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Old Jun 02, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Lonelasso's Avatar
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
Well I bought phoenix off our classifieds last night. Hope it will fill the gap on the windy days.

not bad 113 bucks with the JR/Spectrum box exactly what I needed.
should be leaps and bounds above Clearview with an Xbox360 controller =D
Smart move Jay

-Dave
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 04:30 PM
heliman, junior grade
nyc
Joined Jun 2007
30 Posts
Sanity Check

Greetings all!

I'm nearly finished with my Compy build (except for the backordered gyro.... ). Can someone give me a quick sanity check: when I hook up the belt and spin the main rotor clockwise (viewed from above) which way should the tail-rotor assembly spin (when viewed from the right side of the bird)?

A couple of other questions:

-The belt tension is adjusted by sliding the boom in and out of the mount, correct? Are there any guidelines that anyone can offer for determining the correct tension?

-The action on my tail pitch slider seems to be a bit sticky. I'm assuming this is a bad thing.... the stickiness seems to be where the collar slides on the shaft. Any suggestions there beyond 'find a a better lubricant'?

Many thanks for any thoughts....
/alex.
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 04:40 PM
I can drift a heli
maarset's Avatar
USA, CA, Sacramento
Joined Mar 2005
2,365 Posts
I believe you want he tail blades to rotate up into the down force of the main blade.
Tri Flow works good for the tail slider. But I'm pretty sure in time you will want to put a Trex tail on it.

Yes moving the tail boom in and out of the frame adjusts the tension. I think you want 2 to 3 mm of belt slop. I usually adjust mine so the main blades move some what freely and the belt won't slip too much when you grab the main hear and try and turn the tail.

You will love this heli
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 05:01 PM
heliman, junior grade
nyc
Joined Jun 2007
30 Posts
Thanks maarset!

I already love this heli! I'm coming from a HBFP and a couple of 4#3's, so this is my first kit and my first belt-driven tail. There was a definite moment of delight as I spun the main shaft for the first time and saw the tail spin; then i realized there are two possible ways to twist the belt, and I might be spinning it backwards

As it turns out, I had it right the first time, and what you described is pretty much what I did to set the tension, so the heli-gods are with me. The gyro gods, OTOH....

Thanks for the reply!

/alex
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 05:18 PM
I can drift a heli
maarset's Avatar
USA, CA, Sacramento
Joined Mar 2005
2,365 Posts
cool!
everyone on this thread is very helpful.
also make sure the tail hub is as far away from the hub as possible.
the only real beef I have about the compy is the weight. It is a pretty heavy bird. But they fly so smooth. Your skill level will jump imediately.

What gyro are you going to use. ?
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 05:39 PM
heliman, junior grade
nyc
Joined Jun 2007
30 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
cool!

What gyro are you going to use. ?
I've been waiting for nearly 3 weeks for Albert to ship the telebee HH gyro. Today I finally emailed him saying I would pay the difference and get the Futaba 401 (which I had previously decided was overkill)... he told me that one is now out of stock, but that the Telebee was back in, and he would ship ASAP. With luck, I could be in the air this weekend.

I also just realized I don't have an appropriate pinion for my ARC 130, but that's a much easier problem to solve, and doesn't involve waiting on packages from HK

I'm not sure I know what you mean about keeping the tail hub as far away from the (main?) hub as possible. Isn't that pretty much determined by the guide-hole on the tail end and the belt tension in the front? Or have I totally misunderstood?

