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Old Sep 24, 2012, 09:35 PM
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rayonnair's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmaniac098202 View Post
I'm planning on building one with :
Some $T Foam with paper
No carbon support
1 HS-65HB
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_14sec.html
2 HXT900
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cro_Servo.html
7x4 prop
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_set_.html
RX
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Sat_Port_.html
30A Turnigy ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html
EMAXX CF2812
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_1534kv.html
Turnigy nano-tech 1300
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

Possible? This is similar to my f22 scratchbuild designed by dekan. Stuff preferably from HK, so I can just shop at one place :P.

~Nick
Hey! The MDC F-14 was my second scratchbuild after dekan's EPP F22 .

On the HS-65HB: to use that servo for sweep you have to concentrate to make the wing sweep movement very, very smooth. Talcum powder, teflon paper, the works. I'd use a stronger servo, do read the thread and see the many tricks people have tried. Some have had luck with the HS-85MG. I personally went overboard and stuck something full size in there after my first servo burned out in flight.

"No carbon support": I wouldn't, but I don't know the characteristics of $T foam. There is very minimal CF reinforcement in the MDC F-14 and I suspect all of them serve an important purpose.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 09:51 PM
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I built a Foam Board (with paper) F-14 several years back and it flew without Wing Sweep. If you will be sweeping the wings I think you'll see flexing in the foam baord with out some stiffeners. You can take the small 2-3 mm carbon rods sharpen one end on a grinder and place the other end in your cordless drill and line it up in the foam between the paper and drill it into the wing panels. It will add lots of stiffness with practically no weight gain. It can only help.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
Hey! The MDC F-14 was my second scratchbuild after dekan's EPP F22 .

On the HS-65HB: to use that servo for sweep you have to concentrate to make the wing sweep movement very, very smooth.
Slightly confused there...?
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robrotor View Post
Check out page 34 for build pics and details
Thanks!
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Getting troubled with all the Carbon tubes, there are so many! Can someone help me and find a carbon tube/reinforcement that will work with 5mm $T foam board? I don't have many fancy tools at my disposal (which is why I try to avoid Carbon Tubes)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...SortOrder=desc

Anyone know if my setup will work?
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 01:51 AM
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If you are using the HS-65 to move the wings inwards and outwards, you will need to ensure that the wings move smoothly without friction or binding or any impedance at all, else the servo will not be up to the task. You need to do that anyway, you just need to be particularly careful about that with the HS-65. Another option is to use a more powerful servo but that adds otherwise unwanted weight.

You will need some CF strips that are 5mm wide by 1mm tall. Looking at hobbyking I don't see these available. Maybe you can try your local hobby shop? (Incidentally, do make sure that the $T foam is actually 5mm thick. At my local art supply place, the depron is labeled 5mm but is actually 6mm.)

You will also need a CF rod of 3mm diameter, if you're going according to the plans.

Cutting CF doesn't really need fancy tools. I use a pair of scissors to cut mine. Because the scissors will also crush the CF at the end you are cutting, you need to cut the CF a bit longer than you need (typically about 6+mm longer), and then sand it to length. I use a relatively rough sandpaper (80 grit).
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 07:03 AM
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The foam board with the paper on both sides will create a better sliding surface than the depron. I have built many foam board planes and they will flex. With the Tomcat wings being fairly thin in cross section they will bend and possible crush under load without some carbon supports.
At most every Hobby store you will find a selection oc carbon rods available. Most foam board is actually 3/16" thick which is 4.8 mm so I really reccomend carbon in those wings.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Compared to Hitec, CHEAP! Would this work?

Turnigy MG90S
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_10sec.html

vs.

Hitec:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_14sec.html
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:39 PM
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I don't see why not, the specs seem the same, plus it's actually MG as opposed to the karbonite gears the hitec has.

I would still use a stronger servo, but that is just personal to me. Doing surgery to replace the servo wasn't very difficult so there's always an option to change it later.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
I don't see why not, the specs seem the same, plus it's actually MG as opposed to the karbonite gears the hitec has.

I would still use a stronger servo, but that is just personal to me. Doing surgery to replace the servo wasn't very difficult so there's always an option to change it later.
I would get a larger servo, but I'm on a budget. I've made 2 of dekan's F22's and I still have to maiden one! Over spending this year. Oh well...
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
If you are using the HS-65 to move the wings inwards and outwards, you will need to ensure that the wings move smoothly without friction or binding or any impedance at all, else the servo will not be up to the task. You need to do that anyway, you just need to be particularly careful about that with the HS-65. Another option is to use a more powerful servo but that adds otherwise unwanted weight.

You will need some CF strips that are 5mm wide by 1mm tall. Looking at hobbyking I don't see these available. Maybe you can try your local hobby shop? (Incidentally, do make sure that the $T foam is actually 5mm thick. At my local art supply place, the depron is labeled 5mm but is actually 6mm.)

You will also need a CF rod of 3mm diameter, if you're going according to the plans.

Cutting CF doesn't really need fancy tools. I use a pair of scissors to cut mine. Because the scissors will also crush the CF at the end you are cutting, you need to cut the CF a bit longer than you need (typically about 6+mm longer), and then sand it to length. I use a relatively rough sandpaper (80 grit).
Be very careful with the sanding and cutting. Don't breath in any of the cf dust as it will go thru your lungs into your blood stream. Also don't pierce yourself with it as it all go into your blood stream and may end up in the walls of your heart. Beware of open cuts. If you use a scissors, use the curved type for cutting stranded cables. Also apply some ca glue to the cut / crushed ends to seal in all the loose strands.

And try to do it outdoors if at all possible and wear eye protection and nose filters / gas-masks

chewy
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 04:55 AM
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Thanks chewy for the tips. I actually recall trying to do some research on this but doing this kind of research on the internet with me not being a doctor involves wading through a minefield of FUD. In the end I stuck with eye protection (for shards, not for dust so they're not goggles), and wet-sanding.

I guess it couldn't hurt to buy a pack of disposable masks too, and do the sanding outdoors instead of indoors.

My takeaway on all that research was that life is bad for you and an overdose of life will surely kill you.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:11 PM
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I went with a 3kg full size servo for sweep at any speed. It sticks out the bottom of the center tunnel a little and may add a little weight but the plane is so fast anyway that I usually fly at half to three quarters thottle so proformance isn't affected at all for me. At least I don't have to worry if the wings will swing forward when I need them to. Robert
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:55 PM
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My takeaway on all that research was that life is bad for you and an overdose of life will surely kill you.
Eventually for sure
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 07:07 PM
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United States, DE, Rehoboth Beach
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what is the finished length?
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