|Dec 19, 2007, 11:06 AM|
Matt, can you print your color schemes directly on Depron ? I tried that a few years ago with an ink jet but the result was very faded. I'm going to try it again. Perhaps if I prime the surface it will take the ink better. I also found out since I last tried it that the printer has advanced setting which permit me to dump more ink. The advantages are worth the try. One - I won't have to contact cement templates to the foam to cut out the parts. Two- I can get a pretty intricate color scheme with detail at a low cost in weight. The disadvantage is I can't shape anything after it is done without messing up the finish. Your simpler designs seem like they were made for this procedure. The other option would be to cut sheets of blue foam and print the parts on that. The blue foam is more malleable than depron.
I did a quick test checking to see if I could create 3D poly lines and then flatten the sheet and I can. I'm not talking compound surfaces but surfaces like the one you created in front of the canopy in your example. The biggest trick will be to create the outline. I might have to do that part in Rhino.
Sorry if this sounded like I was thinking out loud but i guess that is what i was doing. Any thoughts on anything I said would be appreciated. Good luck with your F-22.
|Dec 19, 2007, 11:11 AM|
Roy, another option would be to print it on tissue paper, then attach the tissue to the depron. Tissue weighs almost nothing, especially one layer.
|Dec 20, 2007, 05:51 PM|
Yeah it would be great to be able to print right on the foam with an inkjet. I've never tried it but I would imagine that color coverage is not so great as you mentioned. The big drawback to me is the time needed to create the graphics and get everything "just right". I was working on an F-16 that used printed paper skins a few years ago and it still needs a LOT of work.
Browse around in the Indoor forum and you will see a lot of beautiful models using the tissue method that Metroid mentioned.
|Dec 23, 2007, 01:45 PM|
I just finished the first test model and I'm fairly satisfied with it. Things I learned:
- The upper fuselage skin needs to be pre-curved so the tension doesn't deform the wing plate
- Vertical tails need to be mounted with some kind of jig to get them aligned properly
- Battery needs to sit farther back than I thought to get the CG correct
- Next model may need to be slightly larger for battery clearance (~5%)
Weight with all the gear is 4.3oz, should be slightly higher with paint and misc linkages.
Happy Holidays everybody,
|Jan 27, 2008, 09:21 PM|
The maiden flight of the second version went very well this afternoon. I rushed to get everything done late Saturday night, and the weather cooperated today with light winds and a practically tropical 33 degrees.
It has quite a wide speed range and the thrust vectoring paddles allow it do to tight "power loops" almost indefinitely. Roll control was good but not quite equal to ailerons even with the paddles.
I set up my camera out in the field but out of a 7 minute flight video got only 10 seconds or so of the plane in frame.
I'll paint it up this week and try to sneak in another flight after work if it's light enough.
Wing area: 98 sq.in
Wing loading: 7.1 oz/sq.ft
Fan: GWS EDF-40
Motor: Feigao 25T 5800kV
ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 10
Battery: 3S TP 730
Receiver: Berg 4L
Servos: 2x Blue Bird BMS-303
|Feb 01, 2008, 12:00 AM|
Here are the final images of the model and flight video for the deadline. It feels good to finish!
Flight video 2
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