Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot

v-i-d-e-o!



Channel Change - Bummer! According to Augusto, the MiniTitan E325 SE (metal head & tail) is not available in the U.S. as a heli-only kit even though Thunder Tiger offers it that way elsewhere on the planet. Either heli + motor + ESC or all of that + carbon blades. I believe the plastic head & tail heli-only version is available here, and it's only around $130.00 ...

Yep, since they released the SE V2, TT is no longer distributing the original SE here. So whatever stock is left in the resellers inventory is it. Head components are all the same between all versions though.

Hey Linac, how are you doing; it's been awhile. I was referring to the location of the linkage balls on the stabilizer bar, washout assembly and seesaw, as shown in the images John posted here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=7645. If you have maxed those settings and are comfortable with them, you ARE good. I found the response to be too fast and extreme for my tastes. It requires a much more deft touch than normal settings and can move a lot before you realize it. I can fly with this setup, but it sure isn't relaxing!

Originally Posted by Balr14

If you have maxed those settings and are comfortable with them, you ARE good.

Hi Balr14:

At first the settings were quite intimidating to me (almost like going from the mCX to the Quark) but it's okay now (and makes my mSR feel sluggish now).

I would like to clarify that just because I am comfortable with max settings does not mean I am good! Thanks John.

-Martin

Originally Posted by linac

Hi Balr14:

At first the settings were quite intimidating to me (almost like going from the mCX to the Quark) but it's okay now (and makes my mSR feel sluggish now).

I would like to clarify that just because I am comfortable with max settings does not mean I am good! Thanks John.

-Martin

You have to take into consideration I'm old (67) and slow! But, you are right about it making an MSR feel sluggish. I'm thinking it's real good training for flying any CP heli.

Originally Posted by Balr14

You have to take into consideration I'm old (67) and slow! But, you are right about it making an MSR feel sluggish. I'm thinking it's real good training for flying any CP heli.

You are OLD!! In comparison, I'm just a youngster at 66!
Great hobby for us old retired dudes, eh?

Originally Posted by CCbusa05

You are OLD!! In comparison, I'm just a youngster at 66!
Great hobby for us old retired dudes, eh?

I'm a kid compared to you guys. I only just entered the same decade as you. Retirement wouldn't be nearly as tolerable without RC helis.

Retirement sucks! I've tried it for about 1 1/2 years and I don't like it. I've got a lot more time than money. I'm going back to work in October... for a Canadian company located in Ottawa; Data Kinetics.

wow, I find mine to be quite sensitive in the beginner settings, I would however like to diminish the see saw effect, nose up; I get the thing rocking and its a battle to settle in... maybe a little more practice will help only 6 flights so far...and two broken blades?? just when I think I am in control some crazy thing jumps in front of it!! lol

Originally Posted by Pontiaddict

wow, I find mine to be quite sensitive in the beginner settings, I would however like to diminish the see saw effect, nose up; I get the thing rocking and its a battle to settle in... maybe a little more practice will help only 6 flights so far...and two broken blades?? just when I think I am in control some crazy thing jumps in front of it!! lol

I used to have problems like that with a tree and antenna tower that lurk around my backyard, just waiting for me to try to fly something.

Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot

I had some time today to spend on that 6 cell series charger adapter I posted about earlier. Basically, taking 6 of the mCX/mSR 3.7V batteries and creating a 6S pack with balance tap that can be used with a computerized balancing charger (to see each battery's voltage as they charge, to be able to put a bunch into "storage" mode when needed, and to be able to stop using those E-Flite chargers that charge at 3C-ish and prematurely kill these little batteries).

Anyway, so far so good (see pics). This concept can also be used to balance charge two 3S B400/MiniTitan/TREX450 packs at a time, or three 2S Quark Rhino (or equiv) packs at a time (not the stockers - yet). As long as the charger supports 6 cells that is. The $25 Turnigy Accucell-6 does (as well as some other inexpensive chargers). I want to build two each of those adapters next ...

