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Old Nov 09, 2007, 11:53 PM
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mauiguy99's Avatar
Kahului, Hawaii, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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How do I make a tight z-bend?

My latest Arrow is almost ready to go. I just have to make the aileron linkages. After putting together a dozen or so DLG's I have learned many tricks and have come to obsess about tight slop free linkages.
I still have yet to make an aileron linkage with zero slop. I want to make some really tight z-bends but havn't been able to figure out a way to make the center length of the Z small enough. I want 2 sharp 90 degree bends with only 1-2 mm in between. Does anyone know a good way to bend such small Z bends?
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 03:01 AM
Registered User
Austria
Joined Oct 2003
304 Posts
Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by mauiguy99
I want to make some really tight z-bends but havn't been able to figure out a way to make the center length of the Z small enough.
Could not get slop free Z-Bends either. A "secured" L-Bend works better for me.

Regards,
Matthias
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 03:18 AM
Newbie but not too new!!
Lexington NC
Joined Dec 2004
297 Posts
Z-Bend Pliars?
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 09:06 AM
Duane
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No. VA
Joined Nov 2004
1,426 Posts
If the pushrod is metal, you can put a tiny drop of medium/thick CA on the control horn hole after the pushrod is inserted. After the CA cures (maybe use a tiny bit of accelerator), move the pushrod to break it free from the CA. Linkage should be slop-free.
Note that this will make it very difficult to remove the pushrod.
Don't do this with a carbon pushrod, or any other material that the CA will stick to.

Because of the geometry (cross-section of 90 degree bend is wider than cross-section of straight wire), it's nearly impossible to make a Z-bend that is both removeable and slop-free.
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 09:55 AM
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Kahului, Hawaii, United States
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Matthias, I like you system. what are you using to bend the wire?
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 10:14 AM
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Austria
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Just normal (narrow) pliers.

Matthias
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 10:46 AM
dougmontgomery's Avatar
Glendale,Az.
Joined Oct 2004
3,539 Posts
another option

this is what I have been doing and really simple.

bend your L bend on one side
slide a piece of small heat shrink about that is about full length
1/4" from each end
bend your control arm side L bend
then slide a piece of 1mm carbon through the heat shrink
Ca on drip so it runs down the heat shrink inside against the wires
heat
Doug
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 04:39 PM
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Shaper Dave's Avatar
Oahu Hawaii
Joined Aug 2004
1,061 Posts
Pete,

Don't use Z bends. Just do the 90 bend and add a small piece of the pushrod tubing on the outside with a drop of CA. Zero slop and cleaner set up.

Dave
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 05:13 PM
Jesper Frickmann
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Raleigh, North Carolina, USA
Joined Aug 2005
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You can also use this or that.
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 06:23 PM
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United States, FL, Gainesville
Joined Dec 2005
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Us Dave's are going to stick together, no Z bends.
Dave
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 06:40 PM
Registered User
Congress, AZ
Joined Sep 2001
4,920 Posts
What Matthias or Dave said. I use both/either.

If use use the L bend with a tube keeper, then be certain to point the L bend to the outside of your launch, so that if you loose the tube, the L bend might stay in.

Z bends aren't slop free.
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Old Nov 10, 2007, 08:46 PM
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United States, VA, Warrenton
Joined Apr 2001
1,148 Posts
Dave F., how do you get the perfect length? Even with extremely careful measurement, it seems like you might end up slightly off with the bends and then you'd have to offset the servo arm a bit to compensate.

~Dan
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Old Nov 11, 2007, 06:49 AM
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United States, FL, Gainesville
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It's not as hard as it looks, plus you have a little adjustment available with the angle at the end of the long straight part. Wire is cheap ,they're quick to make, and with a little practice you'll get it. This method was from the Encore build instructions.
Dave
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Old Nov 11, 2007, 07:49 AM
Looking for lift...
Milford, NJ
Joined Mar 2005
489 Posts
Dave,

What size wire are you using?

Doug
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