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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:10 PM
Gravity gets me down.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janekp
I'm working on my Taylorcraft, and if I can make a sugestion to the Eflite, I would say, don't glue the hinges. My were so bad that i had to cut them off and redo on all of the surfaces. The worst was elevator, It hardly moved and joiner wasn't aligned at all. Anybody has a similar problem?

Yes- found this on the Texan. Glue wasn't a huge issue, although some was in the gap. I did find some misalignment, and re-hinged the rudder and one elevator half. Not the way it should be, of course, but they did get a whole lot right!

I know they are working hard on perfecting these new products. My T-craft should be home soon!

cheers!
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janekp
I'm working on my Taylorcraft, and if I can make a sugestion to the Eflite, I would say, don't glue the hinges. My were so bad that i had to cut them off and redo on all of the surfaces. The worst was elevator, It hardly moved and joiner wasn't aligned at all. Anybody has a similar problem?
Yeap, during my close inspection of this "new" model I found this as well.....again my main reason for leaving it behind was the rather light construction at the Frontal Fuse.....nice looking model, however.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:26 PM
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Guapoman

There you have front fuse pictures
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Thanks for those Frontal FUSE pictures....do not misunderstand me....a very nice CAD CAM designed model indeed and very good looking ...my beef if you can call it that is that to me I have seen the same construction on the E-Flite Show Time and the young man at my RC CLub used too small of a rudder servo and he lost control as the servo striped....all this trying to make the model too light for a model that was super light to begin with....certainly not the fault of the model as there is a saying ....Don't Crash......agreed but, there is circumstances of light nose in-s so, I did not want to take a chance on this honeycoub structure cracking up on me should I happen to slightly cause it to nose -in because of a landing approach that was not just right...etc...

Therefore, at a new Hobby Town USA here in Central Florida.....I selected the Mega-Model BirdDog (this is the one that Hobby-Lobby sells) as it's frontal Fuse exhibited super strong construction and overall the quality was just 1st rate in all other areas.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/cessna.htm

Just for comparison, here's the Mega-Model BirdDog of 45" wing span.

Oh, yes the inside of the BirdDog was painted just like the Taylor Craft.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:42 PM
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If my extra 260 can handle a 480 1020 kv, then the Taylorcraft "frontal fuse" should have no problems handling the 480 910 kv I am putting in it.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LandCruiser
If my extra 260 can handle a 480 1020 kv, then the Taylorcraft "frontal fuse" should have no problems handling the 480 910 kv I am putting in it.
No one is saying that the structure will not withstand the recommended power systems....

It's the light nose-in from a less than perfect landing is what I am concern about like I mentioned in my previous post

Here's the E-Flite Show Time 4D and it's rather light nose in from 4 feet up against mother Earth....it's called gravity
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:00 PM
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I agree with gaupoman about the front of the E-flites being lightly built. They are strong enough but unforgiving if you're not a careful pilot. That's why I'd consider these to be planes for the experienced; even if they fly easy, the light construction demands added caution.

BTW, this looks like a great model and I hope to hear more hands-on soon.
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Last edited by Fokker Ace; Nov 21, 2007 at 11:06 PM. Reason: Added something
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:07 PM
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Thanks for understanding Fokker Ace..

The young man at our RC Club gave me the ShowTime 4D as he knows my repair ability.... He was going to throw it away!!!

After seeing that his father glued the Rudder servo in at the tail boom of the FUSE and could not take out those expensive super long servo extensions...I reached in my wallet and gave him $20 Dollars and that's when he gave me those servos......I will use these tiny servos in a tiny Park Flyer and will use larger more powerful servos when I complete repairs to this very fragile ShowTime.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guapoman2000
No one is saying that the structure will not withstand the recommended power systems....

