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Old Jan 03, 2008, 11:37 AM
"Aircraftus Fragmentum"
kydawg1's Avatar
Motor City USA
Joined Mar 2007
3,752 Posts
Has anyone seen the F/A 18 Red and Silver RED VIPER video on Hobby Lobby.... SWEET! I just ordered this one to go with my Blue and Gold one......

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/redviper.htm
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Old Jan 03, 2008, 04:48 PM
Registered User
Nor Cal,USA
Joined Sep 2000
460 Posts
Damn, if I knew about that one, I wouldn't have ordered the Blue Angels one. They are the same bird correct ?

Marcusg
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Old Jan 03, 2008, 08:26 PM
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Joined Dec 2007
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Sick.. are they going to come out the the grey and black one thats with the "red viper" in the pics?
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Old Jan 04, 2008, 07:23 AM
"Aircraftus Fragmentum"
kydawg1's Avatar
Motor City USA
Joined Mar 2007
3,752 Posts
Yes, I do believe they are the same. The RED Viper will be the latest revision (if there are any improvements from the factory). Looks GREAT though, I must say.
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Old Jan 04, 2008, 01:46 PM
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las vegas. nv
Joined Aug 2005
149 Posts
Just got mine yesterday. Minor damage to right wing tip. Easily fixed with some Foam Safe CA. Ready to start the build this weekend. I have four HS55's servos sitting around that I may swap out the stock ones with?

Thoughts?

How is the stock Lipo? Any suggestions on additional Lipos without moving up to a 3S 2100? I have some older Electrifly 3S 1500's that are about the same size however I haven't used them in awhile.
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Old Jan 04, 2008, 02:17 PM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
If it were mine, I'd swap out the servos, it is cheap insurance, and I'd go with individual aileron servos. I think the older 1500's are probably close in weight to the 2100, but you probably don't want to buy another battery. One thing limiting the stock performance is the speed control and battery C rating, in my opinion.

Frank


Quote:
Originally Posted by itspat
Just got mine yesterday. Minor damage to right wing tip. Easily fixed with some Foam Safe CA. Ready to start the build this weekend. I have four HS55's servos sitting around that I may swap out the stock ones with?

Thoughts?

How is the stock Lipo? Any suggestions on additional Lipos without moving up to a 3S 2100? I have some older Electrifly 3S 1500's that are about the same size however I haven't used them in awhile.
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Old Jan 04, 2008, 02:46 PM
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itspat's Avatar
las vegas. nv
Joined Aug 2005
149 Posts
Thx Frank. I agree and think the better route would be to change out the ESC and use my TP 3S 2100 Lipos as opposed to buying additional Lipos for this plane.

Any pics of the battery compartment mod out there?
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Old Jan 04, 2008, 05:33 PM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
2,456 Posts
Here I show my battery mod, and the dual aileron servo install, melted into the foam with a soldering iron to make a pocket, then covered with tape after gluing in. I use a piece of foam inserted into the front of the forward battery bay to hold the battery from shifting forward once inserted. I also made a pocket just behind the rear battery bay to hold the receiver and speed control.


Frank



Quote:
Originally Posted by itspat
Thx Frank. I agree and think the better route would be to change out the ESC and use my TP 3S 2100 Lipos as opposed to buying additional Lipos for this plane.

Any pics of the battery compartment mod out there?
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Old Jan 05, 2008, 11:12 PM
Gravity is a harsh mistress.
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United States, MI, Temperance
Joined Sep 2002
6,600 Posts
A nicely done review Ronnie, thanks!
The Hobby Lobby 20% off sale pushed me over the edge for one of these. It really fell together and I wasn't tempted to change a bunch of stuff during assembly as I'm inclined to do with most ARFs. All the plastic hardware on mine is blue. Not an exact match to the blue paint, but not too far off either. AUW is 20 oz. Even with a Berg 4 RX. Assembled it all with canopy glue. The parts fit together firmly enough that they are self-clamping. Anyone know what that glue that's included is? It smells like plastic model cement, but didn't appear to attack a test peice of foam I tested it on. I used TLAR control throws because no one has posted the throws they are using that I'm aware of. I measured 25A peak WOT current that settles to just over 23A in a few seconds. I thought that's really spanking a 1300 mAH 15C battery! Then I checked the label and saw that mine came with a 1300 mAH 18C pack. Still not a walk in the park, but a lot better. Is the 15C in the review a typo, or has the battey been upgraded since the review was published? It's ready to madien whenever I get acceptable weather.
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Last edited by Tim Wolff; Jan 05, 2008 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Jan 05, 2008, 11:39 PM
I make ARFs out of RTFs..
Wexford, PA USA
Joined Jun 2004
641 Posts
Has anyone flown it with the stock radio (RTF)? It does not have dual rates. Which holes did you use on the control arms? When flown with a computer radio, does it require any expo?
TIA,
ATAC
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Old Jan 06, 2008, 07:16 AM
"Have Glue - Will Travel"
dawnron1's Avatar
Ft. Worth, Texas
Joined Jan 2004
2,428 Posts
Thanks Tim!

