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Old Apr 27, 2008, 10:56 PM
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United States, NC, Sherrills Ford
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Thanks.... I really didn't know what I had...

Ken
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Old May 01, 2008, 07:41 AM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
With some luck my LHS will have his new stock of SE5as today & i hope to pick up nearly everything in one visit.
I was going to go with the Eflite 250, Thunder Power 2 cell 730mA & 9A Thunderbird. I already have a suitable tiny Hitec receiver and two HS55 servos.

Q1 - Looking at the threads I presume I need a GWS 7 x 3.5. Is that a slow fly or a direct type of prop?

Q2 - Will a 9A Thunderbird be OK, the next size up is only marginally larger / heavier?

Q3 - Why is everyone using prop saver / O ring set ups, can't you use a conventional prop adapter and spinner?

Q4 - With regard to the rigging, I imagine its difficult to keep it all taught while tying off the knots. How about getting a really fine wire strand and just CA'ing in place. failing that carbon fiber (but so far I have not seen any thats fine enough.

Q5 - If I go with the MPI wheels are the 2 1/2" the correct diameter (Similar to the ones supplied in the kit).

PS - I hate that brilliant white underside. I have seen a can of Tamiya "Racing White" in the LHS. If the can colour is correct it looks like a cream colour. Anyone tried it?

Hoping for a quick response
Rob
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Old May 01, 2008, 11:05 AM
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Omaha, Nebraska USA
Joined Dec 2003
277 Posts
Rob_P

You'll like this plane. It's great indoors or even outdoors in calm conditions.

The setup you propose should work well. The Park 250 is the suggested motor, and I don't think you'll have any problems with the speed control since I don't think the motor would draw enough amps to hurt it.

If I'm not mistaken, the GWS prop you mention is a slowflyer type, though I can't say for sure as I've only used APC props with mine.

The motor is set up to use the prop savers, and while it may be a bit of a pain to get the prop on, it seems to have worked OK so far, at least for me.

It's really not too tough to keep the tension tight when you tie rigging, just prop up the wingtips so you get your dihedral in there before you glue it. I changed to a "spiderwire"-type braided fishing line rather than using the supplied line. Monofiliment works as well. I tried the "fine wire" method before, and it doesn't hold up well, nor does it give the required strength to the wings. (These thin wings really need the rigging to be functional!) I would avoid doing the carbon fiber.

I never replaced the wheels on mine, but if I did it would be with ones from Hobby-Lobby. They're 2 3/8ths" lightweight parkflyer wheels, model # SIR610. I think they're about $5.20 (US). I've used them before on my other WW1 parkflyers with good results. I've never used the MPI wheels, but they look stout.

Be careful to test that paint on the foam before using it. I've used Tamiya acrylics on mine. You should be OK if it's acrylic, but you'd hate to find out the hard way that it wasn't foam-safe!

Hope this helped,
Dean in Omaha
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Last edited by PfalzPflyer; May 01, 2008 at 11:06 AM. Reason: I kant spel 2day!
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Old May 01, 2008, 01:37 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
With some luck my LHS will have his new stock of SE5as today & i hope to pick up nearly everything in one visit.
I was going to go with the Eflite 250, Thunder Power 2 cell 730mA & 9A Thunderbird. I already have a suitable tiny Hitec receiver and two HS55 servos.

Q1 - Looking at the threads I presume I need a GWS 7 x 3.5. Is that a slow fly or a direct type of prop?

Q2 - Will a 9A Thunderbird be OK, the next size up is only marginally larger / heavier?

Q3 - Why is everyone using prop saver / O ring set ups, can't you use a conventional prop adapter and spinner?

Q4 - With regard to the rigging, I imagine its difficult to keep it all taught while tying off the knots. How about getting a really fine wire strand and just CA'ing in place. failing that carbon fiber (but so far I have not seen any thats fine enough.

Q5 - If I go with the MPI wheels are the 2 1/2" the correct diameter (Similar to the ones supplied in the kit).

PS - I hate that brilliant white underside. I have seen a can of Tamiya "Racing White" in the LHS. If the can colour is correct it looks like a cream colour. Anyone tried it?

