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Old Sep 29, 2007, 09:57 PM
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bebopgolf's Avatar
Columbus, Ohio
Joined Feb 2007
166 Posts
I started with electrics ....Slow stick, and learned 3d on a slofly foamie and have had alot of fun with the electrics but after waiting and waiting and waiting some more for a calm not so windy day some guy at the flying field was ringing out a twist 40 and i got a glow plane and started to really enjoy tinkering with my old 40 fsr os. bottom line is for some of us it is fun to fly glow. If you don't like to fly glow, thats cool...don't. meanwhile we are putting a magnum 4 stroke 31 in the e-flight edge
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Old Oct 01, 2007, 10:04 PM
Flying is FUN
Joined Apr 2005
153 Posts
electric to glow .10-.25

OH yes me too i started with a slow stick then a 1/2a.049 glow then 10s 15s 20s 40s 52s 90s 120s now back to small engines
now when they come back in stock iam ordering the UAV RQ-1 Predator 63"
http://www.nitroplanes.com/4eluavrqprra.html
and adding my new Thunder Tiger GP 07 ABC w/Muffler in the back will be a task fuel lines will be long, tank will have to be put in the fuse or mod the rear for a small round 1oz tank but will be fun trying lol
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Last edited by layback2; Oct 01, 2007 at 10:11 PM. Reason: editing
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Old Oct 04, 2007, 06:16 PM
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tpilot3d's Avatar
Joined Oct 2007
2 Posts
The April 2006 edition to Fly RC magazine had an entire article dedicated to 1/2 A engines and included a rough guideline as to what size engine would be appropriate for an electric to glow conversion. A .020 for models with an RTF weight of about 8oz, .049-.061 for 16-18oz, and .074-.09 fore 24-26oz. I have recently converted a 30" P-51 using these guidelines and it has turned out great! Anyway. I would like to be posted on any further developments in this department.
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Old Oct 05, 2007, 01:17 AM
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Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
The electric vehicle fad

Quote:
Originally Posted by adaptabl
Why would you downgrade to glow? Glow may still have an advantage in larger size models for now. In smaller sized models electric is much better.
My main reason was that the motor shorted in the third crash, frying the speed control. A Babe Bee was the nearest power I had available.

In general, the Cox reedies are almost crash proof, including the tanks, while electric motors and LiPos are not. Lipos need protection, while reedies make fine crash bumpers.
I suppose motors are lighter per power, but fuel has more energy per weight (diesel if you want more than glow offers). So fuel will always have the advantage for very long flights.
Next is that lipos and brushless motor controlers are hard to see (though some electric motors are beautifully visible, if one understands fields). Since one of the main purposes of model airplanes is science education, that gives a huge advantage to the engines, that are easy to take apart, dozen part, simplifications of automobile engines. My auto mechanic loved it when I showed him one today, and my brother (racing) mechanic used do drag race 049 cars with nitro percent in to 90s.
Next (though this is far fetched, it is the way people think nowdays) is that, for RC and free flight, batteries in general and lipos in particular are potential fire hazards. Glow engines on the other hand don't have exhaust hot enough to ignite anything (it would ignite the intake before it was compressed), and also even if they did would not light anything because they stop when they crash. I have tried dripping fuel on the exhaust ports, and it does not ignite. With a very rich mixture, I can put my fingers on the cylinder and cylinder head, while it slowly runs. The fuel, because it is fuel so very little is needed, is enclosed in a thick metal tank, and alcohol is very little fire hazard anyway.
Then cost.
Then charging time.
And durability. I am flying the same 049s I bought used in the 70s.
I admit that the electrics do have the advantage that 010s are expensive now, but a Pee Wee is still under an ounce and the mixture controls the power output very nicely.
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Old Oct 26, 2007, 08:22 AM
Flying is FUN
Joined Apr 2005
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Very well stated
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Old Oct 26, 2007, 05:36 PM
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Joined Apr 2007
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Humm ...-downgrade to glow...??..I'm confused.Or maybe frustrated with electric as I've yet to see an electric set up that comes close to the economy of a simple .15 glow... esc, motor , lipo battery...$250 to $350...or more, OS LA 15,$ 80 bucks and 3 bucks for a glow plug. Most glow setups in this size have been comparable in weight or lighter.Now the 0.49 stuff, it takes 350 dollars worth of electrics to do what a simple .049 cox can do. The only real advantage the electric has is you can restart the engine, which is desireable at times. So each has it's place. Personally,I've spent a few $1000 on building and learning the electric side, I like the glow stuff for real power and speed.
I'm keeping all my glow and gas stuff for a long time to come. By the way, would a 50cc twin gasser be a "Down Grade" for my 1/3 scale Piper Cub.....I really doubt IT.
Don
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Old Nov 02, 2007, 06:51 PM
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United States, WI, Plover
Joined Feb 2004
31 Posts
Electric to Glow

For a trainer, I have the EP Superstar from Hobbico. It fly's very well with a OS 15. It has trainer type performance, just like the 40 size version but smaller. The OS takes the place of a 600 can motor, speed control and batteries. It saves a lot of weight, is much faster and more acrobatic. I considered a brushless set up but to much $.

