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Old Jun 12, 2010, 05:14 PM
Just Stab It In
Bangalow,Australia
Joined Aug 2008
1,335 Posts
Oh no Joe, Sorry to hear ...
will there be a Round 3
130" That should be easier to carry
Mate your work has inspired me to build Thanks
Asto
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 10:57 PM
Registered User
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Bolton,England
Joined May 2003
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Bah...sorry to hear the bad news, but I guess you know have an excuse to make the next one...
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Old Jun 14, 2010, 01:32 PM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
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USA, OH, Worthington
Joined May 2002
6,738 Posts
Chin up Joe. I said it before and I'll say it again, you have charted new territory and moved the bar well up for others. I hope and pray to read more of your adventures here in the future.

Watching your thread go along got me interested in CNCs and I started researching the shopbots. In November I decided to build my own instead. I finished my CNC in February and cut my wing molds in March and April. I just pulled the first DLG wing from those molds this past week. You probably have more weight in paint on your D160 than my airframe weighs (10oz) ready to fly.

I've always been a composites geek but you motivated me to get off my duff and do something more. Again, thank you.
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Old Jun 14, 2010, 04:09 PM
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Bolton,England
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That's awesome to hear Tom...That's sort of the best thing about RCGroups nearly unlimited inspiration.
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Old Jun 17, 2010, 04:50 PM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
Geo420's Avatar
Wiggy Poo, England!
Joined Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by Pook View Post
That's awesome to hear Tom...That's sort of the best thing about RCGroups nearly unlimited inspiration.
Here Here!
Thanks RCG
George
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Old Jun 18, 2010, 08:46 AM
The Flying Kiwi
Mt Maunganui New Zealand
Joined Oct 2005
785 Posts
Sorry to hear of the loss of your latest 160 Joe. If its some help to you, I was the mechanical engineering manager of a plywood factory for 17 years. I was intimately involved with the complete process of turning logs into plywood.

If you can find a small specialist plywood factory,(like we were) you will find they can make you virtually any plywood you want. I suspect that what you need is close to whats known as LVL (laminated veneer lumber)

LVL is usually made like conventional plywood, but with the grain of each layer, oriented in one direction only. A possible problem with it, is that it can end up with similar splitting/ warping problems , as solid lumber. usually , but sometimes.

If you could find a cooperative manufacturer, They could make you a few sheets of plywood/ LVL, out of a suitable type and thickness of veneer, with the grain, oriented alternately, a few degrees (maybee 10 degrees?) or so to each other, either side of the centerline, to each layer. (fyi super compressed plywood, with the grain spread alternately a a few degrees apart, around 360 degrees, was used for timing gears of various engines during WW2)

You would end up with virtually end grain only plywood, for your shear webs (maybee 5 degrees either side of it), with enough crossover of grain to eliminate any possible warping etc and give you the stability, and more than enough strength to be suitable for your purposes.

I'm unsure what would be a suitable wood for your purposes, but I am shure someone will be familiar with a factory that is up to the challenge,(hopefully close to you)
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Old Jun 18, 2010, 09:01 AM
JWs are Shear Fun!
Aerogance's Avatar
USA
Joined Sep 2008
2,694 Posts
Good call Ralph. Typically we order custom face layups on plywood out here, but controlling the core layup could be the answer $$$.
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Old Jun 18, 2010, 10:46 AM
Stay in it!!!!
Riverside, California, United States
Joined Aug 2004
5,051 Posts
really no need as even the crappiest plywood still holds ten times (just a rough number) the compression and shear loads required by our models currently. Because we are using such thick sparcaps to avoid bending alltogether the shear web never really sees much load in comparison. Thats at least they way I understand it after reading the very helpfull thread started by, I think, rothisburger?

We are now using substantial amounts of tip weight so the bending loads are even less.
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 12:48 PM
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USA, CA, Santa Barbara
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whew. what a ride, i've been reading this thread from start to finish for the past two days (it's like a novel). i feel enthralled and inspired as ever.
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 07:20 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Riverside, California, United States
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whew. what a ride, i've been reading this thread from start to finish for the past two days (it's like a novel). i feel enthralled and inspired as ever.
Did you read part one first?
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 09:10 PM
JWs are Shear Fun!
Aerogance's Avatar
USA
Joined Sep 2008
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I would like to see Joe make another 160, with all the improvements he has developed to date. I can't imagine the cost and man hours involved, but at least the tooling is completed!
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Old Oct 26, 2010, 09:38 PM
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USA, CA, Santa Barbara
Joined Feb 2003
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Originally Posted by joe manor View Post
Did you read part one first?
No. This thread was linked elsewhere on another thread, but I will get to it next. The wind has been up in Santa Barbara so I need to go out and DS my Weasel first. It's not like the places in the videos linked but we have several peaks that are easy to get started making loops for DS newbies. Looking forward to part 3.
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Old Oct 27, 2010, 12:30 AM
JWs are Shear Fun!
Aerogance's Avatar
USA
Joined Sep 2008
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Originally Posted by macinr View Post
No. This thread was linked elsewhere on another thread, but I will get to it next. The wind has been up in Santa Barbara so I need to go out and DS my Weasel first. It's not like the places in the videos linked but we have several peaks that are easy to get started making loops for DS newbies. Looking forward to part 3.
Head up to the crest and East of Gibraltor. There is an insanely good NW-N facing part of the ridge. Watch out for passer-byers though.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 04:34 PM
hot air rises...
jfinch's Avatar
Pleasant Grove, UT
Joined Jul 2005
7,793 Posts
Hi Joe,



How did you fill in the area between the top and bottom skins at your TE? Epoxy splooge before mating the two halves? If so how do you clean up the area in front of the hinge (at each end of the hinge) for the wiper to slide? Dremel?

One more question, you mention a couple times in this thread that you use a kevlar live hinge with a backup of 3M5200. How is the 5200 applied?

Thanks for the thread it has been an inspiration and great source of info for me! I almost hate to resurrect it but I'm working though my own hollow molded issues...
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