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Old Aug 07, 2008, 10:46 PM
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USA, TX, Trophy Club
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No - I was kidding Kirby is a great guy and certainly no big head.

He showed up with his new Camera but no plane at the 3dhs fly in. I coveted for a good long time!

It is so great to have a great photographer/videographer - and Kirby is an excellent pilot too!

Mike
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Old Aug 07, 2008, 10:53 PM
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New camera???? I guess Kirby's keeping secrets these days.

I'm surprised he has not chimed in yet to express how well he likes the Reactor. I believe it's in the top three in his fleet, and he has a huge fleet. Kirby...good pilot...if you think I flew the Reactor good, you should see him fly his. His knife edge spins make mine look so so.

I'm hoping to get over to Grapevine and fly between now and DEAF so hope to see you soon Mike.

Steve
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Old Aug 08, 2008, 10:54 AM
Real Men Fly Pink Planes...
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Joined Jun 2001
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okay, you finally suckered me in...Thanks for the compliments... but I am not that good at flying, or as a videographer, but I am trying on both accounts to improve.

The Reactor... well, the I had the little one first and was so impressed that I converted the big one. This plane does nothing poorly, precision flight is great, (can easily replace my long lived Venus), but 3d is nuts. Recovers well from any manuver, and has enough side area to do things like Knife edge elevators. It even leaves you withe a few surprises such as if you do a knife edge spin and dont correct the roll out tendencies with aileron, then it falls into a nice inverted flat spin.

BTW: Steve, I certainly dont mind videoing in the future.... next time, its High Def.

Kirby
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Old Aug 08, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Kirby, you certainly know how to show off the Reactor's precision capabilities.

HD next time....GREAT!
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Old Aug 25, 2008, 12:20 AM
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Great review Steve,
I just finished mine and but for the exception of the carbon fiber replacement spar, and the servo's, Mine is identical to yours. I chose the Futaba S9650 digital coreless servo's and a bec appropriate to their 6v power requirement because the manual said they were the best and this whole thing was kind of a treat to myself. I hope they are worth it. Even though I work in a Hobby
Shop they were still on the expensive side especially when you talk about 5 of them.
Have'nt maidened it yet, weathers been toooooo windy today, but I static tested it and hovered it in my garage with a 13X8. It seemed to need full throttle to climb out of the hover, so I'm thinking that I'll go with the 16x8 as you had such good results with it.
One question however. I mixed my two elevator servo's with programming on my DX7 and the ailerons and rudder all work to perfection. Just for knowledge, what is a servo synchronizer, and what is it's function...I mean beyond the obvious..LOL..? thanks for the great review.
Spackles... maiden pretty soon... call me... maybe we can let it rip one day at lunch or something.

Bo
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Last edited by UBILDIT; Aug 25, 2008 at 12:23 AM. Reason: forgot to name servo's
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Old Aug 26, 2008, 06:55 AM
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Keep in mind that I used a Xoar 16x8 electric prop. If using APC E prop, I think you should drop to a 15x8.

Servo synchronizer is exactly what it sounds like. It's an electronic device that plugs into a channel on your receiver and then has outputs to synchronize servos from the signal from the channel it's plugged into on the rcvr. In this case I used it to synchronize the two elevator halves since the Futaba 6EX was not capable of doing it through mixes and still allow for synchronized trim. It's also more precise than servo reverser. There's no need for this with the DX7 b/c it's capable of mixing along with synchronized trim. I believe the synchronizer is more commonly used in large scale to synchronize multiple servos. It's also more precise than servo reverser.

Bo, please report back letting us know how you like the Reactor and thanks for the kind words on the review.

Steve
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Old Aug 26, 2008, 02:21 PM
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Birmingham, Alabama
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UBILDIT
Spackles... maiden pretty soon... call me... maybe we can let it rip one day at lunch or something.

Bo
Sounds like a plan. I'd love to see it fly. I'll be there camera in hand.

Yeah, we've been having a few 15-20mph days over here after tropical storm Fay came through... I wanted to maiden some new toys too, but so much for that...

Patience, my friend, patience...
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Old Aug 30, 2008, 12:10 AM
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Vancouver B.C.
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Hello all, I'm really confused on motor, battery set up. I want a good 3d set up. I'm leaning towards an outrunner to keep the cost down. I already have a CC80 esc.
I want to use a 16inch prop minimum.

