I got it all glued back together. It ain't pretty any more, but she flys. I added carbon rod to both wings. And I think about 6lbs of CA.
Honestly though it is a bit faster; I don't have a scale that will work with this one, but I'm sure it is a pig.
I also noticed something strange. Once all back together, the string was nice and taught. After my re-maiden I noticed there was a lot of slack. I figured something had come loose, but no. When I brought it inside and it warmed up a bit, the string went tight again. )
What is expanding and contracting?
I would think monofilament would also expand and contract as well as metal wire.
It was cold during my wing failure, and now I'm wondering if it was partly due to slack.

The string is worthless--use mono or spider wire--they don't stretch like string does.

Originally Posted by Pat Daily

I used 10lb test monofilament line to rig my Jenny and she loops great with no wing flexing. My buddy, Stew Meyers, used the line that came in the kit and it is very loose and worthless for rigging a plane--it loosens up and provides no real bracing. I wouldn't use it on my planes.

I put a strip of 2-inch wide clear packing tape under each wing, and used 14-lb. "SpiderWire" fishing line instead of the supplied rigging wire. No flex, no problems.

Dean in Omaha

Well, the carbon rods have held up well. It did take out the dihedral though. I think that the next one will get the SpiderWire treatment along with packing tape too. You read correctly....I'll be building another soon enough. Despite my issues with this plane, it is a great looking and well-mannered slow flyer for lazy days in calm air or indoors.

I'm presently building another one with over powered Blue Wonder motor and just Rudder/Elevator and have placed carbon reinforcing under the bottom wing at the 1/3 point and at LE of top wing. I found if I inserted a one piece carbon rod inside a aluminum tube that extended about 1" past the center supports tip to tip I could then bend the aluminum in the correct shape of the top wing dihedral and the aluminum was stiff enough to hold the carbon rod at the correct angle. I then thick CAed it in place and wrapped with tape. I will add the 30# test braided Spider Wire but seems the wing is structurally sound without it!
boomer

We found that when we overpowered the foam Sig WW1 parkflyers as long as the lower wing was supported by a CF rod the top wing would never fail. The top wing could only fold if the lower was able too.

Those SE5's you guys are playing around with sure look cool.

Steve

http://polygonpete.blogspot.com/

This site has some Peanut Scale airplanes to model after. Just scroll down the page a little..double click to enlarge.
enjoy
jim

Agreed, my sig jenny has a bamboo leading edge spar, and packing tape on both top and bottom of both wings, and it is still flying fine at 13 oz with floats attached. I reinforced the bottom of my SE5 with a carbon rod and packing tape and it flies fine without the strings needed.

Frank

Originally Posted by floss

We found that when we overpowered the foam Sig WW1 parkflyers as long as the lower wing was supported by a CF rod the top wing would never fail. The top wing could only fold if the lower was able too.

Those SE5's you guys are playing around with sure look cool.

Steve

My review of the S.E.5a is up here on RCGroups

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788621

Enjoy

I apologise if all of this has been covered elsewhere. I'm considering getting an E-Flite SE5A and I'd like to hear comments regarding the likelyhood of being able to squeeze in my favourite components.

Receiver - Hitec HFS-04M4G
37.5 x 25 x 26mm (1.47 x 0.98 x 0.62")

Battery - Thunder Power 2 cell 2100mah
102 x 32 x 13mm (4 x 1.25 x 0.5")

Servos - Hitec HS55
Sorry no dims but we all know what these look like.

Speed Control - Most probably a Castle Creations Thunderbird ( I have not looked into what current rating I'll need).

Your comments would be much appreciated

Rob

Originally Posted by Rob_P

I apologise if all of this has been covered elsewhere. I'm considering getting an E-Flite SE5A and I'd like to hear comments regarding the likelyhood of being able to squeeze in my favourite components.

Receiver - Hitec HFS-04M4G
37.5 x 25 x 26mm (1.47 x 0.98 x 0.62")

Battery - Thunder Power 2 cell 2100mah
102 x 32 x 13mm (4 x 1.25 x 0.5")

Servos - Hitec HS55
Sorry no dims but we all know what these look like.

Speed Control - Most probably a Castle Creations Thunderbird ( I have not looked into what current rating I'll need).

Your comments would be much appreciated

Rob

Battery way too heavy. I use something in 480 range plus there is no way to get it in the nose. Even if you could the plane would be way nose heavy and fly like a brick!
boomer

Hey guys, I recently bought the SE5a, and I have a few questions.

E-flite recommends their S60 servo, which is 6g. I don't have those lying around, but I do have a few spare HS-55 servos, which are a little wider and taller. The difference in weight is nominal (2g), but the extra 1.8mm (x2) width seems to be an issue when trying the squeeze the 2 servos into the tiny servo slot. I can fit one in there, but the wire prevents me from squeezing the second one in. Would you recommend I pony up the $30 to get the S60s, or just cut a tiny slot for the HS-55 wires to fit through?

I know at least one poster put ailerons on his SE5a... is this a good idea?

The manual recommeds a 6x4 GWS prop to go with their 250 sized motor (which is what I'll get)... what can I try with a 7" diameter? Or should I stick with the 6" one?

One more question: what's a good 1/10-1/12 scale British pilot to use?

Here is my set-up with good results on 25-30 flights:
E-flite park 250
E-Flite 10amp pro ESC
GWS 8x6 slow flyer prop
Self built 740 2-cell lipo unknown C rating
S-60 servos

I don't think the HS-55's would be a big deal.
If you look up the park 250 specs at E-Flite you'll see the park 250 can handle an 8x4 slow flyer. I know that the SE5a is a draggy airframe and my prop is probably too much, but it seems to work well.
Others recommend the GWS 7x4 and I think that would be about right and look more scale than the 6 inch.

I used the HS-55s in mine, I just filed the opening a tad so they would slip in.

Originally Posted by DaveInLA

Hey guys, I recently bought the SE5a, and I have a few questions.

E-flite recommends their S60 servo, which is 6g. I don't have those lying around, but I do have a few spare HS-55 servos, which are a little wider and taller. The difference in weight is nominal (2g), but the extra 1.8mm (x2) width seems to be an issue when trying the squeeze the 2 servos into the tiny servo slot. I can fit one in there, but the wire prevents me from squeezing the second one in. Would you recommend I pony up the $30 to get the S60s, or just cut a tiny slot for the HS-55 wires to fit through?

HS-55s should work fine. I used the servos that come with the Spektrum DX6 and I had to "convince" them to fit, but once they were in they worked great.

Regarding ailerons, it depends whether or not you intend to fly outdoors or not. For indoor flying the 3-channel setup works fine. For outdoors I think ailerons would be fun, but only if you had enough power to pull the plane through the maneuvers that ailerons would make possible.

A couple of us upgraded the motors to the Park 300 (mainly because we already had them laying around), and it's a good powerplant for this plane because it gives you the option of using a 3-cell LiPoly for outdoor flying. (The Park 250 is strictly 2-cell.) The extra power comes in handy on windy days, and would be needed if you added ailerons, IMHO. We're running APC 8x3.8 Slowflyer props, because it gives enough thrust for indoor flying on a 2-cell, yet won't overload the Park 300 on 3 cells.

Hope this helps.

Dean in Omaha