I checked mine and verified it is indeed a 15C pack, so you're right an 18C is certainly an improvement. I'm planning to try the mod that Frank did as I've got three 3S 2100's lying around.

Ronnie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wolff
A nicely done review Ronnie, thanks!
The Hobby Lobby 20% off sale pushed me over the edge for one of these. It really fell together and I wasn't tempted to change a bunch of stuff during assembly as I'm inclined to do with most ARFs. All the plastic hardware on mine is blue. Not an exact match to the blue paint, but not too far off either. AUW is 20 oz. Even with a Berg 4 RX. Assembled it all with canopy glue. The parts fit together firmly enough that they are self-clamping. Anyone know what that glue that's included is? It smells like plastic model cement, but didn't appear to attack a test peice of foam I tested it on. I used TLAR control throws because no one has posted the throws they are using that I'm aware of. I measured 25A peak WOT current that settles to just over 23A in a few seconds. I thought that's really spanking a 1300 mAH 15C battery! Then I checked the label and saw that mine came with a 1300 mAH 18C pack. Still not a walk in the park, but a lot better. Is the 15C in the review a typo, or has the battey been upgraded since the review was published? It's ready to madien whenever I get acceptable weather.
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Old Jan 06, 2008, 05:46 PM
Boycot Crappy CC Controllers
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United States, MI, Port Huron
Joined Jun 2006
1,955 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by burkefj
It needed the bolted on adapter to fit, sorry, I forgot they sell it without the adapter, I don't remember what I did for the hub, if I had to drill it out or not. I felt it had a significant increase in performance, the lsjs is rated far above 290 watts, people are running 30-35 amps or more and 4s, so you can always to to 4s as another upgrade option, but if you do that you might want to plan on a separate bec from castle(very light) and a speed control that can handle the current.

Frank
I am putting in a CC-36 ESC, and a LSJS but the original hub is drilled to small for the LSJS shaft. Id rather not re drill this as I am not sure I can get it perfect. Any suggestions?
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Old Jan 06, 2008, 10:42 PM
I make ARFs out of RTFs..
Wexford, PA USA
Joined Jun 2004
641 Posts
It looks like nobody has the RTF version. For those of you flying with your own radio gear, what are the throws on the control surfaces? Do you use any expo?

I already put together one for my son, but I am waiting for the Spektrum DX6i to be available. My original plan was to get the RTF version and use the radio on another project while flying the F/A 18 with the DX6i. However, the radio is not available yet, and I have the plane ready. Both my son and I are itching to see how it flies, but I am wondering if we would be better of waiting a few more weeks until the DX6i comes.

I will appreciate any opinion,

ATAC
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Old Jan 07, 2008, 09:47 AM
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Joined Dec 2007
44 Posts
Using the outer most holes on the controls.

I have the RTF setup I am using the outer most holes on the controls. I have not had any issues with the stock servos. Plane is very responsive to inputs almost to responsive how do I reduce this sensitivity? I did buy another ARF version and I am adding a CC-36 speed controller, and a Berg 7A receiver, and a TP 21000, to this one.

Has anyone tried to glass this plane?
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Old Jan 07, 2008, 10:03 AM
"Have Glue - Will Travel"
dawnron1's Avatar
Ft. Worth, Texas
Joined Jan 2004
2,428 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99reddragon
I have the RTF setup I am using the outer most holes on the controls. I have not had any issues with the stock servos. Plane is very responsive to inputs almost to responsive how do I reduce this sensitivity? I did buy another ARF version and I am adding a CC-36 speed controller, and a Berg 7A receiver, and a TP 21000, to this one.

Has anyone tried to glass this plane?
99reddragon,

The only way to reduce sensitivity is to move to a hole further inward, as the sensitivity on the stock radio isn't adjustable. Most new computer radios have exponential which you can use to 'soften the sticks' in the middle. I really like exponential, although my old school buddies call it 'cheating'

Ronnie
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