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Old May 08, 2008, 08:29 AM
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Rob_P's Avatar
Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,130 Posts
Update.
Yesterday I received a new CF motor mount tube in the post from E-Flite. The difference between the tubes is significant. When I test pushed my motor onto the new tube it needed a little force to pull it back out. The tube supplied in the kit could best be described as a “rattle fit”. The new tube was neatly packaged as E-Flite spare part and had to be cut down to achieve the desired length.
So far the motor has been glued to the tube with canopy cement.
I did a test fit with a prop fitted to the motor & it struck me that there is not a lot of margin for error.
The OD of the CF is not an exact fit in its bulkhead location holes allowing it to be moved around by x degrees at the prop end (is the CF OD too small or the location holes in the bulkhead too large?). This problem is made more difficult by the seemingly “short reach” of the prop saver set up. This means in order to get reasonable clearance between the back edge of the prop and the front face of the nose face plate you are at risk of the spinning outrunner body touching the inner face of the nose face plate.
Glueing this is going to be tricky as I will need to jig the assembly to ensure the optimum distance and angle to ensure everything can spin without touching. This work would be best carried out by an octopus!

Still working on sticking the fuselage roundels back down. Every time I comeback to the fuse the decal is curling up somewhere else. To make matters even worse while handling the fuse working on the above it cracked This is a vertical crack through the foam doubler at the wing seat. I wicked some foam safe CA into the crack & I’m in the process of epoxying 1/16” ply doublers to the inner faces to beef it up.

I can’t believe I’m having so much trouble with this plane. I am not new to building planes & I had been really looking forward to putting this plane together.
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:09 PM
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skunkworks2006's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Nov 2006
2,712 Posts
Sorry it has been a chore for you Rob.
I had some trouble with the CF rod too. Mine was too large I'D, but I made it work with just a little bit of Gorilla Glue after sanding the tube and the motor mounting surfaces.
For fitting the prop with such little clearance, consider taking off the lip inside the cowl hole where the prop shaft runs. It comes off easily with a sharp knife and may make a big difference in fit. Dry fit it all in and then slide the CF a bit to one side, hit it with some glue, and slide it back.
BTW I'm using the E-Flite 250.
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Old May 09, 2008, 06:56 AM
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Rob_P's Avatar
Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,130 Posts
Motor & CF tube finally CA'd into the fuse.
I wired it all up and with the motor & prop spining slowly I was able to move it back & forth listening for the sound of the motor rubbing on the back of the nose face plate, then just back it off a fraction glue and hope nothing moved.
Checked it this morning and it all seems OK.

Hopefully I wont break a prop but if I do this nose face plate has got be modified. There is virtually no space to thread the bands around the backs of the set screws. The face plate needs to be two piece with a horzontal split on the motor axis so that it can be removed & replaced (top & bottom half) after the new prop has been fitted.
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Old May 09, 2008, 11:26 AM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,423 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
Motor & CF tube finally CA'd into the fuse.
I wired it all up and with the motor & prop spining slowly I was able to move it back & forth listening for the sound of the motor rubbing on the back of the nose face plate, then just back it off a fraction glue and hope nothing moved.
Checked it this morning and it all seems OK.

Hopefully I wont break a prop but if I do this nose face plate has got be modified. There is virtually no space to thread the bands around the backs of the set screws. The face plate needs to be two piece with a horzontal split on the motor axis so that it can be removed & replaced (top & bottom half) after the new prop has been fitted.
Or, just remove that face plate. That's what I did and it's SO much easier to attach props, etc. Also allows lots of air for motor/esc cooling. I painted the motor mount cage brown and with the prop whirring around I don't miss that little plate at all....
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Old May 10, 2008, 01:52 PM
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Rob_P's Avatar
Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,130 Posts
This is driving me @##%##.

The model is built except for adding the machine gun. I was just going to check and adjust the servo throws & I note that the pushrods are different lengths & they are in the wrong tubes requiring just a simple swap....
The first pushrod swapped OK but I have now spent around 4hrs on the elevator pushrod. I suspect that the guide tube is not attached to the inside of the fuse. If I feed the pushrod in from the elevator end, it does not emerge in the tube for the correct path to the servo.
If I feed a wire, cotton etc in from the front of the guide tube to try and fish it out through the fuse, no luck.

I don't really want to de-mount the wing because I'm not sure how much more I'll see. Also as the U/C is CA'd to the fuse, you cant move it that far anyaway.

What a way to #$%$^& away potential flying time.

This model is poor quality.

PS - when I was feeding the rigging through the fuse tube. that tube came out too.

This model's quality SUCKS big time

Any comments Mr Redman?
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Last edited by Rob_P; May 10, 2008 at 01:58 PM.
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Old May 10, 2008, 02:05 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
This is driving me @##%##.

