX6 so cool. Lets say your Nirvana gets becalmed. You simply grab your tug, change the selection of model on your DX6 to the next thing for it to control and it links with just that receiver, no other. Besides that, your pre set points for just that model are now engaged and it becomes just like that has been the sole transmitter of that boat alone. Good way to limit number of transmitters needed. Thats why the fly boys love it, so they can switch between the tons of planes they always have.

Good luck with it,

John

[doomracing]

the other fix for the antenna problem on a dx6 is to get a 6" section of rubber hose that fits snuggly around the base of the antenna. the extra length is stiff enough to alert you that the antenna is against something. poof no more problem. a few of the sailors at my pond do this.

[Hoghappy]

I got the new electronics installed. I tried locating the new AR6000 receiver in every possible manner and decided to place it as shown. The fitting in this spot is very tight, but works. The orientation of the antennas was the deciding factor in location and as you see in the photos they are oriented in the recommended 90 degrees from each other.

1. First I drilled a hole for the wiring to come up through between the rudder servo and receiver.

2. I very carefully trimmed the edges of the receiver down to the seams (but not to the point of breaking the factory seal) on the fore and aft edges and corner to give the smallest possible package to fit in the confined space. Even after trimming the receiver, it still needs to be moved just ever so slightly to be able to remove the battery tray. If you added a charge plug this would not be a concern.

3. I added Velcro to the bottom of receiver. The Velcro allows the receiver to be moved/removed very easily and it to move up just enough off the servo tray to help with battery removal.

4. I taped the antenna wires with scotch tape to the sides of the radio compartment as shown.

5. I took the pin protector that came on the receiver and cut it down to cover the remaining 4 sets of unused pins. I also sealed the holes in the top on the protector with silicone sealer. This is probably unnecessary as the receiver is in a very good location to avoid water damage unless the boat basically sinks.

6. I replaced the sail servo with the Hitec HS 645 MG. This required modifying the servo arm as noted in the first post in this thread.

One final modification to report. I noticed that the sheets were exiting the radio compartment at such an angle as to rub on the exit hole and cause fraying and friction to the sheets. I solved this by drilling a new hole aft of the original as seen to allow for a straight shot to the first fairlead.

Capt. Crash

[doomracing]

i take it you have/had a paradise? i see a aquacraft servo.

[doomracing]

where did you get the bow bumper?