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Old Jan 14, 2010, 05:18 PM
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Riverside, California, United States
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See post 1870 and 1871.
It depends on the color and the mold release used.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 12:51 PM
He bowls overhand
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Falcon, Colorado
Joined Oct 2004
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Lol.. "Post 1870 and 1871". Wow!
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 05:55 PM
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Time for wipers!

A few have been asking for some pics of how I do my wipers. My methods and materials have changed over the years and this is how I'm doing it now. stay tuned!
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 05:57 PM
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First you need some energy.

Red Bull does the trick.

I really should call this "control surface processing" as the surface needs to be cut and moving freely before you can do any wipers.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:00 PM
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Next you find your shiny stab and figure out the dimensions of your control surface.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:03 PM
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My elevator is 2" in from the tips and has a 2" chord. I use a square and mark lines with a pencil.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:05 PM
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Here are the lines marked on the bottom of the stab. The rear line is 1/16" forward of the hingeline and the forward line is 1/8" forward of that. I will have a 1/8" gap.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:09 PM
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Time to cut the ends. I use a razorsaw. The bearsaw (smaller one) from home depot works the best of the 4 or 5 that I own. This one has seen better days but still makes a decent cut.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:15 PM
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Riverside, California, United States
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Easy does it.

I have found that if you keep the saw in the flattest position possible it will not drift very much. Here it is shown about 45 degrees. If I were to hold it more vertical like 90 degrees it is very difficult to keep the line 90 degrees to the TE on both top to bottom and front to back. 45 degrees or shallower cut is best. Once I have got to the hingeline I know that I still need to go further forward on the bottom. I flip over the part and at 45 degrees cut forward until I reach the forward line for the hinge gap. Then I carefully cut the remaining material away making sure I dont go any further forward on either skin cut.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:19 PM
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Here are some pics of the finished end cuts.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:24 PM
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Next I cut the hingeline. I use an abrasive cutoff wheel and a light touch. Since this surface has a constand chord I can use my old trusty jig but for the wing I use a straight edge stuck down with double sided tape and freehand it. It is a scary do or die cut but I get lucky most of the time. Here is the cutter. I make about three or four passes until I see kevlar all the way across. I can cut in where needed with it and clean up small areas if I didnt go deep enough. As long as I dont apply too much pressure this doesnt cut through the kevlar at all.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:27 PM
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And the top is cut and looking good.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:28 PM
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I will continue this in a hour. I have to get in on some online golf!
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 07:08 PM
the occasional flyer
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Rexburg, ID
Joined Jul 2008
516 Posts
Joe,

When you do your live hinges, do you let the epoxy impregnate the kevlar, and then just work the hinge to get it moving, or do you impregnate it with something else to keep the epoxy out?

Thanks.

-David
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 07:13 PM
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Back to the fun stuff

Next I put a diamond wheel on the dremel and cut the forward cut first then the rear cut to make the gap.
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