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Old Jan 08, 2010, 12:50 AM
Xtreme Power Systems
Lake Havasu, AZ
Joined Jun 2005
15,938 Posts
We are selling them at the AMA show this weekend, and they will go on our website on Tuesday.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 03:43 PM
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Richard Evans's Avatar
USA, TX, Canyon Lake
Joined Jul 2006
342 Posts
ESC problems

I was leary of using the CC 110HV esc because I know one person who has had two of them fail, and several other folks who have had failures either in the air and on the ground. the latest was at a E flyin in Austin, TX a few months back and the controller was in a Electra, and It failed on power up, fortunately the plane was still on the ground. Since I bought my Spark (from John) and it had a CC110HV in it, but I hadn't selected the batteries I was going to use, I decided to stress test the ESC on the bench before using it in flight. (Our field doesn't offer many opportunities for successful dead sticks). I tested it with the Stumax on 12s, 25c (2 6s packs) and it seemed to work ok, but the controller got very very hot. (170 dg)
I let it cool and an hour later, I did some testing with a 10s 35c battery set. (2 4500 mah 5s packs).
I ran very little WOT, maybe only 5 seconds total, and no problem. Then I ran at 1/2 throttle for about 45 seconds to a minute. The amp reading at 1/2 throttle was only 45 amps. The controller crackled and smoked!

I don't know if I killed it or not with the earlier run,or with static electricity or if it just cannot do well at 1/2 throttle, or maybe it just sensed my fear!
The controller was once again very hot.

It may just need new caps, anyone want to make a bid on it as is?

I decided to get this: http://www.readyheli.com/Kontronik_J...jive120_hv.htm

I should have it in a few days.

It seems to be a great controller for this application, they state that it can handle 120 amps continuous with no external cooling, anyone else use it?

Richard
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Last edited by Richard Evans; Jan 19, 2010 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 04:32 PM
EDF Jet Jam 2015, May 28-31st
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
6,735 Posts
Richard the Jive should do well but I still prefer the Schulze 40.160 for EDF use:
It has a huge heat sink
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 04:47 PM
Neil Jarvis
Neil Guildford's Avatar
Surrey U.K.
Joined Sep 2004
2,041 Posts
Its all about cooling, that why I put my esc's in the duct. I'm still doing well with 4 Turnigy's (100A HV). My max setup being my JHH A-7 Corsair with a Stumax on 12S running at 97A.
Neil
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:03 PM
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Richard Evans's Avatar
USA, TX, Canyon Lake
Joined Jul 2006
342 Posts
Hi Neil

I would like to put the sink in the duct, but when I was using the CC110, the heat sink configuration would make it difficult to use that approach.

The Turnigy 100 HV lends itself to doing that fine (in fact I have three of those and thought about using one). However I want something that is overkill.

And besides, I too have the Stumax, and I was afraid I would compromise the performance by placing the CC110 in the intake duct side of the fan based on what I read here. With the CC controller, you can't just stick the heat sink in.
with your controller, I'm sure it is fine as long as it is sealed and the fins are lined up with the airflow and don't produce any turbulance. (Which I think you can do with your heat sinks)

I might do that with the Jive, I did order the optional heat sink for it, just don't know what it looks like yet, or if I can stick it into the duct and get a good seal.


Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
Its all about cooling, that why I put my esc's in the duct. I'm still doing well with 4 Turnigy's (100A HV). My max setup being my JHH A-7 Corsair with a Stumax on 12S running at 97A.
Neil
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Last edited by Richard Evans; Jan 19, 2010 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:13 PM
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Richard Evans's Avatar
USA, TX, Canyon Lake
Joined Jul 2006
342 Posts
Hi Robert
I'm sure that would have been a great choice too. I have a lot of respect for the Schulze stuff, I got my first Schulze future controller back in the mid (or late?) 1990's for my eco 8 heli, it still is working great!

I did get the optional heat sink for the Jive though and it is too late to change my mind.

Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini View Post
Richard the Jive should do well but I still prefer the Schulze 40.160 for EDF use:
It has a huge heat sink
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 06:17 PM
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stumax's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Aug 2002
4,387 Posts
Richard, what you can do is stick it to the duct wall with a couple of 6mm dia holes behind it. Then make up a tophat shaped piece of plastic to make a sort of cover to go over it. The idea is that when the fan's running on the ground it will draw air thru the holes, and around the esc. In flight it will be reversed, as the pressure should be higher in the duct. It's important with cooling that you direct air and tell it where to go, otherwise it will just go anywhere. you don't need a big blast of air to make a big difference, just some movement to take the heat away from the heatsink. BTW, I've smoked two HV110's in aircraft recently, one of which I had been using on the bench for testing for about two years with no cooling. Communications with Castle suggest that it may be a static electricity problem, although I'm not sure how, as the SM110-52 is non-conductive. Can anyone shed some light on this? HV110's seem to be a bit of a lottery, some people have great success with them, others have none. I decided to get a big Schulze 40.160 esc which I expect to last forever. The new HV ICE 160 esc looks good, I have one for testing, but for me it's too untried for a big EDF model which can be destroyed of the esc dies at the worst possible moment. Murphy's law states that it will, and my two dead models are proof.