Cheers,
/alex
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 05:46 PM
I can drift a heli
maarset's Avatar
USA, CA, Sacramento
Joined Mar 2005
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When you tighten the set screw on the tail hub to the tail shaft it tightens on a flat spot on the shaft. Once you feel the screw is close to that flat spot on the shaft move the tail hub that the tail blades connect to out as far as possible. Otherwise the tail won't have enough adjustment to hold it's self in a hover.
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 05:50 PM
heliman, junior grade
nyc
Joined Jun 2007
30 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
When you tighten the set screw on the tail hub to the tail shaft it tightens on a flat spot on the shaft. Once you feel the screw is close to that flat spot on the shaft move the tail hub that the tail blades connect to out as far as possible. Otherwise the tail won't have enough adjustment to hold it's self in a hover.
Gotcha. Thanks!
/alex
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 11:56 AM
I can drift a heli
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USA, CA, Sacramento
Joined Mar 2005
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I think I have totally given up on using the M-24's on my Compy.
I am still going to get a reading of the headspeed at hover for one of the users here
once I get some good sunlight. I think M-24's work good on Honey Bee FP's cause they are alot lighter and the head speed is pretty tame. But I find on my Compy it hovers fine with the M-24's but if I goose it a little to get some altitude things go horribly wrong after that. As I get close to almost WOT I get a bad vibration and the tail starts to wag. Probably cause the vibration is affecting the gyro.
If I give the heli a rest and try again it is fine until I head up to WOT again. Tried two different FP heads.
I am doing one rotor head solid link and one O-ring so that might be my issue. Not sure.
My flybar and blades are balanced. Using Trex 450 flybar.
I don't really want to go back to using the Wood Compy blades cause they are not very durable. Right now I am using some trimmed Stock Esky FP blades. They are still pretty stable and I can go WOT and back to hover with out that bad vibration.

What other choices of FP blades are out there that work well with the Compy? I'm really into longer flight times right now because I am still learning Nose In and FFF.
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:07 PM
US Navy AT2 1987-1995
USNAviationjay's Avatar
Houston Texas
Joined Mar 2008
1,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by r0shi
I've been waiting for nearly 3 weeks for Albert to ship the telebee HH gyro. Today I finally emailed him saying I would pay the difference and get the Futaba 401 (which I had previously decided was overkill)... he told me that one is now out of stock, but that the Telebee was back in, and he would ship ASAP. With luck, I could be in the air this weekend.

I also just realized I don't have an appropriate pinion for my ARC 130, but that's a much easier problem to solve, and doesn't involve waiting on packages from HK

I'm not sure I know what you mean about keeping the tail hub as far away from the (main?) hub as possible. Isn't that pretty much determined by the guide-hole on the tail end and the belt tension in the front? Or have I totally misunderstood?

Cheers,
/alex
Alex get the RS4 10 tooth for the Arc130

worked fantastic on mine.
you will LOVE the TB on this little bird they are made for each other.
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Houston, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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maarset,

Don't give up on the M24s yet. I sometimes get vibration on my whether it be on the HBFP or Compy. However, if I advance the blade a little forward from just straight out, even by a couple of degrees, then the heli is smooth. I have my M24s mounted on a HBFP head and it sits very tight in there so not sloppy like the stock HBFP main blades.

Now, I've never taken it to WOT as the little FF I've done, I've only gotten throttle to 66% or so max. My 4500kv motor w/ 10T pinion seems way too powerful even for this hefty Compy. One of these days, when I find an excuse to take the motor off, I'll try to swap out for 9T and see if I get any vibration nearer WOT like you're describing.

Once I get comfortable with this Compy, I'll go back to woodies just to reduce headspeed in a trade for more flight time.
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:14 PM
US Navy AT2 1987-1995
USNAviationjay's Avatar
Houston Texas
Joined Mar 2008
1,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
I think I have totally given up on using the M-24's on my Compy.
I am still going to get a reading of the headspeed at hover for one of the users here
once I get some good sunlight. I think M-24's work good on Honey Bee FP's cause they are alot lighter and the head speed is pretty tame. But I find on my Compy it hovers fine with the M-24's but if I goose it a little to get some altitude things go horribly wrong after that. As I get close to almost WOT I get a bad vibration and the tail starts to wag. Probably cause the vibration is affecting the gyro.
If I give the heli a rest and try again it is fine until I head up to WOT again. Tried two different FP heads.
I am doing one rotor head solid link and one O-ring so that might be my issue. Not sure.
My flybar and blades are balanced. Using Trex 450 flybar.
I don't really want to go back to using the Wood Compy blades cause they are not very durable. Right now I am using some trimmed Stock Esky FP blades. They are still pretty stable and I can go WOT and back to hover with out that bad vibration.

