HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old May 27, 2008, 07:22 PM
Hold my Beer and watch this!
silent_guru's Avatar
USA, MA, Brockton
Joined Sep 2007
291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by moogly
i Had that problem and ended up moving the batt. back and across the landing gear (under the pilot seat) its still just a touch nose heavy but it fly great
I run a HXT 35*36C motor and a 2200 zippy packs but once I got that down its been great I still need maybe 2 notches of of elevator but I can live with that as far as the gear goes I run 2.5" tires and there great on the rough stuff and I Epoxied the sh&* out of the cross brace on my second one and I have not had I problem sense and I have bent the gear alot but never had it come out of the plane!! and rember IT COULD ALWAYS BE WORSE (see My 1st T-Craft) but the gear stayed attached!!
here's A short Video of the 2nd one
http://rcuvideos.com/item/DTNKX955JDT5RNK7
How did you get the epoxy on the cross brace, did you cut the covering to get access or ???

Thanks
silent_guru is offline Find More Posts by silent_guru
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old May 27, 2008, 07:39 PM
AMA 16192
Madison, AL
Joined Oct 2003
100 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by EzEd
Just got mine done over the weekend.

Went with the 480 and recommended 12x6 prop. Prop seems kinda overkill though...
The 480 motor is what seems overkill to me since mine will climb at better than 30 degrees on the 450 with 10x8E prop. But then, I like to fly mine scale, and even the 450 is too much in that regard! I just don't understand the 480 though...
bronicabill is offline Find More Posts by bronicabill
Reply With Quote
Old May 27, 2008, 10:59 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Kerrville
Joined Oct 2003
2,261 Posts
You Crashed!

Pal, if you've torn out the gear block, bent the gear struts on subsequent landings, and all the other scrapes. Buddy, you've crashed!

CR
Charley38 is offline Find More Posts by Charley38
Reply With Quote
Old May 27, 2008, 11:49 PM
Registered User
Holtenbacker's Avatar
Modesto, California USA
Joined Jan 2004
732 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bronicabill
I just don't understand the 480 though...
That's what I had in stock. Didn't want to buy another motor when this works. Made CG easier. Fly at lower throttle than the 450. Can still fly scale. Once in a while, get a wild hair and do some unscale aerobatics for a Taylorcraft . Have an edge in a Tayorcraft race.............
Holtenbacker is offline Find More Posts by Holtenbacker
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 12:00 AM
Registered User
moogly's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by silent_guru
How did you get the epoxy on the cross brace, did you cut the covering to get access or ???

Thanks
go at it from the latch cover and glue down the corners of the gear brace where it meets the walls I did cut an opening behind the gear and back to the first brace for batt placment and the made a plate /cover for it with a latch .
works great I can get at the insides now really easy for battery movment and reglue if I need it ( someone elese did the same thing a few pages back with pictures see if you can find it? try searching for this
Img_0265sm.jpg - 54.2 KB - Views: 131
Posted by: No Step on Jan 01, 2008 03:41 PM
moogly is offline Find More Posts by moogly
Last edited by moogly; May 28, 2008 at 12:05 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 06:40 AM
The sky is my playground.
Dora Nine's Avatar
United States, NH
Joined May 2005
7,668 Posts
EzEd: She looks really nice with that XOAR prop! Yeah I was pretty sure the 102 was going to be overkill, so I went with 920KV motor. Couldn't be happier.
Dora Nine is offline Find More Posts by Dora Nine
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 03:10 PM
RRS
Registered User
Joined Oct 2001
99 Posts
Thanks to the info that's been posted in the forum, I've beefed up the T-craft LG mount (I'm currently building) and wanted to share what I did as well as highlight some of the (same) kit short comings others have encountered on what otherwise appears to be a great little flying plane... i.e. if what everyone writes is true

To strengthen the LG mount I added/expoxied two support pieces (a traingular piece of lite-ply and a small balsa block), shown in the pics below. The triangular piece is expoxied to the side structure, bottom longeron, front former and LG mount. A small balsa block butts up against the lite-ply piece, on top of the LG mount, and up against the former. This will distribute LG loads more evenly to the fuselage frame, and, as such, I don't any expect any LG breakaway (other than in the event of a 'crash' landing )