Stu.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 10:34 PM
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Richard Evans's Avatar
USA, TX, Canyon Lake
Joined Jul 2006
342 Posts
thanks for the idea about cooling using the 6mm holes and cover.
I'm committed to the Kontronik and I will be getting it tomorrow so we'll see how it goes, i will use your idea for cooling. That CC 160 is robust I hear, but with heatsink is massive, and the wires are thick and stiff so i'd be worried about fitting it. BTW, thanks for creating this awsome fan.

Richard

Quote:
Originally Posted by stumax View Post
Richard, what you can do is stick it to the duct wall with a couple of 6mm dia holes behind it. Then make up a tophat shaped piece of plastic to make a sort of cover to go over it. The idea is that when the fan's running on the ground it will draw air thru the holes, and around the esc. In flight it will be reversed, as the pressure should be higher in the duct. It's important with cooling that you direct air and tell it where to go, otherwise it will just go anywhere. you don't need a big blast of air to make a big difference, just some movement to take the heat away from the heatsink. BTW, I've smoked two HV110's in aircraft recently, one of which I had been using on the bench for testing for about two years with no cooling. Communications with Castle suggest that it may be a static electricity problem, although I'm not sure how, as the SM110-52 is non-conductive. Can anyone shed some light on this? HV110's seem to be a bit of a lottery, some people have great success with them, others have none. I decided to get a big Schulze 40.160 esc which I expect to last forever. The new HV ICE 160 esc looks good, I have one for testing, but for me it's too untried for a big EDF model which can be destroyed of the esc dies at the worst possible moment. Murphy's law states that it will, and my two dead models are proof.

Stu.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 05:12 PM
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STEVEAIR2's Avatar
Dublin Ireland
Joined Aug 2005
865 Posts
Hi Stu
could you show a line diagram of what you mean regarding the cooling?
Cheers
Steve
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 09:38 PM
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Richard Evans's Avatar
USA, TX, Canyon Lake
Joined Jul 2006
342 Posts
Power Connector standard?

I've always used Anderson Powerpoles for power connections up until now, but for this higher current application I am using the 6mm connectors, (not sure what they are called). (male seems to be 6mm, female is 7mm)
is there a standard for which wire gets the male and which one gets the female?
For example when putting connectors on the battery, should the red + wire get the male, or the black - one. If there is no standard or more common way, I would probably put the maie on the red battery wire, but if there is a common way to do it, I would do it according to the common way!

got my Kontronik PowerJive 120 in today. it is pretty small and there is a metal plate on one side that you can attach a heat sink to. It will be easy to get cooling to it. The controller has a nice feature of automatically adjusting the motor timing to adapt to the timing the motor wants. Also, the user manual talks about a freewheeling capability, and partial load operation of which I'm not too sure what those mean. I think that it might mean you can use less half throttle without wasting lots of power and heating the ESC.
maybe someone can translate those terms for me.

It also supplies up to 15 amps BEC, even with up to 12s! I has with two BEC outputs, to allow for a second current path. (although the recommendation is to still have a 4 cell receiver pack to as well to provide redundancy which makes perfect sense). To me, this nearly fool-proofs receiver power failures.

Richard
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Last edited by Richard Evans; Jan 22, 2010 at 09:43 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 09:09 AM
Xtreme Power Systems
Lake Havasu, AZ
Joined Jun 2005
15,938 Posts
Stu, we have lost numerous HV110's to static. We finally figured it out after months worth of head scratching (and resetting of chargers and transmitters - just by touching them).
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 10:19 AM
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Eddie P's Avatar
United States, NV, Reno
Joined Mar 2000
7,608 Posts
So Jim have you changed anything in the way you set up the model that reduces the chance of blowing a controller just from static electricity? I've never had an issue before with this. What was leading to it?
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 02:57 PM
Xtreme Power Systems
Lake Havasu, AZ
Joined Jun 2005
15,938 Posts
The problem is that we live in Arizona, land of low humidity (3% right now in our office building - even with all the rain outside). Scoot your feet across the carpet and touch the controller virtually anywhere and you see an arc - and the controller either has lost its EEPROM settings, or no longer functions. The solution is to touching something else (like the motor) first to ground yourself.
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 03:54 PM
Registered User
St. Mary, Maryland, United States
Joined Dec 1996
8,554 Posts
We used to have that problem 25 years ago

You'd put 5 airplanes away for the winter and when you pulled them out is the Spring 3 ESC's wouldn't work. Spring was heavy ESC repair time for Joe Utasi!
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 06:24 PM
Watt me worry?
Madmax1965's Avatar
Florida
Joined Mar 2006
4,145 Posts
You guys are putting us on right? I haven't had problems such as you are saying....then again I live in the deep south....plenty of humidity
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