So do they rate these things based on the instantaneous current flowing thru the motor leads, or thru a more average measure of current?

It's an average because it depends on the efficiency of the FETs and the amount of heat the circuit board can dissipate. I found you could push a CC PHX 10 to 13Amps before it started to throttle back. I think that's a software limit as it wasn't terribly hot, but it was warm so I took the message and got something bigger...

Will my JR R610M receiver, and JR NES-241 servos, work okay with the compy?

I am trying to use my radio that's just sitting around, with a compy kit, to save some $
JR XF421radio and a R610M receiver, with NES-241 servos

Will it just plug into a Telebee GR304 Headlock Gyro, or do I need some sort of adapter, since they are JR?

Thanks,

Dan

Is it just me or are these Compy's super sensitive to blade and paddle balancing?
If my flybar is not centered perfectly and the wooden blades are off just a tad then
I get that bobbing the compy likes to do. My HBFP was never like this.

I balance the wood blades with a couple of wine glasses.
Should I balance each individual blade too? (Make the blade balance at the half way point of the blade)

The only way I am balancing the fly bar is to make sure it is perfectly centered.
I'll measure from the paddle to the fly bar cage.
Is there a better way?

I have some M-24's coming. Since they are plastic they should hold their balance alot better.

What would happen if I put stock HBFP blades on this bird? I'm not doing anything crazy right now, Just
hovering in all orientations and slow Forward flight and figure eights. I would probably get less stability.
Anyone ever done that? Use stock hbfp blades?

And the last thing.
For the tail I am using a HS-50 hitec servo and sometimes I get a glitch every 4 or 5 seconds.
When flying you can tell your getting the glitch cause the tail would twitch. I do have my GWS RX near
my HDX300 motor. Would that cause glitching?

Also...

The holes in the Compy main shafts are HUGE compared to the jesus pin.
I want to use a bigger jesus pin to make it a better fit. But I want to use
a pin that will snap instantly when the blades come in contact with the ground
or some hard surface. Any ideas?

Confused in Sacramento

Originally Posted by maarset

What would happen if I put stock HBFP blades on this bird? I'm not doing anything crazy right now, Just
hovering in all orientations and slow Forward flight and figure eights. I would probably get less stability.
Anyone ever done that? Use stock hbfp blades?

With the the stock hbfp blades, the headspeed would be reduced because of their pitch. With the decreased headspeed, it would affect tail performance since it needs the speed to hold the tail. If you want to use the hbfp blades, trim about a half inch off the tips and that should help increase the headspeed some. I tried this with some ef sabre plastic blades, similar to the hbfp, and they were very quiet...until I crashed and destroyed the blades. hehe . Good headspeed similar to the wood compy blades.

the only time mine ever "bobbed" was when i tried running one of the Loong max 1300 batteries...it would bounce on the long unsupported battery tray, which caused the Heli to kinda bob....i use the CSRC 1200...steady as can be

Originally Posted by KCinNC

the only time mine ever "bobbed" was when i tried running one of the Loong max 1300 batteries...it would bounce on the long unsupported battery tray, which caused the Heli to kinda bob....i use the CSRC 1200...steady as can be

I'm using 800MAH 3s. But I don't support the battery tray to the frame piece above it where my ESC sits. Hmmmmmm

I use the 1300mAh Loong Max batteries but I don't mount the battery on the long tray either. I use a velcro strap and hang the battery from the little ESC tray in front of the motor. I put a couple of squares of double-stacked double-sided tape on the front of the tray to stop the strap from sliding off. Mounting the battery right there gets my CG just right and I don't have to worry about that bendy battery tray. I have no problems with the battery mounted in this way.

well I ran home for lunch to try out different blades.
Checked the dimensions of the flybar and stuck a piece of hard foam
between the esc tray and my lipo. Then did a velcro strap around the whole thing.
Tried the woodies one more time and
was getting death wobbles. It was a little windy.
Pulled the woodies off and put on some trimmed stock HBFP blades I had laying around.
No wobble what so ever. Of course they were not as nice as the woodies. Not as much lift.
But zero bobbing. Which means I am not balancing my compy wood blades very well.

I think I am going to use these esky blades till my M-24's get here.

