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Old Sep 11, 2007, 05:59 PM
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Well, Charely38, I hadn't thought about your group. So, we appear to have folks who fix them no matter what, folks who buy them and don't "fix" them (make an alteration, which, so far, it appears is not sanctioned by GP), folks who buy them and fix them, folks who seek a refund from somewhere, and folks who buy something else so they don't have to "fix" them.

I'm going to join the group of "buy something else that does not have to be fixed."

Has anyone asked GP if this home-brewed "fix" is an "alteration" outside the warranty terms?

What about you, Kiwi since you seem tight with the guy in China and the Guru?

If a GP technical bulletin comes out that adopts this "fix" as the "fix," then I'd say there is no "alteration" and everyone goes home happy, right?
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 06:45 PM
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I'll ask Bing Sheng for his opinion on the warranty issue, if you like. He seems receptive to suggestions and is not averse to criticism.
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 06:50 PM
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Please ask him (1) if one uses the Kiwi "fix," can (2) a warranty claim be made if (3) the "fix" is determined to be the "cause" of "damage" and (4) if a claim can be made even if the alternation-fix is made and such is not the "cause" of damage. It won't affect my decision but it may others.
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
What collet? There isn't enough shaft sticking out to use the collet and the prop adapter. The adapter won't hit the mount plate, it will go back all the way to the motor housing. It's apparent that you're ignorant of how the motor mounts in the GP WWI warbirds.
Unless you have done something unusual on this modification, there ought to be sufficient shaft to work with. In fact, there is the same length of shaft either way. Photos attached.

I'd be interested in seeing photos of your motor. Maybe we can get this straightened out?
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Please ask him (1) if one uses the Kiwi "fix," can (2) a warranty claim be made
I wouldn't obsess over a warranty claim on a $40 motor. That's chump change.

This hobby is also called aeromodelling. Over our careers we do all manner of unauthorized things to the aeroplanes we build, sometimes for the better, sometimes not. Some tinker, some bARF, we all fly.

As Kiwi's evaluation showed, the motors are adequate and a good value. Some have a problem with the loose shaft, whick Electrifly is addressing.

Diogenes, lawyer looking for an honest man?

--Bill
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 08:04 PM
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Odd, the Alabama board of licensure has no record of ....

Holding the lantern high, the search shall continue....
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley38
What collet? There isn't enough shaft sticking out to use the collet and the prop adapter. The adapter won't hit the mount plate, it will go back all the way to the motor housing. It's apparent that you're ignorant of how the motor mounts in the GP WWI warbirds.

In any event, no matter how much you try to help salvage the Rimfire reputation, it's obvious that this motor has flaws. No one is going to buy one of these if they know about it. I certainly wouldn't; I just decided to try the fix rather than return the motor to Tower for a refund.

Enough,

CR


Sorry, I meant collet adapter. I see from Bill Harris's photos the way it mounts - I didn't realize one used the tri-mount, I thought one simply attached the motor behind a ply firewall. But if you look at Bill Harris's third photo (in Post #34)... it seems if you nose-in, the shaft might be pushed back a few mm until the back of the " collet prop adapter" hits the front of the motor (the bearing housing). Not ideal perhaps but I still can't see how the entire shaft (and the bell with it) can, as you implied, be driven right through the motor and out the back of it.
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 09:03 PM
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I don't wanna hijack the thread but since it's already off, and kind of been discussed, I'll ask.

These motors Are about $40 at the LHS and the Axis are more online(?)
How are these better than say the Suppos which so far look promising according to Dr Kiwis tests?

I can't see paying more for motor if a cheaper one will perform similar with a similar amp draw.
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 09:51 PM
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Well, Misery loves company!
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Old Sep 11, 2007, 09:58 PM
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One minor complaint is the quality of the shaft circlips – they appear to be made from very cheap steel, with virtually none of the vital “spring” they need to perform their task. I used high-quality circlip pliers to expand and remove these clips, but both were deformed during the operation – the fact that I was able to reshape them with just a pair of surgical forceps indicates the absence of “spring steel”.

I'll ask Bing Sheng for his opinion on the warranty issue, if you like. He seems receptive to suggestions and is not averse to criticism.

Idea:

If Bing is looking for a possible solution, how about 2 good quality circlips. One at each side of the shaft? Seems this may work for "push or pull" mounting. Yes, one more groove and one more clip..... am I missing something with this idea?

Dave
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Old Sep 12, 2007, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes2you
Odd, the Alabama board of licensure has no record of ....

Holding the lantern high, the search shall continue....
After a week of peace and quiet, I see Dave Matison is back with us...

<sigh>

--Bill
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Old Sep 12, 2007, 04:58 AM
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I've never seen so much balancing glue on such a small motor.
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Old Sep 12, 2007, 05:12 AM
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Kiwi, not a problem and not a potential problem. Remember the amount of force necessary to remove the bell from the stator against the magnetic pull. If you have a Rimfire with that modification, please measure the amount of force required to move the bell and bottom out the collet adapter. If you nose-in that hard, you'll have more problems than with the bell moving back a few millimeters. And even if it does displace backwards, the bell and shaft are constrained by the ball bearings and held forward by the magnets.

Like you, I assume that the motor is attached directly to the motor mount-firewall without the three-arm adapter.

--Bill
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Old Sep 12, 2007, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Hand
I've never seen so much balancing glue on such a small motor.
What does this mean to you as a retailer?

Why does it matter?
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Old Sep 12, 2007, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveairway

Idea:

If Bing is looking for a possible solution, how about 2 good quality circlips. One at each side of the shaft? Seems this may work for "push or pull" mounting. Yes, one more groove and one more clip..... am I missing something with this idea?

Dave
Yes, Dave that would work. Ideally they would need to make the shaft a few mm longer. For this description, lets consider the built in prop saver as the "front" of the motor. In its stock configuration there is a circlip in its groove adjacent to what we would call the "rear" bearing in the threaded mounting "face" of the motor. This should prevent the shaft and bell from flying forward when a prop on the prop saver is generating forward thrust - but if the prop saver screws are not tight then there is nothing to prevent the bell, the propsaver and the prop from collectively parting company with the shaft!

If the shaft were a little longer and stuck out of the propsaver a few mm - and had a groove and a circlip on its forward end - then the bell and prop saver and prop could not slide off the shaft and move forward. The circlip behind the rear bearing would prevent the united shaft/bell/propsaver/prop from flying out the front. In exactly the same way, if the motor were used in reverse operation (prop saver now at the rear) the circlip, now behind the prop saver, would again prevent any separation of shaft or bell from the motor.

GP/Electrifly/Rimfire .... what do you think?
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