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Old Dec 28, 2007, 05:49 PM   #1
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Darth's "Heavy B" Blackhawk

Ok, Ive decided to do a blackhawk build and show some pics. The fuselage assembly is prety much straight forward by gluing halves together and or channeling the main body together which is what I Did. I would say the hard part (to me) is making the Chassis platform, which isnt to bad. I tink attaching the landing gear may be a little harder than most. Keep in mind this is making it up as I go. When its all said and done, I do plan on using the King2 frame. Also plan on using the 325mm blades. pretty much the same setup on my 1:18 Apache.
AH-64 Apache.
INFO: It is the Apache body for the T-rex
Chassis: King2
Rotor blades: 325
Gyro: Stock ESKY (Non heading hold)
Tailrotor: AXE CP motor and tail blade
Battery: 2200 12C 3S 11.1V
Main motor: ESKY Brushless
Servos: Stock King2 8Gs
Reciever: Stock King2
ESC Main motor: BL Dynam 30 Amp
Tail motor ESC: Brushed GWS ICS 300E
Flying: Divine
See pics of the Apache Here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789828 (Post #15)
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Old Dec 28, 2007, 08:57 PM   #2
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Heres some progress pics.
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Description: Main body halves: I made the windows so that they are removable(when I wet ready to paint. The blue covering is the protective plastic over the clear plastic. Peel it off on both sides and it leaves the clear plastic. Main body halves: I made the windows so that they are removable(when I wet ready to paint. The blue covering is the protective plastic over the clear plastic. Peel it off on both sides and it leaves the clear plastic. 72.8 KB · Views: 386

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Description: Showing interior. Made a track system out of the styrene to allow the windows to be removed. Showing interior. Made a track system out of the styrene to allow the windows to be removed. 66.8 KB · Views: 297

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Description: The lower chassis plate
made from 1/8 lite plywood 9" long and 4 1/2" wide The lower chassis plate made from 1/8 lite plywood 9" long and 4 1/2" wide 97.1 KB · Views: 184

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Description: Upper Chassis plate This is what the helicopter chassis will mount to. 5" long x 2 3/8" wide
Height is about 3/4" in the rear and 1/2" in the front Upper Chassis plate This is what the helicopter chassis will mount to. 5" long x 2 3/8" wide Height is about 3/4" in the rear and 1/2" in the front 80.6 KB · Views: 166

  • Name: PDR_1220.jpg
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Description: Bottom of upper chassis plate Bottom of upper chassis plate 82.0 KB · Views: 151

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Description: Upper and lower chassis plates screwed together Upper and lower chassis plates screwed together 92.1 KB · Views: 198

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Description: Bottom of chassis plate showing screws installed from the bottom holding on the upper chassis plate Bottom of chassis plate showing screws installed from the bottom holding on the upper chassis plate 31.4 KB · Views: 152

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Description: T-rex shown temp mounted on chassis plate. Note some forward tilt built into the chassis plate. T-rex shown temp mounted on chassis plate. Note some forward tilt built into the chassis plate. 39.9 KB · Views: 555

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Description: Chassis plates installed Chassis plates installed 46.3 KB · Views: 242

  • Name: PDR_1221.jpg
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Description: Bottom of the main fuselage. Notice I made a channel feature on the left side of the main fuselage. The right side of the fuselage fits into the channel and is held together by the temporary masking tape pieces. Small screws can be installed or clear tape Bottom of the main fuselage. Notice I made a channel feature on the left side of the main fuselage. The right side of the fuselage fits into the channel and is held together by the temporary masking tape pieces. Small screws can be installed or clear tape 50.6 KB · Views: 242

  • Name: PDR_1228.jpg
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Description: Four small screws secures chassis plate to the bottom of the main fuselage. Once this is done, you really do not need tape or screws to hold the bottom of the fuselage together. Four small screws secures chassis plate to the bottom of the main fuselage. Once this is done, you really do not need tape or screws to hold the bottom of the fuselage together. 39.5 KB · Views: 210

  • Name: PDR_1222.jpg
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Description: Upper main fuselage. Better pic showing the channeling. Upper main fuselage. Better pic showing the channeling. 61.5 KB · Views: 296

  • Name: PDR_1216.jpg
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Description: Tailboom, Note mounting screw flange. Makes tailboom install easy and just in case, replacement will be easier also.   Tailboom, Note mounting screw flange. Makes tailboom install easy and just in case, replacement will be easier also. 84.7 KB · Views: 310

  • Name: PDR_1229.jpg
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Description: Tailboom secured by four screws, two on each side. Tailboom secured by four screws, two on each side. 36.3 KB · Views: 280

  • Name: PDR_1230.jpg
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Description: Nose section secured using four screws, two on each side. This also makes accessing the battery easier for charging and removal. Nose section secured using four screws, two on each side. This also makes accessing the battery easier for charging and removal. 37.3 KB · Views: 365

