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Old Oct 04, 2007, 10:47 AM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
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My first Land Yacht

Here is a link to a discussion of my first land yacht.
http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/showthread.php?t=4157
Just click on the photos to enlarge.

I'm in the process of making the sail and I'd like help on how to attach it to
the mast. The sail will probably be mylar or Tyvek. My wife had some silver
mylar and if she can find it I'll try it.

Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.

John
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Old Oct 04, 2007, 11:55 AM
Useful Idiot
Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
3,545 Posts
Your mast is short at 24". You could have a look at the "Footie" section of rcsailing.net for ideas on sail material, although you are presumably using a una rig for the land yacht. The plastic wrapping from florists is a good idea (cut it with a pointed soldering iron to prevent it tearing so easily or seal the edges with adhesive tape) and your wife may be impressed with the flowery bits.
The mast on my salboats is over twice the length and the florists wrap has stood up well.
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Old Oct 04, 2007, 02:53 PM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
Martin,
"Your mast is short at 24"."
Remember that your sail boat has the advantage of a keel with lead weight
that makes the CG much lower, this allows for a larger sail.
Dirt boats only have the wheelbase and what weight the frame and R/C gear
adds which is above dirtline (waterline for a boat). This puts the CG much
higher not allowing for bigger sail. In light wind a bigger sail can be used.

Also, the sail I'm going to first try is 24" high but the CF mast is 27".

I'll have to look into the flower shop wrap if my wife can't find the silver mylar.
Thanks,

John
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Old Oct 04, 2007, 04:35 PM
Registered User
Cedar Glen, CA
Joined Jan 2006
228 Posts
I just made a luff sleeve for my class 1 land yacht. Have never had a problem with it. I made the sail out of ripstop and it works just fine. Do realize that your yacht will be taking a lot of hard knocks unlike what a normal sailboat has to endure.
Bob
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Old Oct 04, 2007, 09:38 PM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
Bob,
Nice lookig boat there!
I do need more detail on the sail, boom attachment and what a "vang" is. The latter was suggested by Bill Korsgard.

My concern is, what keeps the sail and boom from sliding down the mast?
The plans on the IRCSSA site that I based my boat on does not give details for these items. The pattern for the sail shows extra material for making a sleeve for both the mast and boom but again no details on attachment. So I'm a little confused.

For sails, I picked up some clear plastic from the flower shop in town. 40" wide x 72" long, should make a few sails. Also, how do you make the stiffeners in the sail?

John
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Old Oct 05, 2007, 12:30 AM
Registered User
Cedar Glen, CA
Joined Jan 2006
228 Posts
On sailboats a vang attaches from the mast to the boom aft of the mast because it would get in the way of a jib. Since land sailers have no jib you can put it foward of the mast. The pic should show you the style that I built and I think it is fairly typical. First I made a collar that fit tightly around my mast; which is a 3/8" wood dowel. I, then drilled a hole straight thru for a 2-56 bolt to make my pivot point. I bent a couple of thin brass strips to shape and soldered them to some brass tubing that fit my aluminum tubing for the boom. Slipped it over the mast and put the pivot screw in and ya got it. For the top of the mast I just made a cap with an eye on it. I am glad I made the way I did because it has saved the tip of my mast dragging on the asphalt. The vang and the shrouds all attach at one point on the mast. I have a bowsie on the vang and homemade turnbuckles on the shrouds. Use double sided tape to make your sleeves and I used styrene strips for battens.
Bob
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Old Oct 05, 2007, 07:38 AM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
Thanks for the details Bob!

John
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Old Oct 06, 2007, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Madison, Wisconsin USA
Joined Aug 2006
99 Posts
Bob,
Good idea for the vang arrangement. It's similar to what I've done (see pic)
which was necessitated as a means of providing leech tension without impeding rotation of the wingmast.
John,
I look forward to seeing your progress as you build, please post some pictures
Regards,
Bill K
http://www.iceboat.org/RCBoats/rc%20boats.htm
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Old Oct 06, 2007, 02:21 PM
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Cedar Glen, CA
Joined Jan 2006
228 Posts
Thanks Bill, actually, I think mine is an interpretation of what you did and just worked within my medium; metal. Still looking for the ideal wheels before I start my next one. Just feel like there gotta be something out there. I like the airplane wheels, but not sure if I will use them. It would be nice to find some miniature bicycle wheels or something on that genra.
Bob
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Old Oct 06, 2007, 08:22 PM
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doomracing's Avatar
United States, NY, Buffalo
Joined Mar 2002
1,385 Posts
look at inline skate wheels. i believe they have bearings for the axial. i have considered a land yacht. problem is the parking lot i'd like to play on isn't very smooth, and where i used to race my cars the owners kicked me out, but i was flying my heli witch probably was the issue.

what does it cost to build one, and any good sites to get kits? what's the price range on kits? any distributors in the US?
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Old Oct 06, 2007, 10:23 PM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
Ok, photos below of my progress.

