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Old May 07, 2008, 08:30 AM
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dude_109's Avatar
Houston, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murdnunoc
Wait till you need a part for your Compy's head and look over to one of your HBFP's. I almost feel guilty and apologise to it as I rip its rotor head off.

I waited on the Compy until I was decent with the HBFP so hopefully, I won't crash as much. As for the 2 HBFPs, one was barebone but I wasn't breaking things on #1 as much so #2 became a flying one too...just missing the 4in1. #1 is supped up with Slomax/m24/DD so it flies pretty sweet. I'll be flying Compy & #1. #2 is stock so may not take to the air again.

By the way, anybody know when HobbyCity will get more Loong Max in stock again? I guess I'll need 3s lipos to fly the Compy. I understand that Loong Max is repackaged in the States by another name but that seller is marking it up almost 50% which almost defeats the low price of that hidden gem...
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Old May 07, 2008, 08:51 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_109
By the way, anybody know when HobbyCity will get more Loong Max in stock again? I guess I'll need 3s lipos to fly the Compy. I understand that Loong Max is repackaged in the States by another name but that seller is marking it up almost 50% which almost defeats the low price of that hidden gem...
Value Hobby in Illinois has been selling the Loong Max batts. The packaging has been switched to the GE Force branding, but the prices, from what I can see, stay the same.

They're having trouble keeping the 11.1V 1300's in stock. Mine just shipped after a 2 month backorder.
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Old May 07, 2008, 09:54 AM
Real wings, RC rotors
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Colorado
Joined Oct 2007
646 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lonelasso
Damn What the heck....make him an offer he can't refuse !! In a pinch, I just chuck it in the chuck and spin it @ 3000 rpm with my Dewalt 18V drill Usually use a blue/red magic marker on the end of shaft...helps see the runout. Good pair of pliers just above the chuck will straighten it right up Then flip it over and repeat ! Or...you could just roll it on concrete and hammer out any bends

-Dave
Hi Dave,

I didn't bend it, I snapped it in 2. I'd take the machinist another, but it's just the embarrassment factor of taking him another and having to tell him how I stupidly broke the first

I'll relate the stupid thing I did. I was thinking I'd just chuck the shaft in my Dremmel and use a hack saw blade to cut it down. Apparently the dremmel chuck does not have a lot of rigidity, or the main shaft fit in there a bit off center or something. At any rate when I spun it up it had a fair amount of runnout and I was noticing that it looked like it was due to flex in the shaft as the runout increased with rpm. Well, my stupid mistake was running the dremmel up to top speed to see how much the shaft would flex, which turned out to be a lot, which then caused the shaft to snap at the main gear pin hole. Just give me a power tool and see what trouble I can get into - LOL

- Doug
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Old May 07, 2008, 03:58 PM
allthingsthatfly.com
GFBurke's Avatar
USA, ID, Meridian
Joined Jan 2007
6,145 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
hmm k I didnt touch anything but its not behaving like finless said it should if it were in HH.

its going back to center after you flick it.
and even during my first flights the nose isnt very planted.
feels more like rate.

the tail started this pulsing after the tear down last night.
I semi think its mechanical rather than electrical but i did rerun the belt as it was the culprit for sure.
but still isnt as smooth as it was.

Unless the gyro was damaged from a crash.. or ya, mechanical.

It was , rock solid as HH tail should ever be and very fast pyro. Even if you trim it , it still comes back to center?
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Old May 07, 2008, 07:17 PM
US Navy AT2 1987-1995
USNAviationjay's Avatar
Houston Texas
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFBurke
Unless the gyro was damaged from a crash.. or ya, mechanical.

It was , rock solid as HH tail should ever be and very fast pyro. Even if you trim it , it still comes back to center?
it was acting like this when I got it.. Looked all over the place and watched the finless videos but not once does he mention how to turn on or off rate vs HH. when he showed how his works in HH with the servo not returning to center right away mine doesnt do that.

did when I set this up on the DX6i does it need to be reset?
its flys well but like a rate.. needing to be fed some trim to stay put.
I'm sure it pyros fast as hell.. i don't have the balls to try it yet.. still doing head in and side in hovers.

not sure what you mean by trim on the rudder/gyro.
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Old May 07, 2008, 07:54 PM
I can drift a heli
maarset's Avatar
USA, CA, Sacramento
Joined Mar 2005
2,365 Posts
If you ground the signal wire from the gyro to the RX it will always be in HH mode. So just plug the signal wire into the RX and have the single wire connect to the ground in the extra channel in the RX.
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Old May 07, 2008, 09:00 PM
allthingsthatfly.com
GFBurke's Avatar
USA, ID, Meridian
Joined Jan 2007
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Isn't that backward?