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Old Dec 28, 2007, 08:59 PM   #3
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So Far weight of entire fuselage and chassis plate 240 grams
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Old Dec 28, 2007, 09:12 PM   #4
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more pics
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Description: Blackhawk body is pretty nice size Blackhawk body is pretty nice size 55.0 KB · Views: 843

  • Name: PDR_1234.jpg
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Description: Landing gear Main rear strut made out or 1/8 music wire. Front strut made from 3/32 music wire. The two pieces are copper wire wrapped and then covered with JB Weld. 1" lite foam wheels. (weight of fuselage now with landing gear 267 grams (next to fi Landing gear Main rear strut made out or 1/8 music wire. Front strut made from 3/32 music wire. The two pieces are copper wire wrapped and then covered with JB Weld. 1" lite foam wheels. (weight of fuselage now with landing gear 267 grams (next to fi 44.2 KB · Views: 493

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Old Dec 28, 2007, 09:44 PM   #5
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To get that strut look on the landing gear, you can wrap masking tape around the music wire. Another Idea is using different size fuel tubing.
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 11:23 AM   #6
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Did some more work on the main landing gear
Made a couple of braced "L" brackets and used a 1/8" landing gear strap to hold the gear on the bracket. Once the desired height is obtailed. I will glue in some stops above the main gear wire on the "L" bracket. Bracket was CA glued to the bottom chassis plate.
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 11:44 AM   #7
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Love your helis. Can't wait to see the Blackhawk finished. If I can ever quit crashing so often I would like to build a heli using one of your bodies. :-)

Brian Bland
Claremore, Ok
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 04:08 PM   #8
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Looks great, Darth! A couple of questions: Is there any particular reason you're using a King instead of a Trex or Belt CP? Can you post plans for the chassis and landing gear?
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 05:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinookmark
Looks great, Darth! A couple of questions: Is there any particular reason you're using a King instead of a Trex or Belt CP? Can you post plans for the chassis and landing gear?
No real particular reason for using the King2, the T-rex, MX 400,450, Belt Cp, Revo, all will work. I like the king2 and I find it easy to work with, actually more economical. The king2 is a lighter frame and because Im using a motored tail driven tail rotor, I will not be using the tailboom. If you go the same route I go in this build, you will loose the tail boom also on any of the other frames too. Im gonna try to make chassis platform specs available.
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 05:24 PM   #10
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Front strut covers:
I made these out of scrap plastic. Pretty easy to make.
The front of the strut swings out to allow for the removal of the nose section and it swings back in place after installation.
I may try to eventually mold the covers if I can do so without them webbing on me.
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 07:51 PM   #11
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Tailwheel completed
I made the tailwheel strut from Plywood and I kinda rounded the edges. I also installed a lite ply plate in the tailboom and the landing gear plate is screwed to it.
Im soon to be ready to install the tailmotor and the Chassis and the soon a test flight or two before I paint fuselage
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Old Jan 01, 2008, 03:46 PM   #12
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Tail motor installed. I even added the offset angle to it. I also removed the King2 chassis from the Apache and installed it into the blackhawk. Its extremely windy outside right now so I did a test hover in my living room. So far all is A-ok. Seeing I only have about a 5 x 5 feet space to hover. I managed to pick the heli up about 2 feet. It handle real well. I cant wait now until the winds outside die down. As a note, i noticed that its not going to be a problem taxiing this on the ground.
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Description: The Guts The Guts 49.0 KB · Views: 588

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Old Jan 02, 2008, 08:56 PM   #13
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Quasied semi scale quad tailrotor (Dont laugh, it works) Still to windy and real cold. Did more living room hovering today
One thing I have noticed about using the electric tail motor, is that I can adjust the pit to allow for a slower rotor and more pitch without affecting tailrotor control. Suppose to be getting into the 60s weather wise in a couple days. I may have to try some running landings. Today it was 30 degrees
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Old Jan 02, 2008, 09:17 PM   #14
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Running landings. That would be cool! You are just trying to convince me to build one of these aren't you! :-)

Brian
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Old Jan 05, 2008, 12:03 AM   #15
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Took Blackhawk out for a flight today. wasnt able to get any pics and it was getting dark. Slight breeze but it flew better than a Pod and Boom heli. It flies very scale like On a slow lift off to a hover, the front wheels come off the ground before the tailwheel. Looks very realistic. As the heli goes into fwd flight, the heli levels off nicely just like the real hawk. I did one running landing on blacktop road. Touch down was nearly a three point touchdown with the tailwheel contacting a split second before the main gear. Its something to experience because of the rolling motion. The four blade tailrotor performed great. I had no wild swinging at all. I really didnt time the flight because I wasnt flying on a full battery. I did some test hovering with it a day or so ago in my living room. Hopefully I'll get some inflight pics soon.
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