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Old Dec 04, 2002, 03:02 PM
Thats NOT indestructible
j8m8l's Avatar
London UK
Joined Apr 2002
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RC-Cams Nav-Lights

Hi

I am planning on building this, http://rc-cam.com/navlight.htm to keep me busy during the winter holidays, but would like to make a PCB for it

This is my first time designing PCB's and was wondering if ne one out there could give me a hand

The problem i see is that there are LOADS of intercrossing wires, which would be hard/impossable to rearange into tracks

Attached is the schematic

Thanks

Josh
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Old Dec 04, 2002, 03:11 PM
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yb2normal's Avatar
Broomfield, CO, USA
Joined Jan 2001
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A two sided board would probably do the trick, with through-holes to move the signals between the two layers.

Search the 'net for a free pcb layout tool called 'Eagle', you can get a free version that will do two sided boards.

Regards,
Bill
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Old Dec 04, 2002, 04:39 PM
Official Old Git!
Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2000
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j8m8l,

I'm intending to lay out a PCB for this project (using 'Eagle' - highly recommended) but it won't be double-sided thro' hole plated! Can't do that stuff easily at home!

I've already tried a programmed pic - and that seems to basically work (after I found a documentation error in RC-CAM's docs - which is now fixed!)

I done quite a few PCB's using Eagle - so I should be able to do it, no probs!

Will make the pcb layout available when I get around to it (busy putting together a Herr Engineering Piper Cub at this instant!)
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Old Dec 04, 2002, 08:09 PM
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good point about the double sided thing, definitely not easy to do at home.

On the Eagle website they list a bunch of companies that can take the eagle files and produce a board for you. A couple of the overseas companies could do it relatively cheap, around $3 or $4 per board, if you ordered around 25 or so.

Something to think about anyway if you can generate the interest!
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Old Dec 05, 2002, 12:55 AM
T:W>1= :>)
rc-eflyer's Avatar
St. Louis, Missouri, United States
Joined May 2002
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j8m8l,

Here's a picture of the type of project board
I used on mine. The layout makes it very easy
to do this project. Use the long runs as your
v+ and ground busses.

Just cut the board horizontally right after the
second buss run from the top with a saw. Of
course the components are inserted on the
opposite side
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Old Dec 05, 2002, 12:56 AM
T:W>1= :>)
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St. Louis, Missouri, United States
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Here's the finished product:
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Old Dec 05, 2002, 07:22 AM
Thats NOT indestructible
j8m8l's Avatar
London UK
Joined Apr 2002
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WOW

Thanks Norman Adlam, I would appreciate that

I can do 2 x Sided, but only at school, and i dont really wanna go there in the holiday

Cant you just etch one side and then the other?

rc-eflyer

That looks like a good method, I guess that i will try that with some strip board, and just remove the strips where needed, using one of those tools, should work

What wire did you use to join up the components?

The reason that I wanted to use a PCB, was that i thought it would be a good step in my electronics projects, requiring more time, but making something really cool

My dad is an EE, but when he did this stuff, they used wire wrap, and those tools are EXPENSIVE

Thanks

Josh
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Old Dec 05, 2002, 07:29 AM
Thats NOT indestructible
j8m8l's Avatar
London UK
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OOPS....

rc-eflyer

how much did the components cost for you, and where did you get the LEDS?

I have not done PIC's before, but i have the hex, so it cant be too hard

I am planning on buying the poptronics programer and making it myself, or asking a friend to program one for me

Josh
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Old Dec 05, 2002, 05:31 PM
T:W>1= :>)
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St. Louis, Missouri, United States
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j8m8l,

I had a lot of the component on hand so I only
really had to purhase the PIC ($1.50) and the
LEDS ($7.00). If you place your components
strategically on the board you'll only need 3 or
4 pieces of wire (I used 26AWG). The wire for
the LEDs is 30AWG Keynar wire. The LEDS came
from SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
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Old Dec 08, 2002, 10:20 AM
Official Old Git!
Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2000
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j8mql,

Rc-cam now has a single side layout up on his site! Only problem (I think) is that it is done as a Adobe PDF and that (for me) tends to give hassle printing out the correct size board - still it's great that he has done this!

The board is small, and may be a little fine for home developing - I've just about finished mine (done using Eagle). I've made it slightly bigger than Rc-cams, with thicker tracks to aid doing such things at home. If all looks ok I'll make the Eagle schematic / brd available to anyone who wants it!

I want to add extra function to the board - so having the schematic and board files in Eagle will allow me to do that!

Cheers,
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Old Dec 08, 2002, 10:42 AM
Thats NOT indestructible
j8m8l's Avatar
London UK
Joined Apr 2002
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Hey Norman

I have seen mr cams pcb (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...threadid=75542) but would love your board to play about with too.

What do you etch in, could i just fill my stainless sink with ferric chloride, or should i get one of those trays?

Are any of you willing to forward a package of 7 leds from mouser to me, i cant get the high power ones here in england

I am going to buy the poptronics pic programmerhttp://www4.tpg.com.au/users/talking/MultiChipPgmr-Intro.html

My school did say that i could use their bubble tanks and UV box, but school is out on thurs, so i will have to get it done before them and i dont think i have the time

Thanks

Josh
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Old Dec 08, 2002, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Only problem (I think) is that it is done as a Adobe PDF and that (for me) tends to give hassle printing out the correct size board
I added a TIF file to the NavLights artwork file set. This will help those that do not have good luck with PDF's. With the TIF, you can edit trace widths using your drawing program. I hope this helps everyone out.

RC-CAM
www.rc-cam.com
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Old Dec 08, 2002, 02:54 PM
Official Old Git!
Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2000
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j8mql,

I print the PCB layout onto an overhead projector film (the stuff with a roughend side designed for ink-jets) using an ink jet printer. Expose it onto already coated positive- resist PCB. Then develop it using PCB devloper (or very diluted Sodium Hydoxide), then etch in Ferric Choride. (PCB devloper is preferred as it is safer!)

I don't use anything fancy - just plastic container that we collect from having Chinese meals! I just lay the board copper side up and 'swirl' the developer / ferric chloride over it (so don't even need a bubble tank!)

I'd suggest you don't use anything metal - Ferric Chloride has a habit of staining evrything (particularly clothes, fingers etc).

Cheers,

By the way you can easily get the ultra bright LEDs in the UK. Look at www.maplin.co.uk. or from Farnell or CPC.
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