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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:34 PM
SUCK LESS
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United States, IL, Lombard
Joined May 2009
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Would Revo Mix (or some other mix) in the transmitter be the answer? (honestly, I don't know either - just asking).
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:41 PM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by DMala View Post
Apologies if the question is stupid, but how was the mixing between the ESCs for the main motor and tail motor accomplished? Besides the gyro, don't you need a mixer when you have a separate tail motor?
No. The wiring can get a little tricky, but basically the rudder on the receiver connects to the motor and so does an HH Gyro. There is no mixing used.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 08:44 PM
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Isn’t the rudder channel slaved to the throttle? And the trick is, you need to hold the rudder stick all the way to the left on start up? Or something like that. Ran across a thread today about that very issue, but was looking for something else and forgot to bookmark it! DMN!
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 10:45 PM
Quark SG, Quark, mSR, mCX
linac's Avatar
Toronto, Canada
Joined Jun 2009
174 Posts
Hi Everyone:

I just received my SG blades and mounted them on the Quark. No mods are required and like others have reported, they perform very well and much better than the stock blades - better lift and smoother descents. Also, the blade pitch was decreased (by about half a turn on each screw) so I am no longer at max pitch anymore but I have not yet balanced the blades or checked the tracking.

With the SG blades I feel as if I've removed all-season tires from a BMW and put on high-performance tires instead! (Also, I'm on full expert/advanced settings). I would highly recommend the SG blades. Question for the Brotherhood: the SG blades are labelled, "A1", "C3", "G2", etc., does this mean anything? I was thinking that it could mean blades are in pairs, but I cannot determine a pattern from the labelling.

On a similar note but with a different heli, I've tried the Syma blades (with FR4-pilot's recommendation) on my mSR and it flies a bit different but cannot quite tell if it flies significantly better. I'll have to put in more flights.

Thanks.

-Linac
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 01:23 AM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starz View Post
Isn’t the rudder channel slaved to the throttle? And the trick is, you need to hold the rudder stick all the way to the left on start up? Or something like that. Ran across a thread today about that very issue, but was looking for something else and forgot to bookmark it! DMN!
I don't think that is necessary, since the HH gyro will drive the tail motor as hard as necessary. Initilization steps vary by ESC and gyro.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:01 AM
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New Jersey
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Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
I don't think that is necessary, since the HH gyro will drive the tail motor as hard as necessary. Initilization steps vary by ESC and gyro.
This is good news but it is surprising to me: on the Guru-Z and HBFP threads I have been reading all these posts of people using various 2-in-1s or 3-1s to mix the throttle signal between tail motor and main motor. So could I get rid of the 4-in-1 on my HBFP and replace it with a spektrum receiver, a HH gyro and two ESCs (maybe going full brushless in the process)? I probably wouldn't do it even if possible, but I am curious now.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 01:11 PM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by DMala View Post
This is good news but it is surprising to me: on the Guru-Z and HBFP threads I have been reading all these posts of people using various 2-in-1s or 3-1s to mix the throttle signal between tail motor and main motor. So could I get rid of the 4-in-1 on my HBFP and replace it with a spektrum receiver, a HH gyro and two ESCs (maybe going full brushless in the process)? I probably wouldn't do it even if possible, but I am curious now.
Don't you already have a belt-drive GuruZ? I'm having a hard time understanding why there would be a relationship between throttle and tail motor on an FP heli. The throttle just controls lift. More throttle means more torque, but the HH gyro should handle it.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 01:41 PM
Can't get enough
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United States, WA, Puyallup
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by Stenz28 View Post
My quark seems to be one of the "tail drifters". It will tend to rotate CW during a flight and I have to compensate with trim.

Since I had experience with this on my Blade 400, what I do is this:

Turn on the receiver.
Put the tail trim slider all the way to the left.
Turn on the Heli.

This way I have lots of right adjustment. I tried restarting the Heli part way through the flight but it didn't help.

Would be nice if I could fix the Quark the same way I fixed my Blade... With a GY401!

Ciao
I have the same problem, but halfway through the flight, the tail stays. It is really the only complaint I have, but through flying, adjusting isn't a big deal considering you are always trying to correct something in terms of movement etc. I love my quark and got a second one,,,,does the same thing lol
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 05:32 PM
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New Jersey
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Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
Don't you already have a belt-drive GuruZ? I'm having a hard time understanding why there would be a relationship between throttle and tail motor on an FP heli. The throttle just controls lift. More throttle means more torque, but the HH gyro should handle it.