Originally Posted by maarset

Is it just me or are these Compy's super sensitive to blade and paddle balancing?
If my flybar is not centered perfectly and the wooden blades are off just a tad then
I get that bobbing the compy likes to do. My HBFP was never like this.

I balance the wood blades with a couple of wine glasses.
Should I balance each individual blade too? (Make the blade balance at the half way point of the blade)

The only way I am balancing the fly bar is to make sure it is perfectly centered.
I'll measure from the paddle to the fly bar cage.
Is there a better way?

I have some M-24's coming. Since they are plastic they should hold their balance alot better.

What would happen if I put stock HBFP blades on this bird? I'm not doing anything crazy right now, Just
hovering in all orientations and slow Forward flight and figure eights. I would probably get less stability.
Anyone ever done that? Use stock hbfp blades?

And the last thing.
For the tail I am using a HS-50 hitec servo and sometimes I get a glitch every 4 or 5 seconds.
When flying you can tell your getting the glitch cause the tail would twitch. I do have my GWS RX near
my HDX300 motor. Would that cause glitching?

Also...

The holes in the Compy main shafts are HUGE compared to the jesus pin.
I want to use a bigger jesus pin to make it a better fit. But I want to use
a pin that will snap instantly when the blades come in contact with the ground
or some hard surface. Any ideas?

Confused in Sacramento

I've found that you've got to swing the woodies slightly forward of the head before you take off. This allows them to 'equalize' It also STOPS the wobble that shows in the skids. Looks kinda like a 'wet dog' shaking the water off (JPC coined this phrase). The M-24's don't suffer from this, but they do spin ALOT faster (motor/lipo work harder...slightly shorter flight time).
As for flybar balance. I've not found an easier way...just do the same as you...measure.
For tail servo...using a tower pro 9G and don't have the glitch problem you described. My 4CH Lightflight RX is at the rear of FP frame...possibly why no glitches.
I've recently found 'the hard way' that using a HBFP control rod as the Jesus pin is BEST if you want brittle and instant breakage for head protection ! I snip off part of the z-bend so it doesn't interfere with the control links and snip off the plastic ball link eyelet and screw it onto the rod to hold in place.
About flybar/control rod interaction with the blades/head. I've noticed that the control rod ends actually hit against the root of the wood blades. This cause binding in the servos and also limits cyclic control. Just need to dremel out a dimple on the blades to relieve the interaction

-Dave

I'm wondering if I have those wood blades way too tight and they are not finding their sweet spot. And I am using a rubber O-ring to keep them snug. I think I should mount them a little less tight and just use some lock tight.

I flew around with those trimmed esky blades and didn't like it one bit. Definitely noticed less stability.

I've just upgraded my cheapo E-Sky 8g cyclic servos to Futaba s3153 digital ones and wow! What a difference! The control and stability of my Compy improved substantially. Easily get 3-5 seconds of hands-free hover. With my battery beyond 50% the heli used to become quite unstable, and now it is so much better, it is stable throughout, just have to push the throttle further! Also, the elevator servo doesn't bind and hit the frame like E-Sky one did. Definitely worth the upgrade.

I just don't get it!
I run my trimmed esky plastic blades on my Compy and I get a wobble bobbing free hover.
No bobbing of the nose.

I then put my compy wooden blades on and I get bobbing. It is pretty much unflyable.

I balanced the wooden blades. They are loose enough to find their sweet spot.

The tips do have some damage and I have epoxyied the ends.

Also now my elevator servo (HS-55) is chattering. Which is a common issue I guess with these servos.

Originally Posted by maarset

I just don't get it!
I run my trimmed esky plastic blades on my Compy and I get a wobble bobbing free hover.
No bobbing of the nose.

I then put my compy wooden blades on and I get bobbing. It is pretty much unflyable.

I balanced the wooden blades. They are loose enough to find their sweet spot.

The tips do have some damage and I have epoxyied the ends.

Also now my elevator servo (HS-55) is chattering. Which is a common issue I guess with these servos.

Do you have the rotorhead stiffener installed? I first ran mine without it because I didn't have long enough bolts; it bobbed like crazy, but when I got bolts that were long enough, I installed the head stiffener, and that solved it.

Yah using the stiffener

hmmm, possibly a cyclic link popped off a ball, or your main shaft is bent? Maybe there is something wierd wrong with the blades themselves; I would try a new set of woodies.