It's the light nose-in from a less than perfect landing is what I am concern about like I mentioned in my previous post

Here's the E-Flite Show Time 4D and it's rather light nose in from 4 feet up against mother Earth....it's called gravity
Agreed......Gravity always wins!
I guess my definition of a "light nose in" differs from others?
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:16 PM
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I think we'll see how the hands-on goes with this one, but in my experience the newer E-flite planes need a light touch when it comes time to land. You can't stall them in from a foot off the ground and call that a landing. People used to tough trainers and wings held on with rubber bands will need to fly this one as if they were in it and behind the wheel!

I'd go for the lightest set-up possible on this model. The Park 450, T-bird 36 ESC, HS55's, and a fairly small 3S. You'll get good 8 minute flights on 1250mAh and the weight difference from a 2100mAh will make a difference in the flying.
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LandCruiser
Agreed......Gravity always wins!
I guess my definition of a "light nose in" differs from others?
I beleive we all are taking about the same thing.....light nose ins as such...the problem is the model has a motor hanging from a lattice structure that was lasar cut and interlocked by the same stuff......when the model slightly impacts terra firma and at the perfect angle the motor tends to compress the structure inward and there's no accounting structurely to avoid extensive damage to the model.

Should you be a "MODELER" this is perhaps not a big deal ....however, if you don't have the skill or time to perform repairs.....well......trash heap!

A model such as the Mega-Model BirdDog exhibits a solid piece of Plywood with a interlocking housing that is mounted in front of those alignment hole and the housing is super strong ply as well. I am going to use bolts long enough with PVC SCH-40 3/4 inch Pipe cut to fit as my standoff and nylon locking nuts at the interior of the BirdDog making a super strong mounting for my BP Hobbies $20 outrunner
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Hey guys,

First off on using the E-flite Park 480 (1020Kv) motor. It is crazy power when coupled with the APC 12x6E prop. We have found many guys going this route on our Mini Ultra Stick's and Mini Pulse XT's. The performance is there if you want it. The plane flies great on a Park 450. That is what I have in mine.

As for the front end being built too light. I can honestly say I will not build them to crash. This delivers planes that have bad snap tendancies and high wing loadings. This is not what E-flite is about. We are here to Advance Electric Flight in every product we bring out. If you want to, you could glue on some 1/64" plywood aroudn the motor box and firewall. This wouldn't add much wei9ght and would make it incredibly strong.

As for the guys who's Hobby SHops don't have one, let them know to order the plane when they are called. That would have been close to 2 months ago. Let them know they have the power to help you.

John
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by John Redman
Hey guys,

As for the front end being built too light. I can honestly say I will not build them to crash. This delivers planes that have bad snap tendancies and high wing loadings. This is not what E-flite is about. We are here to Advance Electric Flight in every product we bring out. If you want to, you could glue on some 1/64" plywood aroudn the motor box and firewall. This wouldn't add much wei9ght and would make it incredibly strong.

John
True.......it will not add any weight ....but, I still do not think it will avoid the lattice structure from cracking inward ....another RC maker that designs these kind of models (except they are mostly "Kits") is E-Star Models from Australia. I am sure they are not in the element of moderate RC Flyer skills....and let me tell all of you ....the young gentleman that flew that E-Flite SHOWTIME is a competition RC Flyer...I can not shadow his skills in my wet dreams....

So, as I understand.....to sell models you have to say how great it flys but, when someone points out that it could be a little stronger then it is pointed out that so and so company is not about less than perfect RC Flyers

Okay, I believe that's why the SHOW TIME's Wing assembly is $64.00 retail....thank goodness nothing happen to the wing assemblies (minor damage!)
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fokker Ace
I'd go for the lightest set-up possible on this model. The Park 450, T-bird 36 ESC, HS55's, and a fairly small 3S. You'll get good 8 minute flights on 1250mAh and the weight difference from a 2100mAh will make a difference in the flying.
Very good proposed setup! If it's super light...and on the fragile side then, keep it light !
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Old Nov 21, 2007, 11:59 PM
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John

What you say about not gluing hinges in the future, saving yours (manufacture) and our (modelers) time ?


Janusz
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