Hoping for a quick response
Rob
Q1 = Direct Drive
Q2 = perfect Esc
Q3 = Part of the motor can't use anything else!
Q4 = No problem however I use 30# test braided Spider Wire Fishing line and prestretch it before use as then it NEVER gets saggy!
Q5 = Yes
I suspect it will eat the foam. Most of my spray Tamiya's will!
boomer
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Old May 01, 2008, 01:53 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
Thats a quick response, thank you.
From what I have read elsewhere its the propellant that they use rather than the paint that has the foam compatability issues.
I have used Testors spray on my TM400 & that was fine, just a pity I didn't see a suitable colour in the that range last time I was at the LHS.
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Old May 01, 2008, 06:33 PM
Luis Claudio - Rio - Brazil
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Brasil, RJ, Rio de Janeiro
Joined Apr 2005
2,459 Posts
Iīll buy those wheels for my plane, Thanks a lot!

Take a look in mu plane, itīs Tony65x55 project, very nice to build.
The wing, cowl, UC are just in place to show how it looks, not glued yet.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...58#post9674093

Best regards,
Luis Claudio




Quote:
Originally Posted by PfalzPflyer
Rob_P

You'll like this plane. It's great indoors or even outdoors in calm conditions.

The setup you propose should work well. The Park 250 is the suggested motor, and I don't think you'll have any problems with the speed control since I don't think the motor would draw enough amps to hurt it.

If I'm not mistaken, the GWS prop you mention is a slowflyer type, though I can't say for sure as I've only used APC props with mine.

The motor is set up to use the prop savers, and while it may be a bit of a pain to get the prop on, it seems to have worked OK so far, at least for me.

It's really not too tough to keep the tension tight when you tie rigging, just prop up the wingtips so you get your dihedral in there before you glue it. I changed to a "spiderwire"-type braided fishing line rather than using the supplied line. Monofiliment works as well. I tried the "fine wire" method before, and it doesn't hold up well, nor does it give the required strength to the wings. (These thin wings really need the rigging to be functional!) I would avoid doing the carbon fiber.

I never replaced the wheels on mine, but if I did it would be with ones from Hobby-Lobby. They're 2 3/8ths" lightweight parkflyer wheels, model # SIR610. I think they're about $5.20 (US). I've used them before on my other WW1 parkflyers with good results. I've never used the MPI wheels, but they look stout.

Be careful to test that paint on the foam before using it. I've used Tamiya acrylics on mine. You should be OK if it's acrylic, but you'd hate to find out the hard way that it wasn't foam-safe!

Hope this helped,
Dean in Omaha
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Old May 01, 2008, 06:35 PM
Luis Claudio - Rio - Brazil
Luis_Claudio's Avatar
Brasil, RJ, Rio de Janeiro
Joined Apr 2005
2,459 Posts
raf se5a

Iīll buy those wheels for my plane, Thanks a lot!

Take a look in my plane, itīs Tony65x55 project, very nice to build.
The wing, cowl, UC are just in place to show how it looks, not glued yet.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...58#post9674093

Best regards,
Luis Claudio[/QUOTE]
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Old May 01, 2008, 09:58 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
The model has not arrived yet at the LHS but I did get some of the other stuff -
Thunderbird 9, EFlite 250, MPI 2/5" wheels, couple of 7x3.5 props (they look like the DD type rather than slow flier (straight rather than curved blades).
Didn't get a battery for some reason the TP730s he had, didn't have the balance taps.


Just checked the TP web site and in the pic of the 730 cells there is NO BALANCE connection but there is with the 900mA pack.

Does the 900mA pack fit & is it OK weight wise?

The good news is that I bought a can of the Tamiya Racing white & its just what I wanted, like an old cream colour. I test sprayed it on both some Midwest model foam and a "carry out" container with no problems.

Rob
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Old May 02, 2008, 08:46 AM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
Sorry for repeating but I just don't want this to be lost.
I have read that the preferred battery for the 250 motor is the 480?mA 2 cell. However other people are using the TP 730mA 2 cell OK with the same set up.

The TP 730mA has no balance connector and therefore its usefull life will be much reduced. If I go upto the TP 910mA, that has the balance connector.