The model is built except for adding the machine gun. I was just going to check and adjust the servo throws & I note that the pushrods are different lengths & they are in the wrong tubes requiring just a simple swap....
The first pushrod swapped OK but I have now spent around 4hrs on the elevator pushrod. I suspect that the guide tube is not attached to the inside of the fuse. If I feed the pushrod in from the elevator end, it does not emerge in the tube for the correct path to the servo.
If I feed a wire, cotton etc in from the front of the guide tube to try and fish it out through the fuse, no luck.

I don't really want to de-mount the wing because I'm not sure how much more I'll see. Also as the U/C is CA'd to the fuse, you cant move it that far anyaway.

What a way to #$%$^& away potential flying time.

This model is poor quality.

PS - when I was feeding the rigging through the fuse tube. that tube came out too.

This model's quality SUCKS big time

Any comments Mr Redman?
Sorry you are having so much trouble. I built 3 without major problems but I did find on all 3 that the rods as shipped were in the wrong tubes however I discovered this before I had it all installed on the first plane. As to the threading of the rigging through the tubes I run a music wire through the tubes before trying to get my #30 test Spider wire through as I found a couple cases where the tubes were partially blocked.
boomer
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Old May 10, 2008, 06:23 PM
Pan Pan Pan
Harri3's Avatar
Arizona
Joined Feb 2003
395 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
This is driving me @##%##.

The model is built except for adding the machine gun. I was just going to check and adjust the servo throws & I note that the pushrods are different lengths & they are in the wrong tubes requiring just a simple swap....
The first pushrod swapped OK but I have now spent around 4hrs on the elevator pushrod. I suspect that the guide tube is not attached to the inside of the fuse. If I feed the pushrod in from the elevator end, it does not emerge in the tube for the correct path to the servo.
If I feed a wire, cotton etc in from the front of the guide tube to try and fish it out through the fuse, no luck.

I don't really want to de-mount the wing because I'm not sure how much more I'll see. Also as the U/C is CA'd to the fuse, you cant move it that far anyaway.

What a way to #$%$^& away potential flying time.

This model is poor quality.

PS - when I was feeding the rigging through the fuse tube. that tube came out too.

This model's quality SUCKS big time

Any comments Mr Redman?

Rob, I had some problems with the pushrods on my SE5 also. My pushrods fit but there was an obstruction or kink in the elevator pushrod tubing that made the servo work too hard. I didn't want to open up the fuselage to fix the tubing, so I used smaller diameter music wire for the pushrod and it worked fine.

Best of luck with yours, they are nice flyers.
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Old May 10, 2008, 08:52 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,130 Posts
OK I have calmed down a bit now.
Here are my gripes -
Virtually the 1st instruction in the assembly guide (step 3) is wrong, the CF tube is not or should be cut down to 1.5" 38mm. I think its more lile 1 3/4".

The CF motor mount tube ID was oversized. The people in this forum seem to know about it yet the people at E-filte don't (or are not admitting to it).

I like a lot of people use Hitec HS55s, which don't quite fit the opening. Its not a big deal to open up the cut out, but I believe that its one of the most popular servos out there for this type of plane, so why not allow for it.

The roundel stickers on the fuselage don't stick and are curling up. It has taken several attempts to get them to glue down. I'm almost there now but it does not look as good as it should.

When the vertical stabiliser is glued fully home to the stabiliser, and the assembly is mounted to the plane, the leading edge of the stabiliser should sit on top of the fuse yet their is a 1/8" gap. This looks horrible.

The fancy re-inforcing for the control horns although look good and maybe fuctional. The pre-cut slots are not wide enough for the supplied control horns requiring a bit of carefull cutting to enable the control horns to fit.

The rigging tubes through the fuse were gummed up with glue & paint. On one side of the fuse it was difficult to see exactly where the center of the tube is forcing me to open up the tube from the other side. When trying to open up the hole with piano wire, the whole tube pushed through the fuse. It was not possible to get a fine drill bit long enough to work through from one side to the other.

From what I know so far...The push rod wires are pretty stiff in their guide tubes. The push rods are different lengths by about 0.5" (what a saving) but the wires were inserted into the wrong guide tubes, cuasing the user to swap the rods around (assuming you installed the servos as per the instructions).
My elevator guide tube has detached itself at its exit point in the fuse making it near impossibe to re- insert the pushrod into the guide tube from the front and exit through the fuse at the right point or you can't push the pushrod back though the fuse exit point and pick up in the tube thats waggling around inside the fuse. If you hold it up to the light, you can just about see it.

I'm begining to think the most viable option is to cut open the fuse to try and rescue and re-attach the guide tube.

WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO DO THIS?
THIS IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT!!!

