Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Sep 18, 2007, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeajr
Nodirbek,

1) if this is an RTF, then the only way the BEC can be a problem is if you changed the battery or the BEC is defective.

The battery is stock lipo pack

2) How did you range check the radio? Did you do it with the antenna down? What procedure do they provide in the manual?

Both. The manual is quite poor, and does not have a long troubleshooting section.

3) You may have a flat spot on the throttle. I have that on some of my very heavily used Aerobird radios. You hit a spot where the throttle cuts out. it is a very very tiny window but it is there.

The radio is new as well, plus, if the issue was the cut outs on the throttle, it should still have been okay when you move the stick out of that spot.

4) you could have a bad contact on the throttle. If you lean on it or push on it, the motor could cut out.

Again I say, if this is a new plane, take it back or call customer service. You know, if hte throttle cuts out and CAUSES the crash, it should be covered under warranty.

Anyway, that is about the best I can offer.
.
Thanks a lot, I will definately try it out tomorrow, I just want to see if it is consistent enough under controlled environment then I will call the shop.

regards,
n
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Old Sep 19, 2007, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by realtimerecon
CHRIS F ...Thanks MUCH this is a great help!...R.T.R.
No worries R.T.R
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Old Sep 20, 2007, 12:13 PM
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Help...I have a H.Zone Super Cub R.T.F.that i love flying, and i want to convert it to brushless.I use this plane for A.P.,so its always hauling xtra wt.I have a E-flite power 10 and matching E- flite 40A E.S.C. that i want to put in the S.C.What do you think ? and what other components Tx.Rx.servos etc. would you recommend ....Thanks much...R.T.R.
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Old Sep 22, 2007, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realtimerecon
Help...I have a H.Zone Super Cub R.T.F.that i love flying, and i want to convert it to brushless.I use this plane for A.P.,so its always hauling xtra wt.I have a E-flite power 10 and matching E- flite 40A E.S.C. that i want to put in the S.C.What do you think ? and what other components Tx.Rx.servos etc. would you recommend ....Thanks much...R.T.R.
Hi R.T.R.

To be honest I'm not familiar with the Hobby Zone Super Cub (although I have heard lots about it) or the E-flite motors but that shouldn't matter. If the E-flite motor weighs about the same as the brushed motor in the Cub, you can swap the motors without worrying about the centre of gravity. I see the E-flite 10 weighs 122g (4.3 oz) so take out the brushed motor and weigh it. Kitchen scales are good for this. I don't know what batteries you are using, but you might have to move them around to maintain the centre of gravity. If you're not sure where the CG is, balance the Cub (with batteries in) with your finger tips under the wings near the fuselage and mark the balance points with a pen. This is where the CG should be when you have changed over the components. A 3-cell lipo would work well with your motor (just make sure you check the weight and dimensions so it fits and you can maintain your CG), and use a wattmeter to help choose a prop. The important specs for the E-flite 10 motor are:

Prop Range: 10x5 - 12x6
Cells: 6-10 Ni-Mh/Ni-Cd or 2-3S Li-Po
Continuous Current: 30A

Try some different props starting with a 10X5 and work up until you are using about 30 Amps. When you have selected your prop, it will "unload" a bit and use fewer Amps when flying.

I don't know what transmitter you are using now, but if you can plug your new esc into the existing receiver you should be ok. If your servos are still working I would stick with them until they break down and replace them with something the same size. There are plenty of small cheap ones available. I shop at Hobby City allot. Their range and prices are very good, and it is worth just browsing around checking dimensions and specs of different products just to get the hang of choosing replacement parts. You can of course do this at any online store with a good range. If you want to upgrade your radio and you are sure you will be into this hobby for a while, I think the Hitec Optic 6 is great value for a second radio. It has some impressive features for the price. If you are interested in good cheap receivers, the Corona series II Rx's are great for park flyers. They are soon releasing cheap synthesised units too.

I hope I have been of some help. Your E-flite stuff will work very well I'm sure, just remember the CG!

Good luck.
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Old Sep 22, 2007, 06:37 AM
Real Time Recon
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Chris F...Thanks much this info helps , i would like to get rid of tx. & rx. while i'm at it & stock servos, as some of the cameras cost as much as the S.C. rtf system itself.This plane is real good for A.P. and gets into spots my 80" hanger 9 j-3 cub cant...thanks again...R.T.R.
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Old Sep 22, 2007, 05:11 PM
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R.T.R.

I didn't realise what you meant last night by A.P. If you want good flight components to protect your camera gear the sky is the limit when it comes to spending money. I suspect the S.C. is rudder and elevator only? If so get some good Hitec metal or carbonite geared servos like the HS81MG or HS56HB. There are many more that would be as good or better but I have been happy with these so far. I'm sure you will get lots of opinions if you post this question separately. If you get a new radio you should get a Rx with it. I use a variety of Rx's, but the more expensive (and potentially dangerous) the model the more expensive the Rx and servos get just for piece of mind. If you are using more than two servos with a 3S lipo (or equivalent Nickel cells) use a ubec or Rx battery pack.

It looks like you're ready to start spending some money .
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Old Sep 24, 2007, 08:54 PM
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im still a little confused. I have a gws 350 ratio 6.60:1 . I want to use a smaller prop for a plane so could i change the gear box to type A or B to use a prop 5.5 x 4.5. My battery is a 7.4v 800mah 2 cell. And if i changed the gear box / prop would it change the amount of amps the motor would take? The battery's C rating in 10C and my esc can handle 8 amps continuous.

