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Old Apr 03, 2012, 10:58 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
2,880 Posts
Jack,
I used a half paralel DLRK Delta wind. Actually it was #23 AWG wire.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=964

I made a mistake on size. I will change it to what it should be. I did 2 others like that and it worked well in my twin Albatros seaplane. It had 10X7X3 GWS e props . Way over powerd. I had to de-prop it down to 8x6 Master Airscrew 3 blades. It is more managable and fits the plane better.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 03:30 PM
What goes up must come down..
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
1,724 Posts
I re-oil the bearings and re-wind the motor same as before with the same wire gauge etc..
Now for some reason I cannot bind my RX anymore using my DX5e?!
Strange...
So, I cannot tell how it sounds yet...as soon as I fugure whst's wrong I'll post gain.
With the old wire removed the motor looks and fell pretty good spinning wise..time will tell and with power run up with a balance prop...will see.
Later,
Roger
Note:
I was able to use a friend TX the motor is ready up and running I shall fly it this afternoon if my friend is off my DX5e is dead no output stage anymore..
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Last edited by rodair; Apr 06, 2012 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 06:37 AM
What goes up must come down..
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
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Jack,
I ran into a problem here, without a prop the motor is fine as soon as I prop it I lost power after 30 % throotle ( not an esc problem I ran another motor / prop no problem with prop)
what could it be? bad weld?
DVM show zero ohm between all 3 wires..stange.
Roger
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 07:49 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,218 Posts
Sounds like an weak or poor connection on one of the motor leads or ESC leads.

On the DVM, you should see a low resistance between any two connectors and all three pair combos (a-b, a-c, c-b) should be the same. The motor leads are joined into a common connection and the resistance will be the same across any two ends. It you touch your DVM probes together you should see just at the same resistance as you see across the motor leads. Maybe a little bit lower.

And if you touch one motor lead and the metal of the stator, that should be "open" or no resistance at all if there are not shorts. Some meters will display OL something like that but it basically will be same reading as you see when the probes are laying side by side and not touching.

Jack
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 05:38 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Hey guys - am just getting into Multicopters and managed to break DT750. Used the notes here to rewind it today and it looks like its going to be ok. Had a couple of quick flights with no problems so hopefully its going to be all good. Just a quick thanks to those who put so much info out there to help others.

Brenden
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 09:21 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Good for you. Now you'll have to rewind all the others too so you can get them all matched up, right?

Jack
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 03:57 PM
What goes up must come down..
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
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Jack,
I check with the DVM and all connections around 0.6-1.7 ohms so I redid the welding in case of and did get the same condition so I deceided to change Lipo.
Et voila that was it an old lipo that is not good anymore..so I plug ina 1800 mAh and a HD 11 x 8 prop...I am almost affraid of the static thrust now.
Roger
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 07:06 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Good for you! Now you can cruise around a half throttle or less between cheap thrills!

Did you check it for heating?

Jack
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 09:54 PM
What goes up must come down..
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
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Nope beraly get warm to the touch motor and ESC with 1 min throotle @ 50 % with few full throotle stick position, I would stamp it "Good to Go".
Roger
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 08:36 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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That's a winner then. The Half Parallel DLRK is the wind that has produced the "monster" DAT-750 motors for timocharis, truglodite, and the other guys that really brought this motor into the spotlight. I think it has handled over 420 Watts on 4S in a 20 turn or so wind (bigger wire) and with a Wye termination.

Those guys are more into flying for speed with the Piranha and the pylon racers and the like. Here are Geezerville Aerodrome we love the motor for it's wonderful mid throttle and mid RPM power with bigger and stronger slow fly props. It can make planes fly like a tractor or a Stearman biplane, the RPM never changes much as the plane simply churns through the air in any attitude.

Jack
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 11:47 AM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
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timocharis <-- geezoid got over the speed thang sometime in the previous decade
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 03:04 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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OK, my apologies for taking all of those years off of you!

Welcome to the older and smarter bracket!

Jack
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:11 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2007
1,504 Posts
Acceleration

Im putting some 3S 900 s behind my rewind

these cells can do 40 A,,,,, wow , with the bigger props and a very light front engine delta, type model ,with the DT on front, its just amazing , Ive got around 190 watts now , but the extra 100 watts will be,, well ,, its not the sheer speed , Im not after that ,,


but the pick up from the hover to a straight up climb , is just fast
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:48 AM
What goes up must come down..
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
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I'll have to find a way to make better transitions from AWG wire to connectors wire I saw your nice PCB plate Jack and it's really not expensive the hick is the 8 times of price tag for shipping.
Is there a trick to come close to the winds to weld transitions points ( thin to braided wire) ?
How about if I hot glue them in place after assy?
All comments welcome here.
Roger
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:03 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodair View Post
I'll have to find a way to make better transitions from AWG wire to connectors wire I saw your nice PCB plate Jack and it's really not expensive the hick is the 8 times of price tag for shipping.
Is there a trick to come close to the winds to weld transitions points ( thin to braided wire) ?
How about if I hot glue them in place after assy?
All comments welcome here.
Roger
The shipping is too high? Are you looking at getting them from Strong Motors?

http://www.strongrcmotors.com/Winding%20Terminators.htm

The photos Don has there are from me, they show how I did it, and they are attached here too.

Those terminators are the best way I have found on a open back CD-ROM motor. They are for 8mm tubes, I have drilled them out for use 10mm tubes too.

If you have a single strand coming through the Terminator you can strip it, fold it back so it forms a short tight "U" on the end, and then tin that. That will give you a small platform of sort where you can lay the flexible wire on the tinned "U" and make the union.

Even without the Terminator, or like in the back of a backplate type motor, you can make the flat, tight, tinned "U" shaped platform on the end to get a solid to flexible junction. But you should really work out some way to support the wire a little if the junction is just hanging out in the air...

Hot glue will give up when the wire gets hot but it might be worth a try. A small blob of JB weld may work as it handles higher temperatures.

Jack
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