You know I have the belt-tail Guru, you built it...
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 05:51 PM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by DMala View Post
You know I have the belt-tail Guru, you built it...
I knew there was a reason I thought you had one. Damn, I'm getting old and senile! Can't remember crap! One good thing about that is you're always meeting new people. I have a T-shirt that says: I may have Alzheimers, but at least I don't have Alzheimers.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 06:33 PM
Pontiac my other Obsession
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USA, FL, Apopka
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Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
I knew there was a reason I thought you had one. Damn, I'm getting old and senile! Can't remember crap! One good thing about that is you're always meeting new people. I have a T-shirt that says: I may have Alzheimers, but at least I don't have Alzheimers.
now thats funny!
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 12:47 AM
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Starz - I realize that you are getting great information from several dedicated posters on this site (Balr14 and FR4 just to name a couple), however I would like to chime in regarding your Quark tail drift issue from several posts back in time.

I own 3 FRP Quarks and I experience some tail drift from all of them (although some are better than others). However, in all cases.....I have my tail rotor trim initially set about half way from left to center....and as the heli warms up I start adding right tail rotor trim. One important note is that after I have adjusted the tail rotor trim to the right (or left for that matter while in flight), I work the tail rotor stick left to right and the collective up and down slightly to see if the new tail rotor trim setting holds the tail nicely. I continue to do this as necessary. In other words.....my experience is to not expect the tail rotor trim to lock in the tail rotor by itself in any case....if you know what I mean.

Also, it is mentioned in the manual to completely reboot the control unit when tail drift is experienced and reset accordingly prior to reinitializing the model. This may work as well, but I do not have the patience for this and my method has worked well with all of my Quarks in flight to negate the natural drift that will be experienced with this model.

Your issues are not crystal or signal related at all IMO.

Hope this helps.
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 07:22 AM
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I appreciate your input, StartOver.

I to, start with the rudder trim to the left of center, and it does in fact seem to help…somewhat. But my issue is that I shouldn’t have to “constantly” be correcting for tail drift during flight. I fully understand, and expect, that with a motor driven tail, that corrections are going to be necessary.

I have tried following the manual, where it actually says to restart the heli “if” it starts drifting. Well, just so you know, it had no appreciable effect.

I have a Walkera #4, which only cost me $66.00 new, which has a motor driven tail. Just to compare, I need only adjust for tail drift 2 to 3 times during a flight. Even my ultra ugly little Franken-copter, constructed of spare parts from several different brands, which also has a motor driven tail, holds much better then my Quark.

As far as I’m concerned, HIROBO dropped the ball on the tail design. Now don’t go getting me wrong here, I love the way the Quark flies! It is my #1 heli of choice, 2nd would be my 4#6-CB100, which can be flown using nothing but the trims, but that’s no fun! Also the 4#6 has a direct shaft driven tail with variable pitch, so I can’t compare that one to the Quark.

I’m still in the “thinking about it” stage, as far as replacing the control unit. But right now it looks like all I’ll need to buy for the conversion is a BL motor for the tail and at least 1 ESC, I have all the rest of the parts needed. Which doesn’t consist of much actually.

Mike
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 08:48 AM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by starz View Post
I appreciate your input, StartOver.

I to, start with the rudder trim to the left of center, and it does in fact seem to help…somewhat. But my issue is that I shouldn’t have to “constantly” be correcting for tail drift during flight. I fully understand, and expect, that with a motor driven tail, that corrections are going to be necessary.

I have tried following the manual, where it actually says to restart the heli “if” it starts drifting. Well, just so you know, it had no appreciable effect.

I have a Walkera #4, which only cost me $66.00 new, which has a motor driven tail. Just to compare, I need only adjust for tail drift 2 to 3 times during a flight. Even my ultra ugly little Franken-copter, constructed of spare parts from several different brands, which also has a motor driven tail, holds much better then my Quark.

As far as I’m concerned, HIROBO dropped the ball on the tail design. Now don’t go getting me wrong here, I love the way the Quark flies! It is my #1 heli of choice, 2nd would be my 4#6-CB100, which can be flown using nothing but the trims, but that’s no fun! Also the 4#6 has a direct shaft driven tail with variable pitch, so I can’t compare that one to the Quark.

I’m still in the “thinking about it” stage, as far as replacing the control unit. But right now it looks like all I’ll need to buy for the conversion is a BL motor for the tail and at least 1 ESC, I have all the rest of the parts needed. Which doesn’t consist of much actually.

Mike
You could call MRC. You might actually have a faulty control module (gyro).
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 10:44 AM
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New Jersey
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I have been following this discussions on the limitations of the Quark gyro and the need to adjust the rudder trim while flying. I would agree that a very large drift (say, requiring 1/2 or more of the trim adjustment available) is not normal. On the other side, after learning to fly the HBFP in nearly stock configuration, with its tail that more often than not is all over the place, I also learnt to compensate just by holding the rudder stick in the direction required, without even being aware of it, for say up to 25-30% of the adjustment available. I do not use the trim tab because I am not able to move it while flying, and it is disruptive to use it. At times I find myself doing the same for the Quark too, and it does not bother me because it has become an automatic response.
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