When I first opened the kit to inspect parts, and I opened the sealed fuselage wrap I noted the top center cross member missing - broken off. It was later found in the bottom of the box. The right wing was warped, all control surface hinge lines were very (too!) close, excess glue had run along all hinge lines thus preventing stiff control surface movement (sloppy application of glue at the factory? ). I corrected the warp after the wing halfs were joined, and using a heat gun, twisted the wing half into the correct position and re-shrunk the covering. Rather than tear out the hinges and install new ones (too risky I thought) I (carefully) dug out the glue that opened the hinge line slightly which gave easier surface movement.

I hope my (this) post will show my pics below, as this is the first time I've uploading pics to a forum and I've tried to follow forum's instructions for doing it. Fingers crossed...

Dick
RRS is offline Find More Posts by RRS
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 04:14 PM
Registered User
Hallowell, Maine
Joined Jan 2002
439 Posts
Very well done. It's obviously easier to make modifications before all the electronics go in. I haven't experienced a landing gear mount failure on this plane but I did have all of the other issues you mentioned. Once they were taken care of I found the plane to very versatile and fun the fly.

I'm still waiting for a little less wind up here in Maine.

Happy landings!!

Jaybird
Jaybird is offline Find More Posts by Jaybird
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 05:21 PM
Hold my Beer and watch this!
silent_guru's Avatar
USA, MA, Brockton
Joined Sep 2007
291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRS
Thanks to the info that's been posted in the forum, I've beefed up the T-craft LG mount (I'm currently building) and wanted to share what I did as well as highlight some of the (same) kit short comings others have encountered on what otherwise appears to be a great little flying plane... i.e. if what everyone writes is true

To strengthen the LG mount I added/expoxied two support pieces (a traingular piece of lite-ply and a small balsa block), shown in the pics below. The triangular piece is expoxied to the side structure, bottom longeron, front former and LG mount. A small balsa block butts up against the lite-ply piece, on top of the LG mount, and up against the former. This will distribute LG loads more evenly to the fuselage frame, and, as such, I don't any expect any LG breakaway (other than in the event of a 'crash' landing )

When I first opened the kit to inspect parts, and I opened the sealed fuselage wrap I noted the top center cross member missing - broken off. It was later found in the bottom of the box. The right wing was warped, all control surface hinge lines were very (too!) close, excess glue had run along all hinge lines thus preventing stiff control surface movement (sloppy application of glue at the factory? ). I corrected the warp after the wing halfs were joined, and using a heat gun, twisted the wing half into the correct position and re-shrunk the covering. Rather than tear out the hinges and install new ones (too risky I thought) I (carefully) dug out the glue that opened the hinge line slightly which gave easier surface movement.

I hope my (this) post will show my pics below, as this is the first time I've uploading pics to a forum and I've tried to follow forum's instructions for doing it. Fingers crossed...

Dick
Thanks for the pics. My plane does not have that triangular piece of balsa running across the width between the nut inserts(not the ones you added). I just checked my new one and it does have it. It probably made a difference
silent_guru is offline Find More Posts by silent_guru
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 08:51 PM
Registered User
moogly's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRS
Thanks to the info that's been posted in the forum, I've beefed up the T-craft LG mount (I'm currently building) and wanted to share what I did as well as highlight some of the (same) kit short comings others have encountered on what otherwise appears to be a great little flying plane... i.e. if what everyone writes is true

To strengthen the LG mount I added/expoxied two support pieces (a traingular piece of lite-ply and a small balsa block), shown in the pics below. The triangular piece is expoxied to the side structure, bottom longeron, front former and LG mount. A small balsa block butts up against the lite-ply piece, on top of the LG mount, and up against the former. This will distribute LG loads more evenly to the fuselage frame, and, as such, I don't any expect any LG breakaway (other than in the event of a 'crash' landing )

When I first opened the kit to inspect parts, and I opened the sealed fuselage wrap I noted the top center cross member missing - broken off. It was later found in the bottom of the box. The right wing was warped, all control surface hinge lines were very (too!) close, excess glue had run along all hinge lines thus preventing stiff control surface movement (sloppy application of glue at the factory? ). I corrected the warp after the wing halfs were joined, and using a heat gun, twisted the wing half into the correct position and re-shrunk the covering. Rather than tear out the hinges and install new ones (too risky I thought) I (carefully) dug out the glue that opened the hinge line slightly which gave easier surface movement.

