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Old Jul 05, 2001, 11:27 PM
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Highland, CA, USA
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Hornet CP .... finally ... part 2

I am starting a new topic that is a continuation of “Hornet CP ….finally” so people won’t have to wade through the old news but I still want to keep the information flowing.
I have been asked by e-mail for more specifics, IE part #s of the parts I used and what other “mods” I have done to the Hornet. It is easier for me, and better for everyone else, to post it here. So here is a list, and I should have detailed pics tomorrow if I can get my hands on a good digital camera.
Walt

HORNET MODS ALL

(1) stainless steel mainshaft
(2) T/R double bearing pitch slider
(3) autorotation hub & bearing
(4) collective pitch flybarless rotor head
(5) aluminum rotor hub
(6) weighted wood symmetrical blades
(7) carbon 3D style tail fins

PARTS USED on flybarless ROTOR HEAD
(1) auto bearing – Boca 4x8x6 FC4-K
(2) blade grip bearing – Boca 4x8x3 MR8-ZZ
(3) head teeter bearing – Boca 2x5x2.3F SMF682-ZZ
(4) blade grips – Kyosho Concept 30 t/r grips H3052
(5) rotor hub (modified) Hirobo 0404-323

EQUIPMENT USED
(1) 4 – HS50 servos
(2) Berg mini6 receiver
(3) Castle Creations Pixie 7P speed controller
(4) Sanyo 8 cell 720mah
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 12:00 AM
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Vicksburg, MS
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Hi Walt,

Sorry to ask this again but I seem to have erased some of my emails.

Your blade is 1.25" constant cord symetrical. What was the disk diameter again?

My prototype rotor head is read for blades.

Cheers
John
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 12:29 AM
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Highland, CA, USA
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John,
The rotor disk is 19", you are correct on the cord 1.25" and the the max thickness is .185". Hope that helps.
Walt
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 09:23 AM
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Vicksburg, MS
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Thanks Walt

Gonzo's teeter system seems to work decent. I'll make the blades and see what happens this weekend.

Cheers
John
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 10:33 AM
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Menlo Park, CA, USA
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Thanks again Walt. Can't wait to see the pics.

/Loren
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 10:44 PM
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Highland, CA, USA
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I left a few things out on the flybarless head part list:
(6) 2.5 x 8mm cap screw
(7) 2 x 14mm cap screw & nut(head teeter bolt)
(8) (2) 8 x 6 x .5mm washer (bearing spacer)
(9) (2) 3 x 12mm blade attach bolt
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Old Jul 06, 2001, 11:29 PM
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Highland, CA, USA
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Here are the photos you have been waiting for, I have several pictures file now so if you need to see something better or higher resolution let me know. You can e-mail me about specifics, but I would like to post answers here so everyone can benefit.




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Old Jul 07, 2001, 12:03 AM
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Lake Louise, AB, Canada
Joined Feb 2000
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Wow, Walt. Congratulations on your elegant design! Your mature and caring attitude is commendable too. I wasn't really interested in modifying my Hornet until I saw these last pictures

Cheers!

Glen
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 12:26 AM
jk
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Huntington Beach, CA
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it looks awesome walt!!!

i just might have to give it a go myself.

johnk
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 12:39 AM
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Vicksburg, MS
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I like it Walt, nice work.

Are you keeping the blades loose or tight in the grip? I had problems loose.

Spun up my Flybarless CP Robin for the first time tonight. Took awhile to get the radio setup right since this is my first heli radio, ccpm, and cp.

Think I made the first set of blades too big. When I got right to lifting power I would lose rpm and have trouble holding her tail. Susect high amps but have not hooked up the micro meter yet so I stopped. Think I'll taper the blades and try again tomarrow.

Looks like she'll be stable. Got real light on the skids with no tendency to do anything unexpected at all. Did try her in my den before adding the rotor tip weights and she did a side flip (no damage, whewww). Didn't mean to spin her up that fast, just checking everything out. Proves the tip weights are needed!

Cheers
John
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 01:11 AM
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John,
I did fly my blades (CP) snug for a while because the Hornet as a FP design needs them to be tight for hard flying. Then one day I accidently ran them loose (CP) and they found their own center and ran real smooth. Through aerobatics, inverted and all they stay put. I must add that for blades to be able to be run loose they must have a forward CG. That means that the tip weight must be as far forward and out as possible.
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 01:24 AM
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I'll try them loose again. I hadn't added the tip weights yet during my first spin ups. Just wanted to check radio. She had lots of problems. When I added tip weights I just left her like she was. I'll try again.

Will let you know.

John
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 01:52 AM
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John,
May I suggest that you run it up (boy am I going to get in trouble for saying this) in your hand first and feel when it lifts, check the cyclic and t/r stick positions, is it pulling to one side or another? Is the rotor system lugging at top pitch, etc. Before anyone tells me how unsafe this is, remember it is a 18" propeller turning 1500 rpm not a quarter scale 24" prop at 6000. And we are all grown ups and responsible for our own actions, right?
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 02:15 AM
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Walt,

I already did this. I hated to admit it but I do wear my glasses when I do it.

It felt neutral with respect to stability so I think the rotor weights must be ok. However I will know for certain once I fix the blade problem. She spins up fast and then as collective is added she lugged. So as I said, I think I have too much blade. I experienced something very similar when I first started making my own blades with FP and fixed it by tapering the blade.

Thanks once again
John
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Old Jul 07, 2001, 07:30 AM
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Mississippi 31 years , Now Kotzebue , Alaska 12
Joined Apr 2001
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cyhyam, man it does look nice, and with the stainless rod , (strong enough) WRING HER OUT is all I have to say, it looks tuff, you have my blessen , just kidding, Good job
Have a look at this site and here was what I pried out of MS http://www.modelsport.cz/Discussion/discussion.html
there is light at the end of the tunnel for most of us, that dont have time to make one like you have but man I dont know if I can wait that long either , hu? Tony
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