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Old Dec 08, 2007, 02:54 PM
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O.K. kind of thought that might be the case ... "Max"
Couldn't you use a light grained sturdy wood to make the plug ,,like Ash or something and it would take less filling and sanding and be stronger coming out of the mold ???
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 03:04 PM
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Great video Max CNC has always fascinated me I can watch machines forever.

I have made plugs from car body filler (polyester) in the past with great success, shapes and sands easily and you can add more filler to build up shape as you go.

Larry, looking great so where is your build thread!!!!!! When do you think you will have it done?
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 03:30 PM
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Ken ,, I just don't have time to do a full build thread ...plus it isn't that great of a build to be documenting ... I am kind of throwing things together and just would rather build and get'er done and flying kind of thing . I am using the old fuse patched up in the nose ,,,and then using electric other than that it is just the same as the one in the video even most of the same tilt controls and cross shaft .Not even sure I am going to be able to use the TH-2 or not .
It will be a couple months before I have it close to hovering again ..then I have to work out the rest of the TH-2 setup for forward flight .The time I have to work on it is really really sparce to say the least .
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 03:36 PM
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I believe you can use anything the bit can cut. It will be a matter of how fast the machine can cut it (time=money) verses what the material cost. I was going to use Medium Density Fiberboard because it's really cheap and that's what they use for cabinets (they use a lot of cnc too). But JR (CNC owner) said it's real dusty and would weigh a ton. A fine grain, light wood would probably work good. You'd still have to sand the "scallops" from the where the bit cut before painting, but at least you wouldn't have to fill as much.

I'm no expert, but I'm willing to try anything with someone else's money .

PS. The machine is limited to about 3.5" depth (for each half), otherwise it would have to be done in built up sections.
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 03:48 PM
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Code:
 I'm willing to try anything with someone else's money .
I may just take you up on that some day

I can get the ash ... wood that I use to carve stuff out of ,and can get a large mantel size piece ( 12 X 72 X 3.5 " ) for around 85.00 at a local saw mill . That would do several V fuses

How long of work piece can it do ??
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v22chap
How long of work piece can it do ??
No problem there, 4ft x 8ft.
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 06:02 PM
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Larry,

I think most builds on this thread are a mis-match of old parts and bits thrown together as a shot in the dark, I wish you would do a build thread as we could all benefit from your trials and experience.

I have stared at this picture all night seeing how you have sorted cyclic control and rotation, I havent seen the inner workings of your 'V' before and I have enjoyed this brief insight, please let us have more!!!
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 06:56 PM
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Ken
I am not that far along yet .. just got the mechanics and wing finished and joining them together .
But here are some pix of the 04 (video bird ) that you can stare at for awhile longer ,,,until I get this one going .
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Old Dec 08, 2007, 07:02 PM
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Max, Your mold and parts look great. I am envious. I bought some stuff on my last trip to do mine except for the epoxy. I didn't want to try and sneak that stuff in my luggage. Since all the epoxy products here are labeled in Chinese, it may be awhile before I can get the right stuff.
Keep the pics coming.
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Old Dec 09, 2007, 04:05 PM
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I am a fixed wing flier but I wanted to say that this seems to be a very interesting project and I will definitely keep an eye on the updates.... good luck.

ARB
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Old Dec 12, 2007, 05:26 PM
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I wanted to post some pics since I'm not sure if I'll get to pull any parts this week. I'm getting stuff together and I think I have the fuselage mostly figured out. Pulling the fuselage pretty much kills the day and mistakes are very time consuming, so I want to make sure everything is figured out and ready to go.

From looking at other threads, I hope I can just use paint, then go to the first layer of fiberglass. I had used paint, then gel coat before the first layer of fiberglass in the past, but I'm not sure that is necessary and it should save a couple of ounces. Comments are appreciated on this subject.
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Old Dec 13, 2007, 02:01 AM
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Never bothered with paint I have always prefered to use a very thin thixotropic gelcoat as it gives a better finish and is easier to get a full covering on the vertical areas of the mould, but you are right if the cloth is applied carefully it probably isnt necessary

Great idea with the projector wish I had though of that!
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Old Dec 13, 2007, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heli_madken
Never bothered with paint I have always prefered to use a very thin thixotropic gelcoat as it gives a better finish and is easier to get a full covering on the vertical areas of the mould, but you are right if the cloth is applied carefully it probably isnt necessary

Great idea with the projector wish I had though of that!
Ken, the biggest problem I've had with the gel coat is bubbles in the finish and unless I get it thick enough, it doesn't want to stick to the sides which to me means greater weight.

The samples I've done with the paint next to the mold look pretty good, better than I've been able to do with gelcoat alone. But I haven't tried it without the gelcoat between the paint and first layer of fiberglass. The manuals I've looked at recommend a gelcoat. But looks like others in the forums don't use gelcoats.

Tell me your secrets on gelcoat, what product are you using, how do you mix it so you don't get bubbles in it? If I don't use gelcoat here, I'll use it for building molds in the future .
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Old Dec 13, 2007, 07:34 AM
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If you look at most of the fuselage manufacturers for heli products they dont use a gelcoat, I think the danger is cloth grinning through. Your mould is quite plain with few arrises so I would have thought you would get away with it.

I use a UK supplier who does a good 'thixotropic' gelcoat which will stick to the sides and remain thin, make sure everything is thoroughly dry and work the gelcoat into the mould well, I use a PVA release agent for this reason after a good polish with wax.
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Old Dec 18, 2007, 07:47 PM
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I guess I could back track a little on the fuselage mold. If anybody has any good products and methods they used, please chime in. I used the West system epoxy for most of the fiberglass, and some hobby 5 and 30 minute epoxy.

I'll detail more on the part when I pull the second half tomorrow.
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