I hope my (this) post will show my pics below, as this is the first time I've uploading pics to a forum and I've tried to follow forum's instructions for doing it. Fingers crossed...

Dick
Great job that pretty close to what I did on my 2nd T-Craft and havent had a problem sense
moogly is offline Find More Posts by moogly
Reply With Quote
Old May 28, 2008, 08:56 PM
Registered User
moogly's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley38
Pal, if you've torn out the gear block, bent the gear struts on subsequent landings, and all the other scrapes. Buddy, you've crashed!

CR
Some of us Land harder than others and have Issues with the gear struts but the we have'nt been at it as long as you
moogly is offline Find More Posts by moogly
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 02, 2008, 09:57 AM
Registered User
United States, TX, Kerrville
Joined Oct 2003
2,261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by moogly
Some of us Land harder than others and have Issues with the gear struts but the we have'nt been at it as long as you
Shux, I make hard landings now and then, too. I've torn out my share of LG blocks too but I don't blame the airplane for my mistakes.

CR
Charley38 is offline Find More Posts by Charley38
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 02, 2008, 10:04 AM
Suspended Account
Sisyphus's Avatar
Upper U.S.
Joined Jan 2008
3,040 Posts
Charley, while I agree with you in general, ever try a Hyperion? Most have "relatively" weak gear mounts.
Sisyphus is offline Find More Posts by Sisyphus
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 02, 2008, 12:14 PM
Registered User
moogly's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley38
Shux, I make hard landings now and then, too. I've torn out my share of LG blocks too but I don't blame the airplane for my mistakes.

CR
Who's blameing the plane? All we did was strethen the LG brace
moogly is offline Find More Posts by moogly
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 03, 2008, 08:44 AM
Hold my Beer and watch this!
silent_guru's Avatar
USA, MA, Brockton
Joined Sep 2007
291 Posts
Re-Maiden with new fuse

Hi All, I re-maidened my T-Craft this morning. I used everything from my first except the fuse and everything that glues on it. Looking at my old fuse I could see that the incidence of the wing to the horizontal stab was off. I sanded the front of the new rudder (the part that fits above the fuse in front of the step-down) to get the new assembly to lay flat and true in the mount. This one flys nice! I am amazed at how slow this thing will go, and seems to be happiest at a little less than half throttle after climb out. Very Gracefull. I did use nylon screws to attach the landning gear just in case, but I was floating it down to the runway with a little speed, touching down with the mains before the tail came down. I need to adjust the trims a bit more and my elevator is not returning to neutral after a down elevator movement, but does return after an up elevator input. Got to figure that one out but I can't wait to fly it again. Does anyone know what size pilot would be good for this cockpit?

Thanks All!
silent_guru is offline Find More Posts by silent_guru
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product E flite Taylorcraft for 450 or 480 P-51C Scale ARF/RTF 23 May 23, 2009 05:11 AM
Discussion E-Flite park 450 outrunner, 980kV - suggested plane(s) or kits? dougaustin Power Systems 4 Jul 01, 2006 02:49 AM
Wanted E-Flite Park 450 Outrunner Twmaster Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 3 Jun 17, 2006 11:41 AM
For Sale E-Flite Park 450 outrunner motor(3 days old) wilsonbueno Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 3 Mar 01, 2006 10:10 PM
Question E-flite Park 450 vs Hacker A20-20L Jimmy Hoffa Power Systems 2 Dec 19, 2005 02:29 PM