I am a pretty experienced builder from scratch builds, conventional balsa build up kits and even GWS. I own an E-Flite Blade CP and I'm pretty comfortable with its build quality & its this that had led me to believe that the E-Flite SE5a would be an enjoyable quality ARF.
I even spoke to E-Filte's John Redman at Toledo. although he didn't bring an SE5a to the show he was able to answer all my question and filled me with confidence and anticipation of owning my own.

John, I know you frequent this forum, so please respond.
Do you think my experience is acceptable?
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Last edited by Rob_P; May 10, 2008 at 09:07 PM.
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Old May 12, 2008, 06:51 AM
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Rob_P's Avatar
Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
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I was eventually able to recover the elevator pushrod tube. I fed a fine wire into the tube from the front, gauged a hole in the side of the fuse and then fished it out with a hook formed onto the end of a fine wire. What a mess.

Anyway the build is pretty much complete & here are my two questions -

Are people securing the battery with one piece of velcro stuck to the motor box and another piece stuck to the battery. Or is it necessary to use a 0.5" wide double sided velcro strap that passes around the motor box and fastens together under the battery. It looks like there are two laser cut slots that might be in the right spot to feed a strap through.

How sensitive to C of G is this plane? As built, it balances near horizontal over quite a range moving backwards from the suggested balance point. Should the balance for this plane be assumed to be slightly nose down at the specified point?

Rob
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Old May 12, 2008, 12:54 PM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,423 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
I was eventually able to recover the elevator pushrod tube. I fed a fine wire into the tube from the front, gauged a hole in the side of the fuse and then fished it out with a hook formed onto the end of a fine wire. What a mess.

Anyway the build is pretty much complete & here are my two questions -

Are people securing the battery with one piece of velcro stuck to the motor box and another piece stuck to the battery. Or is it necessary to use a 0.5" wide double sided velcro strap that passes around the motor box and fastens together under the battery. It looks like there are two laser cut slots that might be in the right spot to feed a strap through.

How sensitive to C of G is this plane? As built, it balances near horizontal over quite a range moving backwards from the suggested balance point. Should the balance for this plane be assumed to be slightly nose down at the specified point?

Rob
Here's what I did Rob--added a 2mm piece of c/fiber rod (or just a toothpick) from side to side and epoxied in place (see pic). I have some velcro on the bottom on the motor box as seen, and a smaller section on my batteries. The velcro holds it fine and the c/f rod keeps the other end of the battery from tipping down and contacting the servo arms.

C/G--mine was a bit nose heavy from the heavier BlueWonder (use HARD timing by the way) and heavier 800-900mah batteries so I added a few grams of weight to the tail. Mine still balances about 1/4" ahead of the recommended spot but flies wonderful this way--wonderful to this rookie anyway

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Old May 15, 2008, 05:07 PM
Registered User
Manila Ninoy Intl, Philippines
Joined Nov 2001
1,324 Posts
Struts dimensions / scan still needed

I was in contact with Horizon product support looking for some struts.

Product support confirmed that the struts were never offered as a replacement part.

The service rep did try to look among the return kits, but apparently all the return kits have been disposed of (not to the dumpster, I hope).

So if anybody has the unbuilt kit AND a scanner, please scan and post the struts here for posterity.
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Old May 16, 2008, 03:33 PM View Post
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Old May 22, 2008, 06:27 AM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
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I have seen some pics of models that have gained some exhaust pipes. Last night I grabbed a couple of drinking straws and started to see how feasible it is. It looks like the ideal run will cover up the cabane fixing screws. How have you guys run your pipes?

Also I find the big black expanse of shiny plastic (the motor and surround) to be very un-convincing & I was thinking of using a contrasting colours to "pick out" the engine / exhaust & the "surround".

Has anyone else done this & how did it turn out?
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Last edited by Rob_P; May 22, 2008 at 06:35 AM.
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Old May 22, 2008, 11:23 AM
Jim
North Alabama
Joined Mar 2004
1,866 Posts
I had the hammer back on getting one of these..not so sure now after seeing all these issues!
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Old May 22, 2008, 07:33 PM
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PfalzPflyer's Avatar
Omaha, Nebraska USA
Joined Dec 2003
277 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_W
I had the hammer back on getting one of these..not so sure now after seeing all these issues!
Jim_W,

That's too bad, because it's actually a really nice little airplane. It's a great value compared to some of the alternatives, builds easily (for most of us, anyways), looks great in the air, and flies well within the conditions one would normally fly a small, lightweight foamie biplane.

I've enjoyed the heck out of mine, and I highly doubt that Boomerace would have built three of them if he didn't think it was a "keeper", too.

But to each their own...

Dean in Omaha

(P.S. And no, I don't work for E-flite! )
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