I never use the yellow signal wire and that defaults to HH.


Idk... I was in HH for me.
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Old May 07, 2008, 10:00 PM
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Lonelasso's Avatar
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Dec 2006
13,752 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20rr
Hi Dave,

I didn't bend it, I snapped it in 2. I'd take the machinist another, but it's just the embarrassment factor of taking him another and having to tell him how I stupidly broke the first

I'll relate the stupid thing I did. I was thinking I'd just chuck the shaft in my Dremmel and use a hack saw blade to cut it down. Apparently the dremmel chuck does not have a lot of rigidity, or the main shaft fit in there a bit off center or something. At any rate when I spun it up it had a fair amount of runnout and I was noticing that it looked like it was due to flex in the shaft as the runout increased with rpm. Well, my stupid mistake was running the dremmel up to top speed to see how much the shaft would flex, which turned out to be a lot, which then caused the shaft to snap at the main gear pin hole. Just give me a power tool and see what trouble I can get into - LOL

- Doug
Gotta be careful with power tools man...you'll put your eye out ! Last vid I saw was you flying the MX 400...quite well I might add I've got one also....although it's not really an MX now More like a Mtrex It was flying so well...until yesterday Guess it's kinda like a light bulb that burns really bright before it goes out ? So...during the rebuild, I've stretched the tail ! Should be able to turn 325s now

-Dave
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Last edited by Lonelasso; May 09, 2008 at 08:48 AM.
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Old May 07, 2008, 10:24 PM
Registered User
Fremont, CA
Joined Jul 2007
250 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
it was acting like this when I got it.. Looked all over the place and watched the finless videos but not once does he mention how to turn on or off rate vs HH. when he showed how his works in HH with the servo not returning to center right away mine doesnt do that.

did when I set this up on the DX6i does it need to be reset?
its flys well but like a rate.. needing to be fed some trim to stay put.
I'm sure it pyros fast as hell.. i don't have the balls to try it yet.. still doing head in and side in hovers.

not sure what you mean by trim on the rudder/gyro.
Since you're runing DX6i, I assume its programming should be very much like DX7, which is what I have. You can switch befween HH or rate mode using the Tx. You'll have to do the following:
1. Plug the yellow wire from the gyro to the gear channel. Make sure the wire goes to the 'ohm' pin.
2. Set Aux2->Aux2 and Gear->Gear in the input select menu.
3. Set the travel adjust for the gear. + value for HH, - value for Rate. This is to set the gain of the gyro via the TX for HH and Rate mode.
4. Turn the gyro's gain to 0. Fineless video is oppsite. You can try both setting.
5. Adjust subtrim/rudder in the subtrim menu if there's drifting.

With this setting, you should be able to use the Gear switch the switch between HH and Rate mode on the fly.

Hope this hlep.

- Thomas -
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:04 AM
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jamesppp's Avatar
Georgia, USA
Joined Jan 2008
3,770 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20rr
Hi Dave,

I didn't bend it, I snapped it in 2. I'd take the machinist another, but it's just the embarrassment factor of taking him another and having to tell him how I stupidly broke the first

I'll relate the stupid thing I did. I was thinking I'd just chuck the shaft in my Dremmel and use a hack saw blade to cut it down. Apparently the dremmel chuck does not have a lot of rigidity, or the main shaft fit in there a bit off center or something. At any rate when I spun it up it had a fair amount of runnout and I was noticing that it looked like it was due to flex in the shaft as the runout increased with rpm. Well, my stupid mistake was running the dremmel up to top speed to see how much the shaft would flex, which turned out to be a lot, which then caused the shaft to snap at the main gear pin hole. Just give me a power tool and see what trouble I can get into - LOL