Plus im confused on the battery and volts. So my battery capacity is 800 mah and if the volts would change then what would happen?

Im going to do some more research but i ask questions along the way
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Old Sep 24, 2007, 09:23 PM
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kzpl14,

Let me see if I can take a crack at your questions.

First, GWS documents their motors extremely well. This link takes you to the page that shows the 350 motors:
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product...em/eps350c.htm

1) Can you change the gearbox - yes, though it is probably just easier to buy a 350 with the gearbox you want.

The 350 with the 2.8:1 - They suggest a 6X3 prop
They tested it with a 9.6V battery which pulled 5.9 amps

So, if the 5.5 size prop is your priority and the 7.4V battery is the one you want to use, then you probably want to go direct drive. GWS calls that the 300 package. Let's look at the charts:
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product...em/edp300h.htm

A 5X4.3 on 2 cell lipo will pull about 7.6 amps or about 54 watts.

Looking at the charts you can see the effect of changing the battey or prop.

Does this answer your questions?
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Old Sep 24, 2007, 09:41 PM
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kinda yes but what did you do to figure out the amp draw for my battery. And what changes like if you have a 7.4v 1800 mah and then a 11.1v 1200 mah how will that effect the motor? Is the direct drive just the motor by itself with no gearbox? wont it burn up?
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Old Sep 25, 2007, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kzpl14
kinda yes but what did you do to figure out the amp draw for my battery. And what changes like if you have a 7.4v 1800 mah and then a 11.1v 1200 mah how will that effect the motor? Is the direct drive just the motor by itself with no gearbox? wont it burn up?
The amp draw is a function of the motor, the prop on the motor and the voltage applied to the motor. In your case, I just read it off the GWS charts at the links I posted.

Apparently you did NOT look at the GWS charts or you would have been able to answer the question about 7.4V vs 11.1V. I suggest you look at them.

The capacity of the battery pack has no relationship to the amp draw of the motor. Just as the size of the gas tank in your car has no relationship to the power of the engine. However the capacity of the battery does relate to the ability of the battery to deliver what the motor wants and, of course, how long the battery will last.

If you do not understand this, go back to the second page of the thread and read my post on sizing power systems. It is all covered there.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=23

No, a direct drive motor will not burn up if you use an appropriate voltage battery pack and a properly sized prop. Direct drive is the way most planes are operated. All glow planes, that I have seen, are direct drive. Lots of RTF and ARF electric planes come as direct drive set-ups. And lots of after market motors are made to be used direct drive.

Just look at the GWS charts I provided for direct drive motors. That is why I have you links. Go study those charts till they make sense to you.

If you do not understand this, go back and read my post on sizing power systems. Direct drive vs. gearbox is discussed there.
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Old Sep 25, 2007, 07:52 AM
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yes i did look at the chart and ill go look at it again
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Old Sep 25, 2007, 08:08 AM
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how can you attach the prop to the motor shaft since it so short ?
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Old Sep 25, 2007, 08:42 AM
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you use a prop adapter that is either supplied with the motor, the prop or is purchased separately. I believe the GWS packages come with the prop adapter.

ITEM : GW/EDP-300A1

MOTOR : EM300

WEIGHT : 49g (1.73 oz)

W/EM300 MOTOR , EP4530 PROPELLER *1

Factory standard product : GW/EDP300A1(EP4530) Spec of other propellers are reference for optional purchase.

Comes with a sheet that reflects the chart on this page:
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product...tem/edp300.htm

HOW TO READ THE GWS CHARTS

You look down the left side of the chart. Those are prop sizes. A 4530 is a 4.5" prop with a 3 inch pitch. Look over one column and see the battery voltages they tested it with and the amps that the combo draws.

Lines in red mean that that voltage/amp/prop combo will damage the motor.


HOW TO APPLY THE WATTS COLUMN

The power column, W = watts of input power. That is what you use to figure watts/pound using the full weight of the plane in ready to fly configuration.

EP4530, 7.2V 10.1A and 72.72 watts input power.

In a 1 pound plane with this motor and this combo, you would have 72.72 watts per pound.


BRUSHED VS BRUSHLESS INPUT WATTS

The efficency numbers they give are NOT the efficency that we talk about when we discuss brushed vs brushless efficency. That is entierely different.

As a rough rule, brushed motors are about 50% efficent. Brushless about 80% efficent.

So a 72 watt brushed motor delivers about 36 watts to the prop and wastes 36 watts as heat.

72 Brushed watts, as I call them, will fly the plane but with mild performance.

A 72 watt brushless motor delivers about 57 watts to the prop and waists about 15 watts as heat.

THAT'S WHY BRUSHLESS MOTORS ARE WORTH THEIR HIGHER PRICE

So the brushelss motor will give you better performance for the same amount of power used.

72 brushless watts, as I call them, will deliver a lot more performance, greater speed, better climbs, etc. Or it will deliver the same performance using a lower throttle setting, thus the battery pack will last longer.

Hope that makes sense.
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Old Nov 02, 2007, 07:04 PM
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DELETE ,moved thread
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Old Nov 02, 2007, 07:25 PM
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Try asking at the power systems forum http://www.rcgroups.com/power-systems-13/ if you don't get any help here. I think you will need to give a bit more information to get the answers you want.
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