The specs are

TP730mA 9.5mm x 33mm x 55mm 34g (1.19 oz)
TP910mA 10mm x 33mm x 65mm 46g (1.62 oz)

Can the extra 10mm in length, 12g (0.42 oz) can be accomodated with out major fuse mods and noticable change to the flight performance?

Rob
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Old May 02, 2008, 11:27 AM
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PfalzPflyer's Avatar
Omaha, Nebraska USA
Joined Dec 2003
277 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
Sorry for repeating but I just don't want this to be lost.
I have read that the preferred battery for the 250 motor is the 480?mA 2 cell. However other people are using the TP 730mA 2 cell OK with the same set up.

The TP 730mA has no balance connector and therefore its usefull life will be much reduced. If I go upto the TP 910mA, that has the balance connector.

The specs are

TP730mA 9.5mm x 33mm x 55mm 34g (1.19 oz)
TP910mA 10mm x 33mm x 65mm 46g (1.62 oz)

Can the extra 10mm in length, 12g (0.42 oz) can be accomodated with out major fuse mods and noticable change to the flight performance?

Rob
Either of those packs should fit the battery compartment. I don't think you'll have any problems with either pack, but I think I would suggest the larger one. You'll probably want the weight up front to help balance, since WW1 birds tend to be hail-heavy.
On mine I use the E-flite Park 300 (heavier motor) and a 740mAh pack mounted as far forward as I can get it, and it flies fine. The only one I've seen that flew with the 250 and a small pack needed weight up front to balance. Might as well be useful battery weight, right?

Dean in Omaha
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Old May 04, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
OK, I picked up my plane on Saturday & I have a question regarding the motor mount tube.

In my 250 motor box, the foam is cut to look like a tube is included, but there was no mount tube.

In one of the fittings bags in with the plane there is a black CF tube approx 45mm long x 8mm OD.

The build instructions refer to a motor mount tube that is 1.5" long (38mm). So if the black plastic tube in the plane box is the motor mount it needs cutting down in length but of more concern is how sloppy the fit is on the tube.

HELP !!! Do I have something missing?

Rob
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Old May 05, 2008, 06:41 AM
JOHN 3:16
Sammy70's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
6,504 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_P
OK, I picked up my plane on Saturday & I have a question regarding the motor mount tube.

In my 250 motor box, the foam is cut to look like a tube is included, but there was no mount tube.

In one of the fittings bags in with the plane there is a black plastic tube approx 45mm long x 8mm OD.

The build instructions refer to a motor mount tube that is 1.5" long (38mm). So if the black plastic tube in the plane box is the motor mount it needs cutting down in length but of more concern is how sloppy the fit is on the tube.

HELP !!! Do I have something missing?

Rob

Read all about the tube problem here Rob: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812732
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Old May 05, 2008, 07:31 AM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
1,140 Posts
Thanks Sammy & Dr Who,

It seems like I'm another vicitim of the wrong motor tube ID.
I have just PM'd John Redman from E-Flite & a regular subscriber to this site. I'll keep you all informed as to how this gets resolved.

Best regards Rob
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Old May 05, 2008, 09:52 PM
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Grosse Pointe, Mi
Joined Jun 2005
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Well no response from E-filte so I called on the telephone. On my first call I got transferred again & again & again then on hold for ever.
I made a fresh call and noted that it took three people & 10 mins to direct me to the person who "could assist".

After explaining my problem the "help's" firsts words were whats an SE5a????
And no, this call was not terminating in India....

The "help" was not aware of any issues regarding problems with out of spec motor tubes. Again this does not give much confidence. However the call was concluded with a promise to despatch a new motor mount tube.

I'll keep you posted when it arrives.

Rather than paint the white edges of the foam wings I have coloured them with a green sharpie and its done a very good job, though it will not have sealed the foam as well paint.

Now this is an irritation.. My roundel decals are curling up off the fuse VERY badly. They will need a smear of glue underneath to stick them back down.

Can anyone recommend a suitable glue for putting the decals back down?

Robert
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Old May 05, 2008, 10:57 PM
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United States, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2007
539 Posts
I used UHU glue, I just put a thin layer on with a toothpick. It seems to be holding fine so far.
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