- Doug
Dan, I have an old Dremel tool. My dad bought it before they even made a variable speed model and it has a seperate "pot" box to control speed. The Dremels that I sold at my hardware store from aroung 1985-1989 were pretty good tools.
The old tool had a double stacked bearing at the output shaft. The 80's models had a nice flanged bearing there.
When the "big box stores came along and started selling Dremel products, like a lot of other products, they started cutting corners, making them to Wally World specs...etc.
I burned up up a supposedly top of the line cordless model(mechanical speed control) a couple of years ago, grinding clearance for a taller cam lobe profile in a cam bearing boss on the aluminum motor case of my Harley.I took the POS apart to see what the problem was. Not only was there no output bearing, but the "bushing" was made from a piece of 1/4" od polyethelene tubing. The cheap, 5 a foot, milky white tubing that used to be used for ice maker lines in refridgerators. With this junk, as soon as you put any side bearing pressure on the shaft it just burns off the poly. Come on, at least put a bronze 10 bushing or Delrin plastic. A lot of hand held power tools made to meet a Wal-Mart price point lost thier bearings to cheaper alternatives. I hate junk tools.
Sorry for the OT rant....
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:11 AM
that's gonna leave a scar
KCinNC's Avatar
United States, NC, Mooresville
Joined Aug 2007
3,550 Posts
anyone know of a main belt gear/pulley that will replace the Compy ?...i'm building a second from extra parts..i forgot to order the main gear with the pulley from aero-fever...
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:31 AM
US Navy AT2 1987-1995
USNAviationjay's Avatar
Houston Texas
Joined Mar 2008
1,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whto
Since you're runing DX6i, I assume its programming should be very much like DX7, which is what I have. You can switch befween HH or rate mode using the Tx. You'll have to do the following:
1. Plug the yellow wire from the gyro to the gear channel. Make sure the wire goes to the 'ohm' pin.
2. Set Aux2->Aux2 and Gear->Gear in the input select menu.
3. Set the travel adjust for the gear. + value for HH, - value for Rate. This is to set the gain of the gyro via the TX for HH and Rate mode.
4. Turn the gyro's gain to 0. Fineless video is oppsite. You can try both setting.
5. Adjust subtrim/rudder in the subtrim menu if there's drifting.

With this setting, you should be able to use the Gear switch the switch between HH and Rate mode on the fly.

Hope this hlep.

- Thomas -
K Tom thanks.
I'm gonna have to try to figure out what that all means.
specially step 2 and 3..
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:56 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
245 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinNC
anyone know of a main belt gear/pulley that will replace the Compy ?...i'm building a second from extra parts..i forgot to order the main gear with the pulley from aero-fever...
I have one, check your PM
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Old May 08, 2008, 01:07 PM
Registered User
Fremont, CA
Joined Jul 2007
250 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
K Tom thanks.
I'm gonna have to try to figure out what that all means.
specially step 2 and 3..
No problem. I got my help from the forum numerous time. Here's a more detail description of step 2 and 3. Forgive my repeated wording. I'm afraid I may forget how to program the tx.

Here is step 2:
1. Goto Model Select menu by pressing DOWN/SELECT button at the same time then turn on the TX.
2. Press DOWN until gets to the INPUT SELLECT menu
3. Set AUX2-> AUX2 and GEAR-> GEAR. Don't set any of these to Gyro. That only works for 7ch reciever. AR6100 is 6ch.
4. Exit Model Select by pressing DOWN/SELECT button at the same time.
5. We are now at normal display screen

Here is step 3.
6. Goto Function Mode by pressing DOWN/SELECT button at the same time at the normal display screen
7. Use the UP/DOWN button to get to TRAVEL ADJUST menu.
8. You'll see THRO, AILE, ELEV, RUDD. all with xxx%. This is the TRAVEL ADJUST menu.
9. Press the SELECT button to move the -> (right arrow) until it scroll to the next screen of TRAVEL ADJUST menu
10 GEAR will show up. Use the INCREASE/DECREASE button the increase of decreate the % value.
11 + value is for HH mode, - value is for non HH mode.
12. Use the GEAR toggle switch (upper left corner of TX, my TX is the airplane verson) to toggle the -> (arrow) between + or - %

Hope this help.

- Thomas -
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Old May 08, 2008, 05:28 PM
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Lonelasso's Avatar
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Dec 2006
13,752 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCinNC
anyone know of a main belt gear/pulley that will replace the Compy ?...i'm building a second from extra parts..i forgot to order the main gear with the pulley from aero-fever...
KC,
The hdx300 pulley works quite well ! http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=1989
You'll need to watch Finless Bobs vid http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=16105 (Main gear, head and belt install) to understand how to install it. Since I'm using the microheli main gear w/auto-rotation bearing, i had to use an old hdx300 auto-rotation hub and cut a small bushing (2mm) to fit into the pulley to space it between main gear and belt pulley. You'll understand after watching the vid You'll also need to flat spot the shaft for the grub screws.

-Dave
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