Mine tends to make the rounds at assorted events and fields of varied quality. And there have been times where I've ended up landing in the rough beyond the runway, so I value a pair of bigger tires. Some full-scale Taylorcrafts were modified to have bigger tires in order to cope with marginal fields, way back in the day, so I don't feel too bad about doing it. And besides, it's amazing what a little paint can do.

I`ve now ordered one of these beautiful planes

Hurry up Mr Postman

I am picking up a real nice used one on Monday for $75! He has already done the landing gear mods. Hope this flies as well as my T-28 and FU Corsair. Anyone have one of those to compare this with?

Originally Posted by arichards1969

I`ve now ordered one of these beautiful planes

Hurry up Mr Postman

you should be saying slow down to the postman as the plane is so much of a tight fit in the box. that you do want a ARTF kit and not a do it yourself MATCH STICK KIT.

Originally Posted by luvmykids2

I am picking up a real nice used one on Monday for $75! He has already done the landing gear mods. Hope this flies as well as my T-28 and FU Corsair. Anyone have one of those to compare this with?

I own both the T-Craft, and a PZ T-28. The T-Craft floats better, and feels like it's more precise in the aerobatics department than the Trojan. It's quicker to take advantage of rising air.

The Trojan is a bit better in the wind. The T-Craft is really sensitive to crosswinds, and handling them requires a bit of finesse that isn't needed with the Trojan.

One thing the Taylorcraft will teach you is use of the rudder. Don't just slam the throttle open and never touch the rudder during flight. The Taylorcraft, like its full sized counterpart, likes you to use the rudder. A little cross control in a cross wind will keep things going correctly. It also does a wonderful side-slip to kill altitude.
Gary

Originally Posted by Gary Hoorn

One thing the Taylorcraft will teach you is use of the rudder. Don't just slam the throttle open and never touch the rudder during flight. The Taylorcraft, like its full sized counterpart, likes you to use the rudder. A little cross control in a cross wind will keep things going correctly. It also does a wonderful side-slip to kill altitude.
Gary

Now there's a REAL pilot talkin' ! Syre glad to hear that.
Stan

Cool, I have actually erally learned to use the rudder in flying my 3D stuff. Rudder is really necessary so i am comfortable with it's use for scale too. My Multiplex twinstar is very fond of rudder use too. sounds like this is steady though. should have it up hopefully by next week.

Just maidened my TC. Went by the book on the CG and it was way nose heavy.
Trimed it up a lot while flying and it flew great. I have the bigger motor in it and it climbs great. Since I'm a "heli" guy and under 60, all the plank guys at my club went nuts when they saw me with this bird. Everyone said it was to "pretty" to fly LOL.
I took your guys advice and cut out the battery door to get the battery in, reinforced the motor mount and wood around the wheel supports. I also made a "tray" to hold the battery in place side to side. Can't wait to fly again but the wind is over 20..
Cheers, and thanks for the help

Would you mind posting a picture of how you cut fuselage bottom out? The pain of changing batteries is keeping my Taylorcraft grounded in favor of other planes, more often than not.

Thanks,
Daniel

Daniel,
Don't cut out the bottom of the fuselage. Use your Dremel tool and notch between the two magnets on the ply cross brace at the rear where the hatch sits. Somewhere way back in this thread I showed a picture of how I did that. I can get big fat 2200 GForce lipos in mine with no problem. Hacking up the bottom of the plane is not necessary.
Gary

Originally Posted by Gary Hoorn

Daniel,
Don't cut out the bottom of the fuselage. Use your Dremel tool and notch between the two magnets on the ply cross brace at the rear where the hatch sits. Somewhere way back in this thread I showed a picture of how I did that. I can get big fat 2200 GForce lipos in mine with no problem. Hacking up the bottom of the plane is not necessary.
Gary

Here ya go.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=696

Daniel,
I cut out the door support just like the pic that cyberjay attached. Sorry it sounded like I cut the door. I also made a balsa "tray" that is glued under the seat to hold the battery in left to right. I like to fly acrobatic so I felt the strap and velcro was wimpy..
Cheers,
Steve

CyberJay,
Thank you. You found the post before I did. It was awhile back...

Daniel,
Note the black velcro on the bottom of the battery tray and the hold down strap. Plenty of lipo holding power. I do snaps, outside loops and inverted spins with mine and have never had a lipo come loose.
Gary

Originally Posted by Gary Hoorn

CyberJay,
Thank you. You found the post before I did. It was awhile back...

Daniel,
Note the black velcro on the bottom of the battery tray and the hold down strap. Plenty of lipo holding power. I do snaps, outside loops and inverted spins with mine and have never had a lipo come loose.
Gary

Hi Gary,
Thanks for all the good info on here. This thread is getting as good as "that big one"
Stan