What about a Scorpion? Any suggestions on which one? There 4020-16 412kv looks to fit the bill. Any feedback? 5s or 6s?

Thanks

Miles
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Old Aug 31, 2008, 03:57 PM
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frisco,tx
Joined Oct 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PORKCHOP
Hello all, I'm really confused on motor, battery set up. I want a good 3d set up. I'm leaning towards an outrunner to keep the cost down. I already have a CC80 esc.
I want to use a 16inch prop minimum.

What about a Scorpion? Any suggestions on which one? There 4020-16 412kv looks to fit the bill. Any feedback? 5s or 6s?

Thanks

Miles

4020-14 on 5s and a 16x8 or 17x8 depending on capacity looks good on scorp. calc. its a free download for scorpion motors
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Old Aug 31, 2008, 05:04 PM
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Allen, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PORKCHOP
Hello all, I'm really confused on motor, battery set up. I want a good 3d set up. I'm leaning towards an outrunner to keep the cost down. I already have a CC80 esc.
I want to use a 16inch prop minimum.

What about a Scorpion? Any suggestions on which one? There 4020-16 412kv looks to fit the bill. Any feedback? 5s or 6s?

Thanks

Miles
The setup I used for the review works really well. Watch the video and you'll see that it's plenty of power for 3D.

Torque Revolution 4014-T570 on 5s and I believe 14-15" prop or if batts can handle it you can prop up for more watts. Guy at my field is running TP Extreme packs on this motor and getting 1500 watts static but it's pulling 75 amps.

Power 60 will work with 6s and 16x8 prop but you will be 2-3 oz heavier in the nose which would most likely require some weight in the tail unless you're using heavier packs than I did for the review.

Hacker B50-13s, 6.7:1 with 16x8 up to 16x10 if the batts can handle the watts. Kirby is flying this setup and it's really good power but it's also more expensive than an outrunner.

I'm sure that Scorpion, Reaper and others have a motor that would work fine also just do a little research.

Good luck!

Steve
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Old Oct 15, 2008, 02:58 PM
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Davidsons , great job you've done here with Reactor.It is helping me a lot to build mine.I am a beginer.The diference is that I will use a glow engine (OS FS Alpha 81 4 stroke).I am wondering why did you use the Scotch Multitask in the hings(?).Did you put in both sides , I mean up and down?I would like to in mine.Could you splend in more details for me?
Thank you
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Old Oct 15, 2008, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolato
Davidsons , great job you've done here with Reactor.It is helping me a lot to build mine.I am a beginer.The diference is that I will use a glow engine (OS FS Alpha 81 4 stroke).I am wondering why did you use the Scotch Multitask in the hings(?).Did you put in both sides , I mean up and down?I would like to in mine.Could you splend in more details for me?
Thank you
I used the Scotch Multitask tape to seal the hinge line, not in place of the hinges. Review photos show ca hinging followed by sealing the hinge line which prevents airflow through the hinge line. You only need to seal one side.
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 12:50 AM
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Thanks for returning to me Davidson.I have never seen this technic before.I think it is a good idea!!I will do it in mine Reactor.May I use those tapes that are used to make hinges in small airplanes (because I have it) or better go look for scotch multitask?Does it pull out with the time and makes it necessary to change for a new one?Can you please tell me about your experience with this?Was it your idea or where did you learn it? ... sorry so many questions ...
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 08:00 AM
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Lolato

Any thin clear tape should work fine. I've always used Multitask for this as well as hinging foamies. I have not had any pulling off but I guess that could happen over time with age and temperature changes. And no, this was not my idea. Sealing hinge gaps has been around for a long time. In the pre arf era one would use covering material (monokote, ultracote, etc.) to seal the hinge line and I've actually done that on a couple of planes in the past however it's more time consuming.

I like to tape the surfaces before installing the control horns and when doing a long hinge line, break it up into 2-3 shorter sections of tape. Be careful if you have to pull it off as you could life the covering if the tape is contacting an edge of the covering. I've found this mainly a problem on the top trim sections of the covering. If you have to lift it up, place your finger or thumb an inch or so from the end of the tape and lift the tape slowly and only a small amount at a time controlling the amount with your finger or thumb. By the way, I know people who religiously tape the hinge lines as well as those who never tape them. I think you would be okay either way but taping them rules out any issues at the hinge line.

Good luck!

Steve
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Old Oct 16, 2008, 12:54 PM
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Steve , thank you ! I will do it in mine.
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