What other choices of FP blades are out there that work well with the Compy? I'm really into longer flight times right now because I am still learning Nose In and FFF.
Dude a HBFP cannot even come close to spinning M24s as fast as they need to be spun for them to be worth while.

I dont think your pinion gearing are set up as well as they should be for high headspeed.
Mine is so smooth it is like a sewing machine at FFF speed. In fact I watch the boom and the head and they are not vibrating at all.

Im running the ARC130I with a 10 tooth RS4 pinion.
and the M24s are so fast and so stable they make it feel like its flying in slow motion when I put Compy woodies on it.
I hover at around 48% and FFF at less than 75% and still have 25% for emergency punches.

you shouldnt be anywhere close to using full throttle on this little beast with the amount of power you are pushing to the blades.

I did notice that my headspeed on my compy is ALOT faster and alot more powerful overall than my Freestyle which boggles me as I thought they were exactly the same setup.


I did have to change out the craptastic SOFT rear blades as they were causing a NASTY vibration at higher headspeeds.. when looked at from behind you could see the soft rear blades were NOT tracking in the same arc at all.
this casued serious vibration at near full throttle.
I used King2 rear blades and that issue went away.
The stock tail blades are much to mushy and soft.

I still want to replace them with Trex tail blades but for now the king2s are a perfect fit no grinding or clearance issues but just a tad longer and MUCH firmer.
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:16 PM
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Houston, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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r0shi,

Since you're ordering, you might as well get several different pinion sizes. I've got 8T, 9T, & 10T. Depending on your heli's configuration, you'll find one that is best. My personal rule of thumb is 2/3 throttle when hovering at head height should lower the torque on the motor (therefore less amps drawn resulting in more flight time and cooler electronics) while still have enough throttle stick left for FFF and punch out as necessary.

Just take note that those HPI pinions are for 2mm motor shaft. Depending on your motor it might be 2.3mm or 3.17mm shaft although motor with 3.17 are usually for 450 sized helis.
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:20 PM
US Navy AT2 1987-1995
USNAviationjay's Avatar
Houston Texas
Joined Mar 2008
1,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_109
r0shi,

Since you're ordering, you might as well get several different pinion sizes. I've got 8T, 9T, & 10T. Depending on your heli's configuration, you'll find one that is best. My personal rule of thumb is 2/3 throttle when hovering at head height should lower the torque on the motor (therefore less amps drawn resulting in more flight time and cooler electronics) while still have enough throttle stick left for FFF and punch out as necessary.

Just take note that those HPI pinions are for 2mm motor shaft. Depending on your motor it might be 2.3mm or 3.17mm shaft although motor with 3.17 are usually for 450 sized helis.
hes on an arc 130 its a 2mm RS4
lightflight RC carries them.

and for the compy the 10 is perfect.
these Arc130s have a crapload of power on tap.
they hover with ease at 50% FFF at 75% and at 100.. its a rocketship..

and provide such a low draw im getting 9 minute flights with a flightpower 1345
and CSRC 1300
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Old Jun 03, 2008, 12:31 PM
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Houston, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
Dude a HBFP cannot even come close to spinning M24s as fast as they need to be spun for them to be worth while.
With all due respect Jay, since you don't own a real HBFP (yours is Freestyle), I fly SloMax + M24s on mine, as well as others on the HBFP thread, and hover at 2/3 throttle and still have decent punch out with a 10T pinion. 9T has hover at 80% so not enough reserve power.


Quote:
Originally Posted by USNAviationjay
I did notice that my headspeed on my compy is ALOT faster and alot more powerful overall than my Freestyle which boggles me as I thought they were exactly the same setup.
Weigh the 2 helis, I'm guessing the Compy is a bit heavier so will need higher headspeed. A hefty HBFP will weigh in a tad over 300g while a Compy is usually 1/3 heavier. I don't know about the weight of the Freestyle conversion since I don't own one.
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