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Old Aug 23, 2012, 01:04 AM
Rangers Lead the Way
Joined Mar 2010
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Just as a reminder to me - assuming I use a Scorpion 4026/16 or Power 90, would a 7S 5000 in the battery tray location result in a tail-heavy build or nose-heavy? What I'm really trying to determine is whether I can run a Eflite 10-15 e-tract as a tail-wheel without needing nose weight if I use the stock battery tray location. I'll be using carbon pushrods with forward-located servos rather than the steel pushrods provided with the ARF.

I've heard this one tends to come out nose-heavy, which I find hard to believe as every warbird build so far has required the batts inside the cowl, ahead of the firewall, to make CG.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 02:41 AM
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Richmond B.C. Canada
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I am using a scorpion S4025-12 with a CC Ice100 mounted under the motor mount. As you can see my 6s 5000mah pack (835 grams) is well aft of the hatch to achieve balance. Both mine and a fellow club members TF P-51's are nose heavy without the batts installed!
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 04:17 PM
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I concur. I'm flying with a 6S 4400 and Rimfire .80 up front and I actually needed some lead in the tail to get it to balance.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 01:58 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
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holy smokes! That's got to be a first for a glo model. You guys have retracting tail wheels?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Just the standard tailwheel on mine. Honestly the couple of ounces in the back is really not an issue. This plane flies beautifully and lands at a walk.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:38 AM
"Fly Low, Fly Fast, Turn Left"
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United States, CA, Red Bluff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 172AMD View Post
I am using a scorpion S4025-12 with a CC Ice100 mounted under the motor mount. As you can see my 6s 5000mah pack (835 grams) is well aft of the hatch to achieve balance. Both mine and a fellow club members TF P-51's are nose heavy without the batts installed!
What's the best way to get in there and open up that battery hatch? Any suggestions or tips?

Thanks
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Richmond B.C. Canada
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Originally Posted by SmokeDogg View Post
What's the best way to get in there and open up that battery hatch? Any suggestions or tips?

Thanks
I used pins pushed through from the inside to identify the perimeter of the hatch on the outside. Then used my OLFA knife( AB blade) to cut the hatch out. Take your time!
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 12:38 PM
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I did similar except i used exacto blade from the inside slid between formers and longerons to cut it out. You have to determine the mating pieces and go between them.
I think i am going to start work again on mine. It's been sitting a while now. I did a "B" conversion so i have to recover and paint.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 04:04 PM
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I got mine all cut out ok. Wish it would have been done from the factory but I totally get why they didn't... Just glad it is an option..

I ordered up a roll of matching monokote so I can re-cover the hatch and wrap it over the edges to clean it up more. Maybe glue on a little balsa on the ends and lap it all in for a clean smooth edge.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 02:58 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
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Thats how I'll do my next hatch. They just don't look clean without the Kote being wrapped. The trick is to leave a wee bit on the fuse side to wrap as well.

I have 2 of the ARFs and will start the build pretty soon, after my Gee Bee R3. I did test fit a set of Eflite .60-120s with the Hobbyking .120 size Mustang oleos (very nice) and they are about as close to a drop in as you can get. I use the smaller size oleos on my .40 H9 sport mustang and they have been great. Only caveat is 3.0 max wheel size.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 05:18 AM
"Fly Low, Fly Fast, Turn Left"
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Got a link to them oleos?
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Old Jan 11, 2014, 01:40 PM
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What spray can paint is there to match the iron on covering of the T/F 60 arf?
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