|Oct 28, 2007, 02:36 PM|
RC parapente: Easy to build, Fun to fly!
weightshift small indoor
NEW XXXXXS weightshift paramoteur (34cm span)
good vid, flying with minimal wind on a very small dune
I am a paraglider pilot AND addicted to RCflying. combined with the need to build everything myself instead of buying standard stuff gives sometimes fun results .
I wanted an rc paraglider. There are some good model flying around and I'm also trying to make one like this:
This glider is made by Nace and with his help (thank you nace!) I think my parapente will also fly very well.
But... This one is not ready yet.
A lot of people are not very handy with a sowing machine. So I made a small one a year ago. this one was very good but a little underpowered.. Lately I got the idea of making a new one with some better materials.
This was a movie I made from the first prototypes:
The motorunit is made from SatÚ-sticks (bamboo). but you can also use other wood, glass or Carbon sticks. Glue them together with CA. then wrap sowing wire around the connections (a lot) and put more CA on it. Works great .
Motor is a GWS motor (tailmotor of little heli). 2S300mah lipo, gws pico 4 receiver.
The canopy looks a bit difficult to make, but it's sooooo simple! First it's importend to choose a good airfoil. I used a homemade (draw a line...). These little parapentes can be very twichy, so you need to have enouh reflex in the airfoil. This means the TE must point a little UP.
The ribs are made of depron. Here they are 3mm but 6 is much better.
The canopy itself is made of thin plastic (garbage bag). cut out a rectangular piece of 70x17cm. (or wathever you want). and glue the depron ribs on it with dubble side tape or UHU por.
The lines are all the same. front are 40cm and back are 42.
oh, good to say: the original idea is not mine... I found some beautiful pics on the web but never found out from who it was...
Now I made a new one with a homemade cd-rom motor, towerpro 9grams servo, 3S360mah, 7x4 prop and a small receiver.
The canopy is a little bit curved and ribs made of 6mm depron. Much better!!!
The lines are a bit to long but I used thicker wire wich is also much better.
Another improvement is the line plan itself. I advise to use for the length around 2/3 of the span of the canopy. I'll draw later how I did this lineplan very easy.
Steering is done by weighshift. all the lines are attached to ONE servo.
first a little movie:
very bad picture:
I'll post some more (better) pics if someone is interestet.
And also of my new canopy I made. 1m span, High A/R with an existing airfoil (Abrial17-bis). Can't wait to see that one fly .
Oh and this is me duneflying in the Netherlands:
|Oct 28, 2007, 04:39 PM|
yes, indeed. That's the trick when flying this thing. You only have throttle and steering. No up... So when you enter a turn, you must give a lot more throttle. the harder the turn, the more throttle is needed to stay level. When you exit the turn, you have to release the throttle of course .
In the beginning it's not easy, but once you get it, you can make very smooth turns.
|Oct 30, 2007, 03:02 PM|
Here are some more pics:
here is my new High A/R canopy with the same principle. Hope it will work, it "feels" good in my hands. But first I want to adjust the steering. The space between the guidingrings must be a little bit wider.
And my friend who works at a kiteshop has made a beautiful canopy for me. 2 metre span according to the information I got from Nace.
Going to test it as soon as I got a steering thing.
|Sep 24, 2008, 04:00 AM|
Sow, long time since I posted here.
I've been working on some other things, but I needed to build a new small paramoteur. You can fly it allmost every calme evening and it's never boring .
The blue high a/r parapente from above wasn't flying good. too unstable. Finally I made a new carriage. The goal now was to make it smaller and it worked!
2S135mah lipo, 5gr hobbycity outrunner with 4.5x3 gws prop, 6a esc, MZK Penta and ONE 4.3gr cheap servo from hobbycity.
Total weight is 36 grams, ready to fly
wingspan is 34cm. It flies really stable, can fly fast, but also slow. More then enough power (can allmost loop constant..)
here is a small vid, not good quality, but it works... The wind was still a little bit too much for such a small one. we are standing between buildings, so sometimes it was good and sometimes the wind came trough, lot of fun! Still pretty stable for it's size..
The carriage is acutally what's left of this one after a lot of crashes trying to fly it with a much tooo big parapente!