Harvard
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Old Nov 06, 2007, 05:34 AM
Flying is FUN
Joined Apr 2005
153 Posts
You Know i have tryed electrics when i orderd the motor&esc and i received it by mail man it was heavy then i rememberd oh the battery just one battery on some weigh as much as my plane ready to fly and 4 minutes later have to land and recharge boring
i guess iam just old fashion love the old cox motors and very small balsa planes
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Old Nov 09, 2007, 09:54 PM
grant me the serenity....
avocado flyer's Avatar
philly
Joined Feb 2007
227 Posts
Keep them comming guys. I started in elec. also and refused to go any larger than 3s 2100 mah batteries, which led me to glow and I love it. I have not had any of the problems with glow that I had previously heard horror stories about and I'm looking forward to buying up some cheap elec. ARFs ( mini edge 540, GWS spitfire) and going glow with them. I have heard people complain about the mess with glows and I found the solution. A roll of paper towels and a bottle of windex in my trunk and some day I might actually use them to clean my windows

Thanks for the ideas guys, keep them comming and any pictures of your elec./foamie conversions would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 12:29 AM
Where's the lift?
dgliderguy's Avatar
United States, WA, Snohomish
Joined Mar 2001
2,865 Posts
So many choices these days!

I, for one, fly both electric and glow, and I prefer glow for the noise and the exhaust trail and and the putt-putt of the idling engine on a long final approach. To each his own, but my choice is electric for tiny parky stuff and for thermallable sailplanes, and glow for scale models.

We are blessed with a wide selection of scale ARF electrics these days, most of which are easily converted to glow with only minor mods. Many of these are wonderfully made, attractive, and fly just as well on glow as electric, with equivalent all-up weights.

Here is a list of the projects I have converted or plan to convert from electric to glow:

Electrifly SE-5A with OS10FP
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579680

Mega Cessna O1-E Bird Dog for AP09 Hornet
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/cessna.htm

Jamara Fournier RF-4D for Baby Bee 049

Cermark Porterfield Collegiate, for OS15FP

Polks Fokker Dr1, for Thunder Tiger GP15

Maxford Gee Bee Y, for OS15FP
http://www.greenmodelusa.com/GBY_40.html
(I have the red one)

E-Flite AT-6 Texan, for GMS25

E-Flite Taylorcraft, for OS10FP

and I'm considering the new E-flite Piper Pawnee, for my Magnum 30 four-stroke.

So many toys, so little time!

Don.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 06:52 AM
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Ken Park's Avatar
Ottawa Canada
Joined Feb 2004
761 Posts
A Good design should include both Electric or glow

I always design my models with the firewall in the correct location and thick enough to handle glow of equal size as the electrics.

The best seller I have is the SHARK-E or if you go glow SHARK-G set up for .15 size 2 stroke - Eflite does it best to match glow to electric with the power 15 brushless.

http://www.mraerodesign.com

This model is a real hit with SMALL in Canada event I run each year.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/k.d.park/SM07.html
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 02:29 PM
Watching the Sky
gmyers143's Avatar
Maumee, Ohio
Joined Mar 2006
50 Posts
electric or glow

I just read the posts here and wanted to include my opinions. First I have been in the hobby just under 3 years. I started with electric and remained faithful to them. But I made the jump and bought my first glow a Hanger 9 PTS Rapter. Ya, I know it is not the best performer. But now I intend to have more glow planes in my hanger, but I will not give up on the Electrics. They are nice for a quick flight in a small park when I do not want to go to the field. As for flight times, I get around 15 to 20 minutes on my electric Super Sportster using an E-flite power 15 with a 4000 mha lipo battery. I don't think glow would give me much more flying time.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 03:51 PM
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Wayne V's Avatar
London, Ontario, Canada
Joined Jan 2006
1,491 Posts
I guess the nice thing about glow is to get longer flight times it only costs about $1.00 more ( larger tank ), try that with electric.
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Old Nov 28, 2007, 04:15 PM
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Joined Nov 2005
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glow all the way 1/2A
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Old Nov 28, 2007, 11:55 PM
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Joined May 2007
58 Posts
I am baffled by the enthusiasm for electrics as the bark and stink of little engines is at least half the fun. I prefer the voodoo of engine tinkering to contemplating all that messing with batteries and speed controllers. Just back to flying after a 5 year layoff. Getting my hand in with Clancy "YardBee", with PAW .06 diesel power: 20 - 25 minutes on 1oz tank
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