Built a more traditional vang. With this arrangment I can try different sails
without changing the mast. I know with the way the boom attaches to the
mast that it will pivot up slightly as it moves away from center but it's not
noticable.

Now I need to make the sail.

John
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Old Oct 07, 2007, 08:57 AM
Registered User
Madison, Wisconsin USA
Joined Aug 2006
99 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by doomracing
look at inline skate wheels. ...
what does it cost to build one, and any good sites to get kits? what's the price range on kits? any distributors in the US?
Hi Doom,
Inline skate wheels will work, but tend to have alot of side slippage when the wind pipes up. Foam model airplane wheels work great, but need to have bearings retrofitted for top performance. A scratch built basic model can be put together for less than $50 (less electronics) or less, depending on what sort of stuff you have laying around in your shop. Here are some links to the US kit suppliers that I am aware of:

http://www.modellandyachts.com/ Robert Weber
http://www.rclandsailing.com/ Kris Seluga
http://iceboats.tripod.com/ Tony Johnson
http://www.modelsailingcenter.com/ Steve Lang

Regards,
Bill K

ps to John: Looking good!!!
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Old Oct 07, 2007, 11:10 AM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,207 Posts
Hello John -

Have been watching the two threads, and the photos of your steering system prompted me to ask if it is custom fabricated - or purchased?

I have a "skeleton" backbone assembly with wheels and have the rear axles done, but after several starts on the front steering assembly, I got disappointed in trying to reduce weight and make it "look" good.

If yours was purchased, any chance to advise from where? It kind of looks like one that I saw on one of the European (French ??) web sites. I would guess Bill has given up on my ever completing the thing....

Thanks
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Old Oct 07, 2007, 06:18 PM
"Superior Air Power"
War Bird Radio's Avatar
Stayton, Oregon, USA
Joined May 2003
1,255 Posts
Dick,
The steering assembly was fabricated. The yoke, the gray part, is made from
a piece of 1/2" PVC sheet. I drew the geometry of what I wanted on a piece
of paper and used it for a templete. Used a small band saw to cut PVC, used
a file to round off the corners that slip into the main aluminum tube. Instead
of a fork to hold the wheel I made a mono strut from a piece of 1/8"
welding rod with flux knocked off. The rod was bent to shape with a small
hobby vise and hammer using the drawing I made to keep the geometry
correct. Where the rod passes through the yoke there is a brass bushing
between them. The steering arm at the top is just a standard servo arm with
the center drilled out so it will just barly slip on the rod. The arm is epoxied
to the rod, there's a 4-40 washer under it.

It wasn't too hard once I thought about it and saw what I had on hand.

BTW; The ball links are DuBro, push rod cables are Sullivan Gold-N-Cables
#507 and DuBro EZ connects at the servo.

John
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Old Oct 07, 2007, 09:40 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Minnesota, USA
Joined Aug 2002
2,207 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Bird Radio
Instead of a fork to hold the wheel I made a mono strut from a piece of 1/8" welding rod with flux knocked off. The rod was bent to shape with a small hobby vise and hammer using the drawing I made to keep the geometry correct.
John
Thanks for the clarification John. I was really surprised when you said the mono-strut was only 1/8 inch diameter rod. From the photos I guessed 1/4 to 3/8 ! I'm using the large diameter scooter wheels which are about 3-4 inches or so in diameter, and they take a 5/16 axle bolt. At least seeing the closeups of your assembly, I think I can come up with a similar system. The general platform on my "stalled" project - backbone and rear wheel support beams are carbon tube, so most of my weight will be in the actual wheels at each of the three corners. I would guess that will allow me to go a bit heavy on the steering mechanism - which will also help if I crash into curb or car.

Thanks
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