My little bear has to find some new transportation
|Sep 24, 2008, 04:39 AM|
This is very cool, I think you've done a really good job...nice!
Here is something I was wondering about.
1)Gliding parachutes and paragliders fly without any reflex in their wings. They have double surface airfoils which are probably more inherently pitch stable.
2) For low speed low Re number flying (read slow RC flying) a flat wing performs about as well as a built up airfoil. At low speed, the flat plate airfoil will want to pitch up.
1) + 2) = Can you build a good flying "more simple" single surface canopy using straight ribs...no camber, no reflex?
|Sep 24, 2008, 05:28 AM|
Answer: NO. In theory maybe it's possible. but it will be very unstable and collapse... I made some single skin parapentes without reflex, but they where too hard to fly. If you fly indoor without turbulance at one speed it flies good, but if there is ONE disturbence (you steering of turbulance), it will pitch up or down resulting in a collapse.
If the weight of the carriage is enough you could fly it, but it's not easy.
point 1 isn't totally correct. There are enough real parapentes with reflex.
A good one is this:
My first one had a huge relfex, it was an ADG Ta´ga (DHV1). can't find the picture now, but you could see it good.
But most performance parapentes have less reflex or even none. But they are indeed less stable..
The small parapentes I make are only controlled by trottle and weightshift. Therefore you can't control it like a real one to avoid collapses. Another big thing is the wind. A little gust from an open door is something like 5 BF gust on a real one. So you really need the stability .
mhh. I have a 2gr outrunner, 1S esc and a toki biowire... that could be around 10 grams I think...
EDIT: My 1e own parapente, ADG Ta´ga with reflex on the top surface
|Sep 24, 2008, 05:50 AM|
Thanks for the feedback. I've had something like this on my mind for a while now. With indoor season starting up it might be time to give it a try.
Have you tried using 2 servos with 3 ch control to allow pitch control in addition to steering control?
|Sep 24, 2008, 07:39 AM|
If you look good at the 2 pictures with the little teddy, you see 2 servo's. I had the front lines on the cariage fixed and the back lines on the servo's. It did work a little, but it is very difficult to set up. The angle of attack must be good and with 4 line control you will change that when steering. Maybe with some higher wingloading and a stable planform it will be possible.
But the advantage of only weightshifting (one servo) is huge .
Once you set it up right, you put a drop of CA on the connection point of the lines and they will never change. So everytime you pick it up, it will fly good. Also with crashes, there is less chance of breaking the servo and it will be les spagetti with the lines.
another advantage of one servo is the fun of flying. It takes some practise before you can make a nice 8 close to the ground. Throttle back when going straight and more power in the corners.
You also could say this is a Dis-advantage of course ... Because you can't flaire for a landing (brake) and you can't fly at different speeds while staying on one altitude.
The big double skin parapente is flying with 2 servo's. That works fine for that one, but that's different. The front lines there are not 1 of the 2 lines holding a rib, but 4 of the 5 lines. So most of the parapente will not change as you steer.
I'm working on a system to ad weightshift to the big doubleskin. Then you can do a lot more !
If anyone has build one, of is building one, please post it here!
I had many emails from over the world via youtube and rcgroups about this little thing, but I haven't seen any others yet!
|Sep 24, 2008, 10:09 AM|
Joined Oct 2004
if you had the lines going to a triangle shaped frame, where the front lines are attached to the front vertex of the frame and the back lines to the two rear vertices, then fixing the dolly to the same frame with a ball link on the front and two servos on the back will mean that you will be weight shifting both sideways and fore-aft, and will probably only require a simple taileron mix as used in a flying wing. You probably wouldn't need the triangular subframe at all, but looks like a way to keep all line tidy, and the same setup could well be used with the front lines going to two points and the rear lines to one. Just a tought, in THEORY it should work, but I barely know what I am talking about here
|Sep 29, 2008, 07:40 AM|
Joined Mar 2002
I made a para wing years ago but never flew it (and since lost it). Can you advise on a few simple questions to help me start again ?
1) What is a good wing section ? (is normal Clark-Y OK or does reflex help a lot ?)
2) Where should the opening and exit be for air flow through the wing section (between the upper and lower surface)
3) what is a good ratio of wing span to chord
4) I am aiming to fly it indoors, what would be a good size and target weight ?
Sorry for lots of questions
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