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Old May 26, 2008, 02:05 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
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Sammy thanks for the comments.
Yes, I can time the flights but I don't want to risk getting my Li-po below 3V per cell. It will be sure intersting to watch the meter back at base next time my battery gets low.
I normally use Hitec 4 channel receivers but for this plane I'm using one of their new tiny 5 channel units which have less range than I'm use to. For the moment I'll leave the antenna out. At the back of the fuse on the underside I have a small length of plastic tube that acts as a guide way to keep it generally behind the plane.

Rob
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Old May 26, 2008, 02:14 PM
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USA, FL, Orlando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tclaridge
For the final touch, I added a Snoopy pilot like I saw earlier in this thread. It looks great, and is a nice touch to this model! I also painted the cockpit edge with Tamiya flat earth to make it look like the leather they used in WWI cockpits.

This really added to the look of the model and was well worth the time!

I hope my building tips help others, and I am looking forward to first flight. I will added the rigging last, and then fly!
The snoopy is cool. Please post a link to the snoopy! I'd buy the plane just for him.
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Old May 26, 2008, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Fran
I just got back from a great day of flying. The only bad spot of the day was the maiden flight of my SE5a. Everything was going great. The plane was flying nice and slow. There was almost no wind at all. My Wife was with me and she asked me if the SE5a can loop? I gave it a try and snap, the wings folded at about 40 feet. It returned to earth in an uncontrolled spin then splat. Bottom wing broke off on both sides at the fuse. Top wing snapped on one side and folded on the other. I had spider wire fishing line for the rigging. "I guess this plane cant loop." I explained to my Wife. This seems to be a very weak plane. So do yourself a favor and don't try to loop it.

Big Fran
That is amazingly weak. I guess it needs to be reinforced with carbon fiber prior to flying huh?
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Old May 26, 2008, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taekwondo
That is amazingly weak. I guess it needs to be reinforced with carbon fiber prior to flying huh?

My next one will be. Also no loops.

Big Fran
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Old May 26, 2008, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Fran
My next one will be. Also no loops.

Big Fran
Once you reinforce it with cf, you should be able to do all the loops you want. I may have to get one of these, cuz I have a wanna be eflite 250 clone type motor from china I got for free. I have a real tiger moth (I mean wood balsa type) from nitromodels, but have never flown it and figured it would be better to try and fly a cheapie foamie type but it's only like 30 dollars less. I don't know, I've never flown a biplane, are they harder than mono planes?
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Old May 26, 2008, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
Again the ESC didn't cut in, after 20 mins, it just ran out of sufficient power to fly.
Back at base it was 6.62V and recharged to 8.38V & restored 916mA

Rob
Hi Rob,

The ThunderPower Li-Po's are top quality and expensive batteries, but you are destroying it with what you are doing to it...

A resting voltage of 6.62 volts on a 2s Li-Po is a sure fire way to drastically reduce the life expectancy of the battery.

Please click on my avatar, see my Blog page... and scroll down to the section titled "How far down should I take my Li-Po?"

Chuck
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Old May 26, 2008, 08:31 PM
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Chuck,

I have been using Li-Pos for several years, thats why I said that I need to address the issue and I'm not going to simply look at a timer.
I'll post in the Castle Creations forum and see whats up with the ESC, it should be doing an auto cutout at 3V per cell


RESPONSE FROM CASTLE CREATIONS
RobP --

The Thunderbird uses a "soft" cutoff - - so it throttles down when the battery reaches cutoff voltage, and then modulates throttle to keep the battery voltage above the cutoff voltage.

So, if the battery still has enough charge to "rebound" voltage after a throttle down, the motor will continue to run, but at a lower power level.

Try it on the ground after landing, you will see that eventually the motor will slow way down after cutoff, and will continue to slow as the battery loses charge. It won't allow the battery to drop below the preset cutoff level.

Patrick
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Old May 26, 2008, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
Chuck,

I have been using Li-Pos for several years, thats why I said that I need to address the issue and I'm not going to simply look at a timer.
I'll post in the Castle Creations forum and see whats up with the ESC, it should be doing an auto cutout at 3V per cell
Hi Rob,

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply you didn't know what you were doing. If it came across that way, I apologize.

Now, the only way I can see you addressing the issue is by getting an ESC that is programmable for different Li-Po cutoffs. From what I'm to understand (without being able to cite surces), is that a lot of the newer Li-Po's are recommendending an LVC of 3.2v and sometimes 3.3v per cell.

Chuck
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Old May 26, 2008, 08:48 PM
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For what it's worth, I use the Castle Creations TB's myself, and you can program them for either a hard cutoff, or a soft cutoff.

Chuck
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Old May 26, 2008, 08:56 PM
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OK Chuck looks like we are on the same page.
Maybe this RPM "slow down" is part of a "soft cut off"???
I too am nervous about running down to 3V. I believe thet TBs can be adjusted for voltage cutoff but via a "purchased" programming device...

Anyway I have posted my concerns in the Castle Creations forum & it will be interesting to see what comes back.

Rob
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Old May 26, 2008, 09:27 PM
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Hi Rob,

I had to go have a look at my Castle literature, and the hard/soft cutoffs apply to the Castle Creations brushed motor ESC's. The brushless ESC (T-Birds), are programmable for custom LVC's throught the Castle Link Cable.

Chuck
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Old May 26, 2008, 10:11 PM
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Snoopy for SE5a

Here is the Snoopy I used in PDF. I printed on a color deskjet, cut out, and rubber cement to thin balsa. Then I cut a small rectangle piece of thin balsa for the base and CA. Painted the base black, and painted Snoppy's edges black (and his nose).

AUW is 1g and it looks great!
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Old May 27, 2008, 06:46 AM
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A couple of thoughts

I prefer to use a Radio Shack toggle switch between the battery and the esc so that I don't have to go thru the nonsense of hooking up a battery to a motor and hoping it doesn't go "live" on me as I jostle the transmitter around.

I set the timer on my Hitech Transmitter for about 17 minutes on my Jenny and then bring her in when it beeps. That way I still have power and no damage to the batteries.
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Old May 27, 2008, 10:30 AM
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Air cooling

I will definitely watch the heat on the esc and battery since I added a hatch. Also, there is not much space for cooling air to come into the front. I will do a short flight, and then see if things get warm.

A cooling option would be to cut out the radiator rectangles, and CA a piece of screen behind the front cowl. Lets air in, and would proabably look nice too. Then add an exit hole on the bottom.
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Old May 27, 2008, 01:37 PM
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Thank you tclaridge. I can't wait to use him. That was very kind of you to respond so quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tclaridge
Here is the Snoopy I used in PDF. I printed on a color deskjet, cut out, and rubber cement to thin balsa. Then I cut a small rectangle piece of thin balsa for the base and CA. Painted the base black, and painted Snoppy's edges black (and his nose).

AUW is 1g and it looks great!
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