Originally Posted by GWS4CEO

The new rotor improvement will come with ribs to hold the center hole not to be off-set during cooling out from mold.

Yes, I have a few GWS rotors where the fans are true, but the hub is not. I assumed it was due to uneven cooling. This also explains why some hold up better than others. I just ran one last night to 335W in an EDF64, with no problems. I've blown 55 rotors at 250W.
Also, interesting to note that when a GWS rotor explodes under high power, which I've done, I don't think the blades fail. I believe the hub fails. I've had ones with NOTHING left afterwards.
This improvement should make the rotors capable of higher power levels.

The new rotors designed for high watts had done!

However, too many products cost so much money to run the initial production.

Originally Posted by gws-rc-models.ch

....Just let it dry like that on a flat surface and balance next day with a few drill holes.

how do you go about balancing the rotor after filling the hub with epoxy/balloon mixture? i know you have to drill a few holes to balance it out, but how do you know where to drill the holes and when do you know the rotor is then balanced? thanks!

I use a magnetic balancer like the one on the attached pictures.

It is somwherer around USD 20.00 in your LHS

nice..thanks for the reply...im gonna consider doing this to my a10 edf55 build

You can also recycle your old EPS gears and use your turning lathe to drill out a 7.00mm hole and strip of the teeth down to 25.1mm (when used in a EDF55).

Then you get something like that:

Originally Posted by gws-rc-models.ch

You can also recycle your old EPS gears and use your turning lathe to drill out a 7.00mm hole and strip of the teeth down to 25.1mm (when used in a EDF55).

Then you get something like that:

Oh that looks PERFECT!!!!! Awesome job!!!!

I might consider just using GWS fans from now on if this works.

Originally Posted by GWS4CEO

When rotor center less off-set and weight lighten will make RPM higher, yet less current and vibration.

But the more accuracy demand, the production cost go higher!

For those who have been involved in plastic injection molding, there's a good point here.

GWS rotors are generally molded to acceptable tolerances for our uses. If you took a lot sample, you may find say 10% that could really be a bit better. Please don't argue the numbers here, as its all hypothetical.

Now if GWS wanted to have all 100% at tight tolerances, they would pay a much higher cost to have the manufacturer reject the few severely off-tolerance rotors, and for the most part, the rotors that would pass the QC and be shipped to GWS would not be much better if any, than the rotors GWS already gets from them.

I have literally seen this happen:
You spec no tolerance, but with modern maufacturing you get high tolerance parts (relating to your actual CAD file's dimensions) without paying any additional costs for high tolerance.
You spec tolerance, pay like hell for it, and end up with the same part tolerances that you would get in the first scenario, but just pay twice as much.

The real bottom line here is that the best option for us (customers) would be to simply buy a large lot of rotors, and personally reject the ones we feel are out of tolerance. In the end, the cost would be no more than if we paid for it up front.

Originally Posted by gws-rc-models.ch

I use a magnetic balancer like the one on the attached pictures.

It is somwherer around USD 20.00 in your LHS

Yes, but the first thing to do with this kind of magnetic balancer is
you have to balance those two round plugs and then make sure
the shaft is straight. How do I know? I suffered about
it too much and never used it again

The hanging doesnt matter, but the shaft that was included wasent really straight enough. So I replaced it with a much shorter and hardened 3mm shaft from an outrunner. Just needed to "sharpen" the ends of the motor shaft.

Originally Posted by gws-rc-models.ch

The hanging doesnt matter, but the shaft that was included wasent really straight enough. So I replaced it with a much shorter and hardened 3mm shaft from an outrunner. Just needed to "sharpen" the ends of the motor shaft.

nope, not the hanging but those two little round
plugs that hold the Rotor in the middle of the shaft for balancing.
Mine are horrible unbalanced and why would I bother and waste time
with these craps.

Ah, yes...

One can tell it from just putting them on a flat glass table; they roll on one side...

Originally Posted by gws-rc-models.ch

Ah, yes...

One can tell it from just putting them on a flat glass table; they roll on one side...

He he he...
So the first thing to do with these balancers
is to balance them before you start to use them.

How Ironic!

I just used a GWS "B" gear to insert and CA glue in the rear of the rotor hub of an EDF64 rotor. This is a gear from the 300 series gearboxes. Given that only a few teeth were only slightly damaged, I can say that a new one should should fit right in perfectly.

I am also fully convinced that the hubs are what explode, and not the blades. This should really help dampen vibration and keep the hub together.

Originally Posted by blueplane

He he he...
So the first thing to do with these balancers
is to balance them before you start to use them.
How Ironic!

C'mon, you haven't heard of "Balancer Balancers"?

I'm getting ready to install the EDF64s in my -15 and would love to balance the rotors but I'm missing how to go about getting the rotors onto a balance shaft as the hole through the rotor is quite small? I must be suffering a lapse

Would someone mind offering a brief tutorial on how to balance these rotors?

TIA