Charging Update: 45 minutes later the balance charge process completed!!! Just like it does when I charge a single 3S or 2s pack. Evidently I'm leaving about 25% in each pack when I stop flying.

Discharging Update: Flew each of the batteries with the mSR. Normal 4 minute flights with 4 of the newer batteries, around 3 minute flights with 2 of the older ones. Exactly as expected.

-John

Nice work. What is that you are using for the balance connector?

Are you going to sell those things? It looks like an insane amount of labor for each one. Maybe just sell a kit?

Originally Posted by DAC1

Nice work. What is that you are using for the balance connector?

Are you going to sell those things? It looks like an insane amount of labor for each one. Maybe just sell a kit?

Hey Dave - Thanks, I just used one of these Samtec sockets (we had a few laying around at work): http://www.samtec.com/documents/webfiles/pdf/BCS.PDF And, I guy I work with gave me the 6 micro connectors and JST connector - he ordered some extra parallel charge adapters from HobbyKing and gave me one - I quickly dissected it. It may have cost a buck or two - not sure. Probably no more than $5 in parts.

Actually - it started out as this: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arging_harness (one of those evil parallel charging adapters)

I could have bought an official JST-XH connector with wires but I would have had to order one, wait for it, etc. This was quick and dirty - just to see how everything would work.

A little PC board would make for a lot less assembly work, but that would cost more too. We'll see - I just wanted to throw it out there in case someone else may be interested in doing something similar. The adapters for the 2S and 3S packs might be better suited on a PC board ...

-John

Update: Hey, never mind on the two 3S charger adapter - it already exists: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...S%296S_w/_XT60

Is this a worthy upgrade in terms of weight? How much weight difference is the aluminum versus the carbon? I installed the led kit, and wanted to do some weight reduction. Also, I noticed the new tail fain is different then the one that came with my quark. Is it the same as the SG now? Thanks.


Justin

Originally Posted by jabsten

Is this a worthy upgrade in terms of weight? How much weight difference is the aluminum versus the carbon? I installed the led kit, and wanted to do some weight reduction. Also, I noticed the new tail fain is different then the one that came with my quark. Is it the same as the SG now? Thanks.
Justin

Hi Justin:

If I recall correctly, the CF boom will save about 1.5 grams of weight which is not significant in weight savings but will help just a bit with the relatively heavy load of the LED light kit. The CF is much stiffer than the Al boom and will hold its shape in crashes (and also looks good!). Another way I save weight sometimes is by using other lighter batteries such as the Rhino 360 or 460. Also, there has been recent discussion of better lift using the SG blades - which may also help with flight performance.

There are two tail fin versions of the quark, with newer fins being 77mm and older ones being 71mm. I do not know if this is the same as the SG. Have fun!

-Linac

Originally Posted by linac

Hi Justin:

If I recall correctly, the CF boom will save about 1.5 grams of weight which is not significant in weight savings but will help just a bit with the relatively heavy load of the LED light kit. The CF is much stiffer than the Al boom and will hold its shape in crashes (and also looks good!). Another way I save weight sometimes is by using other lighter batteries such as the Rhino 360 or 460. Also, there has been recent discussion of better lift using the SG blades - which may also help with flight performance.

There are two tail fin versions of the quark, with newer fins being 77mm and older ones being 71mm. I do not know if this is the same as the SG. Have fun!

-Linac

Thanks Linac, I guess the tail fin is used for both now. I bought some SG blades and will use as well. I might just get the CF boom. Also, should I laminate the SG blades like the regular ones? I know they are stronger, so I don't know if the added laminate will do much. Thanks!

Originally Posted by jabsten

Thanks Linac, Also, should I laminate the SG blades like the regular ones? I know they are stronger, so I don't know if the added laminate will do much. Thanks!

Hi Justin:

I have not heard of the SG blades being laminated by the Brotherhood and it may not be necessary as I also hear they are stronger than the SRB blades. Thanks.

-Linac